1969 FORD MUSTANG check oil

02-02-39
Brake System

02-02-39

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING

Minor scores on a brake drum can

be removed with sandpaper. A drum

that is excessively scored or shows a

total indicator runout of over 0.007

inch should be turned down. Remove

only enough stock to eliminate the

scores and true up the drum. The refi-

nished diameter must not exceed 0.060

inch oversize.

Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (Tool FRE-14^1).

If the drum diameter is less than

0.030 inch oversize after refinishing^

standard lining may be installed. If

the drum diameter is 0.030—0.060

inch oversize after refinishing, oversize

lining must be installed.

After a drum is turned down, wipe

the refinished surface with a cloth

soaked in clean denatured alcohol. If

one drum is turned down, the opposite

drum on the same axle should also be

cut down to the same size.

ROTOR REFINISHING

Rotunda Disc Brake Attachment,

FRE-2249-2, is the only recommended

tool to refinish the disc brake rotors.

The step-by-step resurfacing procedure

provided with the tool must be ad-

hered to.

The finished braking surfaces of the

rotor must be flat and parallel within

0.0007 inch; lateral runout must not

exceed 0.003 inch total indicator read-

ing, and the surface finish of the brak-

ing surfaces are to be 80/15 micro

inches. The minimum limiting dimen-

sions (Figs. 11 and 12, Part 2-1) from

the inboard bearing cup to the out-

board rotor face and from the inboard

bearing cup to the inboard rotor face

must be observed when removing ma-

terial from the rotor braking surfaces.

On all models except Lincoln Con-

tinental, the limiting dimensions are to

be measured with a ball and gage bar

(Rotunda Kit FRE-70160).

BRAKE SHOE RELINING

Brake linings that are worn to with-

in 1/32 inch of the rivet head or are

less than 0.030 inch thick (bonded lin-

ing) or have been contaminated with

brake fluid, grease or oil must be re-

placed. Failure to replace worn linings

will result in a scored drum. When it
is necessary to replace linings, they

must also be replaced on the wheel on

the opposite side of the vehicle.

Inspect brake shoes for distortion,

cracks, or looseness. If this condition

exists,
the shoe must be discarded. Do

not attempt to repair a defective brake

shoe.

1.
Wash the brake shoes thoroughly

in a clean solvent. Remove all burrs

or rough spots from the shoes.

2.
Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (tool FRE-1431). If the di-

ameter is less than 0.030 inches over-

size,
standard lining may be installed.

If the diameter is 0.030—0.060 inches

oversize, oversize lining should be in-

stalled.

3.
Position the new lining on the

shoe.
Starting in the center, insert and

secure the rivets, working alternately

towards each end. Replacement lin-

ings are ground and no further grind-

ing is required.

4.
Check the clearance between the

shoe and lining. The lining must seat

tightly against the shoe with not more

than 0.008 inch clearance between any

two rivets.

RETAINER - 2B245
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Clean the outside of the master

cylinder and remove the filler cover

and diaphragm. Pour out any brake

fluid that remains in the cylinder. Dis-

card the old brake fluid.

2.*
Remove the secondary piston

stop bolt from the bottom of the cyl-

inder (Figs. 40 and 41).

3.
Remove the bleed screw, iL re-

quired.

4.
Depress the primary piston and

remove the snap ring from the retain-

ing groove at the rear of the master

cylinder bore (Fig. 42). Remove the

push rod and the primary piston as-

sembly from the master cylinder bore.

Do not remove the screw that retains

the primary return spring retainer, re-

turn spring, primary cup and protec-

tor on the primary piston. This assem-

bly is factory pre-adjusted and should

not be disassembled.

5.
Remove the secondary piston as-

sembly. Do not remove the outlet tube

seats,
outlet check valves and outlet

SECONDARY SYSTEM

BRAKE OUTLET
COVER -2166

GASKET-2167

MASTER CYLINDER -2155

SNAP RING -7821

BOOT

PUSH ROD

PRIMARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2169

tTUBE SEAT-

2B220
* SECONDARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2A502

• NOT USED ON POWER BRAKE EQUIPPED VEHICLES

fNOT SERVICED

•REPLACE AS AN ASSEMBLY ONLY

H 1499-B

FIG. 40— Dual Master Cylinder Disassembled—Except Disc Brakesprocarmanuals.com

02-02-41
Brake System

02-02-41

bolt and G-ring in the bottom of the

master cylinder.

