1983 FIAT UNO weight

fitting, as during removal. Note that the
compression rings are brittle, and will snap if
expanded too far.
206If new pistons are to be fitted, they must
be selected from the grades available, after
measuring the cylinder bores. Normally, the
appropriate oversize pistons are supplied by
the dealer when the block is rebored.
207Whenever new piston rings are being
installed, the glaze on the original cylinder
bores should be removed using either
abrasive paper or a glaze-removing tool in an
electric drill. If abrasive paper is used, use
strokes at 60º to the bore centre-line, to
create a cross-hatching effect.
Engine/transmission
mountings - renewalÁ
208The engine/gearbox assembly is
suspended in the engine compartment on
three mountings, two of which are attached to
the gearbox, and one to the engine.
Right-hand mounting
209Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
210Suitable lifting tackle must now be
attached to the engine in order to support it as
the engine mounting is removed. No lifting
brackets are provided, so care must be taken
when deciding on an engine lifting point. In the
workshop, a right-angled bracket was made up
by bending a suitable piece of steel plate. The
bracket was then bolted to the engine using the
rear right-hand camshaft housing securing bolt
with suitable packing washers.
211Attach the lifting tackle to the bracket on
the engine and just take the weight of the
assembly.
212Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
engine mounting bracket from the cylinder
block, and unbolt the mounting from the
body, then withdraw the bracket/mounting
assembly.
213Unscrew the nut and through-bolt,
counter holding the bolt with a second
spanner or socket, and separate the mounting
from the bracket.
214Fit the new mounting to the bracket, and
tighten the nut to the specified torque, while
counterholding the through-bolt using a
suitable spanner or socket.
215Refit the mounting bracket to the cylinder
block, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
216Refit the mounting to the body and
tighten the securing bolts to the specified
torque.
217Disconnect the lifting tackle from the
engine, and remove the engine lifting bracket.
218Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Left-hand mountings
219Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
220Suitable lifting tackle must now be
attached to the gearbox lifting bracket inorder to support the weight of the assembly
as the mounting is removed.
221Attach the lifting tackle to the bracket on
the gearbox, and just take the weight of the
assembly.
222Working under the vehicle, unbolt the
mounting bracket from the gearbox, and
unbolt the mounting from the body, then
withdraw the bracket/mounting assembly.
223Proceed as described in paragraphs 213
and 214.
224Refit the mounting bracket to the
gearbox, and tighten the securing bolts to the
specified torque.
225Refit the mounting to the body and
tighten the mounting bolts to the specified
torque.
226Disconnect the lifting tackle from the
engine.
227Lower the vehicle to the ground.
PART C: ENGINE REMOVAL
AND DISMANTLING
Method of removal - general
1The engine (complete with transmission) is
disconnected and lowered downwards
through the engine compartment, then
withdrawn from the front underside of the car.
1372 cc engine/
transmission - removal
and separation
#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
2Depressurize the fuel system as described
in Section 9 of this Chapter.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Mark the position of the hinges on the
underside of the bonnet, then with the aid of
an assistant, unscrew the hinge bolts and lift
the bonnet clear of the car. Store the bonnet
in a safe area.
5Drain the engine coolant.
6Drain the engine and transmission oils.
7Disconnect and remove the air filter.
8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
engine, including the hose to the inlet
manifold.
9Detach the ignition coil (HT) lead from the
distributor.10Compress the retaining clip and detach
the engine idle speed actuator lead from the
SPi unit (photo).
11Disconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe
from its connector on the inlet manifold.
12Disconnect the throttle cable from the SPi
unit.
13Disconnect the engine speed sensor lead.
14Release and detach the reversing light
lead from the switch on the transmission
(photo).
15Before disconnecting the hydraulic hose
from the clutch slave cylinder, remove the
filler cap from the reservoir and place a piece
of polythene sheet over the filler neck, then
refit the cap; this will help prevent excess fluid
loss. Once disconnected, plug the hose and
its cylinder connection to prevent the ingress
of dirt into the hydraulic system.
16Disconnect the wiring connector from the
alternator.
