1969 FORD MUSTANG oil pressure

02-02-07
Brake System

02-02-07

ANTI-SKID CONTROL SYSTEM

RELEASE PAWL CAM PIN

RELEASE PAWL CAM LEVER

RELEASE CABLE

H
1636-
A

FIG. 10—Parking Brake Control Assembly

With Manual Release—Typical

power unit with mounting bracket is

riveted to the control assembly. The

vacuum actuated piston within the

unit is connected by a rod to the

upper end of the release lever (Fig. 9).

The lower end of the release lever ex-

tends out for alternate manual release
in the event of vacuum power failure

or for optional manual release at any

time.

Hoses connect the power unit and

the engine manifold to a vacuum re-

lease valve in the transmission neutral

safety switch.
The anti-skid control system con-

sists of three major components (Fig.

39).
Mechanically driven electromag-

netic sensors at each rear wheel; an

electronic control module mounted

under the glove box; a vacuum pow-

ered actuator attached to a bracket on

the inside of the right front frame rail

under the toe board.

The sensors consist of steel rings

having teeth on their outer diameters,

pressed on each axle shaft just out-

board of the wheel bearing. The teeth

rotate past corresponding teeth on the

inside diameter of stationary steel

rings mounted in the bearing retain-

ers.
Also mounted in the retainers, are

ring-shaped permanent magnets and

coils of wire. Two wires from each

sensor connect the sensors to the con-

trol module.

The control module consists of solid

state electronic components sealed in

a container. It is connected to the sen-

sors and to a solenoid on the actuator.

The actuator is similar to a vacuum

brake booster and consists of three

parts.
A chamber divided by a vacuum

suspended diaphragm; a hydraulic cyl-

inder connected to the diaphragm; and

a solenoid connected electrically to the

control module.

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

After any brake service work, ob-

tain a firm brake pedal before moving

the vehicle. Riding the brake pedal

(common on left foot application)

should be avoided when driving the

vehicle.

BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENTS—

DRUM BRAKES

The hydraulic drum brakes are

self-adjusting and require a manual

adjustment only after the brake shoes

have been relined, replaced, or when

the length of the adjusting screw has

been changed while performing some

other service operation. The manual

adjustment is performed with the

drums removed, using the tool and the

procedure detailed below.

When adjusting the rear brake

shoes,
check the parking brake cables

for proper adjustment. Make sure that

the equalizer operates freely.
To adjust the brake shoes:

1.
Use Rotunda Tool HRE 8650,

(Fig. 11) to determine the inside diam-

eter of the drum braking surface.

2.
Reverse the tool as shown in Fig.

11 and adjust the brake shoe diameter

to fit the gauge. Hold the automatic

adjusting lever out of engagement

while rotating the adjusting screw, to

prevent burring the screw slots. Make

sure the adjusting screw rotates freely.

If necessary, lubricate the adjusting

screw threads with a thin, uniform

coating of MIC-100-A.

3.
Rotate Tool HRE 8650 around

the brake shoes to be sure of the set-

ting.

4.
Apply a small quantity of high

temperature grease to the points

where the shoes contact the backing

plate, being careful not to get the lu-

bricant on the linings.

5. Install the drums. Install Tinner-

man nuts and tighten securely.

6. Install the wheels on the drums
and tighten the nuts to specification.

7.
Complete the adjustment by

applying the brakes several times with

a minimum of 50 lbs pressure on the

pedal while backing the vehicle. After

each stop the vehicle must be moved

forward.

8. After the brake shoes have been

properly adjusted, check the operation

of the brakes by making several stops

while operating in a forward direction.

WHEEL CYLINDER REPAIR-

DRUM BRAKE

Wheel cylinders should not be di-

sassembled unless they are leaking or

unless new cups and boots are to be

installed. It is not necessary to remove

the brake cylinder from the backing

plate to disassemble, inspect, or hone

and overhaul the cylinder. Removal is

necessary only when the cylinder is

damaged or scored beyond repair.procarmanuals.com

02-02-18

Brake System

02-02-18

the brake hose connector
and
bracket

assembly.

3.
Remove
the two
bolts retaining

the brake hose bracket
and
caliper
as-

sembly
to the
spindle. Take care
to

avoid loosening
the
bridge bolts that

hold
the two
halves
of the
caliper
to-

gether.

