1969 FORD MUSTANG oil type

02-01-08
Brakes

02-01-08

BEARING CUP

DIMENSION "B"

0.755 MINIMUM

DIMENSION "A'

0.395 MINIMUM

H1532-B

FIG. 12—Disc Brake Rotor Service

Limits—Lincoln Continental

per splash shield or the bleeder screw

fitting.

4.
Front wheel bearing end play is

critical and must be within specifica-

tions.

5.
Be sure the vehicle is centered on

the hoist before servicing any front

end components, to avoid bending or

damaging the rotor splash shield on

full right or left wheel turns.

6. The proportioning valve should

not be disassembled or adjustments

attempted on it.

7.
Riding of the brake pedal (com-

mon on left foot applications) should

be avoided during vehicle operation.

8. The wheel and tire must be re-

moved ' separately from the brake

rotor, unlike drum brakes where the
wheel, tire and drum are removed as a

unit.

9. On floating caliper type disc

brakes whenever the caliper is re-

moved the caliper locating pins should

be inspected for wear or damage.

10.
On floating caliper type disc

brakes, the caliper assembly must be

removed from the spindle prior to re-

moval of the shoe and lining assem-

blies.

11.
On floating caliper type disc

brakes the calipers must not be inter-

changed from one side to the other.

When the caliper is installed on its

proper anchor plate and spindle, the

bleeder screw will point to the rear of

the vehicle (Fig. 22). If a caliper is in-

stalled on the wrong side of the vehi-

cle,
it is not possible to bleed the sys-

tem properly.

12.
Do not attempt to clean or re-

store oil or grease soaked brake lin-

ings.
When contaminated linings are

found, brake linings must be replaced

in complete axle sets.

DRUM BRAKES

1.
Remove the wheel from the

drum, and remove the drum as out-

lined in Part 2-2, Section 2.

2.
Brush all dust from the backing

plates and interior of the brake

drums.

3.
Inspect the brake shoes for ex-

cessive lining wear or shoe damage. If

the lining is worn within 1/32 inch of

the rivet heads or if the shoes are

damaged, they must be replaced. Re-

place any lining that had been con-

taminated with oil, grease or brake
fluid. Replace lining in axle sets. Prior

to replacement of lining, the drum di-

ameter should be checked to deter-

mine if oversize linings must be in-

stalled.

4.
Check the condition of brake

shoes,
retracting springs, hold-down

springs, and drum for signs of over-

heating. If the shoes have a slight blue

coloring, indicating overheating, re-

placement of the retracting and hold-.

down springs is strongly recommended.

Overheated springs lose their pull and

could cause the new lining i:o wear

prematurely, if they are not replaced.

5. If the vehicle has 30,000 or more

miles of operation on the brake linings

or signs of overheating are present

when relining brakes, the wheel cylin-

ders should be disassembled and in-

spected for wear and entrance of dirt

into the cylinder. The cylinder cups

should be replaced, thus avoiding fu-

ture problems.

6. Inspect all other brake parts and

replace any that are worn or dam-

aged.

7.
Inspect the brake drum and, if

necessary, refinish. Refer to Part 2-2,

Section 4 for refinishing.

BRAKE BOOSTER

Check the booster operation as

noted in Part 2-1, Section 1, Power

Brake Functional Test. If the brake

booster is damaged or defective, re-

place it with a new booster. The brake

booster is serviced only as an assem-

bly.procarmanuals.com

02-02-10
Brake System

02-02-10

brake adjustment then connect the

parking brake cable to the parking

brake lever (Fig. 8).

4.
Install the shoe guide (anchor

pin) plate on the anchor pin when so

equipped.

5.
Place the cable eye over the an-

chor pin with the crimped side toward

the backing plate.

6. Install the primary shoe to an-

chor spring (Fig. 15).

H1391-A

FIG. 75—Retracting Spring

Installation

7.
Install the cable guide on the

secondary shoe web with the flanged

hole fitted into the hole in the second-

ary shoe web. Thread the cable

around the cable guide groove (Fig.

8).

It
is
imperative that
the
cable
be

positioned
in
this groove
and not be-

tween
the
guide
and the
shoe
web.

8.
Install the secondary shoe to an-

chor spring with the tool shown in

Fig. 15.

Be certain that
the
cable
eye is not

cocked
or
binding
on the
anchor
pin

when installed.
All
parts should
be
flat

on
the
anchor
pin.
Remove
the
brake

cylinder clamp.