8. Install the bleed screw (if so

equipped). Install the gasket (dia-

phragm) in the master cylinder filler

cover. Position the gasket as shown in

Figs.
40 and 41. Make sure the gasket

is securely seated.

9. Install the cover and gasket on

the master cylinder and secure the

cover into position with the retainer.

DISC BRAKE CALIPER

ALL MODELS EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the vehicle as outlined in Section

2.

2.
Remove the caliper locating pins

from the caliper assembly and lift the

anchor plate from the caliper.

3.
Slide the two outer shoe retain-

ing clips off the retaining pins (Fig.

43).

4.
Remove the two retaining pins,

then remove the outer brake shoe

from the caliper.

5.
Slide the inner brake shoe out-

ward until it is free of the hold-down

springs, then remove the brake shoe.

6. Apply air pressure to the fluid

port in the caliper with a rubber

tipped nozzle (Tool 7000-DD) as

shown in Fig. 44 to remove the piston.

Place a cloth over the piston before

applying air pressure to prevent dam-

age to the piston. If the piston is

seized and cannot be forced from the

FIBER

BLOCK

CALIPER

PISTON

H 1574-B

FIG. 44 —Removing Piston From

Caliper —
All
Models Except

Lincoln Continental
caliper, tap lightly around the piston

while applying air pressure. Care

should be taken because the piston

can develop considerable force due to

pressure build-up.

7.
Remove the dust boot from the

caliper assembly.

8. Remove the rubber piston seal

from the cylinder and discard it.

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean all metal parts with isopropyl

alcohol or a suitable solvent. Use

clean, dry, compressed air to clean out

and dry the grooves and passage ways.

Be sure that the caliper bore and com-

ponent parts are completely free of

any foreign material.

Check the cylinder bore and piston

for damage or excessive wear. Replace

the piston if it is pitted, scored, or the

chrome plating is worn off.

Assembly

1.
Apply a film of clean brake fluid

to the new caliper piston seal and in-

stall it in the cylinder bore. Be sure

the seal does not become twisted and

that it is seated fully in the groove.

2.
Install a new dust boot by setting

the flange squarely in the outer groove

of the caliper bore.

3.
Coat the piston with the speci-

fied fluid and install the piston in the

cylinder bore. Spread the dust boot

over the piston as it is installed. Seat

the dust boot in the piston groove.

4.
Position the inner brake shoe so

that the ears of the shoe rests on the

top of the anchor plate bosses and be-

neath the hold-down springs.

5.
Install new caliper locating pin

insulators in the anchor plate.

6. Position the caliper on the an-

chor plate.

7.
Apply water or isopropyl alcohol

to the caliper locating pins and install

them loosely in the anchor plate. Be

sure the guide pins are free of oil,

grease or dirt.

8. Install the caliper on the spindle

as outlined under Disc Brake Caliper

Assembly.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Disassembly

Do not remove the bridge bolts that

hold the two halves of the caliper to-

gether. The two caliper housings are

shown separated in Fig. 46 for illus-

tration purposes only.
1.
Remove the caliper assembly

from the car as outlined in Section 2.

2.
Remove the two attaching bolts

and the caliper splash shield (Fig. 46).

3.
Remove the two shoe and lining

assemblies.

4.
Remove the flexible brake hose

from the caliper.

5.
Remove the external transfer

tube.

6. Remove the four dust boots from

the caliper housings and piston

grooves.

7.
Clamp the caliper in a vise and

secure it by the mounting flanges on

the inboard housing (Fig. 45).

8. Remove the four pistons from

the cylinder bores with the special tool

shown in Fig. 45. To prevent cocking

with consequent damage to the piston

or bore, rotate the piston with the tool

while pulling it outward at the same

time.
Be careful to avoid scratching or

damaging the outside diameter surface

or dust boot retaining groove of the

piston. Such damage causes poor seal-

ing.

If a piston is so completely seized in

the cylinder bore that it can not be re-

moved with the special tool, the cali-

per housing must be replaced, by posi-

tioning two screwdrivers in the piston

dust boot retaining groove and prying

outward. To prevent cocking, tap the

end of the piston lightly around the

circumference with a hammer, while

the prying force is being applied. Be

careful to avoid damaging the dust

boot retainer in the caliper housing

(Fig. 46). If this method of removal is

used, the pistons must be replaced.

If the caliper dust boot retainer or

retaining groove is damaged or

scratched, pry the retainer out of the

caliper housing with screwdrivers.

Too/-T65P-2
J
18- A

H 1652-A

FIG. 45—Removing or Installing

Pistons —
Lincoln
Continentalprocarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-09

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball

joint.

