1983 FIAT UNO bulb

Wiring diagrams 14•21
14
Component key for wiring diagrams 30 to 52 (continued)
Note: Not all the items listed will be fitted to all models
No Description
111 Push button on left front pillar for
centre courtesy light
112 Front electric windows switch panel,
driver’s side
113 Join between dashboard cable and
adjustable map reading light cables
114 Join with left front electric window
cables
115 Join between dashboard cable and
rear cables
116 Join between rear cable and courtesy
light cables
117 Left front speaker
118 Handbrake ‘on’ switch
119 Centre courtesy light bulb
119A Adjustable map reading light on rear
view mirror
120 Right front electric window motor
121 Right front central locking geared
motor
122 Switch signalling right front door ajar
123 Push button on right front pillar for
centre courtesy light
124 Electric windows control panel,
passenger side
125 Fuel level gauge
126 Join with right front electric window
cables
127 Join between engine cable and
dashboard cables
128 Right front speaker
129 Left rear light cluster
130 Join between rear cable and luggage
compartment courtesy light
131 Windscreen washer pump wiring join
132 Rear screen washer pump wiring join
133 Left rear earth
134 Rear screen wiper motor
135 Electric fuel pump
136 Rear number plate lamp
137 Heated rear screen
138 Right rear light cluster
139 Rear foglamp go-ahead switch
140 Join between front cable and antiskid
brakes cables
141 Join between front cable and antiskid
brakes cables
142 25 A fuse for antiskid brakes
143 Antiskid braking system control unit
144 Left modulator for antiskid brakes
145 Right modulator for antiskid brakes
146 Sensor on left front wheel
147 Sensor on right front wheel
148 10A fuse for antiskid braking system
149 Vacuum switch for antiskid braking
system
150 Antiskid braking system engagement
relay
151 Antiskid braking system failure
signalling switch
152 Digiplex electronic ignition control
unitNo Description
153 Bosch SPi Mono-Jetronic injection
system control unit
155 Join between engine cable and
injection cables
156 Join between engine cable and rear
cables for SPi system
157 Idle adjustment actuator
158 Throttle position switch
159 Injector current restriction resistor
(SPi)
162 Engine cut-out solenoid
163 Idle cut-out solenoid valve
168 Tachometer electro-magnetic sensor
169 Automatic heater control unit
170 Heater fan
171 Outside temperature sensor
172 Mixed air temperature sensor
173 Air mixture flap electrical control
motor
174 Diagnostic socket for automatic
heater
175 Connector block
176 Connector block
177 Join with cables for automatic heater
178 Radiator coolant circulation solenoid
valve
179 Automatic heater unit:
A Temperature control potentiometer
B Fan speed control potentiometer
C Heater controls light bulbs
D Ideogram signalling automatic
function engaged
E Automatic function engaged
switch
180 Horn
181 Check Panel:
A Insufficient engine oil level warning
light
B Insufficient coolant level warning
light
C Failure with side lights/rear
foglamp/rear number
plate light/braking lights warning light
D Insufficient brake fluid level
warning light
E Door ajar warning light
F Brake pad wear warning light
182 Earth on dashboard
183 Join with cables for central locking
184 Join with cables for central locking
185 Left rear central locking geared motor
186 Right rear central locking geared
motor
187 Contact on choke lever
188 Resistor for inlet manifold heating
189 Pre-heating thermal switch
191 Heated Lambda sensor
192 Lambda sensor protective fuse
193 Silicon diode
194 Join between front cable and injection
cable
197 Connector blockNo Description
198 Rear cable join
199 Insufficient engine oil level sensor
200 Insufficient coolant level sensor
201 Switch signalling left rear door ajar
202 Switch signalling right rear door ajar
203 Switch on gear selector
204 Light for gear selector panel signalling
gear engaged
205 Parking signal not on
206 Connector block
207 Join in engine compartment with
injection cables
208 Petrol vapour cut out-solenoid valve
209 Petrol vapour cut out-solenoid valve
210 Airflow meter
211 Speedometer relay
212 LE2 Jetronic electronic injection
control unit
213 Connector block
214 Connector block
215 Connector block
216 Ignition cable join
217 Join between front cable and
emission control cable
218 Join between front cable and battery
cable
219 Injection system air temperature
sensor
220 Ignition control unit relay feed
225 Front cable join
226 Front cable join
227 Dim-dip circuit cut out switch
228 Dim-dip circuit resistance
229 Dim-dip circuit 7.5 A protective fuse
230 Driver’s side seat heated pad
231 Driver’s seat backrest heated pad
232 10 A protective fuse for driver’s seat
heated pads
233 Foglamps go-ahead switch
234 Driving lights cut out switch
235 Dipped headlamps relay
236 Main beam headlamps relay
237 Join between engine cable and
dashboard cables
Wire colour codes
A Light blue
B White
C Orange
G Yellow
H Grey
L Blue
M Brown
N Black
R Red
S Pink
V Green
Z Violet
Example of two-colour wire:
BN (White/Black)

Fault FindingREF•9
REF
Introduction
The vehicle owner who does his or her own
maintenance according to the recommended
schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component
reliability is such that, provided those items
subject to wear or deterioration are inspected
or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden
failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not
usually just happen as a result of sudden
failure, but develop over a period of time.
Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms
over hundreds or even thousands of miles.
Those components which do occasionally fail
without warning are often small and easily
carried in the vehicle.
With any fault finding, the first step is to
decide where to begin investigations.
Sometimes this is obvious, but on other
occasions a little detective work will be
necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or
replacements may be successful in curing a
fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the
wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have
spent more time and money than was
necessary. A calm and logical approach will
be found to be more satisfactory in the long
run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been
noticed in the period preceding the fault –
power loss, high or low gauge readings,
unusual noises or smells, etc – and remember
that failure of components such as fuses or
spark plugs may only be pointers to some
underlying fault.
The pages which follow here are intended
to help in cases of failure to start or
breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault
Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter
which should be consulted if the preliminary
checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault,
certain basic principles apply. These are as
follows:Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of
being sure that you know what the symptoms
are before starting work. This is particularly
important if you are investigating a fault for
someone else who may not have described it
very accurately.
Don’t overlook the obvious. For example,
if the vehicle won’t start, is there petrol in the
tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this
particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge
either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look
for loose or broken wires before digging out
the test gear.
Cure the disease, not the symptom.
Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged
one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if
the underlying cause is not attended to,the
new battery will go the same way. Similarly,
changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set
will get you moving again, but remember that
the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an
incorrect grade of plug) will have to be
established and corrected.
Don’t take anything for granted.
Particularly, don’t forget that a ‘new’
component may itself be defective (especially
if it’s been rattling round in the boot for
months), and don’t leave components out of a
fault diagnosis sequence just because they
are new or recently fitted. When you do finally
diagnose a difficult fault, you’ll probably
realise that all the evidence was there from
the start.
Electrical faults
Electrical faults can be more puzzling than
straightforward mechanical failures, but they
are no less susceptible to logical analysis if
the basic principles of operation are
understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in
extremely unfavourable conditions – heat,
vibration and chemical attack and the first
things to look for are loose or corroded
connections and broken or chafed wires,especially where the wires pass through holes
in the bodywork or are subject to vibration.
All metal-bodied vehicles in current
production have one pole of the battery
‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle
bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it
is the negative (–) terminal. The various
electrical components – motors, bulb holders,
etc – are also connected to earth, either by
means of a lead or directly by their mountings.
Electric current flows through the component
and then back to the battery via the
bodywork. If the component mounting is
loose or corroded, or if a good path back to
the battery is not available, the circuit will be
incomplete and malfunction will result. The
engine and/or gearbox are also earthed by
means of flexible metal straps to the body or
subframe; if these straps are loose or missing,
starter motor, generator and ignition trouble
may result.
Assuming the earth return to be
satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either
to component malfunction or to defects in the
current supply. Individual components are
dealt with in Chapter 9. If supply wires are
broken or cracked internally this results in an
open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for
this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily
with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or
suitable connector at each end. Alternatively,
a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the
presence of supply voltage at various points
along the wire and the break can be thus
isolated.
If a bare portion of a live wire touches the
bodywork or other earthed metal part, the
electricity will take the low-resistance path
thus formed back to the battery: this is known
as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will
blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause
burning of the insulation (and possibly further
short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is
inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing
fuses with silver foil or wire.