4.
Lift
the
caliper assembly
off the

rotor
and
place
it on the
bench.

Installation

1.
If the
caliper assembly
is to be

replaced, transfer
the
steel tubing
and

the bleeder screw
to the new
caliper.

2.
Position
the
caliper assembly
on

the rotor,
and
mate
the
mounting bolt

holes
in the
caliper with those
in the

spindle.
It may be
necessary
to
push

the caliper pistons into
the
cylinder

bores
to
obtain clearance between
the

shoe
and
lining assembly
and the

rotor.
The
shoe
and
lining assemblies

should
be
seated properly
on the

bridges.

3.
Install
the
caliper
to
spindle
re-

taining bolts
and
torque them
to
spec-

ification. Check
to
insure that
the

rotor runs squarely
and
centrally
be-

tween
the two
halves
of the
caliper.

These should
be
approximately 0.090-

0.120 inch clearance between
the
cali-

per
and the
rotor outside diameter

(Fig.
6).

4.
Position
the
steel transfer tube

brake hose bracket
and
caliper assem-

bly
to the
spindle. Install
the
retaining

bolts then torque them
to
specifica-

tion.

5.
Connect
the
front wheel steel

transfer tube from
the
caliper
to the

front brake hose connector. Check
the

hose
for
proper installation
(Fig. 21).

6. Bleed
the
brake system
and cen-

tralize
the
differential valve
as out-

lined
in
Part
2-1.
Check
the
master

cylinder fluid level
and add the
speci-

fied fluid,
as
required. Pump
the

brake pedal several times
to
actuate

the piston seals
and to
position
the

shoe
and
lining assemblies.

7.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire assem-

bly
and the
wheel cover.

8. Road test
the
vehicle.

DISC BRAKE SHOE
AND

LINING

ALL MODELS EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from
the
hub and
rotor assembly.

2.
Remove
the
caliper from
the ve-

hicle following
the
procedures outlined

under Disc Brake Caliper Assembly.

3.
To
facilitate removal
of the
cali-

per assemblies,
the
piston
may
have
to

be pushed into
its
bore. Apply
a

steady inward pressure against
the

inner shoe
and
lining assembly. Main-

tain
the
pressure
for at
least
a
minute.

4.
Slide
the two
outer shoe retain-

ing clips
off the
retaining pins
(Fig.

23).

5.
Remove
the two
retaining pins

from
the
outer shoe, then remove
the

shoe from
the
stationary caliper.

6. Slide
the
inner brake shoe
out-

ward until
it is
free
of the
hold-down

springs, then remove
the
brake shoe.

7.
Remove
the
caliper locating pins

and stabilizer attaching bolts, then
re-

move
and
discard
the
stabilizer
or sta-

bilizers.

8. Remove
the
locating
pin
insula-

tors from
the
anchor plate.

Installation

When installing
new
shoes
and lin-

ings
it
will
be
necessary
to
force
the

piston
to the
bottom
of its
bore.

Apply sufficient pressure
to
overcome

the grip
of the
piston seal
on the pis-

ton.

1.
Install
new
caliper locating
pin

insulators
in the
anchor plate.

2.
Position
the
caliper assembly
in

the anchor plate.

3.
Position
the new
stabilizer
or

stabilizers
and
install
the
caliper locat-

ing pins
to
engage approximately four

threads.

If
the
caliper locating pins
are
rust-

ed
or
corroded they should
be re-

placed.

Apply water
or
isopropyl alcohol
to

the caliper locating pins before instal-

lation.
Oil or
grease must
not be
used

on
the
locating pins.

4.
Position
the
outer brake shoe
on

the caliper
and
install
the two
retain-

ing pins
and
clips.

5.
Install
the
inner brake shoe
so

that
the
ears
of
shoe
are on top of the

anchor plate bosses
and
under
the

shoe hold-down springs.

6. Position
the
shoe
and
lining

assemblies
so
that
the
caliper assem-

bly
can be
placed over
the
rotor.
Ro-

tate
a
hammer handle between
the lin-

ings
to
reset
the
stabilizers.