17Position a clean rag under the fuel supply
and return hose connections to the SPi unit,
then slowly unscrew the hose clips to release
the system pressure; catch fuel leakage in the
rag and dispose of it safely. Detach the hoses
and plug them to prevent ingress of dirt and
any further fuel leakage. Position the hoses
out of the way.
18Detach the wiring connector from the
engine coolant temperature sender unit
(photo).
19Release the retaining clip and detach the
wiring connector from the throttle position
switch. Also detach the associated earth
leads from the cylinder head.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•49
7C.14 Reversing light switch and lead7C.18 Engine coolant temperature sender
and wiring connector
7C.10 Engine idle speed actuator/SPi unit
lead connection (arrowed)
13

20Release the retaining clip and detach the
wiring connector from the fuel injector
connection (photo).
21Loosen off the front wheel bolts each
side, then raise and support the car at the
front end on axle stands. When raised,
support at a height which will allow the engine
and transmission to be withdrawn from the
underside when fully disconnected. Ensure
that the vehicle is securely supported before
working underneath it.
22Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the
front roadwheels.
23Release the retaining clips and remove
the underwing shield from the right- and
left-hand front wheel arch.24Relieve the staking, then unscrew and
remove the front hub nut using a socket and
suitable extension. Repeat the procedure on
the opposite front hub.
25Unscrew the retaining nut and disconnect
the tie-rod to steering arm balljoint using a
suitable balljoint separator tool. Repeat the
procedure on the other side.
26Note the direction of fitting, then unscrew
and remove the hub-to-strut retaining bolts
and nuts on each side.
27Unscrew and remove the anti-roll bar-
to-track control arm retaining nuts each side.
28Unscrew and remove the front brake
caliper hydraulic pipe support bracket bolt
each side.29Pull the wheel hub outwards and detach
the driveshaft from it, noting that there may be
a small amount of oil spillage as it is
withdrawn. Repeat the procedure on the
opposite side.
30Disconnect the wiring connector from the
engine oil level sensor lead.
31Unscrew the retaining nuts to detach and
remove the exhaust pipe front section or
alternatively, remove the system complete.
32Unscrew the knurled retaining nut and
detach the speedometer cable from the
transmission (photo).
33Unscrew the retaining nut and detach the
earth strap from the transmission (photo).
34Extract the split pin and detach the gear
selector rod from the transmission pin.
Disconnect the gear engagement and selector
levers from the balljoints.
35The weight of the engine will now need to
be supported from above. Connect a suitable
lift hoist and sling to the engine. When
securely connected, take the weight of the
engine/transmission unit so that the tension is
relieved from the mountings.
36Unscrew and remove the engine and
transmission support mounting bolts at the
points indicated (photos).
37The engine/transmission unit should now
be ready for removal from the vehicle. Check
that all of the associated connections and
13•50 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.22 The underwing
shield retaining clips (arrowed)
on the 1372 cc ie and Turbo ie
engines (Sec 7C)Fig. 13.25 Gear engagement
and selector lever balljoints
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7C)Fig. 13.23 Engine oil level
sensor wiring connector
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7C)Fig. 13.24 Disconnect the gear
selector rod at the connection
indicated on the 1372 cc ie and
Turbo ie engines (Sec 7C)
7C.33 Disconnect the transmission earth
strap7C.32 Disconnecting the speedometer
drive cable from the transmission7C.20 Fuel injector wiring connection
7C.36B Transmission rear mounting7C.36A Engine right-hand mounting

fittings are disconnected from the engine and
transmission and positioned out of the way.
Enlist the aid of an assistant to help steady
and guide the power unit down through the
engine compartment as it is removed, If
available, position a suitable engine trolley or
crawler board under the engine/transmission
so that when lowered, the power unit can be
withdrawn from the front end of the vehicle
and moved to the area where it is to be
cleaned and dismantled.
38Carefully lower the engine and
transmission unit, ensuring that no fittings
become snagged. Detach the hoist and
withdraw the power unit from under the
vehicle.
