1983 FIAT UNO weight

removed and the weight of the car is again on
its roadwheels.
4Fill the cooling system.
5Fill the engine with oil.
6Replenish lost transmission oil.
7Reconnect the battery.
8Adjust the clutch pedal as described in
Chapter 5.
24 Engine- initial start-up after
overhaul or major repair
4
1Make sure that the battery is fully charged
and that all lubricants, coolant and fuel are
replenished.
2If the fuel system has been dismantled it will
require several revolutions of the engine on
the starter motor to pump the petrol up to the
carburettor.
3Turn the carburettor throttle speed screwthrough one complete turn to increase the idle
speed in order to offset the initial stiffness of
new engine internal components.
4As soon as the engine fires and runs, keep
it going at a fast idle speed and bring it up to
normal working temperature.
5As the engine warms up there will be odd
smells and some smoke from parts getting
hot and burning off oil deposits. The signs to
look for are leaks of water or oil which will be
obvious.
6Check also the exhaust pipe and manifold
connections as these do not always “find”
their exact gas tight position until the warmth
and vibration have acted on them and it is
almost certain that they will need tightening
further. This should be done, of course, with
the engine stopped.
7When normal running temperature has
been reached, adjust the engine idle speed as
described in Chapter 3.
8Stop the engine and wait a few minutes tosee if any lubricant or coolant is dripping out
when the engine is stationary.
9Road test the car to check that the timing is
correct and that the engine is giving the
necessary smoothness and power. Do not
race the engine - if new bearings and/or
pistons have been fitted it should be treated
as a new engine and run in at a reduced
speed for the first 500 km (300 miles).
10After the first 1500 km (900 miles) the
cylinder head bolts must be re-torqued in the
following way (engine cold).
11Remove the air cleaner and rocker cover.
Unscrew the first bolt (Fig. 1.7) through a
quarter turn and then tighten it to final stage 2
torque (see Specifications).
12Repeat on the remaining bolts, one at a
time.
13Check and adjust the valve clearances
(Section 5).
14Refit the rocker cover and air cleaner.
903 cc engine 1•23
26.4 Shim engraved mark26.2 Removing a shim from a cam follower25.4 Checking a valve clearance
1
Part 3: 1116 cc and 1301 cc engines
25 Valve clearances- checking
2
This should only be required if the valves
have been renewed or ground in, or at high
mileages when noise or poor engine
performance indicates that a check is
necessary.
It is important that each valve clearance is
set correct otherwise the timing will be
wrong and engine performance poor. If there
is no clearance at all, the valve and its seat
will soon burn. Always set the clearances
with the engine cold.
1Remove the camshaft cover. Jack-up a
front wheel and engage top gear so that by
turning the wheel, the crankshaft can be
rotated.
2Each valve clearance must be checked
when the high point of the cam is pointing
directly upward away from the cam follower.
3Check the clearances in the firing order
1-3-4-2, No. 1 cylinder being at the timing
belt end of the engine. This will minimise the
amount of crankshaft rotation required.4Insert the appropriate feeler blade
between the heel of the cam and the cam
follower shim of the first valve. If necessary
alter the thickness of the feeler blade until it
is a stiff, sliding fit. Record the thickness,
which will, of course, represent the valve
clearance for this particular valve (photo).
5Turn the crankshaft, check the second
valve clearance and record it.
6Repeat the operations on all the remaining
valves, recording their respective clearances.
7Remember that the clearance for inlet and
exhaust valves differs - see Specifications.
Counting from the timing cover end of the
engine, the valve sequence is:
Inlet 2-3-6-7
Exhaust 1-4-5-8
26 Valve clearances-
adjustment
3
1Check the valve clearances (Section 25).
2Clearances which are incorrect will mean
the particular shim will have to be changed.
To remove the shim, turn the crankshaft untilthe high point of the cam is pointing directly
upward. The cam follower will now have to
be depressed so that the shim can be
extracted. Special tools (A60642 and
A87001) are available from your Fiat dealer to
do the job, otherwise you will have to make
up a forked lever to locate on the rim of the
cam follower. This must allow room for the
shim to be prised out by means of the
cut-outs provided in the cam follower rim
(photo).