LOWER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental

and Continental Mark III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place

jacks under the lower arms as shown

in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower

ball joints.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-

cribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

lower arm and position the indicator

so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the lower ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball

joint.

Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,

Montego, Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the lower end of the

spindle and the lower arm.

4.
Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the lower

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the lower arm.

During the foregoing check, the

upper ball joint will be unloaded and

may move. Disregard all such move-

ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do

not mistake loose wheel bearings for a

worn ball joint.

POWER STEERING GEAR

CLEANING

Disassembly and assembly of the

steering gear and. the sub-assemblies

must be made on a clean workbench.

As in repairing any hydraulically op-

erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

unit with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid as possible. Handle all

parts very carefully to avoid nicks,

burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could

make the parts unfit for use.

Do not clean, wash or soak seals in

cleaning solvent.

INSPECTION

1.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the cover for wear. If worn,

replace the cover.

2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing

for cracked races and the balls for

looseness, wear, pitting, end play or

other damage. Check the fit of the

bearing on the input shaft. Replace

the bearing, if required.

3.
Inspect the valve housing for

wear, scoring or burrs.

4.
Inspect the tube seats in the

pressure and return ports in the valve

body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-

move and replace.

5.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the housing for wear. If

worn, replace the bushing or the hous-

ing.

6. Check all fluid passages for ob-

struction or leakage.

7.
Inspect the steering gear housing

for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-

ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-

ton bore of the housing for scoring or

wear. If necessary, replace the hous-

ing.

8. Check the input shaft bearing

after installation to be sure that it ro-

tates freely.

9. If the valve spool is not free in

the valve housing, check for burrs at

the outward edges of the working

lands in the housing and remove with

a hard stone. Check the valve spool

for burrs and if burrs are found, stone

the valve in a radial direction only.

Check for freedom of the valve again.

10.
Check the piston rack teeth and

sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.

FLUSHING THE POWER

STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Should it be necessary to replace an

inoperative power steering pump, the

need for flushing the steering system

is required when installing the new

pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump

and remove the pulley as outlined in

Part 3-10.

2.
Install the pulley on a new

pump. Install the pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump

(Part 3-10).

3.
Place the fluid return line in a

suitable container and plug the reser-

voir return pipe.

4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant

(C1AZ-19582-A).

5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-

vent the engine from starting and raise

the front wheels off the ground.

6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being poured

into the reservoir, turn the engine over

using the ignition key, at the same

time cycle the steering wheel from

stop to stop.

7.
As soon as all of the lubricant

has been poured in, turn off the igni-

tion key, and attach the coil wire.

8. Remove the plug from the reser-

voir return pipe, and attach the return

hose to the reservoir.

9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if

low, add fluid to the proper level. Do

not overfill.

10.
Lower the vehicle.

11.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering from stop to stop to expel

any trapped air from the system.

POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL

EXCEPT LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

CLEANING

Wash all parts (except seals) in a

Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent

and dry with compressed air.

Punch or Rod

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

G1607-A

FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com

03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-10

The following procedure should be

followed when cleaning the relief valve

which is a part of the pump valve as-

sembly.

1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable

diameter, apply an even pressure in a

straight line to the tip of the relief

valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve

two or three times to exhaust the oil

which is trapped in the assembly. Do

not hammer on the valve pin or hous-

ing.

2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-

tainer of clean solvent. Again applying

an even pressure to the tip of the relief

valve pin, (a sudden strong force could

push the pin through the relief valve

spool) move the valve in and out sev-

eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing

the assembly. Pressure created within

the valve bore when the valve is moved

inward should force the cleaning fluid

out through the sensing orifice. If this

does not occur, the sensing orifice

should be cleaned with a piece of wire.

The valve must move freely and even-

ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if

the valve binds, the pump valve must

be replaced.

INSPECTION

The following describes the compo-

nents of the power steering pump

which must be replaced regardless of

condition and how to determine when

other components should be replaced.

The outlet fitting hex nut may be

reused if the corners of the hex are

not rounded. The housing bolts may

be reused if the threads are not dam-

aged.

All gaskets and seals must be re-

placed with new components except

the rotor shaft seal which should be

reused unless it was leaking.

The reservoir assembly may be

reused if the reservoir seal and gasket

areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-

es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-

turn and fill tubes must not be loose

or bent. Be sure to check for a broken

baffle.

The housing or housing assembly

may be reused if there is no damage

(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,

outlet fitting or cover seal areas.