39To separate the engine from the
transmission, unbolt and remove the starter
motor, then unscrew the retaining bolts and
withdraw the transmission from the engine. As
it is withdrawn, do not allow the weight of the
engine or transmission to be taken by the
input shaft.
40To remove the clutch unit, refer to
Chapter 5 for details.
1372 cc Turbo ie
engine/transmission -
removal and separation
#
41The engine and transmission removal and
refitting details for Turbo-engined models are
similar to those described for the non-Turbo
models in the previous sub-Section, but the
following differences should be noted.
42To provide access for the disconnection
of the turbo and related components, first
remove the inlet manifold. Removal of the inlet
manifold and the turbocharger is described in
Section 9 of this Chapter.
43The ignition distributor on the Turbo
engine is driven from the auxiliary shaft and is
mounted at the front of the engine, towards
the timing cover end.
44The right-hand driveshaft has a steady
bearing and this will need to be unbolted and
detached.
Engine dismantling - general
45Refer to Chapter 1, Section 14 for details.
Auxiliary shaft - removal,
inspection and refitting #
46Remove the engine and transmission from
the vehicle as described previously in this
Section part.
47Drain the engine oil and remove the sump
as described in Part B of this Section.
48Remove the oil pump as described in Part
B of this Section.
49Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary
shaft sprocket as described in Part B of this
Section.
50Unscrew the three retaining bolts and
remove the auxiliary shaft cover. Remove the
gasket.
51Withdraw the auxiliary shaft from the
cylinder block.
52Examine the shaft and its bearing bushes
in the cylinder block for signs of excessive
wear and/or damage and renew it if
necessary. Bush renewal is described in
paragraph 79 in this Section.
53The cover gasket and the oil seal should
always be renewed whenever the cover is
removed. To renew the seal, support the
cover on blocks of wood and drive out the old
seal using a suitable drift inserted in the
cut-out in the back of the cover. Clean the
seal location in the housing. Drive the new
seal into place using a suitable metal tube or
socket (photo). The sealing lip must face
towards the cylinder block. Smear the sealing
lips with clean engine oil before installation.
54Commence refitting by lubricating theauxiliary shaft journals with clean engine oil,
then insert the shaft into the cylinder block
(photo).
55Refit the auxiliary shaft cover, using a new
gasket, and tighten the securing bolts
(photos).
56Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket, timing
belt, cover and crankshaft pulley as described
in Part B of this Section.
57Refit the engine and transmission with
reference to Part D of this Section.
Engine -
complete dismantling#
Warning: Refer to the beginning
of Section 9 before starting any
work.
58Detach and remove the following ancillary
items. Where applicable, refer to the
appropriate Chapter or Section within this
Chapter for more detailed removal instructions.
Engine oil dipstick
Ignition distributor and HT leads
Fuel pump
Alternator
Oil filter
Oil vapour recovery unit
Inlet and exhaust manifolds and associated
fuel injection components (as applicable)
Clutch unit
59Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the timing cover and drivebelt.
60Refer to Part B of this Section for details
and remove the cylinder head unit.
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•51
7C.54 Inserting the auxiliary shaft into the
cylinder block (rear timing belt cover
removed)7C.53 Driving a new oil seal into the
auxiliary shaft cover7C.36C Transmission front mounting
7C.55B . . . and tighten the securing bolts7C.55A Refit the auxiliary shaft cover with
a new gasket . . .
13

removal are in place under the
engine-to-gearbox bolts. Do not allow the
weight of the gearbox to hang on the input
shaft as it is engaged with the clutch friction
disc.
29Refit the starter motor, ensuring that the
wiring harness bracket is in position on the
top bolt.
30Locate the engine/transmission unit at the
front of the car and move it into position under
the engine compartment. Attach the lifting
sling and hoist as during removal.
31Enlist the aid of an assistant to help
steady the combined units as they are raised
into position and to locate the mountings in
the engine compartment.
32Once they are located, tighten the
mountings to the specified torque settings,
then disconnect the lifting hoist and sling.
