
02-03-03
Specifications
02-03-03
ROTOR REFINISH
The following requirements must be met when resurfacing disc
brake rotors:
Rotunda Disc Brake Attachment FRE-2249-2 is the only approv-
ed tool to be used to ref inish the disc brake rotors. The step-by-
step resurfacing procedure provided with the tool must be adhered
t0" The finished braking surfaces of the rotor must be flat and
parallel within 0.0007
inch;
lateral runout must not exceed 0.003
inch total indicator reading, and the surface finish of the braking
surfaces are to be 15-80 micro inches.
On all models except Lincoln Continental the limiting dimen-
sion from the inner bearing cup to the inner rotor face must be
measured with a ball and gage bar (Rotunda FRE-70160).
On Lincoln Continental models the limiting dimension from the
inboard bearing cup to the inboard rotor face of 0.755 inch
mini-
mum and from the inboard bearing cup to the outboard rotor face
of 0.395 inch minimum must be observed.
TORQUE LIMITS -GENERAL -FT-LBS.
Parking Brake Control Assembly
Mounting Nuts and Bolts
Master Cylinder to Dash Panel Screw
Master Cylinder to Booster
Booster to Dash Panel
Disc Brake Caliper to Spindle Bolts
Disc Brake Rotor Splash Shield
to Spindle
Brake Hose to Caliper Connection Bolt
Caliper Locating Pins
Caliper Stabilizer to Anchor Plate
Bolt
Caliper Brake Shoe Clips
Caliper Bleeder Screws
Wheel Cylinder to Backing Plate Screws
Wheel Cylinder & Backing Plate
Anchor Pin Nut
Rear Brake Backing Plate to Axle
Housing:
Removable Carrier
Integral Type
Front Brake Backing Plate to Spindle
Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Screw
Brake Hose Connection to Front
Wheel Cylinder
Brake Line Connection to Rear Axle
Housing:
Removable Carrier
Integral Type
Hydraulic Tube Connections ®
3/8 x 24
7/16 x 24
1/2 x 20
9/16 x 18
Wheel to Hub and Drum or Hub and
Rotor Nuts
Ford-Mercury
Meteor
Cap Screw
12-19
Nuts 7-11
13-20
13-?0
13-20
Upper ©
110-140
Lower
90-120
9-14
17-25
25-35
8-11
6-10
6-15
10-20
20-30
50-70
IPo
25-40
6-15
12-20
30-40
25-35
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
70-115
Fair
lane-
Montego
Falcon
12-25
13-20
13-20
13-20
Upper CD
100-140
Lower
55-75
9-14
17-25
25-35
8-11
6-10
6-15
10 in. Brake
10-20
9 in. Brake
5-7
50-70
20-40
28-35
32-65 ®
Inch-lb.
12-20
12-19
12-19
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
4 lug
55-85
5 lug
70-115
Mustang-
Cougar
12-25
13-20
13-20
13-20
Upper ©
100-140
Lower
55-75
9-14
17-25
25-35
8-11
6-10
6-15
10 in. Brake
10-20
9 in. Brake
5-7
50-70
20-40
28-35
32-65 ®
Inch-lb.
12-20
12-19
12-19
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
4 lug
55-85
5 lug
70-115
Thunderbird
Continental
Mark III
1218
13-20
13-20
Upper ©
110-140
Lower
90-120
9-14
17-25
25-35
8-11
6-10
6-15
10-20
50-70
6-15
30-40
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
70-115
Lincoln
Continental
Dash Panel
10-20
Inst. Panel
712
13-20
13-20
100-140
9-14
7-9
6-15
10-20
30-35
6-15
10-15
10-15
10-17
10-17
70-115
® The upper bolt must be tightened first.
® On front disc brake calipers 6-15 ft-lbs.