7.
Install
the
caliper assembly over

the rotor
and on the
spindle. Install

the
two
caliper attaching bolts,
and

torque them
to
specifications.
The

upper bolt must
be
tightened first.
In-

stall
the
safety wire
and
twist
the
ends
at least five turns. Push
the
wire ends

against
the
spindle
to
avoid interfer-

ence with
the
brake hose
and the

steering stop.

8. With moderate pressure applied

to
the
brake pedal, torque
the
stabiliz-

er attaching screws
and
caliper locat-

ing pins
to
specification.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire
as-

sembly from
the hub and
rotor assem-

bly.
Be
careful
to
avoid damage
or in-

terference with
the
caliper splash

shield, bleeder screw fitting
or
transfer

tube.

2.
Remove
the two
bolts that retain

the caliper splash shield,
and
remove

the shield
(Fig. 4).

3.
To
facilitate removal
and
instal-

lation
of the
shoe
and
lining assem-

blies,
the
pistons must
be
pushed into

their bores. Apply
a
steady inward

pressure against each shoe
and
lining

assembly toward
its
respective caliper

housing
on
each side
of the
rotor
(Fig.

6).
Maintain
the
pressure
for at
least

a minute.
If the
pistons will
not go ifi

easily, force them
in
with water pump

pliers.

4.
Grasp
the
metal flange
on the

outer
end of the
shoe with
two
pairs

of pliers
and
pull
the
shoe
out of the

caliper (Fig.
25).

Installation

1.
Position
a new
shoe
and
lining

assembly
on
each side
of the
rotor
so

that
the
lining faces
the
rotor.
Be
sure

AB

AB

USE SECOND

PAIR
OF

PLIERS HERE

H 1651
A

FIG. 25—Removing Disc Brake

Shoe
and
Lining Assembly—

Lincoln Continentalprocarmanuals.com

02-02-20
Brake System

02-02-20

1.
Disconnect the stoplight switch

wires at the connector. Remove the

spring retainer. Slide the stop light

switch off the brake pedal pin just far

enough to clear the end of the pin,

then liftfthe switch straight upward

from the pin. Use care to avoid switch

damage during removal.

2.
Slide the master cylinder push

rod and the nylon washers and bush-

ings off the brake pedal pin.

3.
Remove the brake tube from the

primary and secondary outlet ports of

the master cylinder.

4.
Remove the cap screws and lock-

washers that secure the master cylin-

der to the dirSh panel and lift the cyl-

inder forward and upward from the

vehicle.

Installation

1.
Position the boot on the push

rod and secure the boot to the master

cylinder. Carefully insert the master

cylinder push rod and boot through

the dash panel opening and position

the master cylinder on the panel.

2.
Install the cap screws at the dash

panel and torque them to specifica-

tion.

3.
Coat the nylon bushings with

SAE 10W oil. Install the nylon wash-

er and bushing on the brake pedal pin.

4.
Position the stop light switch on

the brake pedal pin, install the nylon

bushing and washer and secure them

in position with the spring retainer.

5.
Connect the wires at the stop

light switch connector.

6. Connect the brake lines to the

master cylinder leaving the brake line

fittings loose.

7.
Fill the master cylinder with the

specified brake fluid to within 1/4

inch of the top of the dual reservoirs.

Use Ford Brake Fluid— Extra Heavy

Duty-Part Number C6AZ-19542-A

(ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent for all

drum brake applications. The extra

heavy duty brake system fluid is col-

ored blue for identification. Do not

mix low temperature brake fluids with

the specified fluid for the power disc

brake system.

8. Bleed the dual-master cylinder

and the primary and secondary brake

systems. Centralize the pressure dif-

ferential valve. Refer to Hydraulic

System Bleeding and Centralizing of

the Differential Valve, Part 2-1, Sec-

tion 2 for proper procedure.

9. Operate the brakes several times,

then check for external hydraulic

leaks.
FAIRLANE, MONTEGO,

FALCON, MUSTANG AND

COUGAR

Removal

Refer to Figs. 27 and 28.

1.
Working from inside the vehicle

below the instrument panel, disconnect

the master cylinder push rod from the

brake pedal assembly. The push rod

cannot be removed from the master

cylinder.

2.
Disconnect the stoplight switch

wires at the connector. Remove the

hairpin retainer. Slide the stop light

switch off the brake pedal pin just far

enough to clear the end of the pin,

then lift the switch straight upward

from the pin. Use care to avoid switch

damage during removal.