9. Apply high-temperature grease

(MIC-100-A) to the threads and the

socket end of the adjusting screw.

Turn the adjusting screw into the ad-

justing pivot nut to the limit of the

threads and then back off 1/2 turn.

Interchanging
the
brake shoe
ad-

justing screw assemblies from
one
side

of
the
vehicle
to the
other would cause

the brake shoes
to
retract rather than

expand each time
the
automatic
ad-

justing mechanism operated.
To pre-

vent installation on the wrong side of

the vehicle, the socket end of the ad-

justing screw is stamped with an R or

L (Fig. 16). The adjusting pivot nuts

can be distinguished by the number of

grooves machined around the body of

the nut. Two grooves on the nut indi-

cate a right thread; one groove indi-

cates a left thread.
10.
Place the adjusting socket on

the screw and install this assembly be-

tween the shoe ends with the adjusting

screw toothed wheel nearest the sec-

ondary shoe.

11.
Hook the cable hook into the

hole in the adjusting lever. The adjust-

ing levers are stamped with an R or L

to indicate their installation on right

or left brake assembly (Fig. 16).

12.
Position the hooked end of the

ADJUSTING LEVER

IDENTIFICATION LINES

H1143-C

FIG. 16—Adjusting Screw
and

Lever Identification

adjuster spring completely into the

large hole in the primary shoe web.

The last coil of the spring should be at

the edge of the hole. Connect the loop

end of the spring to the adjuster lever

hole.

13.
Pull the adjuster lever, cable

and automatic adjuster spring down

and toward the rear to engage the

pivot hook in the large hole in the sec-

ondary shoe web (Fig. 8).

14.
After installation, check the ac-

tion of the adjuster by pulling the sec-

tion of the cable between the cable

guide and the anchor pin toward the

secondary shoe web far enough to lift

the lever past a tooth on the adjusting

screw wheel. The lever should snap

into position behind the next tooth,

and release of the cable should cause

the adjuster spring to return the lever

to its original position. This return ac-

tion of the lever will turn the adjusting

screw.one tooth.

If pulling the cable does not pro-

duce the action described, or if the

lever action is sluggish instead of posi-

tive and sharp, check the position of

the lever on the adjusting screw

toothed wheel. With the brake in a

vertical position (anchor at the top),

the lever should contact the adjusting

wheel 3/16 inch (plus or minus 1/32

inch) above the centerline of the

screw. If the contact point is below

this centerline, the lever will not lock

on the teeth in the adjusting screw

wheel, and the screw will not be turned
as the lever is actuated by the cable.

To determine the cause of this con-

dition:

a. Check the cable end fittings. The

cable should completely fill or extend

slightly beyond the crimped section of

the fittings. If it does not meet this

specification, possible damage is indi-

cated and the cable assembly should

be replaced.

b.
Check the cable length. On

Ford, Mercury, Meteor, Thunderbird,

Continental Mark III, and Lincoln

Continental models, the cable should

measure 11 1/8 inches (plus or minus

1/64 inch) from the end of the cable

anchor to the end of the cable hook.

On Fairlane, Montego, Falcon,

Mustang, and Cougar models the

cable should measure 8 13/32 inches

on 9 inch brakes or 9 3/4 inches on

10 inch brakes from the end of the

cable anchor to the end of the cable

hook.

c. Check the cable guide for dam-

age.
The cable groove should be paral-

lel to the shoe web, and the body of

the guide should lie flat against the

web.
Replace the guide if it shows

damage.

d. Check the pivot hook on the

lever. The hook surfaces should be

square with the body of the lever for

proper pivoting. Replace the lever if

the hook shows damage.

e. See that the adjusting; screw

socket is properly seated in the notch

in the shoe web.

WHEEL CYLINDER

DRUM BRAKE

REMOVAL '

1.
Remove the wheel and the drum.

2.
Remove the brake shoe assem-

blies,
following procedures outlined in

this section.

3.
Disconnect the brake line from

the brake cylinder Figs. 17 thru 21.

On
a
vehicle with
a
vacuum brake

booster,
be
sure
the
engine
is
stopped

and there
is no
vacuum
in the
booster

system before disconnecting
the hy-

draulic lines.