® All hydraulic lines must be tightened to the specified torque value and be free of fluid leakage.procarmanuals.com

03-01-06
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-06
SUSPENSION UPPER
ARM MOVEMENT
Front Bolt Outboard
Rear Bolt Outboard
Front Bolt Inboard
Rear Bolt Inboard
CASTER CHANGE
Tilt Backward
Increase Positive Caster
or
Decrease Negative Caster
Tilt Forward
Decrease Positive Caster
or
Increase Negative Caster
Tilt Forward
Decrease Positive Caster
or
Increase Negative Caster
Tilt Backward
Increase Positive Caster
or
Decrease Negative Caster
CAMBER CHANGE
Tilt Outward
Increase Positive Camber
or
Decrease Negative Camber
Tilt Inward
Decrease Positive Camber
or
Increase Negative Camber
FIG. 14—Caster and Camber Adjustments
sary. Then, tighten the upper arm
inner shaft attaching bolts to specifi-
cation. Remove the adjusting bar
(Tool T65P-3OOO-D) and the align-
ment spacers (Tool T65P-3O00-E or
F).
Camber
To adjust the camber angle, install
the tool as outlined above (Fig. 13).
Loosen both inner shaft attaching
bolts and tighten or loosen the hook
nuts to move the inner shaft inboard
or outboard as necessary with Tool
T65P-3OOO-D to increase or decrease
camber (Fig. 13). The camber angle
can be checked without tightening the
inner shaft attaching bolts.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE, FALCON,
MONTEGO, MUSTANG
Be sure all the equipment listed in
Equipment Installation is installed be-
fore adjusting the caster and camber.
Caster is controlled by the front
suspension strut (Fig. 15). To obtain
positive caster, loosen the strut rear
nut and tighten the strut front nut
against the bushing. To obtain nega-
tive caster, loosen the strut front nut
and tighten the strut rear nut against
the bushing.
Camber is controlled by the eccen-
tric cam located at the lower arm at-
tachment to the side rail (Fig. 13).
To adjust the camber, loosen the
camber adjustment bolt nut at the
rear of the body bracket. Spread the
body bracket at the camber adjust-
TER ADJUSTMENT NUTS
EAR INSULATOR
WASHER
FRONT ADJUSTMENT NUT
INNER SLEEVE
TURN NUTS
REARWARD
TO OBTAIN
POSITIVE
CASTER
OUTER SLEEVE
RONT INSULATOR
WASHER
CASTELLATED
NUT
TURN NUTS
FORWARD
TO OBTAIN
NEGATIVE
CASTER
NEGATIVE
CAMBER
SPREAD THIS MEMBER AT
LOWER ARM PIVOT
BUSHING
PRY AT THESE POINTS'
F1371-A
FIG. J5—Caster and Camber Adjustments
ment bolt area just enough to permit
lateral travel of the arm when the ad-
justment bolt is turned. Rotate the
bolt and eccentric clockwise from the
high position to increase camber or
counterclockwise to decrease camber.
After the caster and camber has
been adjusted to specification, torque
the lower arm eccentric bolt nut and
the strut front nut to specification.
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Preliminary Steps
1.
With the car properly positioned
and wheel alignment measuring equip-
ment properly installed, raise the hood
and scribe chalk marks around the
bolts and lock washers that secure theprocarmanuals.com

03-01-07
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-07
upper arm shaft to the frame member
(Fig. 3, Part 3-2).
2.
Loosen the arm shaft attaching
bolts,
raise the front end of the vehicle
and lower it again. This will break the
arm shaft loose from the frame mem-
ber.
3.
With a pry bar, move the arm
shaft back into alignment with the
chalk marks made in Step 1, and
tighten the shaft attaching bolts. The
bolts should be tightened just enough
to hold the shaft in position without
preventing its being moved with the
pry bar.
Caster
1.
With the aid of a pry bar, move
the shaft in or out, as required, to
meet specifications. A movement of
approximately 3 /32 inch at either the
front or rear bolt location will change
the caster 1/2 degree. Inboard move-
ment of the front bolt, or outboard
movement of the rear bolt, will change
caster in the negative direction. Out-
board movement of the front bolt, or
inboard movement of the rear bolt,
will change caster in the positive di-
rection.