If the outlet fitting is damaged, the

pump housing must be replaced. The

pressure plate springs may be reused

providing they are not bent, broken or

have not taken a set.

Do not reuse the retainer end plate

if it is burred or damaged. The upper

pressure plate may be reused if there

is no scoring on the wear surface. It is

acceptable to polish the phosphate

coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be

reused if there is no wear other than

the removal of the phosphate coating

on the cam contour. Do not disas-

semble the rotor and cam assembly.

Push the rotor part way out the cam

insert taking care not to let the slip-

pers and springs fall out. Check the

cam ID for scoring and burning.

Check the rotor faces and OD for

scoring and chipping. Do not attempt

to repair or refinish the lower and

upper pressure plates, cam or rotor

assembly. When wear or burning is

encountered, replace, them with new

components.

Install a new rotor and cam assem-

bly if the slippers are worn. Replace

the springs if they are bent or broken.

Polishing the phosphate coating of the

slipper sealing surface is permissable.

The rotor shaft can be reused if the

front and rear thrust faces, the bush-

ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-

ter are not excessively worn or scored.

The housing plate and bushing as-

sembly may be reused if all of the

threaded holes are not damaged

beyond repair and the bushing diame-

ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch

over the maximum dimension of .6897

inch. Threaded holes can be repaired

by drilling out the damaged threads

and installing a helicoil insert. If the

bushing is scored or excessively worn,

a new plate and bushing assembly

must be installed.

With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a

dial indicator) check the squareness of

the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.

21).
The pin must be square with the

adjacent surface within .001 inch per

inch through a 180 degree arch.

A bent or broken dowel pin can be

replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a

horizontal position and grip at least

an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap

the plate with a plastic or a rubber

hammer to pull the pin from the

plate.

2.
Insert the support guide (Tool

T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.

22) and press the pin into the plate to

a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).

The support guide tool will serve as a

stop guide. Be careful not to bend the

new dowel pin during installation.

3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A

(with a dial indicaator) to check the

dowel pin squareness as outlined

above.

POWER STEERING PUMP

INSPECTION—LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent

and dry them with clean cloths or

compressed air.

2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,

scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the

shaft if it is damaged or if the inner

keyway is damaged.

Tool
T69P-3D608-B

G1609-A

FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion

Tool
T69P-3D608-A

G1608-A

FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness

Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com

03-02-10
Suspension

03-02-10

lower
arm
free
to
drop
as
coil spring

tension
is
eased.
If a
chain hoist
or a

jack that
has
a
narrow contact
pad is

to
be
used
on the
bumper
to
raise
the

car, distribute
the
load along
the

bumper
by
using
a
steel plate
3 or 4

inches long
as a
contact
pad to pre-

vent damaging
the
bumper.

2.
If the
ball joint
is
riveted
to the

arm, drill
a
1/8-inch
pilot hole
com-

pletely through each rivet. Then drill

off
the
rivet head through
the
pilot

hole with
a
3/8-inch drill,
and
drive

out both rivets.

3.
Position
a
jack
or
safety stand

under
the
lower
arm, and
lower
the

vehicle about
6
inches
to
offset
the

coil spring tension.

4.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

ball joint stud,
and
remove
the nut.

5.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end
of the
tool shown
in
Fig.
7,

and position
the
tool.
The
tool should

seat firmly against
the end of
both

studs,
and
not
against
the
upper stud

nut.

6. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone. Remove
the
ball

joint.

7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and

remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.

Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the

holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is

cracked.

8. Position
the
stud
of
the
ball joint

to
the
spindle bore,
and
install
the at-

taching
nut
finger-tight.

9. Attach
the
ball joint
to
the
lower

arm.
Use
only
the
specified bolts
and

nuts.
Do not
rivet
the new
ball joint
to

the
arm.
Torque nuts
to
specification.

10.
Torque
the
ball joint stud
nut

to specification,
and
install
a
new cot-

ter
pin.

11.
Remove
the
jack.

12.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust

caster, camber,
and
toe-in. Whenever

any part
of the
front suspension
has

been removed
and
installed, front

wheel alignment must
be
checked.

BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

The lower ball joint
is
riveted
to
the

lower
arm
wheras
the
upper ball joint

is bolted
to the
upper
arm.
When
re-

placing
a
ball joint,
use all the
parts

supplied
in the kit.
T57P-3006-A
UPPER
ARM

UPPER BALL JOINT

LOWER BALL JOINT
\
LOWER
ARM

T62F.3006-A
F
1493-A

FIG. 13— Loosening Ball Joint

Stud

Lower
Arm

1.
Raise
the
vehicle. Place
a sup-

port under each rail
to the
rear
of
the

lower
arm in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from

the
hub.

