1967 CHEVROLET CAMARO ESP

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-3

DETENT CAM

DETENT SPRING

DETENT CAM

2-3 SHIFT

FORK

DETENT CAM

PIVOT PIN

1ST & REV. 1ST& REV.

SHIFTER SHAFT SHIFT FORK

DETENT CAM

RETAINER RING
2-3 SHIFTER SHAFT

Fig. 3A
•*
Transmission Side Cover, Shift Fork and Detent Assembly

5. Reinstall propeller shaft and any items removed to

obtain clearance.

TRANSMISSION SIDE COVER

Removal •

1.
Disconnect control rods from levers; remove 2-3

cross shaft (Chevrolet)

2.
Shift transmission into neutral detent positions before

removing cover.

3.
Remove cover assembly from transmission case

carefully and allow oil to drain.
Disassembly (Fig. 3A)

1.
Remove the outer shifter levers.

2.
Remove both shift forks from shifter shaft assem-

blies.
Remove both shifter shaft assemblies from

cover. "OM ring seals around shifter shaft may now

be pryed out if replacement is required because of

damage.

3.
Remove detent cam spring and pivot retainer "C"

ring. Remove both detent cams.

4.
Replace damaged parts.

Assembly (Fig. 3A)

1.
With,
detent spring tang projecting up over the
2nd
and

3rd shifter shaft cover opening install the first and

reverse detent cam onto the detent cam pivot pin.

With the detent spring tang projecting up over the

first and reverse shifter shaft cover hole install the

2nd an£ 3rd detent cam.

2.
Install detent cam retaining "C" ring to pivot shaft,

and hook spring into detent cam notches.

3.
Install both shifter shaft assemblies in cover being

careful not to damage seals. Install both shift forks

to shifter shaft assemblies^ lifting up on detent cam

to allow forks to fully seat into position.

4.
Install outer shifter levers, flat washers, lock wash-

ers and bolts.

Installation

1.
Shift shifter levers into neutral detent (center) posi-

tion.
Position cover gasket on case.

2.
Carefully position side cover into place making sure'

the shift forks are aligned with their respective

mainshaft clutch sliding sleeves.

3.
Install cover attaching bolts and tighten evenly to

specified torque.

4.
Remove filler plug and add lubricant specified in

Section 0, to level of filler plug hole.

COMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT

TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENT (EXC. CORVETTE)

Removal From Vehicle

1.
Remove propeller shaft assembly.

2.
Disconnect speedometer cable at transmission.

3.
Disconnect shifter rods at transmission levers.

4.
Support engine assembly.

5. Remove transmission to clutch housing bolts.

6. Remove transmission crossmember to mount bolts.

7. Loosen transmission crossmember and move rear-

ward or remove.

8. Slide transmission rearward and remove.

Installation in Vehicle

1.
Raise transmission into position and slide forward

piloting clutch gear retainer into clutch housing.

2.
Install transmission to clutch housing retaining bolts

and lock washers, torque to 50 ft. lbs.

3.
Repositioning transmission crossmember and install

retaining bolts.

4.
Install transmission crossmember to mount bolts.

5. Connect and adjust shift rods at transmission levers

and cordon shaft to 2nd and 3rd lever on Chevrolet

Models. (Fig. 4A)
Fig. 4A - Chevrolet 2-3 Shift Lever Cordon Shaft

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-12

DIAGNOSIS-OVERDRIVE

MECHANICAL

Any one of the following general complaints may be due

to non-standard mechanical conditions in the overdrive

unit:

1.
Does not drive unless locked up manually.

2.
Does not engage, or lock-up does not release.

3.
Engages with a severe jolt, or noise.

4.
Free-wheels at speeds over 30 mph.

These^ troubles may be diagnosed and remedied as de-

scribed in the following paragraphs.

1.
Does not drive unless locked up manually.

a. Occasionally, the unit may not drive the car for-

ward in direct drive, unless locked up by pulling

the dash control. This may be caused by one or

more broken rollers in the roller clutch, the

remedy for which is the replacement of the entire

set of rollers.

b.
This may also be caused by sticking of the roller

retainer upon the cam. This retainer must move

freely to push the rollers into engaging position,

under the pressure of the two actuating springs.

c. Sometimes this is due to slight indentations, worn

in the cam faces by the rollers spinning, remedied

by replacement of the cam.