2.
When the caster is correct, tor-
que the shaft attaching bolts to speci-
fication and recheck the caster and
camber to insure that the readings
have not changed.
Camber
TURN DOWNWARD TO
INCREASE ROD LENGTH
TURN UPWARD
TO DECREASE
ROD LENGTH
TURN
DOWNWARD
TO DECREASE
ROD LENGTH
TURN UPWARD TO
INCREASE ROD LENGTH
LEFT-HAND SLEEVE
RIGHT-HAND SLEEVE
FIG. 16—Spindle Connecting Rod Adjustment
WHEN TOE-IN IS CORRECT
TURN BOTH CONNECTING ROD
SLEEVES UPWARD TO ADJUST
SPOKE POSITION
F1433-A
i URN BOTH CONNECTING ROD
SLEEVES DOWNWARD TO
ADJUST SPOKE POSITION
WHEN TOE-IN IS
NOT CORRECT
LENGTHEN LEFT ROD TO
INCREASE TOE-IN
SHORTEN RIGHT ROD
TO DECREASE TOE-IN
SHORTEN LEFT ROD
TO DECREASE TOE-IN
LENGHTEN RIGHT ROD
TO INCREASE TOE-IN
ADJUST BOTH RODS EQUALLY TO MAINTAIN NORMAL SPOKE POSITION
1.
With the aid of a pry bar, move
the shaft in or out, as required, to
meet specifications. A movement of
approximately 3/64 inch of the entire
shaft will change the camber 1/4 de-
gree.
Inboard movement will change
the camber in the negative direction.
Outboard movement will change the
camber in the positive direction.
2.
When the camber is correct, tor-
que the shaft attaching bolts to speci-
fication and recheck the camber and
caster to insure that the readings have
not changed. Remove all alignment
equipment and alignment spacers and
install the right and left side rail
bumpers.
TOE-IN AND STEERING
WHEEL SPOKE
POSITION ADJUSTMENTS
Check the steering wheel spoke po-
sition when the front wheels are in the
straight-ahead position. If the spokes
are not in their normal position, they
can be properly adjusted while toe-in
is being adjusted.
F1434-
A
f/G.77—Toe-in and Steering Wheel Spoke Alignment Adjustment—Typical
1.
Loosen the two ciamp bolts or
each spindle connecting rod sleeve
(Fig. 16).
2.
Adjust toe-in. If the steering
wheel spokes are in their normal posi-
tion, lengthen or shorten both rods
equally to obtain correct toe-in (Fig.
16).
If the steering wheel spokes are
not in their normal position, make the
necessary rod adjustments to obtain
correct toe-in and steering wheel
spoke alignment (Fig. 17).
3.
Recheck toe-in and the steering
wheel spoke position. If toe-in is cor-
rect and the steering wheel spokes are
still not in their normal position, turn
both connecting rod sleeves upward or
downward same number of turns to
move the steering wheel spokes (Fig.
16).
4.
When toe-in and the steering
wheel spoke position are both correct,
torque the clamp bolts on both con-
necting rod sleeves to specification
(Part 3-13). Lubricate clamp, bolts
and nuts prior to torquing to specifi-
cation. The sleeve position should not
be changed when the clamp bolts are
tightened.
WHEEL BALANCING
See the instructions provided with
the Rotunda Wheel Balancer.
Make certain that the brakes are
not dragging before attempting to spin
the wheels. Push the brake shoes into
the caliper to free the rotor.
LUBRICANT CHECKING
PROCEDURE
MANUAL STEERING GEAR
1.
Center the steering wheel.
2.
Remove the steering gear hous-
ing filler plug.procarmanuals.com

03-01-08
Suspension
—
Steering,
Wheels
And
Tires
—
General Service
03-01-08
3.
Remove the lower (upper on
Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-
housing attaching bolt.
4.
With a clean punch or like in-
strument, clean out or push inward
the loose lubricant in the filler plug
hole and cover to housing attaching
bolt hole.
5.