To disconnect the hose at a front

cylinder, loosen the tube fitting that

connects the opposite end of the hose

to the brake tube at a bracket on the

frame. Remove the horseshoe-type re-

taining clip from the hose and brack-

et, disengage the hose from the brack-

et, then unscrew the entire hose as-

sembly from the front wheel cylinder.

At a rear cylinder, unscrew the tubeprocarmanuals.com

02-02-25
Brake System

02-02-25

clearing the pin. Slide the switch com-

pletely onto the pin, and install the

nylon washer as shown in Figs. 29

thru 33. Be careful not to bend or de-

form the switch. Secure these parts to

the pin with the hairpin retainer. Con-

nect the stop light switch wires to the

connector, and install the wires in the

retaining clip.

BRAKE PEDAL

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

Removal

1.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

2.
Remove the hairpin retainer.

Slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin,

and then lift the switch straight up-

ward from the pin. Be careful not to

damage the switch during removal.

Slide the master cylinder or booster

push rod and the nylon washers and

bushing off the brake pedal pin (Figs.

26 and 29).

3.
Remove the hairpin type retainer

and washer from the brake pedal

shaft, then remove the shaft, the brake

pedal and the bushings from the pedal

support bracket.

Installation

1.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 En-

gine oil to the bushings and locate

bushings in their proper places on the

pedal assembly and pedal support

bracket (Figs. 26 and 29).

2.
Position the brake pedal assem-

bly to the support bracket, then install

the pedal shaft through the support

bracket and brake pedal assembly. In-

stall the retainer.

3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the nylon washer as

shown in Figs. 26 and 29. Be careful

not to bend or deform the switch. Se-

cure these parts to the pin with the

hairpin retainer.

4.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.
5.
Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements,

Part 2-1, Section 1.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO AND

FALCON—MANUAL-SHIFT

TRANSMISSION

Removal

1.
Remove the clutch pedal assist

spring.

2.
Disconnect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod at the clutch pedal by

removing the retainer and bushing.

3.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

4.
Remove the switch retainer, and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.

5. Slide the master cylinder or

booster push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Figs. 27 and 30).

6. Remove the self-locking pin and

washer from the clutch and brake

pedal shaft, then remove the clutch

pedal and shaft assembly, the brake

pedal assembly, and the bushings from

the pedal support bracket (Figs. 27

and 30).

Installation

1.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

bushings in their proper places on the

clutch and brake pedal assemblies.

2.
Position the brake pedal to the

support bracket, then install the clutch

pedal and shaft assembly through the

support bracket and brake pedal as-

sembly. Install the spring clip (Figs.

27 and 30).

3.
Install the clutch pedal assist

spring.

4.
Connect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod to the clutch pedal

assembly with the bushing and the

spring clip retainer. Apply SAE 10

engine oil to the bushing.

5.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the outer nylon washer

as shown in Figs. 27 and 30. Secure

these parts to the pin with the
self-

locking pin.
6. Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires to the retaining clip.

7.
Adjust the clutch pedal free play

(Group 5) to specification, if required.

8. Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements

(Part 2-1, Section 1).

MUSTANG AND COUGAR—

MANUAL-SHIFT

TRANSMISSION

Removal

1.
Disconnect the battery ground

cable from the battery.

2.
Remove the steering column.

Refer to Part 3-4, Section 2 for pro-

cedure.

3.
On non-power brakes, remove

the two cap screws retaining the mas-

ter cylinder to the dash panel and re-

move the two cap screws retaining the

brake pedal support bracket to the

dash panel. On power brakes remove

the two cap screws retaining the

booster to the dash panel.

4.
Working inside the vehicle, se-

cure the clutch pedal against the

bumper stop with a small C-clamp as

shown in Figs. 28 and 31.

5.
Disconnect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod at the clutch pedal by

removing the retainer and bushing.

6. Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

7.
Remove the switch retainer and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.
Remove the master cylinder or

booster push rod, bushing and nylon

washer from the brake pedal pin.

8. Remove the screw retaining the

pedal support bracket to the top inner

cowl bracket (Figs. 28 and 31).

9. Remove the two sheet metal

screws retaining the pedal support

bracket to the dash panel. On power

brakes remove the nuts from the

brake booster studs.

10.
Remove the two screws retain-

ing the pedal support bracket to the

upper cowl brace and lower the pedal

support bracket away from the steer-

ing column studs.

11.
Remove the pedal support

bracket assembly from the vehicle.