2.
Does not engage, or lock-up does not release

.. a. Dash control improperly connected—-Unless the

overdrive dash control wire is connected to the

lockup lever on the left side of the overdrive

housing in such a manner as to move the lever

all the way back when the dash control knob is

pushed in, it may hold the shift rail in such a po-

sition as to interlock the pawl against full engage-

ment resulting in a buzzing noise when overdrive

engagement is attempted.

To correctly make this connection, loosen bind-

ing post at lever, pull dash control knob out 1/4",

move lever all the way to the rear, and tighten

binding post.

b.
Transmission and overdrive improperly aligned—

The same symptoms as above may also result

from misalignment, at assembly, of the overdrive

housing to the transmission case, resulting in

binding of the overdrive shift rail, so that the re-

tractor spring cannot move the rail fully forward,

when the dash control knob is pushed in, and the

transmission is not in reverse. Under such con-

ditions, the unit may remain fully locked up.

To test for this, be sure that the transmission

is not in reverse; disconnect the dash control

wire from the lockup lever, and feel the lever for

free forward movement. If the lever can be

moved forward more than 1/4", it indicates that

misalignment probably exists. To correct this,

Jposen the capscrews between the overdrive hous-

ing and transmission case, and tap the adpater

plate and overdrive housing until a position is

found where the rail shifts freely; tighten cap-

screws.

c. Kickdown switch improperly adjusted—The posi-

tion of the kickdown switch should be adjusted,

by means of the two large nuts which clamp the

switch shank, so the switch plunger travels 3/16"
before the throttle lever touches its stop.

Occasionally the large nuts which clamp the

switch through the switch bracket are tightened

sufficiently to bend the switch shank, thus pre-

venting free motion of the switch stem. This may

usually be remedied by loosening the upper of the

two nuts.

d. Improper installation of solenoid—If car cannot

be rolled backward under any circumstances and

there is no relay click when the ignition is turned

on, it probably indicates that the solenoid has

been installed directly, without twisting into the

bayonet lock between solenoid stem and pawl, thus

jamming the pawl permanently into overdrive en-

gagement. If the car will occasionally roll back-

wards, but not always, (and there is no relay click

when the ignition switch is turned on) it may indi-

cate that, upon installation, the bayonet lock was

caught, and the solenoid forcibly twisted into

alignment with the attaching flange, thus shearing

off the internal keying of the solenoid. Under

these circumstances, the end of the solenoid stem

may not catch in the pawl, and upon release of the

solenoid, the pawl will not be withdrawn promptly

from engagement, but simply drift out. If the

solenoid stem end has its two flats exactly facing

the two solenoid flange holes, it will not withdraw

the pawl properly. If the stem can be rotated

when grasped by a pair of pliers, it indicates that

the internal keying has been sheared.

e. Improper positioning of blocker ring—Occasion-

ally, either in assembly at the factory, or in

service operations in the field, the internal parts

of the overdrive unit may have been rotated with

the solenoid pawl removed, causing the blocker

ring to rotate, so that its two lugs are not located

with respect to- the pawl as shown in Figure 12B.

In other words, the solid portion of the blocker

ring may be in alignment with the pawl, which will

prevent fill} engagement of the pawl with the sun

gear control plate/

To test for this condition, remove solenoid

cover, pull dash control knob out, roll car 2 ft.

forward. Push dash control in, turn ignition

switch on. Then ground the "KD" terminal of

relay, and watch movement of center stem of

solenoid. It should not move more than 1/8" when

the solenoid clicks. Then, with the relay terminal

still grounded, shift into low gear, and roll car

forward by hand. Solenoid stem should then move

an additional 3/8", as the pawl engages fully.

These two tests indicate proper blocker action.

Unless both tests are met, the blocker ring is

probably not in the correct position.

3.
Engages with a severe jolt or noise

Insufficient blocker ring friction may cause the ring

to lose its grip on the hub of the sun gear control

plate. Check the fit and tension of the ring as de-

scribed under "Cleaning and Inspection".