33The remainder of the refitting and
reconnection procedures are a reversal of the
removal procedure described in Part C. For
further details on reconnecting the
suspension and driveshaft components,
refer to Chapter 7 and Section 13 of this
Chapter.
34Ensure that the exhaust downpipe-to-
manifold connection is clean and renew the
gasket when reconnecting this joint. Use a
smear of exhaust assembly paste on the jointfaces. Use new lockwashers and tighten the
flange nuts securely.
35Ensure that all fuel and coolant
connections are cleanly and securely made.
36Ensure that all wiring connections are
correct and securely made.
37Top up the engine and transmission oil
levels.
38Refill the cooling system.
39Check that all connections are securely
made, then reconnect the battery negative
lead.
Initial start-up after major
overhaul
40Refer to Chapter 1, Section 45.
8 Cooling system
PART A:
999 AND 1108 CC ENGINES
Description
1The operation and function of the cooling
system is essentially as described in Chapter
2 but note the location of the various
components and the routing of the coolant
hoses in Fig. 13.26.
Maintenance
2Topping-up, draining and refilling
procedures are as for 1116 and 1301 cc
engines in Chapter 2, but note that the
coolant capacity is different (see Specifica-
tions).
Thermostat -
removal and refittingÁ
3The thermostat is located on the left-hand
end of the cylinder head, below the
distributor.
4The thermostat cannot be renewed
independently of its housing and if faulty the
complete assembly must be renewed.
5Drain the cooling system.
6Although the thermostat housing can be
removed directly from the cylinder head,
better access is provided if the distributor is
first withdrawn as described in Section 10 of
this Chapter (photo).
7Disconnect the coolant hose from the
thermostat housing and unscrew the housing
flange bolts. Remove the assembly. Note that
it may be necessary to tap it free with a
plastic-faced or wooden mallet if stuck in
place.
8Remove the gasket and clean the mating
surfaces.
9Use a new gasket and bolt the assembly
into position (photo).
10Reconnect the coolant hose, then fill and
bleed the cooling system.
13•54 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.26 Cooling system circuit - 999 and 1108 cc engines (Sec 8A)
1 Coolant pump 2 Thermostat 3 Heater matrix
Fig. 13.27 Cooling system thermostat in open and closed positions - 999 and 1108 cc
engines (Sec 8A)8A.9 Fitting the thermostat housing. Note
the new gasket
8A.6 The thermostat housing (shown with
distributor removal) on the 999 cc engine

6On 999, 1108 and 1372 cc engines, the
distributor is driven from the rear end of the
camshaft.
7On the 1116 and 1299/1301 cc engines, the
distributor is driven from an extension of the
oil pump driveshaft which is geared to the
auxiliary shaft.
8The distributor contains a reluctor mounted
on its shaft, and a magnet and stator fixed to
the baseplate.
9Ignition advance is controlled in the
conventional way mechanically by centrifugal
weights and a diaphragm unit for vacuum
advance.
10Instead of the conventional method of
interrupting the low tension circuit to generate
high tension voltage in the coil by means of a
mechanical contact breaker, when the
electronic ignition is switched on, the
switching of the transistors in the electronic
control unit (ECU) prevents current flow in the
coil primary windings.
11Once the crankshaft rotates, the reluctor
moves through the magnetic field created by
the stator and when the reluctor teeth are in
alignment with the stator projections a small
AC voltage is created. The ECU amplifies this
voltage and applies it to switch the transistors
and so provide an earth path for the primary
circuit.
12As the reluctor teeth move out of
alignment with the stator projections the AC
voltage changes, the transistors in the ECU
are switched again to interrupt the primary
circuit earth path. This causes a high voltage
to be induced in the secondary winding.
Distributor
(breakerless type) -
removal and refitting
#
13Removal of the distributor on the 903,1116, 1299 and 1301 cc engines is as
described in Chapter 4, Section 6.
14On 999, 1108 and 1372 cc engines, mark
the position of the distributor clamp plate in
relation to the cylinder head surface.
15Unclip the distributor cap and move it to
one side with the HT leads attached.