3Once the shim is extracted, establish its
thickness and change it for a thicker or
thinner one to bring the previously recorded
clearance within specification. For example,
if the measured valve clearance was 1.27
mm (0.05 in) too great, a shim thicker by this
amount will be required. Conversely, if the
clearance was 1.27 mm (0.05 in) too small, a
shim thinner by this amount will be required.
4Shims have their thickness (mm) engraved
on them; although the engraved side should
be fitted so as not to be visible, wear still
occurs and often obliterates the number. In
this case, measuring their thickness with a
metric micrometer is the only method to
establish their thickness (photo).

2The big-end bearing shells can be renewed
without having to remove the cylinder head if
the caps are unbolted and the
piston/connecting rod pushed gently about
one inch up the bore (the crankpin being at its
lowest point). If these shells are worn,
however, the main bearing shells will almost
certainly be worn as well. In this case, the
engine should be removed for complete
overhaul including crankshaft removal.
3To remove the piston/connecting rods,
remove the cylinder head as described in
Section 29.
4Grip the oil pick-up pipe and twist or rock it
from its hole in the crankcase. It is an
interference fit in the hole.
5Unscrew the nuts from the big-end caps,
then remove the caps with their bearing
shells. The caps and their connecting rods are
numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4 from the timing cover
end of the engine. The numbers are adjacent
at the big-end cap joint and on the side of the
crankcase furthest from the auxiliary shaft.
6If the bearing shells are to be used again,
tape them to their respective big-end caps.
7Push each connecting rod/piston assembly
up the bore and out of the cylinder block.
There is one reservation; if a wear ridge has
developed at the top of the bores, remove this
by careful scraping before trying to remove
the piston/rod assemblies. The ridge will
otherwise prevent removal or break the piston
rings during the attempt.
8If the connecting rod bearing shells are to
be used again, tape the shells to their
respective rods.
9Dismantling the piston/connecting rod is
described in Section 18.
Refitting
10Fit the new shells into the connecting rod
and caps, ensuring the surfaces on which the
shells seat, are clean and dry.
11Check that the piston ring gaps are evenly
spaced at 120º intervals. Liberally oil the rings
and the cylinder bores.
12Fit a piston ring clamp to compress the
rings.
13Insert the piston/connecting rod into the
cylinder bore, checking that the rod assembly
is correct for that particular bore. The cap and
rod matching numbers must be furthest away
from the auxiliary shaft (Fig. 1.31).14Push the piston into the bore until the
piston ring clamp is against the cylinder block
and then tap the crown of the piston lightly to
push it out of the ring clamp and into the bore
(photo).
15Oil the crankshaft journal and fit the
big-end of the connecting rod to the journal.
Fit the big-end cap and nuts, checking that
the cap is the right way round (photo).
16Tighten the big-end nuts to the specified
torque. The correct torque is important as the
nuts have no locking arrangement. After
tightening each big-end, check the crankshaft
rotates smoothly (photo).
17Refit the oil pick-up pipe, the cylinder
head, oil pump and sump pan, all as
described earlier.
18Refill the engine with oil and coolant.
33 Engine mountings-
renewal
1
1Three engine/transmission flexible
mountings are used.
2To renew a mounting, support the weight of
the engine/transmission on a hoist or jack and
unbolt and remove the mounting.
3In the unlikely event of all three mountings
requiring renewal at the same time, only
disconnect them and renew them one at a
time.
34 Engine- method of removal
1The engine complete with transmission
should be removed by lowering it to the floor
and withdrawing it from under the front of the
car which will have been raised to provide
adequate clearance.
35 Engine/transmission-
removal and separation
3
1Open the bonnet, disconnect the
windscreen washer tube.
2Mark the hinge positions on the undersideof the bonnet and then with the help of an
assistant to support its weight unbolt and
remove the bonnet to a safe place.