12.
Position the pedal and support

bracket assembly in a vise.

13.
Remove the C-clamp to release

the clutch pedal from its bumper stop

and pivot the pedal away from the

bumper.procarmanuals.com

02-02-27
Brake System

02-02-27

4.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.

5.
Torque the booster mounting

nuts to specifications.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Disconnect the battery ground

cable from the battery.

2.
It is necessary to obtain clear-

ance to remove vacuum hoses and the

electrical connector to the temperature

heat control box. Remove the two

screws retaining the relay to the fend-

er and push the relay aside. Discon-

nect the vacuum hoses and connector

at the heat control box.

3.
Working under the instrument

panel, disconnect the vacuum hoses,

wires and retaining clip from the tem-

perature heat control box. Remove the

two screws securing the temperature

control box to the dash panel.

4.
Remove the lower control hous-

ing retaining screws (6). Disconnect

the wire harnesses at the lower control

panel and place the panel aside. Re-

move the wire harness shield. Remove

the wire harness clip. Position the

wire harness aside. Remove the tem-

perature control box and position it

aside.

5.
Remove the hair-pin type retain-

er. Slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Lift the switch upward from the pin.

Slide the master cylinder push rod,

nylon washers and bushing off the

brake pedal pin.

6. Remove the pivot bolt and nut

that holds the pedal to the pedal sup-

port bracket. Remove the brake pedal

assembly from the support bracket

and remove the bushings.

7.
If required, remove the brake

pedal pad retaining nuts and remove

the brake pedal pad.

Installation

1.
If the brake pedal pad was re-

moved, position the pad on the pedal.

Install the pad retaining nuts and tor-

que them to specification.

2.
Apply SAE 10 engine oil to the

bushings and locate all the bushings in

their proper places on the pedal as-

sembly.

3.
Install the brake pedal assembly

and bushings to the support bracket,

and then install the pivot bolt through
the support bracket and pedal assem-

bly. Install the pivot bolt nut and tor-

que it to specification.

4.
Install the inner nylon washer,the

master cylinder push rod link, and the

bushing on the brake pedal pin. Posi-

tion the switch so that it straddles the

push rod link with the switch slot on

the pedal and the switch outer hole

just clearing the pin. Install the outer

nylon washer as shown in Fig. 33. In-

stall the hair-pin type retainer on the

brake pedal pin.

5.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.

6. Position the wire harness and

clip on the temperature control box

and install the retaining screw. Posi-

tion the temperature control box to

the dash panel and install the two re-

taining bolts.

7.
Connect the vacuum lines and

the electrical connector to the control

box. Position the wire harness to the

control box and install the retaining

clip.

8. Position the wire harness shield

and install two retaining bolts.

9. Connect the wire harnesses to

the lower control panel and install the

retaining screws.

10.
Working within the engine

compartment, connect the wire con-

nector to the temperature heat control

box.

11.
Position the relay to the fender

apron and install the retaining bolts.

12.
Connect the ground cable to the

battery.

13.
Check the brakes and light

switch for proper operation. Close the

hood.

PARKING BRAKE CONTROL

ASSEMBLY

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

Removal

Refer to Fig. 34.

1.
Make sure the parking brake is

fully released.

2.
Remove all tension from the rear

cables by backing off the adjusting nut

from the equalizer.

3.
Remove the roll pin that secures

the release knob to the cable and re-

move the knob.

4.
Remove the nut that secures the

release cable to the instrument panel
and remove the cable from the rear of

the instrument panel.

5.
Remove the two nuts attaching

the control assembly to the dash

panel.

6. Remove the cap screw attaching

the control assembly to the cowl side

bracket.

7.
Disconnect the hose to the park-

ing brake vacuum unit, if so equipped.

8. Remove the front cable assembly

retainer clip from the cable assembly

and disconnect the cable ball from the

control clevis.

9. Remove the control assembly

from the vehicle.

Installation

1.
Position the control assembly in

the vehicle.

2.
Fit the cable assembly through

its mounting hole and install the re-

taining clip. Connect the cable ball to

the control clevis.

3.
Connect the vacuum hose to the

parking brake unit, if so equipped.

4.
Install the attaching cap screw to

the cowl side bracket. Do not tighten.

5.
Install the two control assemb-

ly-to-dash panel nuts. Tighten the nuts

and the cap screw to specifications.