Slowly turn the steering wheel to
the left stop, lubricant should rise
within the lower cover bolt hole; then
slowly turn the steering wheel to the
right stop, lubricant should rise within
the filler plug hole. If lubricant does
not rise in both the cover bolt hole
and the filler plug hole, add lubricant
until it comes out both holes during
this check.
6. Install the lower (upper on
Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-
housing attaching bolt and the filler
plug.
CLEANING
AND
INSPECTION
FRONT
END
GENERAL
INSPECTION
Do not check and adjust front
wheel alignment without first making
the following inspection for front-end
damage, or wear.
1.
Check for specified air pressures
in all four tires.
2.
Raise the front of the vehicle off
the floor. Shake each front wheel
grasping the upper and lower surfaces
of the tire. Check the front suspension
ball joints and mountings for loose-
ness,
wear, and damage. Check the
brake backing plate mountings. Tor-
que all loose nuts and bolts to specifi-
cation. Replace all worn parts as out-
lined in Part 3-2.
3.
Check the steering gear mount-
ings and all steering linkage connec-
tions for looseness. Torque all mount-
ings to specifications. If any of the
linkage is worn or bent, replace the
parts as outlined in Part 3-5.
4.
Check the front wheel bearings.
If any in-and-out free play is noticed,
adjust the bearings to specifications.
Replace worn or damaged bearings as
outlined in Part 3-12.
5.
Spin each front wheel with a
wheel spinner, and check and balance
each wheel as required.
6. Check the action of the shock
absorbers. If the shock absorbers are
not in good condition, the vehicle may
not settle in a normal, level position,
and front wheel alignment may be af-
fected.
WHEEL INSPECTION
Wheel hub nuts should be inspected
and tightened to specification at pre-
delivery. Loose wheel hub nuts may
cause shimmy and vibration. Elongat-
ed stud holes in the wheels may also
result from loose hub nuts.
Keep the wheels and hubs clean.
Stones wedged between the wheel and
drum and lumps of mud or grease can
unbalance a wheel and tire.
Check for damage that would affect
the runout of the wheels. Wobble or
shimmy caused by a damaged wheel
will eventually damage the wheel bear-
ings.
Inspect the wheel rims for dents
that could permit air to leak from the
tires.
UPPER BALL JOINT
INSPECTION
Ford,
Mercury,
Meteor,
Thunderbird,
Lincoln Continental
and
Continental Mark
III
1.
Raise the vehicle and place floor
jacks beneath the lower arms.
2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the
lower edge of the tire and move the
wheel in and out.
3.
As the wheel is being moved in
and out, observe the upper end of the
spindle and the upper arm.
4.
Any movement between the
upper end of the spindle and the upper
arm indicates ball joint wear and loss
of preload. If any such movement is
observed, replace the upper ball joint.
During
the
foregoing
check,
the
lower ball joint will
be
unloaded
and
may
move.
Disregard
all
such
move-
ment
of the
lower ball
joint.
Also,
do
not mistake loose wheel bearings
for a
worn ball
joint.
Cougar,
Fairlane,
Falcon,
Montego
and
Mustang
1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame
contact hoist or by floor jacks placed
beneath the underbody until the wheel
falls to the full down position as
shown in Fig. 18. This will unload the
upper ball joint.
2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as de-
scribed in Part 3-12.
3.
Attach a dial indicator to the
upper arm and position the indicator
so that the plunger rests against the
inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to
the upper arm ball joint.
4.
Grasp the tire at the top and
bottom, and slowly move the tire in
and out (Fig. 18). Note the reading
(radial play) on the dial indicator. If
MAXIMUM TOLERANCE
F
1500-A
FIG.
T8—Measuring Upper Ball
Joint Radial Play
MAXIMUM TOLERANCE
F14
35-A
FIG.
79—Measuring Lower Ball
Joint Radial Playprocarmanuals.com

03-01-11
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-11
3.
Inspect the rotor, rollers, cam
ring, pressure plate, cover, and bush-
ing in the pressure plate for wear or
scoring. If damaged, replacement of
the pump (less housing) is required.