16Disconnect the LT lead plug and, where
applicable, the vacuum hose (photo).
17Unscrew the distributor fixing nuts and
withdraw the unit.
18The distributor drive is by means of an
offset dog no special procedure is required to
refit it. Providing the dog engages in its slot
and the distributor body is turned to align the
marks made before removal, the timing will
automatically be correct.
19If a new distributor is being fitted (body
unmarked), set No. 4 piston at TDC (0º) by
turning the crankshaft pulley bolt until the
timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and
engine front cover are in alignment.
20Align the drive dog and fit the distributor
then turn the distributor body until the contact
end of the rotor is aligned with the arrow on
the distributor dust shield.
21Tighten the distributor clamp nuts. Refit the
cap and disconnected components and then
check ignition timing using a stroboscope.
Distributor (breakerless
type) - overhaul#
22It is recommended that a worn out or
faulty distributor is renewed. However,
individual components such as the cap, rotor,
reluctor, magnet/stator/baseplate assembly,
vacuum diaphragm unit, and drive gear or dog
are available separately.
Breakerless
ignition system
components - testing
ª
23A voltmeter and an ohmmeter will be
required for this work.
Primary circuit voltage
24Turn on the ignition, and using a voltmeter
check the voltage at the ignition coil LT
terminals. Any deviation from battery voltage
will indicate a faulty connection, or if these are
satisfactory, then the coil is unserviceable.
Magnetic impulse generator winding
25Remove the distributor and ECU and
disconnect their connecting leads.
26Connect an ohmmeter to the impulse
generator terminals and note the reading. The
resistance should be as given in the Specifi-
cations at the beginning of this Chapter.
27Now check between one of the impulse
generator terminals and the metal body of the
distributor. Infinity should be indicated on the
ohmmeter. If it is not, renew the impulse
generator carrier plate. Note: When carrying out
this test it is imperative that the connections are
remade as originally observed. Also ensure that
there is no possibility of the ECU supply (red)
cable and earth cable making contact in service.
Ignition coil winding resistance
28Check the resistance using an ohmmeter
between the coil LT terminals. Refer to the
Specifications for the expected coil resistance.
29Check the resistance between the LT lead
socket on the coil and each of the LT
terminals. Refer to the Specifications for the
expected coil resistance.
30The rotor arm resistance should be
approximately 5000 ohms.
Microplex ignition system -
description
31This system is fitted to the 1301 and
1372 cc Turbo ie models, and comprises the
following components.
Electro-magnetic sensors
32Two sensors are used to pick up engine
speed and TDC position directly from the
crankshaft.
Pressure and vacuum sensor
33This converts inlet manifold vacuum
pressure into an electrical signal for use by
the electronic control unit (ECU).
Anti-knock sensor
34This converts “pinking” detonations which
occur within the combustion chambers into
an electrical signal for use by the ECU (photo).
Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
35This computes the optimum ignition
advance angle from the sensor signals
received, and controls the action of the
ignition unit (photo).
13•86 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
Fig. 13.72 Rotor aligned with arrow on
distributor dust shield - 999 and 1108 cc
engines (Sec 10)
1 ECU
2 Ignition coil
3 Distributor
4 Vacuum advance
unit5 Pick-up filter with
calibrated opening
for atmospheric
pressure
Fig. 13.71 Location of electronic ignition
components on early models with
breakerless ignition (Sec 10)
10.16 Distributor LT lead connecting plug

27The engine must now be supported at its
left-hand end. If the engine/transmission lift
bracket is unbolted it can be attached at
another suitable position on the engine and
the lift sling/tool attached to it, but take care
not to attach it to a weak fixing point.
28The engine will need to be supported
using an engine lift beam/support bar of the
type shown in Fig. 13.93. A strong wood or
metal beam resting on blocks in the front wing
drain channels will suffice, or alternatively use
an engine lift hoist and sling.
29Refer to Section 13 in this Chapter and
Section 2 in Chapter 7 for details and remove
the front driveshaft each side.