6. Insert the release cable into the

instrument panel and install the re-

taining nut.

7.
Install the release knob on the

cable with the roll pin.

8. Check the operation of the park-

ing brake. Adjust the parking brake

as required.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO

AND FALCON

Removal

Refer to Fig. 35.

1.
Make sure the parking brake is

completely released.

2.
Remove all tension from the rear

cables by backing off the jam nut and

adjusting nut from the equalizer.

3.
Working inside the vehicle, re-

move the four bolts and one nut re-

taining the left air vent and cable as-

sembly to the dash and instrument

panels. Remove the vent assembly.

4.
Remove the parking brake front

cable ball retaining clip from the clev-

is.

5.
Disconnect the cable ball from

the notch in the brake clevis.

6. Remove the three screws that at-

tach the control assembly to the left

cowl inner side panel.procarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-09

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball

joint.

LOWER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental

and Continental Mark III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place

jacks under the lower arms as shown

in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower

ball joints.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-

cribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

lower arm and position the indicator

so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the lower ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball

joint.

Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,

Montego, Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the lower end of the

spindle and the lower arm.

4.
Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the lower

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the lower arm.

During the foregoing check, the

upper ball joint will be unloaded and

may move. Disregard all such move-

ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do

not mistake loose wheel bearings for a

worn ball joint.

POWER STEERING GEAR

CLEANING

Disassembly and assembly of the

steering gear and. the sub-assemblies

must be made on a clean workbench.

As in repairing any hydraulically op-

erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

unit with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid as possible. Handle all

parts very carefully to avoid nicks,

burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could

make the parts unfit for use.

Do not clean, wash or soak seals in

cleaning solvent.

INSPECTION

1.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the cover for wear. If worn,

replace the cover.

2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing

for cracked races and the balls for

looseness, wear, pitting, end play or

other damage. Check the fit of the

bearing on the input shaft. Replace

the bearing, if required.

3.
Inspect the valve housing for

wear, scoring or burrs.

4.
Inspect the tube seats in the

pressure and return ports in the valve

body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-

move and replace.

5.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the housing for wear. If

worn, replace the bushing or the hous-

ing.

6. Check all fluid passages for ob-

struction or leakage.

7.
Inspect the steering gear housing

for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-

ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-

ton bore of the housing for scoring or

wear. If necessary, replace the hous-

ing.

8. Check the input shaft bearing

after installation to be sure that it ro-

tates freely.

9. If the valve spool is not free in

the valve housing, check for burrs at

the outward edges of the working

lands in the housing and remove with

a hard stone. Check the valve spool

for burrs and if burrs are found, stone

the valve in a radial direction only.

Check for freedom of the valve again.

10.
Check the piston rack teeth and

sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.

FLUSHING THE POWER

STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Should it be necessary to replace an

inoperative power steering pump, the

need for flushing the steering system

is required when installing the new

pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump

and remove the pulley as outlined in

Part 3-10.

2.
Install the pulley on a new

pump. Install the pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump

(Part 3-10).

3.
Place the fluid return line in a

suitable container and plug the reser-

voir return pipe.

4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant

(C1AZ-19582-A).

5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-

vent the engine from starting and raise

the front wheels off the ground.

6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being poured

into the reservoir, turn the engine over

using the ignition key, at the same

time cycle the steering wheel from

stop to stop.

7.
As soon as all of the lubricant

has been poured in, turn off the igni-

tion key, and attach the coil wire.

8. Remove the plug from the reser-

voir return pipe, and attach the return

hose to the reservoir.

9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if

low, add fluid to the proper level. Do

not overfill.

10.
Lower the vehicle.

11.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering from stop to stop to expel

any trapped air from the system.

POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL

EXCEPT LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

CLEANING

Wash all parts (except seals) in a

Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent

and dry with compressed air.

Punch or Rod

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

G1607-A

FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com

03-02-16
Suspension

03-02-16

2.
Place a jack under the outer end

of the arm.

3.
Tape the upper and lower spring

insulators to the spring.

4.
Compress the coil spring with

Tool 5310-A (Fig. 23) and place the

spring and insulators in position. Be

sure both ends of the spring are prop-

erly seated, and raise the arm. Guide

the spindle boss over the ball joint

stud.

5.
Install the ball joint stud retain-

ing nut and torque it to specification.