4.
Make sure the inner faces of the
cover and the housing are free of
paint, nicks, or burrs. Check all fluid
passages for restrictions.
5.
Inspect the valving surfaces
(areas where the rotor and rollers con-
tact) for wear or scoring. Replace the
pressure plate or the cover if worn or
scored. Inspect the bushing in the
pressure plate for wear or scoring, and
replace the plate if necessary.
6. Inspect the control valve for
scores, nicks, or burred edges. Re-
place the valve if damaged. Do not dis-
assemble the valve. Check the valve
for free movement in the housing
bore.
7.
Inspect the tube seat in the hous-
ing. If damaged, remove it with an
E-Z-Out and install a new seat.
SHOCK ABSORBER CHECKS
All vehicles are equipped with hy-
draulic shock absorbers of the direct-
acting type and are nonadjustable and
nonrefillable. They cannot be repaired.
Before replacing a shock absorber,
check the action of the shock absor-
bers as follows:
ON VEHICLE TESTS
1.
Check the shock absorber to be
sure it is securely and properly in-
stalled. Check the shock absorber in-
sulators for damage and wear.
Replace any defective insulators and
tighten attachments to the specified
torque (on a shock absorber which in-
corporates integral insulators, replace
the shock absorbers).
2.
Inspect the shock absorber for
evidence of fluid leakage. A light film
of fluid is permissible. Be sure any
fluid observed is not from sources
other than the shock absorber.
Replace the shock absorber if leak-
age is severe.
3.
Disconnect the lower end of the
shock absorber. Extend and compress
the shock absorber as fast as possible,
using as much travel as possible.
Action should become smooth and
uniform throughout each stroke.
Higher resistance on extension than
on compression is a normal condition.
Faint swish noises are also normal.
Remove the shock absorber for a
bench test if action is erratic. If the
action is smooth, but the shock absor-
bers are suspected of being weak fol-
low step 4:
4.
Repeat step 3 on the mating
shock absorber installed on the oppo-
site side of the vehicle, and compare
results of both tests. If the action is
similar, it is unlikely that either shock
absorber is defective. Reconnect both
shock absorbers.
Replace the shock absorber having
the lower resistance. Ensure that the
part number of the replacement is the
same as that of the original shock ab-
sorber. The replacement shock absor-
ber resistance will appear to be higher
than either original due to initial fric-
tion of the rod seal.
BENCH TEST
With the shock absorber right side
up (as installed in vehicle), extend it
fully. Then turn the shock absorber
upside down and fully compress it.
Repeat this procedure at least three
times to ensure that any entrapped air
has been expelled. Now place the
shock absorber right side up in a vise,
and hand stroke the shock absorber as
described in On Vehicle Tests, step 3.
If action is not now smooth and uni-
form, install a new shock absorber.procarmanuals.com

03-02-08
Suspension
03-02-08
IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS
Damage to steering linkage compo-
nents and front suspension struts may
occur if care is not exercised when po-
sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post
hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.
If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the
vehicle, place the adapters under the
lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.
Do not allow the adapters to contact
the steering linkage. If the adapters
are placed under the crossmember, a
piece of wood (2 x 4 x 16 inches)
should be placed on the hoist channel
between the adapters. This will pre-
vent the adapters from damaging the
front suspension struts.
UPPER BALL JOINT
REPLACEMENT
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK III
1.
Raise the vehicle high enough to
provide working space, and place a
support under the lower arm. If a
chain hoist or a jack that has a nar-
row contact pad is to be used on the
bumper to raise the vehicle, distribute
the load along the bumper by using a
steel plate 3 or 4 inches long as a con-
tact pad to prevent damaging the
bumper.
2.
Remove the wheel and tire.
3.
Drill a
1/8-inch
hole through
each upper ball joint retaining rivet.
Using a large chisel, cut off the rivets.
4.
Remove the upper arm suspen-
sion bumper.
5.