3.
Remove
2
bolts
and
washers that

attach
the
caliper
to the
spindle.
Re-

move
the
caliper from
the
rotor
and

wire
it to the
underbody
to
prevent

damage
to the
brake hose.

4.
Remove
the hub and
rotor from

the spindle.

5.
Remove
the
splash shield
and

gasket from
the
spindle.

6. Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

lower ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

7.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13.
The
tool should seat firmly against

the ends
of
both studs,
and not

against
the
lower stud
nut.

8. Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

9. Place
a
jack under
the
spring

pocket
in the
lower
arm, and
raise
the
arm slightly. Place
a
support stand

under
the
lower
arm as a
safety
pre-

caution.

10.
Remove
the nut
from
the
ball

joint stud. Raise
the
upper
arm and

spindle until
the
spindle clears
the
ball

stud. Prop
the
upper
arm in a
raised

position.

11.
Remove
the
ball -joint rivet

heads with
a
chisel. Punch
the
remain-

ing portion
of the
rivets from
the

holes,
and
remove
the
joint.

12.
Install
the
new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
the

nuts
to
specification. Make sure
the

joint
is
completely filled with
the
spec-

ified lubricant.

13.
Lower
the
upper
arm
while

guiding
the
spindle over
the
ball stud.

Install
the
stud
nut and
tighten
it to

specification. Continue
to
tighten
the

nut
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
In-

stall
the
cotter
pin.

14.
Install
the
gasket
and
shield
on

the spindle. Tighten
the
attaching

bolts
to
specifications.

15.
Install
the
hub and
rotor
on the

spindle
and
adjust
the
wheel bearings.

16.
Install
the
caliper
to
the
spindle

and tighten
the
attaching bolts
to

specifications. Check
for the
correct

flexible hose routing (Part
2-2).

17.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire.
Tor-

que
the
wheel nuts
to
specification
and

lower
the
vehicle.

Upper
Arm

1.
Place
a
jack under
the
outer
end

of
the
lower
arm,
and
raise
the arm.

Place
a
support stand under
the
side

rail
in the
lifting
pad
area.

2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire.

3.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

upper ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut

one
to two
turns.

%
4.
Place
a box
wrench over
the

lower
end of the
ball joint remover

tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.

13).
The
tool should seat firmly

against
the
ends
of
both studs,
and

not against
the
upper stud
nut.

5.
Turn
the
wrench until both studs

are under tension,
and
then, with
a

hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the

upper stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the

spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with

tool pressure alone.

6. Raise
the
upper
arm to
free
the

ball stud from
the
spindle. Wire
the

upper
end
of
the
spindle
to the
under-

body
to
prevent damage
to the
brake

hose.

7.
Remove
the
ball joint retaining

nuts
and
bolts,
and
remove
the
joint.

8. Install
the new
joint using
the

parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
theprocarmanuals.com

03-02-16
Suspension

03-02-16

2.
Place a jack under the outer end

of the arm.

3.
Tape the upper and lower spring

insulators to the spring.

4.
Compress the coil spring with

Tool 5310-A (Fig. 23) and place the

spring and insulators in position. Be

sure both ends of the spring are prop-

erly seated, and raise the arm. Guide

the spindle boss over the ball joint

stud.

5.
Install the ball joint stud retain-

ing nut and torque it to specification.

Continue tightening the nut to line up

the cotter pin hole. Install a new cot-

ter pin.

6. Connect the stabilizer bar to the

lower arm. Torque the nut to specifi-

cation.

7.
Connect the drag strut to the

lower arm. Torque the nuts to specifi-

cation.

8. Install the shock absorber.

9. Tighten the splash shield attach-

ing bolts to specifications.

10.
Install the hub and rotor on the

spindle and adjust the wheel bearings.

11.
Install the caliper to the spindle

and tighten the attaching bolts to

specifications. Check for the correct

flexible hose routing (Part 2-2).

12.
Install the wheel and tire on the

hub.
Torque the wheel lug nuts to

specifications and remove the support

stands.

13.
With the front end weight of

the car on the wheels, torque the

lower arm-to-crossmember bolt at-

taching nut to specification.

FRONT SUSPENSION

LOWER ARM

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Removal

1.
Raise the front of the vehicle and

position safety stands under both sides

of the frame just back of the lower

arms.

2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel

cover.