Continue tightening the nut to line up

the cotter pin hole. Install a new cot-

ter pin.

6. Connect the stabilizer bar to the

lower arm. Torque the nut to specifi-

cation.

7.
Connect the drag strut to the

lower arm. Torque the nuts to specifi-

cation.

8. Install the shock absorber.

9. Tighten the splash shield attach-

ing bolts to specifications.

10.
Install the hub and rotor on the

spindle and adjust the wheel bearings.

11.
Install the caliper to the spindle

and tighten the attaching bolts to

specifications. Check for the correct

flexible hose routing (Part 2-2).

12.
Install the wheel and tire on the

hub.
Torque the wheel lug nuts to

specifications and remove the support

stands.

13.
With the front end weight of

the car on the wheels, torque the

lower arm-to-crossmember bolt at-

taching nut to specification.

FRONT SUSPENSION

LOWER ARM

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Removal

1.
Raise the front of the vehicle and

position safety stands under both sides

of the frame just back of the lower

arms.

2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel

cover.

3.
If equipped with drum type

brakes—Remove the wheel and tire

and brake drum as an assembly. Re-

move the brake backing plate attach-

ing bolts and remove the backing

plate from the spindle. Wire the back-

ing plate to the underbody to prevent

damage to the brake hose.

4.
If equipped with disc brakes-

—Remove the wheel and tire from the
•Tool—5310-A

F 1491-A

FIG. 23—Coil Spring Compressed

for Installation

F1437-A

FIG. 24—Removing Front Spring

—Lower Arm Replacement

hub.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that

attach the caliper and brake hose to

the spindle. Remove the caliper from

the rotor and wire it to the underbody

to prevent damage to the brake hose.

Then, remove the hub and rotor from

the spindle.

5.
Disconnect the lower end of the

shock absorber, and push it up to the

retracted position.

6. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link

from the lower arm.

7.
Remove the cotter pins from the

upper and lower ball joint stud nuts.

8. Remove 2 bolts and nuts attach-

ing the strut to the lower arm.

9. Loosen the lower ball joint stud

nut one or two turns. Do not remove

the nut from the stud at this time.

10.
Install Tool T57P-3OO6-A bet-

ween the upper and lower ball joint

studs (Fig. 7). The tool should be

seated firmly against the ends of both

studs and not against the stud nuts.

11.
With a wrench, turn the adapter

screw until the tool places the stud

under tension. Tap the spindle near

the lower stud with a hammer to loos-
en the stud in the spindle. Do not

loosen the stud from the spindle with

tool pressure only.

12.
Position a floor jack under the

lower arm (Fig. 24) and remove the

lower ball joint stud nut.

13.
Lower the floor jack and re-

move the sprina and insulator (Fie.

25).

14.
Remove one nut and bolt at-

taching the lower control arm to the

No.
2 crossmember and remove the

lower arm (Fig. 24).

Installation

1.
Position the lower arm to the

No.
2 crossmember and loosely install

the attaching bolt and nut (Fig. 1).

2.
Position the spring and insulator

to the upper spring pad and lower

arm. Using a floor jack, compress the

spring and guide the lower ball joint

stud into the spindle hole.

3.
Install the ball joint stud attach-

ing nut and torque to specification.

Continue to tighten the nut until the

cotter pin hole is in line with the nut

slots.
Install a cotter pin in the upper

and lower ball joint studs.

4.
Pull the shock absorber down

and connect it to the lower arm.

5.
Position the strut and bumper to

the lower arm. Install the attaching

bolts and nuts and torque to specifica-

tion.

6. Torque the lower arm to No. 2

crossmember attaching bolt and nut to

specifications.

7.
Position the stabilizer bar link to

the lower arm and install the attach-

ing nuts.

8. If equipped with drum type

brakes—Position the brake backing

plate to the spindle and install the at-

taching bolts. Torque the bolts to spe-

cification. Adjust the brakes as out-

lined in Group 2. Install the wheel,

tire,
and drum to the spindle and ad-

just the wheel bearings as outlined in

Part 3-12.

If equipped with disc brakes-Install

the hub and rotor on the spindle.

Position the caliper over the rotor and

install the attaching bolts. Torque the

bolts to specification. Install the

wheel and tire on the wheel hub and

adjust the wheel bearings as outlined in

Part 3-12.

9. Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

10.
Remove the safety stands and'

lower the vehicle.