Remove the cotter pin and nut
from the upper ball joint stud.
6. Place a box wrench over the
lower end of the ball joint remover
tool, and position the tool as in Fig. 7.
The tools should seat firmly against
the ends of both studs, and not
against the lower stud nut.
7.
Turn the wrench until both studs
are under tension, and then, with a
hammer, tap the spindle near the
upper stud to loosen the stud from the
spindle. Do not loosen the stud with
tool pressure alone. Remove the ball
joint.
8. Clean the end of the arm, and
remove all burrs from the hole edges.
Check for cracks in the metal at the
holes,
and replace the arm if it is
cracked.
F1436-A
FIG. 7—Disconnecting Ball
Joints—Typical
9. Attach the new ball joint to the
upper arm. Use only the specified
bolts,
and nuts. Do not rivet the new
ball joints to the arm. Torque the nuts
to specification.
10 Install the upper arm suspension
bumper. Torque the nut to specifica-
tion.
11.
Position the ball joint stud in
the spindle bore, and torque the at-
taching nut to specification. Install a
new cotter pin.
12.
Install the wheel and tire.
13.
Remove the safety stands, and
lower the vehicle.
14.
Check and, if necessary, adjust
caster, camber, and toe-in. Whenever
any part of the front suspension has
been removed and installed, front
wheel alignment must be checked.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,
FALCON, MONTEGO,
MUSTANG
1.
Position a support between the
upper arm and frame side rail as
shown in Figs. 8 and 9; then, raise the
vehicle and position safety stands.
2.
Remove the wheel and tire.
3.
Remove the cotter pin and nut
from the upper ball joint stud.
4.
Position the ball joint remover
tool as shown in Fig. 10. The tool
should seat firmly against the ends of
both studs, and not against the lower
stud nut. It may be necessary to re-
move the lower ball joint cotter pin if
it prevents the tool from seating on
the lower stud.
5.
Turn the tool with a wrench until
both studs are under tension, and
then, with a hammer, tap the spindle
near the upper stud to loosen the stud
F 1496-A
FIG. 8—Upper arm Support—Mustangprocarmanuals.com

03-02-09
Suspension
03-02-09
WOOD BLOCK
F
1287-A
FIG. 9—Upper
Arm
Support—
Montego, Falcon
and
Fairlane
Tool-T62F-3006-A
ARM SUPPORT
LOWER BALL JOINT
SLEEVE
Too/-T57P-3006-A
F 1157-C
FIG. TO—Loosening Ball Joint
Studs
in
Spindle—Typical
from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with tool pressure alone. Raise
the stud
out of the
spindle bore.
6. Using
a
large chisel,
cut off the
three upper ball joint retaining rivets
and remove
the
ball joint.
7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and
remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.
Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the
holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is
cracked.
8. Attach
the new
ball joint
to the
upper
arm. Use
only
the
specified
bolts,
nuts,
and
washers.
Do not
rivet
the
new
ball joint
to the
arm. Torque
the nuts
to
specification (Part 3-13).
9. Position
the
lower ball joint stud
in
the
spindle bore,
and
torque
the at-
taching
nut to
specification. Install
a
new cotter
pin and
tighten
the nut if
necessary
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
Install
a new
cotter
pin in the
lower ball joint
if it was
removed.
1495-A
FIG. 11 —Shaft Centered
in
Arm—Typical
F 1494- A
FIG. 12—Torque Upper
Arm
Inner Shaft Bushings—Typical
10.
Lubricate
the
ball joint,
and in-
stall
the
wheel
and
tire. Torque
the
lug nuts
to
specification (Part 3-13).
11.
Remove
the
safety stands,
and
lower
the
vehicle.
12.
Remove
the
support from
be-
tween
the
upper
arm and
frame.
13.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust
caster, camber,
and
toe-in.
UPPER ARM SHAFT AND/OR
BUSHING REPLACEMENT
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,
FALCON, MONTEGO,
MUSTANG
1.
Remove
the
shock absorber
and
upper mounting bracket
as an
assem-
bly.