3Disconnect the battery negative lead.
4Drain the cooling system and the engine
and transmission oils.
5Remove the air cleaner.
6From the rear of the alternator disconnect
the electrical leads.
7Disconnect the leads from the starter
motor, oil pressure and coolant temperature
switches, also the oil temperature switch.
8Disconnect the LT lead from the distributor
and the HT lead from the ignition coil.
9Disconnect the clutch cable from the
release lever at the transmission. Also
disconnect the speedometer drive cable
(knurled ring).
10Pull the leads from the reversing lamp
switch.
11Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
engine. Also disconnect the brake servo hose
from the intake manifold.
12Disconnect the choke and throttle
controls from the carburettor.
13Disconnect the inlet hose from the fuel
pump and plug the hose.
14Disconnect the fuel return hose from the
carburettor.
15Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
carburettor throttle block.
16Raise the front of the car and remove the
front roadwheels.
17Unscrew and remove the driveshaft to
hub nuts. These are very tight and a long
knuckle bar will be required when unscrewing
them. Have an assistant apply the brake pedal
hard to prevent the hub from turning.
18Working under the car, remove the inner
wing protective shields and then disconnect
the exhaust downpipe from the manifold.
19Disconnect the exhaust pipe sections by
removing the socket clamp just forward of the
rear axle beam. Remove the front section.
20Disconnect the forward ends of the
gearchange rods by prising their sockets from
the ballstuds.
21Unscrew the nuts on the steering tie-rod
end balljoints and then using a suitable
“splitter” tool, separate the balljoints from the
steering arms.
22Unbolt the front brake hose support clips
1116 cc and 1301 cc engine 1•27
32.16 Tightening a big-end cap nut32.15 Fitting a big-end cap32.14 Fitting piston into cylinder bore
1

from the suspension struts and then remove
the bolts which secure the hub carriers to the
U-clamps at the base of the suspension
struts.
23Pull the tops of the hub carriers down and
then outwards and push the driveshafts from
them.
24Unbolt the driveshaft inboard boot
retainers and then remove the driveshafts
from the transmission.
25Support the engine on a hoist or use a
trolley jack under the engine/transmission.
Remove the bottom mounting and then the
upper left and right-hand ones.
26Lower the power unit to the floor by
pushing it to the left-hand side to clear the
right-hand mounting bracket and then swivel
the gearbox towards the rear of the car.
Withdraw the engine/transmission from under
the car.
27External dirt and grease should now be
removed using paraffin and a stiff brush or a
water-soluble solvent.
28Unbolt and remove the engine mounting
brackets and the starter motor.
29Unbolt and remove the cover plate with
the gearchange ball stud strut from the lower
front face of the flywheel housing.
30With the engine resting squarely on its
sump pan, unscrew the flywheel housing
connecting bolts, noting the location of any
lifting lugs and hose and wiring clips.
31Support the weight of the transmission
and withdraw it in a straight line from the
engine.
36 Engine- dismantling (general)
Refer to Section 14, Part 2.
37 Engine ancillary components
- removal
Refer to Section 15, Part 2 and also remove
the intake manifold.
38 Engine-
complete dismantling
3
1Have the engine resting squarely and
supported securely on the work surface.
2Unbolt and remove the timing belt cover.
3Grip the now exposed timing belt with the
hands and loosen the camshaft sprocket.
4Release the timing belt tensioner pulley
centre bolt, then slip the belt from the pulley
and sprockets to remove it. Note which way
round the belt is fitted, usually so that the
lettering on the belt can be read from the
crankshaft pulley end of the engine.
5Remove the camshaft sprocket.6Unbolt and remove the camshaft timing belt
cover backing plate.
7Unbolt and remove the camshaft carrier
cover.
8Unbolt the camshaft carrier and lift it off
very slowly, at the same time pushing the cam
followers and their shims down with the
fingers securely onto their respective valve
springs. It is easy to remove the camshaft
carrier too quickly with some of the cam
followers stuck in it and as the carrier is lifted
away, the cam followers will fall out. If this
happens, the valve clearances will be upset as
the cam followers and shims cannot be
returned, with any certainty, to their original
positions. Keep the cam followers and shims
in their originally fitted order.