30Prise back the tabs of the retaining
washers, then undo the retaining nuts and
detach the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Detach the exhaust mounting
bracket (where applicable) and lower the
exhaust to allow access to the gearchange
linkages.
31Disconnect the gearchange control and
selector link rod balljoints (photo). Do not alter
their lengths or the adjustment setting will be
affected.
32Using a small diameter pin punch, drive the
retaining pins from the retaining clips which
secure the left-hand side underwing shield.
Prise free the clips and detach the shield.
33Undo the retaining bolts and remove the
lower cover plate from the flywheel housing
(photo).
34Position a trolley jack under the
transmission with an interposed block ofwood to protect the casing and spread the
load. Raise the jack to support the weight of
the transmission.
35Check that the weight of the engine is
securely supported, then unbolt and detach
the front engine mounting unit, then the rear
engine mounting unit.
36Unscrew and remove the remaining bolts
securing the transmission to the engine. As
they are removed, note the position of any
brackets or additional fixings secured by
these bolts (photo).
37Check around the transmission to ensure
that all fixings are detached from it and out of
the way, then carefully pull the transmission
free from the engine dowel pins. If possible
engage the aid of an assistant to help in
guiding or lowering the unit as it is removed.
As the unit is withdrawn from the engine, take
care not to place any strain on the input shaft.
Once the input shaft is clear of the clutch, the
transmission can be lowered and manoeuvred
from underneath the car. If available, lower the
unit onto a suitable crawler board to ease its
withdrawal from under the front end of the car.
38Dismantling and overhaul of this
transmission is not recommended. If the
transmission has covered a high mileage it is
likely that several internal components are in
need of renewal. The cumulative cost of
renewing all worn and defective components
will almost certainly make overhaul
uneconomical when compared with the cost
of a new or service exchange transmission
from a FIAT dealer or transmission specialist.39Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but note the following special
points.
a) Ensure that the engine and transmission
mating surfaces and the dowel pins are
clean and that all clutch components are
in good condition.
b) Apply a thin smear of molybdenum
disulphide grease to the splines of the
input shaft. Do not over-lubricate though
or the grease may work its way onto the
clutch friction surfaces and cause clutch
slip.
c) Raise the transmission so that it is in-line
with the engine, engage the end of the
input shaft into the clutch driven plate hub
and align the splines of each to enable the
transmission to be pushed home. It may
well be necessary to turn the flywheel a
fraction so that the splines align for
re-engagement
d) Do not fully tighten the engine and
transmission retaining bolts until all are
attached.
e) Tighten all retaining bolts and nuts of the
specified torque wrench settings (where
given).
f) Refer to Section 13 in this Chapter for
details on refitting the driveshafts.
g) Refill the transmission with the specified
quantity and grade of oil before lowering
the car to the ground (see paragraph 11).
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•97
Fig. 13.93 FIAT lift beam/support bar in
place to support the weight of the engine.
Inset shows lift hook engagement point -
1372 cc models (Sec 12)
12B.24B . . . and retaining bolts (arrowed)
on the 1372 cc ie engine12B.24A Starter motor electrical
connection . . .
12B.36 Transmission upper retaining bolts.
Note bracket under the left-hand bolt12B.33 Lower cover plate and retaining
bolts (arrowed)12B.31 Gear control and selector link rod
joints
13

20When reassembling, pack the joint with
special FIAT Tutela MRM2 lubricant; if this is not
available, use molybdenum disulphide grease.
21The reference groove on the outer track
must be assembled so that it is towards the
final drive when refitted (photo).
22Pack the joint and the inside of the boot
liberally with the specified grease.
23If a new joint is being fitted to the shaft,
make sure that the joint and shaft colour
codes match.
Shaft colour Joint colour
Blue Blue or white
Red Red or white
Right-hand driveshaft damper
weight (1108 cc and
1372 cc ie models) -
removal and refitting
#
24A damper weight is fitted to the longer,
right-hand driveshaft to reduce vibration (photo).25It should not be necessary to remove the
damper weight unless the driveshaft is to be
renewed, or the weight has been damaged.