2.
Raise
the
vehicle
on a
hoist,
in-
stall safety stands,
and
remove
the
wheel cover
or hub cap.
3.
Remove
the
grease
cap
from
the
hub;
then, remove
the
cotter
pin, nut
lock, adjusting
nut and
outer bearing
from
the hub.
4.
Pull
the
wheel, tire,
and the hub
and drum
off the
spindle
as an
assem-
bly.
5.
Install
the
spring compressor
tool (Figs.
20, 21 and 22).
6. Remove
2
upper arm-to-spring
tower attaching nuts
and
swing
the
upper
arm
outboard from
the
spring
tower.
7.
Rotate
the
inner shaft
so
that
the
studs
can be
removed. Remove
the
studs with
a
soft mallet.
8. Unscrew
the
bushings from
the
shaft
and
suspension
arm;
then,
re-
move
the
shaft from
the arm.
9. Position
the
shaft
in the. arm,
apply grease
to the new
bushings
and
O-rings,
and
install
the
bushings loose
on
the
shaft
and
arm. Turn
the
bush-
ings
so
that
the
shaft
is
exactly
cen-
tered.
The
shaft will
be
properly
cen-
tered when dimensions
A and B in
Fig.
11 are
equal.
10.
Fabricate
a
spacer from
a sec-
tion
of
3/4-inch diameter pipe
or
metal
of
comparable size
and
strength.
The
spacer should
be 6
15/16 inches long.
11.
Position
the
spacer parallel with
the inner shaft,
and
force
the
spacer
between
the
flanges
of the
upper
arm
(Fig.
12).
If
the
spacer cannot
be
forced
be-
tween
the arm
flanges due
to
excessive
distortion, replace
the
upper
arm as-
sembly.
12.
With
the
spacer positioned
in
the
arm,
torque
the
bushings
to
speci-
fication. Move
the arm on the
shaft
to
be sure that
no
binding exists, then
re-
move
the
spacer.
13.
Attach
the
suspension upper
arm
to the
underbody. Release
the
front spring.
14.
Remove
the
spring compressor
and position
the
wheel, tire,
and hub
and drum
on the
spindle.
15.
Install
the
bearing, washer,
ad-
justing
nut and nut
lock. Adjust
the
wheel bearing
as
outlined
in
Part
3-12
and install
the
cotter
pin,
grease
cap
and
hub cap or
wheel cover.
16.
Lower
the
vehicle
and
install
the shock absorber
and
upper mount-
ing bracket.
17.
Check caster, camber,
and toe-
in,
and
adjust
as
necessary (Part 3-1).
LOWER BALL JOINT
REPLACEMENT-
ARM
IN
VEHICLE
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK
III
1.
Raise
the
vehicle high enough
to
provide working space, leaving
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03-02-10
Suspension
03-02-10
lower
arm
free
to
drop
as
coil spring
tension
is
eased.
If a
chain hoist
or a
jack that
has
a
narrow contact
pad is
to
be
used
on the
bumper
to
raise
the
car, distribute
the
load along
the
bumper
by
using
a
steel plate
3 or 4
inches long
as a
contact
pad to pre-
vent damaging
the
bumper.
2.
If the
ball joint
is
riveted
to the
arm, drill
a
1/8-inch
pilot hole
com-
pletely through each rivet. Then drill
off
the
rivet head through
the
pilot
hole with
a
3/8-inch drill,
and
drive
out both rivets.
3.
Position
a
jack
or
safety stand
under
the
lower
arm, and
lower
the
vehicle about
6
inches
to
offset
the
coil spring tension.
4.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
ball joint stud,
and
remove
the nut.
5.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end
of the
tool shown
in
Fig.
7,
and position
the
tool.
The
tool should
seat firmly against
the end of
both
studs,
and
not
against
the
upper stud
nut.
6. Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone. Remove
the
ball
joint.
7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and
remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.
Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the
holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is
cracked.