4.
Free-wheels at speeds over 30 MPH

If cam roller retainer spring tension is weak the unit

will free wheel at all times. Check spring action as

described under "Cleaning and Inspection".

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSIONS 7-19

2.
With handle in full down position—adjust cable to ac-

quire dimension shown, be certain that cable is pulled

taut.

3.
Tighten set screw to 15-20 in. lbs.

4.
Bend excess wire and cut - be certain that wire does

not interfere with I.D. of lever or threads of shifter

knob.

NOTE: Handle must return freely from any

position.

SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN GEAR AND OIL SEAL

Replacement

Disconnect speedometer cable, remove retainer to

housing bolt and lock washer and remove retainer. In-

sert screw driver in slot in fitting and pry fitting, gear

and shaft from housing. Pry "O" ring in groove in fitting.

Install new "O" ring in groove and insert shaft Hold

the assembly so slot in fitting is toward boss on housing

and install in housing. Push fitting into housing until re-

tainer can be inserted in groove and install retainer lock

washer and bolt.
Fig.
5M - Installing Side Cover Assembly

TRANSMISSION SIDE COVER

Removal

1.
Disconnect control rods from levers.

2.
Shift transmission into second speed before removing

cover, by moving 1-2 (Rear Cover) shifter lever into

forward detent position.

3.
Remove cover assembly -from transmission case

carefully and allow oil to drain.

Disassembly (Fig. 4M)

1.
Remove the outer shifter lever nuts,*lock washers

and flat washers. Pull levers from shafts.

2.
Remove both shift forks from shifter shaft and detent

plate assemblies. Remove both shifter shaft assem-

blies from cover. Lip seals in side cover may now

be pryed out if replacement is required because of

damage.

1-2 DETENT CAM DETENT SPRING
3-4 DETENT CAM

1-2 SHIFTER SHAFT

1-2 SHIFT FORK
3-4 SHIFT

FORK

DETENT CAM \ 3-4 SHIFTER SHAFT

RETAINER RING

DETENT CAM PIVOT PIN
3.
Remove detent cam spring and pivot retainer "C"

ring. Remove both detent cams.

4.
Replace necessary parts.

Assembly (Fig. 4M)

1.
Install 1-2 detent cam to cover pivot pin first, then

install 3-4 detent cam so the detent spring notches

are offset or opposite each other. Detent cam

notches must be facing downward.

2.
Install detent cam retaining "C" ring to pivot shaft,

and hook spring into detent cam notches.

3.
Install both shifter shaft assemblies in cover being

careful not to damage lip seals. Install both shift

forks to detent plates, lifting up on detent cam to

allow forks to fully seat into position.

4.
Install outer shifter levers, flat washers, lock wash-

ers and nuts.

Installation (Fig. 5M)

1.
Shift 1-2 shifter lever into second speed (forward)

position. Position cover gasket on case.

2.
Carefully position side cover into place making sure

the shift forks are aligned with their respective

mainshaft clutch sliding sleeves.

3.
Install cover attaching bolts and tighten evenly to

15-20 ft. lbs. torque.

4.
Remove filler plug and add lubricant specified in

Section 0, to level of filler plug hole.

EXTENSION OIL SEAL

Replacement

1.
Remove propeller shaft.

2.
Pry out the extension oil seal.

3.
Prelubricate between sealing lips and press new oil

seal carefully into place in extension using J-5154 or

similar tool.

Fig.
4M - Transmission Side Cover/ Shift Fork and

Detent Assembly
CAUTION: Do not excessively force the seal

against the seat in the extension.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

CLUTCH
AND
TRANSMISSIONS
7-23

Assembly (Fig.
4X)

1.
With detent spring tang projecting
up
over
the 3rd

and
4th
shifter shaft cover opening install
the
first

and second detent
cam
onto
the
detent
cam
pivot
pin.

With
the
detent spring tang projecting
up
over
the

first
and
second shifter shaft cover hole install
the

3rd
and 4th
detent
cam,

NOTE:
The 1-2
detent
cam has a
.090" greater

contour
on the
inside detent notch.

2.

3.
Install detent
cam
retaining
"C"
ring
to
pivot shaft,

and hook spring into detent
cam
notches.