26The weight is in two halves, and can be
removed by simply unscrewing the two clamp
bolts securing the two halves to the
driveshaft. Note that the weight locates on a
rubber mounting which is split along its
length, and can simply be pulled from the
driveshaft for renewal if necessary.
27Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the damper weight is positioned
exactly as shown in Fig. 13.101.
14 Braking system
PART A: BRAKING
SYSTEM - GENERAL
Front brake pads - all later
models
1The front brake pads have modified
anti-vibration plates and a wire spring fitted to
prevent them from vibrating and knocking in
operation. 2On some models the clip securing the disc
pad locking block is located on the inboard
end, rather than the outer end (shown in
Chapter 8). To ensure correct reassembly,
check the location of the original block
retaining clip before dismantling the brake
unit. The alternative fixing arrangement is
shown in the accompanying photos, in this
instance on a 1372 cc ie model (photos).
PART B: BRAKING SYSTEM
- TURBO IE MODELS
Description
1Disc brakes are fitted to all four wheels on
the Turbo ie models. The front disc brakes are
of different design from those used on other
models, in that the wear in the pads can be
checked without the need to remove the
caliper cylinder housing.
Front disc pads - renewalª
2Raise the front of the car and remove the
roadwheels.
3Check the thickness of the friction material
on the pads through the aperture in the caliper
cylinder body. If the thickness of the material
is 1.5 mm or less, then the pads on both sides
must be renewed (photo).
13•100 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
14B.3 Front disc pads (arrowed) on Turbo
ie model14A.2B Front brake locking block
orientation with inboard retaining clip14A.2A Front brake pad locking block is
secured by a clip on the inboard end of the
brake unit on certain models
Fig. 13.101 Correct position of driveshaft damper weight on 1108 cc and 1372 cc ie
models (Sec 13)
Dimensions in mm
13.24 Right-hand driveshaft damper weight
13.21 Outer track reference groove

Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, for example, FIAT garages, other
garages and accessory shops, and motor
factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows:
Officially appointed FIAT garages -This is
the best source of parts which are peculiar to
your car and otherwise not generally available
(eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox
components, badges, interior trim etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if your vehicle is still under warranty;
non-FlAT components may invalidate the
warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct
parts it will always be necessary to give the
partsman your car’s engine number, chassis
number and number for spares, and if
possible, to take the old part along for positive
identification. Many parts are available under
a factory exchange scheme - any parts
returned should always be clean. It obviously
makes good sense to go straight to the
specialists on your car for this type of part for
they are best equipped to supply you. They
will also be able to provide their own FIATservice manual for your car should you require
one.
Other garages and accessory shops - These
are often very good places to buy material
and components needed for the maintenance
of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs,
drivebelts, oils and grease, touch-up paint,
filler paste etc). They also sell accessories,
usually have convenient opening hours,
charge lower prices and can often be found
not far from home.
Motor factors - Good factors stock all of the
more important components which wear out
relatively quickly (eg clutch components,
pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake
pipes/seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor
factors will often provide new or reconditioned
components on a part exchange basis - this
can save a considerable amount of money.
Vehicle identification
numbers
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture
quite apart from major model changes. Spareparts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
numbers being essential to correct identifi-
cation of the component required.
The chassis type and number plate is
located on the wing valance under the bonnet.
The identification data plate is located on the
radiator top rail. The engine type and number
is stamped on the cylinder block. The
paintwork colour code is given on a label
stuck to the inner surface of the tailgate.
REF•12Buying spare parts & Vehicle identification numbers
Manufacturer’s plate legend
Location of under-bonnet identification numbers and plates
A Chassis type and number
B Manufacturer’s plate
C Engine number (903 cc)
D Engine number (1116 cc and 1301 cc)
Engine number on 1116 cc engine
A Name of manufacturer
B Approval number
C Vehicle identification number
D Chassis serial number
E Maximum laden weight
F Maximum laden weight
(vehicle plus trailer)G Maximum front axle weight
H Maximum rear axle weight
I Engine type
L Body type
M Spares reference
N Diesel models only (smoke
coefficient)