9Unscrew and remove the cylinder head
bolts and nuts, grip the manifold, rock the
head and remove the complete cylinder
head/manifold/carburettor assembly. Remove
and discard the cylinder head gasket.
10Unbolt the coolant pump from the side of
the cylinder block and remove it complete
with coolant distribution pipe. Remove the
crankcase breather.
11Remove the distributor/oil pump
driveshaft. This is simply carried out by
inserting a finger into the hole vacated by the
distributor and wedging it in the hole in the
end of the driveshaft. Lift the shaft out of
mesh with the auxiliary shaft. Where the
distributor is driven by the camshaft, a cover
plate retains the oil pump driveshaft in
position.
12Unbolt and remove the sprocket from the
end of the auxiliary shaft. The sprocket is held
to the shaft with a Woodruff key.
13Unbolt the auxiliary shaft retainer and
withdraw the shaft from the crankcase.
14Unscrew and remove the crankshaft
pulley nut. This is very tight and the flywheel
starter ring gear will have to be jammed with a
cold chisel or a suitably bent piece of steel to
prevent the crankshaft rotating.
15Withdraw the crankshaft sprocket, which
is located by the Woodruff key.
16Unbolt the front engine mounting bracket
from the cylinder block, together with the
timing belt cover screw anchor bush. Unbolt
and remove the timing belt tensioner pulley.
17Unscrew the flywheel securing bolts. Thestarter ring gear will again have to be jammed
to prevent the crankshaft rotating as the bolts
are unscrewed. Mark the flywheel position in
relation to the crankshaft mounting flange,
then remove it.
18Unbolt the front and rear crankshaft oil
seal retainer bolts from the crankcase and the
sump. Remove the oil seal retainers.
19Turn the engine on its side, extract the
remaining sump bolts and remove the sump.
If it is stuck, try tapping it gently with a
soft-faced hammer. If this fails, cut all round
the sump-to-gasket flange with a sharp knife.
Do not try prising with a large screwdriver; this
will only distort the sump mating flange.
20With the sump removed, unbolt and
remove the oil pump.
21Grip the oil pick-up pipe and twist or rock
it from its hole in the crankcase. It is an
interference fit in the hole.
22Remove the piston/connecting rods as
described in Section 32.
23Before unbolting the main bearing caps,
note that they are marked with one, two, three
or four notches. No. 5 main bearing cap is
unmarked. Note that the notches are nearer
the auxiliary shaft side.
24Unbolt and remove the main bearing
caps. If the bearing shells are to be used
again, tape them to their respective caps. The
bearing shell at the centre position is plain,
the others have a lubricating groove.
25Carefully, lift the crankshaft from the
crankcase, noting the thrust washers at No. 5
main bearing. These control the crankshaft
endfloat.
39 Cylinder head- dismantling
and decarbonising
4
1The operations are similar to those
described for the ohv engine in Section 17 in
respect of decarbonising and valve grinding.
2To remove a valve, use a valve spring
compressor to compress the first valve and
then extract the split collets (photo).
3Release the valve spring compressor.
4Withdraw the valve spring cap and the
double valve springs (photos).
5Remove the valve (photo).
1•28 1116 cc and 1301 cc engine
39.4A Valve spring cap39.2 Valve spring compressor and split
collets

7 Carburettor idle speed and
mixture- adjustment
4
1All carburettors have their mixture
adjustment set in production. The screw is
fitted with a tamperproof cap.
2Under normal circumstances, only the idle
speed screw need be adjusted to set the
engine idle speed to the specified level.
3Before attempting to adjust the idle speed
or mixture, it is important to have the ignition
and valve clearances correctly set and the
engine at normal operating temperature with
the air cleaner fitted.