3.
Slide the master cylinder push

rod and the nylon washers and bush-

ings off the brake pedal pin.

4.
Remove the brake tubes from

the primary and secondary outlet

ports of the master cylinder.

5.
Remove the lock nuts or cap

screw and lockwashers that secure the

master cylinder to the dash panel and

lift the cylinder forward and upward

from the car.
Installation

Refer to Figs. 27 and 28.

1.
Position the boot on tie push

rod and secure the boot to the master

cylinder. Carefully insert the master

cylinder push rod and boot through

the dash panel opening.

2.
On Fairlane, Falcon or Montego

models, position the gasket and mas-

ter cylinder on the mounting studs on

the dash panel. Install the lock nuts

on the studs at the dash panel and

torque them to specification.

3.
On Mustang or Cougar models,

position the gasket and master cylin-

der on the dash panel. Install the re-

taining screws and torque them to

specification. Coat the nylon bushings

with SAE 10W oil. Install the nylon

washer and bushing on the brake

pedal pin.

4.
Position the stop light switch on

the brake pedal pin, install the nylon

bushing and washer and secure them

in position with the spring retainer.

5.
Connect the wires at the stop

light switch connector.

6. Connect the brake lines to the

master cylinder and tighten to speci-

fied torque.

7.
Fill the master cylinder with the

specified brake fluid to within 1/4

MASTER CYLINDER

IDENTIFICATION
UPPER STUD

SHAFT (AUTOf/lATIC

TRANSMISSION)

CLIP

BRAKE PEDAL

BUSHING SUPPORT

TUBE-2B253

TUBE-2A040
CLUTCH

PEDA_

LOWER STUD
STOP LITE

SWITCH

/ 13480

MASTER CYLINDER

PUSH ROD
BRAKE PEDAL

H 1556-C

FIG. 27—Dual Master Cylinder Installation—Non Power Brake

Fairlane, Montego, and Falconprocarmanuals.com

02-02-23
Brake System

02-02-23

BOOSTER ASSEMBLY- 2005

NUT-34444-S7

HOSE 2A047

MASTER CYLINDER

IDENTIFICATION

BRAKE TUBE-2263

BRAKE TUBE -2264

PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL

VALVE ASSEMBLY-2B257
BRAKE TUBE-2B255

H 15S3-B

FIG. 32—Master Cylinder Installation-

Thunderbird and Continental Mark III

FLUID LEVEL IN MASTER

CYLINDER MUST 3E FULL

TO 1/4 INCH FROM TOP
BUSH

SLEEVE

BOLT

BRAKE SWITCH

13480

NUT (4 REQUIRED) -55768-S2

WASHER"(4 REQUIRED) -44726-S8

BOOSTER

ASSEMBLY 2005

MASTER CYLINDER 2WO

HOSE-2A047

BUSHING DIP IN

S.A.E. 10W MOTOR OIL

BEFORE ASSEMBLY

PEDAL ASSEM6LY-2455

COVER

BRAKE TUBE-2A040

REAR BRAKE TUBE -2B329

PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL

VALVE ASSEMBLY-2B328

FRONT BRAKE TUBE-2B162

PROPORTIONING VALVE

MASTER CYLINDER

IDENTIFICATION

H 1530-C

FIG. 33—Master Cylinder Installation—Lincoln Continental
4.
Connect the shell-wire connector

to the brake warning lamp switch.

Make sure the plastic lugs on the con-

nector hold the connector securely to

the switch.

5. Bleed the brakes and centralize

the pressure differential valve.

PROPORTIONING VALVE

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

On Ford, Mercury and Meteor

models, the proportioning valve must

be removed with the pressure differen-

tial valve. Use the procedure shown

above for replacement of the propor-

tioning valve.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO

AND FALCON

Removal

Refer to Fig. 18.

1.
Disconnect the two brake lines at

the proportioning valve.

2.
Remove the bolt retaining the

pressure differential valve bracket to

the fender apron.

3.
Lift the proportioning valve

bracket from behind the pressure dif-

ferential valve bracket and remove the

proportioning valve from the vehicle.