11.
Check the caster, camber, and

toe-in and adjust as required (Section

2,
Part 3-1).procarmanuals.com

03-02-18
Suspension

03-02-18

5.
Remove the cotter pin from the

upper ball joint stud nut.

6. Loosen the upper ball joint stud

nut one or two turns. Do not remove

the nut from the stud at this time.

7.
Install tool T57P-3006-A be-

tween the upper and lower ball joint

studs with the adapter screw on top

(Fig. 13). The tool should be seated

firmly against the ends of both studs

and not against the nuts or lower stud

cotter pin.

8. With a wrench, turn the adapter

screw until the tool places the stua

under tension. Tap the spindle near

the upper stud with a hammer to loos-

en the stud in the spindle. Do not

loosen the stud from the spindle with

tool pressure only.

9. Remove the tool from between

the ball joint studs and place a floor

jack under the lower arm.

10.
Raise the floor jack to relieve

the pressure from the upper ball joint

stud nut and remove the nut.

11.
Remove the upper arm inner

shaft attaching bolts. Remove the

upper arm and inner shaft as an as-

sembly (Fig. 1).

12.
Remove the bumpei from the

upper arm.

Installation

1.
Position the bumper to the upper

arm and install the nut and washer.

Torque the nut to specifications.

2.
Position the upper arm inner

shaft to the frame side rail and install

the 2 attaching bolts and washers

snug.

3.
Connect the upper ball joint stud

to the spindle and install the attaching

nut. Torque the nut to specification

and continue to tighten the nut until

the cotter pin hole in the stud is in

line with the nut slots. Then, install

the cotter pin.

4.
If equipped with drum type bra-

kes—Adjust the brakes as outlined in

Part 2-2. Install the wheel, tire, and

drum to the spindle and adjust the

wheel bearings as outlined in Part

3-12.

5.
If equipped with disc brak-

es—Install the wheel and tire on the

hub and adjust the wheel bearings as

outlined in Part 3-12.

6. Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

7.
Remove the safety stands and

lower the front of the vehicle.

8. Check caster, camber, and toe-in

and adjust as required (Section 2, Part

3-D.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

Removal

1.
Raise the front of the vehicle,

position safety stands under the

frame, and lower the vehicle slightly.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the shock absorber

lower attaching nuts and washers.

4.
Remove the shock absorber

upper mounting bracket attaching

nuts,
and remove the shock absorber

and bracket as an assembly (Fig. 26).

On all 8-cylinder vehicles, remove

the air cleaner to obtain access for

tool installation.

5.
Install the spring compressor

tool and compress the spring (Figs.

19,
20 and 21).

6. Position a safety stand under the

lower arm.

7.
Remove the cotter pin from the

nut on the upper ball joint stud, and

loosen the nut one or two turns. Do

not remove the nut from the stud at

this time.

8. Position the ball joint remover

tool between the upper and lower ball

joint studs as shown in Fig. 10. The

tool should seat firmly against the

ends of both studs and not against the

stud nuts.

9. Turn the tool with a wrench until

the tool places the studs under consid-

erable tension; then, hit the spindle

smartly near the upper stud with a

hammer to break the stud loose in the

spindle. Do not loosen the stud in the

spindle with tool pressure only. If

both arms are being removed, loosen

the lower stud in the same manner as

the upper stud.

10.
Remove the nut from the upper

stud and lift the stud out of the

spindle.

11.
Remove the upper arm inner

shaft attaching nuts from the engine

compartment, and remove the upper

arm.

12.
Wipe off all loose dirt from the

upper arm parts. Do not wash the ball

joint with a solvent.

Installation

1.
Position the upper arm on the

underbody mounting bracket, and in-

stall the nuts and lock washers on the

two inner shaft attaching bolts. The

specified keystone-type lock washers

must be used. Torque the nuts to

soecification.
2.
Position the upper ball joint stud

in the top of the wheel spindle, and in-

stall the stud nut. Torque the nut to

specification, and continue to tighten

it until the cotter pin hole and slots

line up. Install a new cotter pin.

3.
Release the coil spring, remove

the tool, and install the front shock

absorber and the wheel and tire.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Place a jack under the outer end

of the suspension lower arm and raise

the arm. Refer to Fig. 22.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the cotter pin from the

upper ball joint stud. Loosen the nut

one or two turns.

4.
Place a box wrench over the

lower end of the ball joint remover

tool, and position the tool as in Fig.