4Where the mixture must be adjusted, prise
out the tamperproof plug and turn the mixture
screw in to weaken or out to enrich the
mixture until the engine runs smoothly without
any tendency to “hunt”.
5Ideally an exhaust gas analyser should be
used to make sure that the CO level is within
the specified range.
6Once the mixture has been correctly set,
re-adjust the idle speed screw.
8 Carburettor-
removal and refitting
2
1Remove the air cleaner.
2Disconnect the flow and return fuel hoses
from the carburettor and plug them.3Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
carburettor throttle valve plate block.
Provided the cooling system is cold and not
under pressure there should be almost no loss
of coolant. Tie the hoses up as high as
possible with a piece of wire.
4Disconnect the vacuum and vent hoses
from the carburettor.
5Disconnect the throttle and choke controls
from the carburettor.
6Unscrew the mounting flange nuts and lift
the carburettor from the intake manifold
(photo).
7Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new
flange gasket and make sure that the fuel
return hose is routed above the air cleaner
intake.
9 Carburettor
(Weber 32 ICEV 50/250/1)-
servicing and adjustment
4
1The carburettor top cover with float may be
removed without the need to withdraw the
carburettor from the manifold. The other
adjustments described will require removal of
the carburettor.
2Unscrew the filter plug from the top cover,
clean the filter screen and refit it.
3Extract the top cover fixing screws, lift the
cover and tilt it to unhook it from the
diaphragm capsule link rod.
4Access to the fuel inlet needle valve isobtained by carefully tapping out the float arm
pivot pin. Take care, the pivot pin pillars are
very brittle.
5Check that the needle valve body is tight
otherwise fuel can bypass the needle valve
and cause flooding.
Float adjustment
6Reassemble and check the float setting. Do
this by holding the top cover vertically so that
the float hangs down under its own weight.
Measure dimension (A) (Fig. 3.10) which
should be between 1 0.50 and 11.10 mm
(0.41 to 0.44 in) with the gasket in position. If
necessary, bend the float arm tab to adjust.
7Now check the float travel which should be
45.0 mm (1.77 in). If adjustment is required,
bend the end of the float arm.
Accelerator pump stroke
8Using a twist drill as a gauge, open the
throttle valve plate through 3.5 mm (0.138 in).
9Turn the nut on the accelerator pump rod
until it just makes contact with the pump
control lever.
Fast idle adjustment
10With the choke valve plate fully closed by
means of the control lever, the throttle valve
Fuel system 3•7
Fig. 3.9 Fuel return hose correctly located
(Sec 8)
8.6 Carburettor mounting flange nut8.2 Fuel hose at carburettor
Fig. 3.10 Float setting diagram (Weber 32 ICEV 50/250) (Sec 9)
A = 10.5 to 11.0 mm (0.41 to 0.44 in) B = 45.0 mm (1.77 in)Fig. 3.11 Accelerator pump setting diagram
(Weber 32 ICEV 50/250) (Sec 9)
X = 3.5 mm (0.138 in)
3

plate should be open (dimension A) (Fig. 3.1 2)
between 0.75 and 0.80 mm (0.030 and
0.032 in). Adjust if necessary by means of the
screw and locknut.Anti-flooding device
11This consists of a diaphragm capsule and
link rod.
12The condition of the diaphragm can be
checked by applying a vacuum source to the
hole in the throttle valve plate block. The
vacuum pressure will drop if there is a leak.
13Actuate the choke valve plate lever fully
and depress the control lever of the
anti-flooding device to simulate operating
vacuum.
14There should be a gap (Y) (Fig. 3.15)
between the edge of the choke valve plate
and the wall of the carburettor throat of
between 3.75 and 4.25 mm (0.148 and
0.167 in). Any adjustment that may be needed
should be carried out by bending the link rod.
10 Carburettor
(Solex C32 DISA 11)-
servicing and adjustment
4
1The carburettor top cover with float may be
removed without the need to withdraw the
carburettor from the manifold. The other
adjustments described will require removal of
the carburettor.2Extract the top cover fixing screws,
disconnect the small externally mounted
tension spring and take off the top cover.