8. Position
the
stud
of
the
ball joint
to
the
spindle bore,
and
install
the at-
taching
nut
finger-tight.
9. Attach
the
ball joint
to
the
lower
arm.
Use
only
the
specified bolts
and
nuts.
Do not
rivet
the new
ball joint
to
the
arm.
Torque nuts
to
specification.
10.
Torque
the
ball joint stud
nut
to specification,
and
install
a
new cot-
ter
pin.
11.
Remove
the
jack.
12.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust
caster, camber,
and
toe-in. Whenever
any part
of the
front suspension
has
been removed
and
installed, front
wheel alignment must
be
checked.
BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
The lower ball joint
is
riveted
to
the
lower
arm
wheras
the
upper ball joint
is bolted
to the
upper
arm.
When
re-
placing
a
ball joint,
use all the
parts
supplied
in the kit.
T57P-3006-A
UPPER
ARM
UPPER BALL JOINT
LOWER BALL JOINT
\
LOWER
ARM
T62F.3006-A
F
1493-A
FIG. 13— Loosening Ball Joint
Stud
Lower
Arm
1.
Raise
the
vehicle. Place
a sup-
port under each rail
to the
rear
of
the
lower
arm in the
lifting
pad
area.
2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from
the
hub.
3.
Remove
2
bolts
and
washers that
attach
the
caliper
to the
spindle.
Re-
move
the
caliper from
the
rotor
and
wire
it to the
underbody
to
prevent
damage
to the
brake hose.
4.
Remove
the hub and
rotor from
the spindle.
5.
Remove
the
splash shield
and
gasket from
the
spindle.
6. Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
lower ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut
one
to two
turns.
7.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end of the
ball joint remover
tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.
13.
The
tool should seat firmly against
the ends
of
both studs,
and not
against
the
lower stud
nut.
8. Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone.
9. Place
a
jack under
the
spring
pocket
in the
lower
arm, and
raise
the
arm slightly. Place
a
support stand
under
the
lower
arm as a
safety
pre-
caution.
10.
Remove
the nut
from
the
ball
joint stud. Raise
the
upper
arm and
spindle until
the
spindle clears
the
ball
stud. Prop
the
upper
arm in a
raised
position.
11.
Remove
the
ball -joint rivet
heads with
a
chisel. Punch
the
remain-
ing portion
of the
rivets from
the
holes,
and
remove
the
joint.
12.
Install
the
new
joint using
the
parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
the
nuts
to
specification. Make sure
the
joint
is
completely filled with
the
spec-
ified lubricant.
13.
Lower
the
upper
arm
while
guiding
the
spindle over
the
ball stud.
Install
the
stud
nut and
tighten
it to
specification. Continue
to
tighten
the
nut
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
In-
stall
the
cotter
pin.
14.
Install
the
gasket
and
shield
on
the spindle. Tighten
the
attaching
bolts
to
specifications.
15.
Install
the
hub and
rotor
on the
spindle
and
adjust
the
wheel bearings.
16.
Install
the
caliper
to
the
spindle
and tighten
the
attaching bolts
to
specifications. Check
for the
correct
flexible hose routing (Part
2-2).
17.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire.
Tor-
que
the
wheel nuts
to
specification
and
lower
the
vehicle.
Upper
Arm
1.
Place
a
jack under
the
outer
end
of
the
lower
arm,
and
raise
the arm.
Place
a
support stand under
the
side
rail
in the
lifting
pad
area.
2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire.
3.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
upper ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut
one
to two
turns.
%
4.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end of the
ball joint remover
tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.
13).
The
tool should seat firmly
against
the
ends
of
both studs,
and
not against
the
upper stud
nut.
5.
Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
upper stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone.
6. Raise
the
upper
arm to
free
the
ball stud from
the
spindle. Wire
the
upper
end
of
the
spindle
to the
under-
body
to
prevent damage
to the
brake
hose.
7.
Remove
the
ball joint retaining
nuts
and
bolts,
and
remove
the
joint.
8. Install
the new
joint using
the
parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
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