13.
The tool should seat firmly against

the ends of both studs, and not

against the upper stud nut.

5.
Turn the wrench until both studs

are under tension, and then, tap the

spindle with a hammer near the upper

stud to loosen it from the spindle. Do

not loosen the stud with tool pressure

alone. Remove the nut.

UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET

LOWER RETAINING BOLTS F 1490-A

FIG. 26—Removing or Installing

Front Shock Absorber—Typicalprocarmanuals.com

04-01-07
General Axle Service

04-01-07

Tool-4201-
C

Tool-6565 USED WITH BRACKET

FROM Too/^*207-C

FLANGE

E1743-A
procedure under Backlash and Differ-

ential Bearing Preload Adjustments.

If the tooth pattern indicates a change

in shim thickness, follow the proce-

dure under Pinion Location.

REMOVABLE CARRIER

TYPE AXLE

The shim location for the removable

carrier type axle is between the pinion

retainer and the carrier (Fig. 13).

When adjusting this type carrier re-

ducing shim thickness will move the

pinion toward the ring gear; increas-

ing shim thickness will move the pi-

nion away from the ring gear (Fig.

13).

FIG. 11—Checking Companion Flange Lateral Runout—

Thunderbird and Continental Mark III
INTEGRAL CARRIER

TYPE AXLE

8. If the runout is still excessive, re-

place the companion flange and check

the runout. If necessary, rotate the

new flange on the pinion shaft until an

acceptable runout is obtained.

If excessive runout is still evident

after replacement of the companion

flange, it will be necessary to replace

the ring and pinion gear, and repeat

the above checks until runout is within

specifications.

9. Install the driveshaft assembly

(Group 5).

PINION LOCATION

ADJUSTMENT

BACKLASH

ADJUSTMENT,

LEFT

ADJUSTING

NUT

E1476-A

FIG. 12—Pinion and Ring Gear

Tooth Contact Adjustment
—

Integral Carrier Type Axles
PINION AND RING GEAR

TOOTH CONTACT

ADJUSTMENT

Two separate adjustments affect pin-

ion and ring gear tooth contact.

They are pinion location and backlash

(Figs.
12 and 13).

Individual differences in matching

the differential housing and the gear

set require the use of shims to locate

the pinion for correct contact with the

ring gear.

When adjusting either type axle,

shim thickness should be increased or

reduced only as indicated by the tooth

pattern check described in the fore-

going Section 1.

If the tooth pattern check indicates

a change in backlash only, follow the

PINION

LOCATION

ADJUSTMENT

SHIMS

LEFT

ADJUSTING

NUT
RIGHT

ADJUSTING

BACKLASH NUT

ADJUSTMENT El 409-A

FIG. 13—Pinion and Ring Gear

Tooth Contact Adjustment—

Removable Carrier Axles
The shim location for the integral

carrier type axle, is between the pi-

nion gear and the pinion rear bearing

cone (Fig. 12). When adjusting this

type axle, increasing shim thickness

moves the pinion toward the ring

gear; reducing shim thickness moves

the pinion away from the ring gear

(Fig. 12).

BACKLASH AND DIFFERENTIAL

BEARING PRELOAD

ADJUSTMENTS (ALL AXLES)

On a Light-Duty (WER) Axle, it is

necessary to remove the rear axle

shafts prior to performing the adjust-

ment procedures. Refer to Rear Axle

Shaft Wheel Bearing and Oil Seal Re-

placement—Light-Duty (WER), Axle,

Part 4-4, Section 2.

To secure a more uniform control

of differential side bearing preload in

service repairs, a dial indicator set-up

such as shown in Fig. 12 is used.

In both types of axle (Fig. 11 and

12),
the ring gear is moved away from

or toward the pinion as described in

the following procedure.

1.
Remove the adjusting nut locks,

loosen the differential bearing cap

bolts,
then torque the bolts to 15 ft-lbs

on integral carrier type axle; 20 ft-lbs

on removable carrier type axles before

making adjustments.

2.
The left adjusting nut is on the

ring gear side of the carrier. The right

nut is on the pinion side. Loosen the

right nut until it is away from the cup.

Tighten the left nut until the ring gear

is just forced into the pinion with

0.000 backlash then rotate the pinion

several revolutions to be sure no bind-

ing is evident. (Recheck the right nutprocarmanuals.com