3.
If equipped with drum type

brakes—Remove the wheel and tire

and brake drum as an assembly. Re-

move the brake backing plate attach-

ing bolts and remove the backing

plate from the spindle. Wire the back-

ing plate to the underbody to prevent

damage to the brake hose.

4.
If equipped with disc brakes-

—Remove the wheel and tire from the
•Tool—5310-A

F 1491-A

FIG. 23—Coil Spring Compressed

for Installation

F1437-A

FIG. 24—Removing Front Spring

—Lower Arm Replacement

hub.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that

attach the caliper and brake hose to

the spindle. Remove the caliper from

the rotor and wire it to the underbody

to prevent damage to the brake hose.

Then, remove the hub and rotor from

the spindle.

5.
Disconnect the lower end of the

shock absorber, and push it up to the

retracted position.

6. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link

from the lower arm.

7.
Remove the cotter pins from the

upper and lower ball joint stud nuts.

8. Remove 2 bolts and nuts attach-

ing the strut to the lower arm.

9. Loosen the lower ball joint stud

nut one or two turns. Do not remove

the nut from the stud at this time.

10.
Install Tool T57P-3OO6-A bet-

ween the upper and lower ball joint

studs (Fig. 7). The tool should be

seated firmly against the ends of both

studs and not against the stud nuts.

11.
With a wrench, turn the adapter

screw until the tool places the stud

under tension. Tap the spindle near

the lower stud with a hammer to loos-
en the stud in the spindle. Do not

loosen the stud from the spindle with

tool pressure only.

12.
Position a floor jack under the

lower arm (Fig. 24) and remove the

lower ball joint stud nut.

13.
Lower the floor jack and re-

move the sprina and insulator (Fie.

25).

14.
Remove one nut and bolt at-

taching the lower control arm to the

No.
2 crossmember and remove the

lower arm (Fig. 24).

Installation

1.
Position the lower arm to the

No.
2 crossmember and loosely install

the attaching bolt and nut (Fig. 1).

2.
Position the spring and insulator

to the upper spring pad and lower

arm. Using a floor jack, compress the

spring and guide the lower ball joint

stud into the spindle hole.

3.
Install the ball joint stud attach-

ing nut and torque to specification.

Continue to tighten the nut until the

cotter pin hole is in line with the nut

slots.
Install a cotter pin in the upper

and lower ball joint studs.

4.
Pull the shock absorber down

and connect it to the lower arm.

5.
Position the strut and bumper to

the lower arm. Install the attaching

bolts and nuts and torque to specifica-

tion.

6. Torque the lower arm to No. 2

crossmember attaching bolt and nut to

specifications.

7.
Position the stabilizer bar link to

the lower arm and install the attach-

ing nuts.

8. If equipped with drum type

brakes—Position the brake backing

plate to the spindle and install the at-

taching bolts. Torque the bolts to spe-

cification. Adjust the brakes as out-

lined in Group 2. Install the wheel,

tire,
and drum to the spindle and ad-

just the wheel bearings as outlined in

Part 3-12.

If equipped with disc brakes-Install

the hub and rotor on the spindle.

Position the caliper over the rotor and

install the attaching bolts. Torque the

bolts to specification. Install the

wheel and tire on the wheel hub and

adjust the wheel bearings as outlined in

Part 3-12.

9. Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

10.
Remove the safety stands and'

lower the vehicle.

11.
Check the caster, camber, and

toe-in and adjust as required (Section

2,
Part 3-1).procarmanuals.com

03-02-18
Suspension

03-02-18

5.
Remove the cotter pin from the

upper ball joint stud nut.

6. Loosen the upper ball joint stud

nut one or two turns. Do not remove

the nut from the stud at this time.

7.
Install tool T57P-3006-A be-

tween the upper and lower ball joint

studs with the adapter screw on top

(Fig. 13). The tool should be seated

firmly against the ends of both studs

and not against the nuts or lower stud

cotter pin.

8. With a wrench, turn the adapter

screw until the tool places the stua

under tension. Tap the spindle near

the upper stud with a hammer to loos-

en the stud in the spindle. Do not

loosen the stud from the spindle with

tool pressure only.

9. Remove the tool from between

the ball joint studs and place a floor

jack under the lower arm.

10.
Raise the floor jack to relieve

the pressure from the upper ball joint

stud nut and remove the nut.

11.
Remove the upper arm inner

shaft attaching bolts. Remove the

upper arm and inner shaft as an as-

sembly (Fig. 1).

12.
Remove the bumpei from the

upper arm.