Engine fails to turn when starter
operated
m mFlat battery (recharge use jump leads or
push start)
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine earth strap loose or broken
m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or
broken
m mIgnition/starter switch faulty
m mMajor mechanical failure (seizure)
m mStarter or solenoid internal fault (see
Chapter 12)
Starter motor turns engine slowly
m mPartially discharged battery (recharge, use
jump leads, or push start)
m mBattery terminals loose or corroded
m mBattery earth to body defective
m mEngine earth strap loose m mStarter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose
m mStarter motor internal fault (see Chapter 9)
Starter motor spins without
turning engine
m mFlywheel gear teeth damaged or worn
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose
Engine turns normally but fails to
start
m mDamp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap
(crank engine and check for spark)
m mNo fuel in tank (check for delivery at
carburettor) m mExcessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient
choke (cold engine)
m mFouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs
(remove, clean and regap)
m mOther ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
m mPoor compression (see Chapter 1)
m mMajor mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)
Engine fires but will not run
m
mInsufficient choke (cold engine)
m mAir leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold
m mFuel starvation (see Chapter 3)
m mIgnition fault (see Chapter 4)
Engine will not start
REF•10Fault Finding
Spares and tool kit
Most vehicles are supplied only with
sufficient tools for wheel changing; the
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit detailed
in Tools and working facilities,with the
addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient
for those repairs that most motorists would
consider attempting at the roadside. In
addition a few items which can be fitted
without too much trouble in the event of a
breakdown should be carried. Experience and
available space will modify the list below, but
the following may save having to call on
professional assistance:
m mSpark plugs, clean and correctly gapped
m mHT lead and plug cap – long enough to
reach the plug furthest from the distributor
m mDistributor rotor, condenser and contact
breaker points (where applicable)m mDrivebelt(s) — emergency type may
suffice
m mSpare fuses
m mSet of principal light bulbs
m mTin of radiator sealer and hose bandage
m mExhaust bandage
m mRoll of insulating tape
m mLength of soft iron wire
m mLength of electrical flex
m mTorch or inspection lamp (can double as
test lamp)
m mBattery jump leads
m mTow-rope
m mIgnition waterproofing aerosol
m mLitre of engine oil
m mSealed can of hydraulic fluid
m mEmergency windscreen
m mWormdrive clips
m mTube of filler pasteIf spare fuel is carried, a can designed for
the purpose should be used to minimise risks
of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit
and a warning triangle, whilst not at present
compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible
items to carry in addition to the above. When
touring abroad it may be advisable to carry
additional spares which, even if you cannot fit
them yourself, could save having to wait while
parts are obtained. The items below may be
worth considering:
m mClutch and throttle cables
m mCylinder head gasket
m mAlternator brushes
m mTyre valve core
One of the motoring organisations will be
able to advise on availability of fuel, etc, in
foreign countries.
A simple test lamp is useful for checking
electrical faultsCarrying a few spares may save you a long walk!

Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, for example, FIAT garages, other
garages and accessory shops, and motor
factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows:
Officially appointed FIAT garages -This is
the best source of parts which are peculiar to
your car and otherwise not generally available
(eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox
components, badges, interior trim etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if your vehicle is still under warranty;
non-FlAT components may invalidate the
warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct
parts it will always be necessary to give the
partsman your car’s engine number, chassis
number and number for spares, and if
possible, to take the old part along for positive
identification. Many parts are available under
a factory exchange scheme - any parts
returned should always be clean. It obviously
makes good sense to go straight to the
specialists on your car for this type of part for
they are best equipped to supply you. They
will also be able to provide their own FIATservice manual for your car should you require
one.
Other garages and accessory shops - These
are often very good places to buy material
and components needed for the maintenance
of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs,
drivebelts, oils and grease, touch-up paint,
filler paste etc). They also sell accessories,
usually have convenient opening hours,
charge lower prices and can often be found
not far from home.
Motor factors - Good factors stock all of the
more important components which wear out
relatively quickly (eg clutch components,
pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake
pipes/seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor
factors will often provide new or reconditioned
components on a part exchange basis - this
can save a considerable amount of money.
Vehicle identification
numbers
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture
quite apart from major model changes. Spareparts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
numbers being essential to correct identifi-
cation of the component required.
The chassis type and number plate is
located on the wing valance under the bonnet.
The identification data plate is located on the
radiator top rail. The engine type and number
is stamped on the cylinder block. The
paintwork colour code is given on a label
stuck to the inner surface of the tailgate.
REF•12Buying spare parts & Vehicle identification numbers
Manufacturer’s plate legend
Location of under-bonnet identification numbers and plates
A Chassis type and number
B Manufacturer’s plate
C Engine number (903 cc)
D Engine number (1116 cc and 1301 cc)
Engine number on 1116 cc engine
A Name of manufacturer
B Approval number
C Vehicle identification number
D Chassis serial number
E Maximum laden weight
F Maximum laden weight
(vehicle plus trailer)G Maximum front axle weight
H Maximum rear axle weight
I Engine type
L Body type
M Spares reference
N Diesel models only (smoke
coefficient)