Installation

1.
Position the proportioning valve

and bracket to the fender apron with

the proportioning valve bracket be-

tween the pressure differential valve

bracket and the fender apron.

2.
Connect the two brake lines at

the proportioning valve. Do not tight-

en.

3.
Install the bolt retaining the two

valve brackets to the fender apron.

4.
Tighten the two brake line tube

nuts at the proportioning valve to

specifications.

5.
Bleed the brakes and centralize

the pressure differential valve.

MUSTANG AND COUGAR

Removal

Refer to Fig. 19.

1.
Disconnect the two brake lines at

the proportioning valve.

2.
Remove the bolt retaining theprocarmanuals.com

02-02-41
Brake System

02-02-41

bolt and G-ring in the bottom of the

master cylinder.

8. Install the bleed screw (if so

equipped). Install the gasket (dia-

phragm) in the master cylinder filler

cover. Position the gasket as shown in

Figs.
40 and 41. Make sure the gasket

is securely seated.

9. Install the cover and gasket on

the master cylinder and secure the

cover into position with the retainer.

DISC BRAKE CALIPER

ALL MODELS EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the vehicle as outlined in Section

2.

2.
Remove the caliper locating pins

from the caliper assembly and lift the

anchor plate from the caliper.

3.
Slide the two outer shoe retain-

ing clips off the retaining pins (Fig.

43).

4.
Remove the two retaining pins,

then remove the outer brake shoe

from the caliper.

5.
Slide the inner brake shoe out-

ward until it is free of the hold-down

springs, then remove the brake shoe.

6. Apply air pressure to the fluid

port in the caliper with a rubber

tipped nozzle (Tool 7000-DD) as

shown in Fig. 44 to remove the piston.

Place a cloth over the piston before

applying air pressure to prevent dam-

age to the piston. If the piston is

seized and cannot be forced from the

FIBER

BLOCK

CALIPER

PISTON

H 1574-B

FIG. 44 —Removing Piston From

Caliper —
All
Models Except

Lincoln Continental
caliper, tap lightly around the piston

while applying air pressure. Care

should be taken because the piston

can develop considerable force due to

pressure build-up.

7.
Remove the dust boot from the

caliper assembly.

8. Remove the rubber piston seal

from the cylinder and discard it.

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean all metal parts with isopropyl

alcohol or a suitable solvent. Use

clean, dry, compressed air to clean out

and dry the grooves and passage ways.

Be sure that the caliper bore and com-

ponent parts are completely free of

any foreign material.

Check the cylinder bore and piston

for damage or excessive wear. Replace

the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the

chrome plating is worn off.

Assembly

1.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid

to the new caliper piston seal and in-

stall it in the cylinder bore. Be sure

the seal does not become twisted and

that it is seated fully in the groove.

2.
Install a new dust boot by setting

the flange squarely in the outer groove

of the caliper bore.

3.
Coat the piston with the speci-

fied fluid and install the piston in the

cylinder bore. Spread the dust boot

over the piston as it is installed. Seat

the dust boot in the piston groove.

4.
Position the inner brake shoe so

that the ears of the shoe rests on the

top of the anchor plate bosses and be-

neath the hold-down springs.

5.
Install new caliper locating pin

insulators in the anchor plate.

6. Position the caliper on the an-

chor plate.

7.
Apply water or isopropyl alcohol

to the caliper locating pins and install

them loosely in the anchor plate. Be

sure the guide pins are free of oil,

grease or dirt.

8. Install the caliper on the spindle

as outlined under Disc Brake Caliper

Assembly.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

Do not remove the bridge bolts that

hold the two halves of the caliper to-

gether. The two caliper housings are

shown separated in Fig. 46 for illus-

tration purposes only.
1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the car as outlined in Section 2.

2.
Remove the two attaching bolts

and the caliper splash shield (Fig. 46).

3.
Remove the two shoe and lining

assemblies.

4.
Remove the flexible brake hose

from the caliper.

5.
Remove the external transfer

tube.

6. Remove the four dust boots from

the caliper housings and piston

grooves.

7.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and

secure it by the mounting flanges on

the inboard housing (Fig. 45).