Installation

1.
Position the bumper to the upper

arm and install the nut and washer.

Torque the nut to specifications.

2.
Position the upper arm inner

shaft to the frame side rail and install

the 2 attaching bolts and washers

snug.

3.
Connect the upper ball joint stud

to the spindle and install the attaching

nut. Torque the nut to specification

and continue to tighten the nut until

the cotter pin hole in the stud is in

line with the nut slots. Then, install

the cotter pin.

4.
If equipped with drum type bra-

kes—Adjust the brakes as outlined in

Part 2-2. Install the wheel, tire, and

drum to the spindle and adjust the

wheel bearings as outlined in Part

3-12.

5.
If equipped with disc brak-

es—Install the wheel and tire on the

hub and adjust the wheel bearings as

outlined in Part 3-12.

6. Install the hub cap or wheel

cover.

7.
Remove the safety stands and

lower the front of the vehicle.

8. Check caster, camber, and toe-in

and adjust as required (Section 2, Part

3-D.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

Removal

1.
Raise the front of the vehicle,

position safety stands under the

frame, and lower the vehicle slightly.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the shock absorber

lower attaching nuts and washers.

4.
Remove the shock absorber

upper mounting bracket attaching

nuts,
and remove the shock absorber

and bracket as an assembly (Fig. 26).

On all 8-cylinder vehicles, remove

the air cleaner to obtain access for

tool installation.

5.
Install the spring compressor

tool and compress the spring (Figs.

19,
20 and 21).

6. Position a safety stand under the

lower arm.

7.
Remove the cotter pin from the

nut on the upper ball joint stud, and

loosen the nut one or two turns. Do

not remove the nut from the stud at

this time.

8. Position the ball joint remover

tool between the upper and lower ball

joint studs as shown in Fig. 10. The

tool should seat firmly against the

ends of both studs and not against the

stud nuts.

9. Turn the tool with a wrench until

the tool places the studs under consid-

erable tension; then, hit the spindle

smartly near the upper stud with a

hammer to break the stud loose in the

spindle. Do not loosen the stud in the

spindle with tool pressure only. If

both arms are being removed, loosen

the lower stud in the same manner as

the upper stud.

10.
Remove the nut from the upper

stud and lift the stud out of the

spindle.

11.
Remove the upper arm inner

shaft attaching nuts from the engine

compartment, and remove the upper

arm.

12.
Wipe off all loose dirt from the

upper arm parts. Do not wash the ball

joint with a solvent.

Installation

1.
Position the upper arm on the

underbody mounting bracket, and in-

stall the nuts and lock washers on the

two inner shaft attaching bolts. The

specified keystone-type lock washers

must be used. Torque the nuts to

soecification.
2.
Position the upper ball joint stud

in the top of the wheel spindle, and in-

stall the stud nut. Torque the nut to

specification, and continue to tighten

it until the cotter pin hole and slots

line up. Install a new cotter pin.

3.
Release the coil spring, remove

the tool, and install the front shock

absorber and the wheel and tire.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Place a jack under the outer end

of the suspension lower arm and raise

the arm. Refer to Fig. 22.

2.
Remove the wheel and tire.

3.
Remove the cotter pin from the

upper ball joint stud. Loosen the nut

one or two turns.

4.
Place a box wrench over the

lower end of the ball joint remover

tool, and position the tool as in Fig.

13.
The tool should seat firmly against

the ends of both studs, and not

against the upper stud nut.

5.
Turn the wrench until both studs

are under tension, and then, tap the

spindle with a hammer near the upper

stud to loosen it from the spindle. Do

not loosen the stud with tool pressure

alone. Remove the nut.

UPPER MOUNTING BRACKET

LOWER RETAINING BOLTS F 1490-A

FIG. 26—Removing or Installing

Front Shock Absorber—Typicalprocarmanuals.com

03-02-21
Suspension

03-02-21

8. Place a box wrench over the

lower end of the ball joint remover

tool, and position the tool as in Fig.

13.
The tool should seat firmly against

the ends of both studs, and not

against the stud nuts.

9. Turn the wrench until both studs

are under tension, and then, tap the

spindle with a hammer near the studs

to loosen them from the spindle. Do

not loosen
the
studs with tool pressure

alone.

10.
Place a jack under the outer

end of the lower arm, and raise the

arm several inches. Remove both ball

stud nuts, and remove t^e spindle.

Installation

1.
Position the new spindle onto the

upper and lower ball joint studs, in-

stall the stud nuts and tighten the nuts

to specifications. Continue to tighten

both nuts until the cotter pin holes

line up with the slots, then install new

cotter pines.