3Access to the fuel inlet needle valve is
obtained by carefully tapping out the float arm
pivot pin. Take care, the pivot pin pillars are
very brittle.
4Check that the needle valve body is tight
otherwise fuel can bypass the needle valve
and cause flooding.
Float adjustment
5Reassemble and check the float setting. Do
this by inverting the top cover so that the
weight of the float fully depresses the ball of
the needle valve. The distance (A) (Fig. 3.16)
between the float and the surface of the top
cover flange gasket should be between 2.0
and 3.0 mm (0.079 and 0.118 in). If
adjustment is required, alter the thickness of
the washer under the needle valve.
Accelerator pump
6Fill the carburettor float chamber and then
operate the throttle valve plate lever several
times to prime the pump.
7Position a test tube under the accelerator
3•8 Fuel system
Fig. 3.16 Float setting diagram
(Solex C32 DISA 11) (Sec 10)
A = 2.0 to 3.0 mm (0.079 to 0.118 in)
Fig. 3.17 Adjusting accelerator pump rod
(Solex C32 DISA 11) (Sec 10)
Fig. 3.15 Choke valve gap opening
(Weber 32 ICEV 50/250) (Sec 9)
Y = 3.75 to 4.25 mm (0.148 to 0.167 in)
Fig. 3.14 Anti-flooding device vacuum
intake (Weber 342 ICEV 50/250) (Sec 9)
1 Vacuum intake hole
Fig. 3.12 Fast idle adjustment diagram (Weber 32 ICEV 50/250)
(Sec 9)
A = 0.75 to 0.80 mm (0.030 to 0.032 in)Fig. 3.13 Anti-flooding device (Weber 32 ICEV 50/250)
(Sec 9)
Y = 3.75 to 4.25 mm (0.148 to 0.167 in)

control unit is functioning, if the tachometer
does not register, renew the ignition control
unit.
16If a replacement carburettor is to be fitted,
only fit the Solex assembly including the
control module, even if a Weber was originally
fitted.
12 Carburettor
(Weber 32 ICEV 51/250)-
servicing and adjustment
4
1This carburettor, fitted to 1116 cc engines,
is very similar to the unit described in Sec-
tion 9.
2The fast idle adjustment procedure is
identical, but note that dimension (A) (Fig.
3.12) should be between 0.85 and 0.90 mm
(0.033 and 0.035 in).
3The choke valve plate gap (Y) (Fig. 3.13)
should be between 5.5 and 6.5 mm (0.22 and
0.26 in) and if adjustment is required, bend
the stop on the control lever.
13 Carburettor
(Solex C32 DISA 12)-
servicing and adjustment
4
1This carburettor is an alternative to the
Weber fitted to 1116 cc engines.
2The adjustments described in Section 9
apply.
14 Carburettor
(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250)
- servicing and adjustment
4
1The carburettor top cover with float may be
removed without the need to withdraw the
carburettor from the manifold. The other
adjustments described in this Section will
require removal of the carburettor.
2Extract the top cover fixing screws and lift
away the top cover with float. Access to the
fuel inlet needle valve is as described in
Section 9 paragraphs 4 and 5.
Float adjustment
3Hold the cover vertically so that the floats
hang down under their own weight. Measure
the distance between the float and the surface
of the gasket on the top cover. This should be
between 6.75 and 7.25 mm (0.27 and 0.29 in).
4Bend the float arm if necessary to adjust
the setting.
Primary valve plate opening
5With the throttle valve plate control lever in
contact with the stop, the primary valve plate
should be open (dimension X Fig. 3.22)
between 6.45 and 6.95 mm (0.25 and 0.27 in).
If adjustment is required, carefully bend the
lever stop.
Primary and secondary valve
plate openings
6With the throttle control lever fully actuated
the valve plate gaps (X and Y Fig. 3.24) should
be:
X = 13.5 to 14.5 mm (0.53 to 0.57 in)
Y = 14.5 to 15.5 mm (0.57 to 0.61 in)
Fast idle
7Close the choke valve plate fully and check
the gap (A) (Fig. 3.25) between the edge of the
throttle valve plate and the carburettor throat.