8. Remove the four pistons from

the cylinder bores with the special tool

shown in Fig. 45. To prevent cocking

with consequent damage to the piston

or bore, rotate the piston with the tool

while pulling it outward at the same

time.
Be careful to avoid scratching or

damaging the outside diameter surface

or dust boot retaining groove of the

piston. Such damage causes poor seal-

ing.

If a piston is so completely seized in

the cylinder bore that it can not be re-

moved with the special tool, the cali-

per housing must be replaced, by posi-

tioning two screwdrivers in the piston

dust boot retaining groove and prying

outward. To prevent cocking, tap the

end of the piston lightly around the

circumference with a hammer, while

the prying force is being applied. Be

careful to avoid damaging the dust

boot retainer in the caliper housing

(Fig. 46). If this method of removal is

used, the pistons must be replaced.

If the caliper dust boot retainer or

retaining groove is damaged or

scratched, pry the retainer out of the

caliper housing with screwdrivers.

Too/-T65P-2
J
18- A

H 1652-A

FIG. 45—Removing or Installing

Pistons —
Lincoln
Continentalprocarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-09

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball

joint.

LOWER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental

and Continental Mark III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place

jacks under the lower arms as shown

in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower

ball joints.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-

cribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

lower arm and position the indicator

so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the lower ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball

joint.

Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,

Montego, Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the lower end of the

spindle and the lower arm.

4.
Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the lower

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the lower arm.

During the foregoing check, the

upper ball joint will be unloaded and

may move. Disregard all such move-

ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do

not mistake loose wheel bearings for a

worn ball joint.

POWER STEERING GEAR

CLEANING

Disassembly and assembly of the

steering gear and. the sub-assemblies

must be made on a clean workbench.

As in repairing any hydraulically op-

erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

unit with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid as possible. Handle all

parts very carefully to avoid nicks,

burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could

make the parts unfit for use.

Do not clean, wash or soak seals in

cleaning solvent.

INSPECTION

1.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the cover for wear. If worn,

replace the cover.

2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing

for cracked races and the balls for

looseness, wear, pitting, end play or

other damage. Check the fit of the

bearing on the input shaft. Replace

the bearing, if required.

3.
Inspect the valve housing for

wear, scoring or burrs.

4.
Inspect the tube seats in the

pressure and return ports in the valve

body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-

move and replace.

5.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the housing for wear. If

worn, replace the bushing or the hous-

ing.

6. Check all fluid passages for ob-

struction or leakage.

7.
Inspect the steering gear housing

for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-

ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-

ton bore of the housing for scoring or

wear. If necessary, replace the hous-

ing.

8. Check the input shaft bearing

after installation to be sure that it ro-

tates freely.

9. If the valve spool is not free in

the valve housing, check for burrs at

the outward edges of the working

lands in the housing and remove with

a hard stone. Check the valve spool

for burrs and if burrs are found, stone

the valve in a radial direction only.

Check for freedom of the valve again.

10.
Check the piston rack teeth and

sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.

FLUSHING THE POWER

STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Should it be necessary to replace an

inoperative power steering pump, the

need for flushing the steering system

is required when installing the new

pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump

and remove the pulley as outlined in

Part 3-10.

2.
Install the pulley on a new

pump. Install the pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump

(Part 3-10).

3.
Place the fluid return line in a

suitable container and plug the reser-

voir return pipe.

4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant

(C1AZ-19582-A).

5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-

vent the engine from starting and raise

the front wheels off the ground.

6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being poured

into the reservoir, turn the engine over

using the ignition key, at the same

time cycle the steering wheel from

stop to stop.

7.
As soon as all of the lubricant

has been poured in, turn off the igni-

tion key, and attach the coil wire.

8. Remove the plug from the reser-

voir return pipe, and attach the return

hose to the reservoir.

9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if

low, add fluid to the proper level. Do

not overfill.

10.
Lower the vehicle.

11.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering from stop to stop to expel

any trapped air from the system.

POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL

EXCEPT LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

CLEANING

Wash all parts (except seals) in a

Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent

and dry with compressed air.

Punch or Rod

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

G1607-A

FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com

03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-10

The following procedure should be

followed when cleaning the relief valve

which is a part of the pump valve as-

sembly.

1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable

diameter, apply an even pressure in a

straight line to the tip of the relief

valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve

two or three times to exhaust the oil

which is trapped in the assembly. Do

not hammer on the valve pin or hous-

ing.