Install
1-2 and 3-4
shifter shaft assemblies
in
cover

being careful
not to
damage seals. Install both shift

forks
to
shifter shaft assemblies, lifting
up on
detent
cam
to
allow forks
to
fully seat into position.

4.
Install reverse detent ball
and
spring
to
cover, then

install reverse shifter shaft assembly
to
cover.

5.
Install outer shifter levers, flat washers, lock wash-

ers
and
bolts.

Installation

1.
Shift shifter levers into neutral detent (center) posi-

tion. Position cover gasket
on
case.

2.
Carefully position side cover into place making sure

the shift forks
are
aligned with their respective

mainshaft clutch sliding sleeves.

Install cover attaching bolts
and
tighten evenly
to

specified torque.

Remove filler plug
and add
lubricant specified
in

Section
0, to
level
of
filler plug hole.
3.

4.

ALUMINUM POWERGLIDE

INDEX

Page

General
Description
7-23

Maintenance
and
Adjustments .............. 7—23

Oil
Level Check
7-23

Periodic
Oil
Change
7-24

Periodic
Low
Band Adjustment
7-24

Manual
Shift Linkage Check
and
Adjust
7-24

Floor
Shift Linkage
7-25

Floor
Mounted Control Lever
and

Bracket
Assembly
7-29

Throttle
Valve Linkage
.... 7-29

Neutral
Safety Switch
.. . 7-30

Throttle
Return Check Valve (Dashpot)
7-30

Component
Parts Replacement
7-30

Transmission
Replacement .............. 7—30
Page

Other
Service Operations
7-32

Diagnosis
7-32

Warming
Up
Transmission
7-32

Shop
Warm
Up , 7-32

Road
Warm
Up 7-32

Checking
Fluid Level
and
Condition
7-32

Manual
Linkage
7-32

Oil
Leaks
7-33

Basic
Pressure Checks
7-33

Wide
Open Throttle Upshift Pressure Check
.... 7-33

Idle
Pressure
in
Drive Range
7-33

Manual
"Low"
Range Pressure Check .......
7-33

Drive
Range Overrun (Coast) Pressure
.
.......
7-33

Powerglide
Shift Points
. . 7-35

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

The case
and
converter housing
of the two
speed alumi-

num Powerglide Transmission
is a
single case aluminum

unit. When
the
manual control
is
placed
in the
drive
po-

sition,
the
transmission automatically shifts
to low
gear

for initial vehicle movement.
As the car
gains speed
and

depending
on
load
and
throttle position,
an
automatic shift

is made
to
high gear.
A
forced downshift feature
pro-

vides
a
passing gear
by
returning
the
transmission
to low

range.

The
oil
pump assembly
is a
conventional gear type
and

the
oil
pump housing
is of the
large diameter type acting

as
the
front bulkhead
of the
transmission.
The
torque

converter
is a
conventional three element welded design

bolted
to the
engine flywheel which drives through
a
two-

speed planetary gearset.
The
high clutch assembly
is

typical
of the
designs used
in
this type transmission.
The

aluminum Powerglide uses
an
output shaft mounted
gov-
ernor which requires
a
hole through
the
output shaft.
The

reverse clutch assembly
is a
multiple disc type clutch.

The steel plates
are
splined directly
to the
case while
the

face plates
are
splined
to the
internal
or
ring gear.
The

clutch piston operates within
the
rear portion
of the
case.

The internal diameter
of the
pistoh
is
sealed to
an
integral

hub portion
of the
case rear bulkhead.
The
outside
dia-

meter
is
sealed
to a
machined portion
of the
case.
The

piston
is
hydraulically applied
and is
released
by
separate

coil springs.
The
valve body assembly
is
bolted
to the

bottom
of the
transmission case
and is
accessible
for

service
by
removing
the oil pan
assembly.
The
valve

body consists
of an
upper
and
lower body located
on
either

side
of a
transfer plate.
The
vacuum modulator
is lo-

cated
on the
left rear face
of the
transmission case.
The

modulator valve bore
is
located
in the
upper valve body.