The gap should be between 0.90 and
0.95 mm (0.035 and 0.037 in), a twist drill is
useful for measuring this.
8If adjustment is required, carry this out
using the screw and locknut.
Anti-flooding device
(mechanically-operated)
9With the choke control pulled fully out, it
should be possible to open the choke valve
plate to give a gap (X) of between 7.0 and
7.5 mm (0.28 and 0.30 in). If adjustment is
required, carefully bend the stop on the
control lever (Fig. 3.26).
3•10 Fuel system
Fig. 3.26 Anti-flooding device (mechanical)
adjustment diagram
(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)
X = 7.0 to 7.5 mm (0.28 to 0.30 in)Fig. 3.25 Fast idle adjustment diagram
(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)
A = 0.90 to 0.95 mm (0.035 to 0.037 in)
Fig. 3.24 Throttle valve plate openings
(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)
X (primary) = 13.5 to 14.5 mm (0.53 to 0.57 in)
Y (secondary) = 14.5 to 15.5 mm (0.57 to 0.61 in)Fig. 3.23 Bending throttle lever stop
(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)Fig. 3.22 Primary valve plate opening
(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)
X = 6.45 to 6.95 mm (0.25 to 0.27 in)

Anti-flooding device (automatic)
10Pull the choke control fully out and hold the
control lever, on the anti-flooding device,
depressed. There should be a gap (Y)
(Fig. 3.27) between the edge of the choke valve
plate and the carburettor wall of between 3.75
and 4.25 mm (0.15 and 0.17 in). If adjustment is
required, turn the adjuster screw provided.
15 Carburettor
(Solex C30-32 (CIC/1)-
servicing and adjustment
4
1The carburettor top cover with float may be
removed without the need to withdraw the
carburettor from the manifold.
2The other adjustments described in this
Section will require removal of the carburettor.
3Extract the top cover fixing screws and lift
away the top cover with float.
4Refer to Section 9 paragraphs 4 and 5 for
details of removal of the fuel inlet needle
valve.
Float adjustment
5Invert the carburettor cover so that theweight of the floats depresses the ball of the
needle valve.
6Measure the distance between the float and
the surface of the cover gasket. This should
be between 6.5 and 7.5 mm (0.26 and 0.30 in).
If adjustment is required, change the
thickness of the needle valve washer or
carefully bend the float arm.
Accelerator pump
7Refer to Section 10, paragraphs 6 and 7.
The total volume of fuel collected should be
between 7.5 and 9.5 cc. If the volume of fuel
is incorrect, release the locknut and turn the
adjuster screw on the pump lever then re-test
the volume ejected.
Fast idle
8Operate the choke control lever to close the
choke valve plate. The gap between the edge
of the primary throttle valve plate and the
venturi wall should be between 0.90 and
1.00 mm (0.035 and 0.039 in). If adjustment is
required, turn the nut on the fast idle rod.
Automatic anti-flooding device
9The vacuum system of the device can be
checked for leaks by applying a vacuum to
the drilling in the carburettor throttle valve
block. If vacuum cannot be maintained, renew
the diaphragm.
Choke valve plate automatic
opening
10Move the choke control lever to fully close
the choke valve plate and then press the lean
out valve rod. There should now be a gap (X)
(Fig. 3.32) between the edge of the choke
valve plate and the wall of the carburettor
throat of between 4.75 and 5.25 mm (0.187
and 0.207 in).
11Where adjustment is required, release the
locknut and turn the screw on the lean out
valve.
16 Economy meter
1This device is fitted to ES (energy saving)
models. It is essentially a vacuum gauge to
advise the driver with regard to economical
throttle opening related to engine and road
speed. The point of change to a higher gear
can also be deduced from this gauge. The
latter facility is provided by an LED (light
emitting diode).
2Fault testing of the system is described in
Chapter 9.