2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-

tainer of clean solvent. Again applying

an even pressure to the tip of the relief

valve pin, (a sudden strong force could

push the pin through the relief valve

spool) move the valve in and out sev-

eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing

the assembly. Pressure created within

the valve bore when the valve is moved

inward should force the cleaning fluid

out through the sensing orifice. If this

does not occur, the sensing orifice

should be cleaned with a piece of wire.

The valve must move freely and even-

ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if

the valve binds, the pump valve must

be replaced.

INSPECTION

The following describes the compo-

nents of the power steering pump

which must be replaced regardless of

condition and how to determine when

other components should be replaced.

The outlet fitting hex nut may be

reused if the corners of the hex are

not rounded. The housing bolts may

be reused if the threads are not dam-

aged.

All gaskets and seals must be re-

placed with new components except

the rotor shaft seal which should be

reused unless it was leaking.

The reservoir assembly may be

reused if the reservoir seal and gasket

areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-

es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-

turn and fill tubes must not be loose

or bent. Be sure to check for a broken

baffle.

The housing or housing assembly

may be reused if there is no damage

(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,

outlet fitting or cover seal areas.

If the outlet fitting is damaged, the

pump housing must be replaced. The

pressure plate springs may be reused

providing they are not bent, broken or

have not taken a set.

Do not reuse the retainer end plate

if it is burred or damaged. The upper

pressure plate may be reused if there

is no scoring on the wear surface. It is

acceptable to polish the phosphate

coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be

reused if there is no wear other than

the removal of the phosphate coating

on the cam contour. Do not disas-

semble the rotor and cam assembly.

Push the rotor part way out the cam

insert taking care not to let the slip-

pers and springs fall out. Check the

cam ID for scoring and burning.

Check the rotor faces and OD for

scoring and chipping. Do not attempt

to repair or refinish the lower and

upper pressure plates, cam or rotor

assembly. When wear or burning is

encountered, replace, them with new

components.

Install a new rotor and cam assem-

bly if the slippers are worn. Replace

the springs if they are bent or broken.

Polishing the phosphate coating of the

slipper sealing surface is permissable.

The rotor shaft can be reused if the

front and rear thrust faces, the bush-

ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-

ter are not excessively worn or scored.

The housing plate and bushing as-

sembly may be reused if all of the

threaded holes are not damaged

beyond repair and the bushing diame-

ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch

over the maximum dimension of .6897

inch. Threaded holes can be repaired

by drilling out the damaged threads

and installing a helicoil insert. If the

bushing is scored or excessively worn,

a new plate and bushing assembly

must be installed.

With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a

dial indicator) check the squareness of

the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.

21).
The pin must be square with the

adjacent surface within .001 inch per

inch through a 180 degree arch.

A bent or broken dowel pin can be

replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a

horizontal position and grip at least

an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap

the plate with a plastic or a rubber

hammer to pull the pin from the

plate.

2.
Insert the support guide (Tool

T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.

22) and press the pin into the plate to

a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).

The support guide tool will serve as a

stop guide. Be careful not to bend the

new dowel pin during installation.

3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A

(with a dial indicaator) to check the

dowel pin squareness as outlined

above.

POWER STEERING PUMP

INSPECTION—LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent

and dry them with clean cloths or

compressed air.

2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,

scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the

shaft if it is damaged or if the inner

keyway is damaged.

Tool
T69P-3D608-B

G1609-A

FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion

Tool
T69P-3D608-A

G1608-A

FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness

Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com

03-02-10
Suspension

03-02-10

lower
arm
free
to
drop
as
coil spring

tension
is
eased.
If a
chain hoist
or a

jack that
has
a
narrow contact
pad is

to
be
used
on the
bumper
to
raise
the

car, distribute
the
load along
the

bumper
by
using
a
steel plate
3 or 4

inches long
as a
contact
pad to pre-

vent damaging
the
bumper.

2.
If the
ball joint
is
riveted
to the

arm, drill
a
1/8-inch
pilot hole
com-

pletely through each rivet. Then drill

off
the
rivet head through
the
pilot

hole with
a
3/8-inch drill,
and
drive

out both rivets.