MAINTENANCE
AND
ADJUSTMENTS

OIL LEVEL CHECK

The transmission
oil
level should
be
checked period-

ically
as
recommended
in
Section
0. Oil
should
be
added

only when level
is on or
below
the
"ADD" mark
on the dip

stick with
oil hot or at
operating temperature.
The oil

level
dip
stick
is
located
at the
right rear
of the
engine
compartment. Fill with
oil
specified
in
Section
0.

In order
to
check
oil
level accurately,
the
engine should

be idled with
the
transmission
oil hot and the
control

lever
in
neutral (N) position.

It
is
important that
the oil
level
be
maintained
no

higher than
the
"FULL" mark
on the
transmission
oil

level gauge.
DO NOT
OVERFILL,
for
when
the oil
level

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

FUEL TANK AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS 8-20

4.
Attach the retaining straps with strap guide attached

to the fuel tank support, and secure with-the nut and

lockwasher assembly.

5. Connect the filler neck boot to the drain hose of the

tank and install boot around filler neck,

6. Connect the fuel pickup line, ground wire and make

certain that the fuel drain line is flush to 1/2" in-

board of the rear bumper opening.

7. Attach tank metering unit wires (fig. 25).

8. Replace fuel in tank. Replace gas cap.

9. Check for possible leaks.

10.
Reconnect the exhaust system by reversing the above

removal procedures (see "Exhaust System").

11.
Install spare tire carrier by securing the bolt

attachment.

12.
Install the spare tire in the tire carrier.

Removal (36 Gallon Tank)

1.
Remove cover (fig. 26).

2.
Disconnect hoses and drain tank and remove two

fittings at bottom of tank.

3.
Disconnect fuel and vent lines and wires at tank

(fig. 27).

4.
Remove straps.

installation (36 Gallon Tank)

Reverse removal procedure to install.

FUEL TANK METERING UNIT OR GAUGE

SENDING UNIT AND STRAINER

The fuel tank metering unit is located at the bottom of

the fuel tank. The fuel strainer is attached at the end of

the sending unit inside the tank.

Replacement (20 Gallon Tank)

1.
Follow fuel tank removal procedure through Step 2.

2.
Drain the tank. Disconnect the attaching wires.

3.
Remove metering unit with a fuel tank gauge unit

Spanner J-8950 (revised).

4.
'Remove metering unit and gasket.

CAUTION: Carefully remove unit so as not to

damage screen on the end of the pipe.

5. Clean strainer screen by blowing out with com-

pressed air.

6. Reverse procedure to install.

Replacement (36 Gallon Tank)

1.
Remove cover.

2.
Follow Steps 2 thru 6 as outlined under replacement

for 20 gallon tank.

FUEL LINES

20 Gallon Tank

The fuel lines are conveniently located along the out-

side of the right frame rail (fig. 28). The lines extend
Fig.
26—Gasoline Tank (36 Gallon) Compartment Cover

from the fuel tank pickup at the bottom of the tank, along

the rear frame crossmember to the right frame rail,

extending through the rail at the kickup area and along the

top inside edge of the frame to the fuel pump, Flexible

hoses are located at the fuel tank pickup and at the fuel

pump.

36 Gallon Tank

The 36 gallon tank fuel lines are routed from the bot-

tom of both sides of the tank to the right frame rail

(fig. 20).

Maintenance

CAUTION: Always drain gasoline from the

complete fuel system including carburetor, fuel

pump and all fuel lines and fuel tank if the vehi-

cle is to be stored for any great length of time.

This precaution will prevent accumulation~ol

gum formation and resultant poor engine

performance.

. The fuel lines should occasionally be inspected for

leaks,
kinks or dents, especially when work has been

done on the underside of car or after the car has been

traveling over rough or stone roads at higher speeds.

If evidence of dirt is found in the carburetor or fuel pump

at disassembly, the lines should be disconnected and

blown put. Check the fuel tank strainer for damage or

omission.

Fuel lines are beaded-type ends for connection to

hoses and flared ends for secure metal-to-metal line

connections.