Fuel system 3•11
Fig. 3.29 Adjusting accelerator pump
stroke (Solex C30-32 CIC/1) (Sec 15)Fig. 3.28 Float setting diagram
(Solex C30-32 CIC/1) (Sec 14)
A = 6.7 to 7.5 mm (0.26 to 0.30 in)
Fig. 3.32 Choke valve plate setting
(Solex C30-32 CIC/1) (Sec 15)
X = 4.75 to 5.25 mm (0.187 to 0.207 in)Fig. 3.30 Fast idle screw on
Solex C30-32 CIC/1 (Sec 15)
A Choke control lever C Lean out valve
B Fast idle adjustmentFig. 3.31 Vacuum drilling for automatic
anti-flooding device (Solex C30-32 CIC/1)
(Sec 15)
3
Fig. 3.27 Anti-flooding device (automatic)
adjustment diagram
(Weber 30/32 DMTR 90/250) (Sec 14)
Y = 3.75 to 4.25 mm (0.148 to 0.167 in)

Spark plugs
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RN9YCC or RN9YC
Electrode gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 mm (0.031 in)
HT leads
903 cc (45) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-07
1116, 1299 and 1301 cc (55, 60 and 70) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion LS-05
Torque wrench settingNm lbf ft
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
4•2 Ignition system
1 General description
On all models except the 903 ES engine
version, a mechanical contact breaker type
distributor is fitted.
On 45 Super ES models which have the
903 ES engine, an electronic (Digiplex) ignition
system is used which incorporates a
breakerless distributor.
Mechanical contact breaker
system
For the engine to run correctly, it is
necessary for an electrical spark to ignite the
fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber at
exactly the right moment in relation to engine
speed and load. The ignition system is based
on feeding low tension voltage from the
battery to the coil where it is converted to high
tension voltage. The high tension voltage is
powerful enough to jump the spark plug gap
in the cylinders under high compression
pressures, providing that the system is in
good condition and that all adjustments are
correct.
The ignition system is divided into two
circuits, the low tension (LT) circuit and the
high tension (HT) circuit.
The low tension (sometimes known as the
primary) circuit consists of the battery, the
lead to the ignition switch, the lead from the
ignition switch to the low tension or primary
coil windings, and the lead from the low
tension coil windings to the contact breaker
points and condenser in the distributor.
The high tension circuit consists of the high
tension or secondary coil windings, the heavy
ignition lead from the centre of the coil to the
centre of the distributor cap, the rotor arm,
and the spark plug leads and spark plugs.
The system functions in the following
manner: High tension voltage is generated in
the coil by the interruption of the low tension
circuit. The interruption is effected by the
opening of the contact breaker points in this
low tension circuit. High tension voltage is fed
from the centre of the coil via the carbon
brush in the centre of the distributor cap to
the rotor arm of the distributor.
The rotor arm revolves at half engine speed
inside the distributor cap, and each time it
comes in line with one of the four metal
segments in the cap, which are connected to
the spark plug leads, the opening of thecontact breaker points causes the high
tension voltage to build up, jump the gap from
the rotor arm to the appropriate metal
segment, and so via the spark plug lead to the
spark plug, where it finally jumps the spark
plug gap before going to earth.
The ignition timing is advanced and
retarded automatically, to ensure the sparkoccurs at just the right instant for the
particular load at the prevailing engine speed.
The ignition advance is controlled
mechanically, and by vacuum. The
mechanical governor mechanism consists of
two weights, which move out from the
distributor shaft as the engine speed rises,
due to centrifugal force. As they move
Fig. 4.1 Typical ignition circuit (mechanical contact breaker distributor) (Sec 1)
1 Control unit
2 Multi-plug
3 Ignition coil
4 Distributor cap5 Crankshaft pulley
6 Flywheel
7 Battery
8 Rev counter9 Spark plugs
10 Wiring connector
S1 Engine speed sensor
S2 TDC sensor
Fig. 4.2 Digiplex electronic ignition system (Sec 1)