3.
Position
a
jack
or
safety stand

under
the
lower
arm, and
lower
the

vehicle about
6
inches
to
offset
the

coil spring tension.

4.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

ball joint stud,
and
remove
the nut.

5.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end
of the
tool shown
in
Fig.
7,

and position
the
tool.
The
tool should

seat firmly against
the end of
both

studs,
and
not
against
the
upper stud

nut.

6. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone. Remove
the
ball

joint.

7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and

remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.

Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the

holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is

cracked.

8. Position
the
stud
of
the
ball joint

to
the
spindle bore,
and
install
the at-

taching
nut
finger-tight.

9. Attach
the
ball joint
to
the
lower

arm.
Use
only
the
specified bolts
and

nuts.
Do not
rivet
the new
ball joint
to

the
arm.
Torque nuts
to
specification.

10.
Torque
the
ball joint stud
nut

to specification,
and
install
a
new cot-

ter
pin.

11.
Remove
the
jack.

12.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust

caster, camber,
and
toe-in. Whenever

any part
of the
front suspension
has

been removed
and
installed, front

wheel alignment must
be
checked.

BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

The lower ball joint
is
riveted
to
the

lower
arm
wheras
the
upper ball joint

is bolted
to the
upper
arm.
When
re-

placing
a
ball joint,
use all the
parts

supplied
in the kit.
T57P-3006-A
UPPER
ARM

UPPER BALL JOINT

LOWER BALL JOINT
\
LOWER
ARM

T62F.3006-A
F
1493-A

FIG. 13— Loosening Ball Joint

Stud

Lower
Arm

1.
Raise
the
vehicle. Place
a sup-

port under each rail
to the
rear
of
the

lower
arm in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from

the
hub.

3.
Remove
2
bolts
and
washers that

attach
the
caliper
to the
spindle.
Re-

move
the
caliper from
the
rotor
and

wire
it to the
underbody
to
prevent

damage
to the
brake hose.

4.
Remove
the hub and
rotor from

the spindle.

5.
Remove
the
splash shield
and

gasket from
the
spindle.

6. Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

lower ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

7.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13.
The
tool should seat firmly against

the ends
of
both studs,
and not

against
the
lower stud
nut.

8. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

9. Place
a
jack under
the
spring

pocket
in the
lower
arm, and
raise
the
arm slightly. Place
a
support stand

under
the
lower
arm as a
safety
pre-

caution.

10.
Remove
the nut
from
the
ball

joint stud. Raise
the
upper
arm and

spindle until
the
spindle clears
the
ball

stud. Prop
the
upper
arm in a
raised

position.

11.
Remove
the
ball -joint rivet

heads with
a
chisel. Punch
the
remain-

ing portion
of the
rivets from
the

holes,
and
remove
the
joint.

12.
Install
the
new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
the

nuts
to
specification. Make sure
the

joint
is
completely filled with
the
spec-

ified lubricant.

13.
Lower
the
upper
arm
while

guiding
the
spindle over
the
ball stud.

Install
the
stud
nut and
tighten
it to

specification. Continue
to
tighten
the

nut
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
In-

stall
the
cotter
pin.

14.
Install
the
gasket
and
shield
on

the spindle. Tighten
the
attaching

bolts
to
specifications.

15.
Install
the
hub and
rotor
on the

spindle
and
adjust
the
wheel bearings.

16.
Install
the
caliper
to
the
spindle

and tighten
the
attaching bolts
to

specifications. Check
for the
correct

flexible hose routing (Part
2-2).

17.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire.
Tor-

que
the
wheel nuts
to
specification
and

lower
the
vehicle.

Upper
Arm

1.
Place
a
jack under
the
outer
end

of
the
lower
arm,
and
raise
the arm.

Place
a
support stand under
the
side

rail
in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire.

3.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

upper ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

%
4.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13).
The
tool should seat firmly

against
the
ends
of
both studs,
and

not against
the
upper stud
nut.

5.
Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

upper stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

6. Raise
the
upper
arm to
free
the

ball stud from
the
spindle. Wire
the

upper
end
of
the
spindle
to the
under-

body
to
prevent damage
to the
brake

hose.

7.
Remove
the
ball joint retaining

nuts
and
bolts,
and
remove
the
joint.

8. Install
the new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
theprocarmanuals.com