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

SECTION 10

WHEELS AND TIRES

INDEX

Page

General Description
10-1

Maintenance
and
Adjustments
.............. 10—1

Tires
10-1

Pressures . 10-1

Inspection 10-1

Wear 10-1

Rotation 10-4

Noise 10-4

Cleaning 10-4

Change (W/Wheels) 10-4

Wheels 10-5

Static Balancing (w/Tire) 10-5
Page

Dynamic Balancing (w/Tire) . 10-5

Run Out (w/o Tire) 10-5

Cleaning 10-5

Service Operations 10-5

Tires 10-5

Removal 10-5

Installation 10-5

Repair 10^6

Wheels . 10-6

Valve Assembly 10-6

Repair (Rim) 10-7

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

WHEELS

Chevrolet, Chevelle, Camaro, Chevy n, and Corvette

are base equipped with welded steel wheels. Five studs

with nuts fasten each wheel to the front hub or rear axle

flange. Disc brake equipped vehicles (except Chevrolet

and Corvette) require special 14 inch diameter wheels

with a revised design for clearance, Chevrolet disc brake

equipped vehicles have 15 in. diameter wheels as do all

Corvettes.

Chevrolet station wagons, Chevelle Super Sport 396,

Corvette and Camaro Super Sport 350 are base equipped

with 6 in. width wheels. All other vehicles have 5 in.

width wheels, except Chevy n 100, 300 and 500 Series

Sedans, which have 4 in. width wheels.

Do not install 6 inch width wheels or snow chains on

Chevrolets equipped with rear fender skirts.

TIRES

The factory installed tires on Chevrolet passenger

cars are selected to provide the best all around tire

performance for all normal operation. They are de-

signed to operate satisfactorily with loads up to and in-

cluding the specified full rated load capacity of the
automobile when inflated as recommended in the Vehicle

Capacity Rating and Recommended Tire Inflation Pres-

sures Table (see Specifications).

Optional Oversize and 8-Ply Rating Tires

{Chevrolet and Chevelle Only)

Oversize or 8-ply rating tires are not necessary on

passenger cars for normal requirements. However, an

extra margin of tire service is available when these

options are used at loads up to and including full rated

load.

Optional oversize 4-ply rating and/or 8-ply rating

tires are available on models as indicated in the Tire

Usage Chart (see Specifications). On some models (ex-

ample—Station Wagon), space limitations do not permit

the use of a larger size tire; hence, the 8-ply rating

tire is an available option.

In either case, these tires are applicable to extended

operation at or near full rated load or for trailer towing

when an extra margin of tire service is desired. How-

ever, use of a larger tire or an 8-ply rating tire should

not be construed as permitting an increase in the full

rated vehicle load (see Specifications).

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS

TIRES

Inflation Pressures

To ensure the proper tire inflation pressure for the

owners particular requirements follow the recommenda-

tions in the Vehicle Capacity Rating and Recommended

Tire Inflation Pressures Table (seeSpecifications). Keep

tires properly inflated, and check inflation pressures

periodically. This will ensure the best tire life and riding

comfort, over the full range of driving conditions.
Inspection

Every few thousand miles and at each lubrication, tires

should be checked for sharp objects or stones in the

tread. H tire is punctured, it should be repaired using

one of several repair kits available through tire manu-

facturers1 outlets.

Wear

Misalignment

This is wear due to excessive toe-in or toe-out. In

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

WHEELS AND TIRES 10-5

WHEELS

The wheel and tire assembly should be removed from

vehicles equipped with disc brakes to properly perform

balancing operations. This is necessary due to drag of

the spring loaded brake shoes on the disc.

Static Balancing (W/Tire)

Static Balance (still balance) is the equal distribution

of weight of the wheel and tire assembly about the axis

of rotation so that the assembly has no tendency to rotate

by
itself.
Static unbalance causes the pounding action of

the front wheels that is called "tramp".

To correct static unbalance (front and rear): The

quickest and best methods to correct static unbalance

are through the use of wheel balancers which are com-

mercially available. Refer to the Information and in-

structions included with these balaricers.

Dynamic Balancing (W/Tire)

Dynamic Balance (running balance) requires the wheel

to be not only in static balance, but balanced and running

smoothly while turning on an axis which runs through the

centerline of the wheel and tire perpendicular to the axis

of rotation.

The quickest and best methods of testing and correcting

dynamic unbalance are by the use of dynamic wheel

balancers which are commercially available. These bal-

ancers include all necessary information on where and

how the balancing weights should be placed. The follow-

ing information, however, will help in the correction of

dynamic balance.