2.
Connect the spindle connecting

rod to the spindle arm. Install the re-

taining nut and tighten the nut to

specification. Continue to tighten the

nut until the cotter pin hole lines up

with the slot, then install a new cotter

pin.

3.
Install the gasket and splash

shield on the spindle. Tighten the at-

taching bolts to specifications.

4.
Install the hub and rotor on the

spindle.

5.
Install the caliper to the spindle

and tighten the attaching bolts to spe-

cifications. Check for the correct flex-

ible hose routing (Part 2-2).

6. Install the wheel and tire and ad-

just the wheel bearings (Part 3-12).

7.
Lubricate the steering stop on

the lower arm and the mating flat on

the spindle with the specified lubri-

cant.

8. Remove the safety stands, lower

the car and check camber, caster and

toe-in.

FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Remove the nut, washer, and

bushing from the shock absorber

upper end.

2.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist and

install safety stands.
3.
Remove 2 bolts attaching the

shock absorber to the lower arm and

remove the shock absorber.

4.
Place a washer and bushing on

the shock absorber top stud and posi-

tion the shock absorber inside the

front spring. Install the 2 lower at-

taching bolts and torque them to spe-

cifications.

5.
Remove the safety stands and

lower the vehicle.

6. Place a bushing and washer on

the shock absorber top stud and in-

stall the attaching nut. Torque it to

specification.

COUGAR, FAIRLANE,

FALCON, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG

Removal

1. Raise the hood and remove 3

shock absorber upper mounting

bracket-to-spring tower attaching

nuts.

2.
Raise the front of the vehicle and

place safety stands under the lower

arms.

3.
Remove 2 shock absorber lower

attaching nuts and washers.

4.
Lift the shock absorber and

upper bracket from the spring tower

(Fig. 26) and remove the bracket from

the shock absorber.

Installation

1. Install the upper mounting

bracket on the shock absorber and

torque to specification.

2.
Position the shock absorber and

upper mounting bracket in the spring

tower, making sure the shock absor-

ber lower studs are in the pivot plate

holes.

3.
Install the 2 washers and attach-

ing nuts on the shock absorber lower

studs and torque to specification.

4.
Install the 3 shock absorber

upper mounting bracket-to-spring

tower attaching nuts and torque to

specification. Then, remove the safety

stands and lower the vehicle.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Remove the stud nut at the

upper eye of the shock absorber. Re-

move the upper eye stud bracket to

crossmember attaching bolt and re-

move the stud bracket. Refer to Fig.

22.
2.
Remove the bolts which attach

the shock absorber to the suspension

lower arm. Lower, and remove the

shock absorber.

3.
Examine the shock absorber unit

and rubber bushings. Replace parts

that are defective, deteriorated, or

worn.

Installation

1. Fully extend the shock absorber

and position it inside the coil spring.

Connect the lower end of the shock

absorber to the suspension lower arm.

Torque the attaching nuts to specifica-

tion.

2.
Insert the upper bracket stud

through the bushing in the shock ab-

sorber upper eye. Install the stud

bracket to crossmember attaching

bolt. Do not tighten the bolt: at this

time.

3.
Install the upper eye bracket

stud nut. Torque the nut to specifica-

tion.

4.
Torque the stud bracket- to-

crossmember attaching bolt to specifi-

cation.
The
shock absorber upper
eye

stud
nut
must
be
tightened
to com-

press
the
rubber bushing before
the

stud bracket
is
bolted
to the

crossmember;
otherwise,
the
upper
at-

tachment could
be
loose
and
noisy.

REAR SHOCK ABSORBER

REPLACEMENT

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,

CONTINENTAL MARK 1(11

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.

2.
Remove the shock absorber at-

taching nut, washer and insulator

from the upper stud at the upper side

of the spring upper seat. Compress the

shock absorber to clear the hole in the

spring seat, and remove the inner in-

sulator and washer from the upper at-

taching stud.

3.
Remove the self-locking attach-

ing nut, and disconnect the shock ab-

sorber lower stud from the mounting

bracket on the rear axle housing (Fig.

4).

4.
Expel all air by performing step

3 On Vehicle Tests in Part 3-1.

5.
Place the inner washer and insu-

lator on the upper attaching stud, and

position the shock absorber so that

the upper attaching stud enters the

hole in the spring upper seat. While

holding the shock absorber in this po-

sition, install the outer insulator andprocarmanuals.com