NOTE:
Before attempting to balance the

wheels, check to be certain that no foreign

matter has been trapped in the wheel ventila-

tion slots or in the accessory wheel discs. This

is especially important if the vehicle has been
run in soft mud and then parked in freezing

weather.

When a wheel that is statically unbalanced is dynam-

ically in balance the dynamic balance can be retained

while correcting "the static balance by installing the cor-

rective weights so that half of the weight required is

placed on the inner edge of the rim and the other half

on the outer edge of the rim.

Dynamic unbalance can be corrected without destroying

static balance by installing weights so half of weight

required for dynamic balance is placed on the rim op-

posite the heavy point, while the other half is placed 180°

away and on the opposite side of the rim.

NOTE:
Vehicles with wire wheel covers should

have the wheels balanced with the wire wheel

covers installed on the wheels.

Run Out (W/OTire)

The wheels should not run out (wobble) more than

1/16" as measured on the side of the rim at the base

of the tire. Excessive run-out is the result of a bent

wheel, an improperly mounted wheel, worn knuckle bear-

ings or steering connections. These parts should be

checked for correct adjustment, proper alignment and

wear whenever excessive run-out is encountered.

The wheels should also run concentric with the steering

knuckle spindle within 1/16 inch as measured on the tire

bead seat of the rim with the tire removed.

Wheel run-out, eccentricity and balance are closely

associated with steering and front wheel alignment.

Further information on these subjects will be found under

"Suspension".

Cleaning Aluminum Wheels

Do not use wire brush or abrasive cleaners when

cleaning wheels. Use only cleaners that will not react

with aluminum.

SERVICE OPERATIONS

TIRES

Removal

Dismounting tubeless tires presents no problems if the

correct procedures are used and the following precau-

tions observed.

1.
Remove the valve cap and valve core. Let out all the

air.

2.
Press the inner side of the tire into the rim well.

Use bead loosening tool or if regular tire irons are

used, take particular care not to injure or tear the

sealing ribs on the bead.

CAUTION: Never use tire irons with sharp

edges or corners.

3.
Using tire irons on the opposite side, remove bead,

taking small "bites" around the rim.

4.
Turn the tire over, and use two tire irons, one be-

tween the rim flange and the bead to pry the rim

upward, the other iron to pry outward between the

bead seat and the bead.
Installation

Extreme care must be exercised to prevent injury to

the sealing bead and circumferential bead when forcing

tire over rim.

1.
Apply a light film of Ruglyde or other suitable rubber

lubricant to sealing bead of tire.

NOTE:
The use of excessive lubrication may

lead to rim slippage and subsequent breaking of

air seal.

2.
Carefully mount the outer bead in usual manner by

using tire irons, taking small "bites" around rim,

being careful not to injure the tire bead.

CAUTION: DO NOT use a hammer, as damage

to the bead will result.

3.
Install the inner bead in the same manner.

NOTE:
If a seal cannot be effected in the fore-

going manner with the rush of air it can be

, accomplished by applying to the circumference

of the tire a tire mounting band or heavy sash

cord and tightening with the use of a tire iron.

On tire mounting machines, bouncing the tire

assembly is not required. The tire should be

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

WHEELS AND TIRES
10-6

lifted on the rim to force the top tire bead

against the top rim flange. The weight of the

tire will seat the bottom bead.

Repair

When a tire loses all or most of its air pressure,

particularly when driving at high legal speeds on today1 s

super-highways, recommended procedure is to remove it

from the wheel for complete inspection to be sure no

tire damage has occurred. Punctured tires should be

removed from the wheel and permanently repaired from

the inside.

Externally applied plug type repairs should be con-?

sidered temporary and the tire should be permanently

repaired as soon as possible.

Hot Patch Method

It is essential to thoroughly clean and remove all

foreign matter from the hole left by the puncturing-object

without enlarging the injury and then follow the manu-

facturer's instructions for vulcanizing the patch.

Rubber Plug Methods

There are several types of rubber plugs--some are

inserted from the inside of the tire; others are inserted

from the outside of the tire without demounting the tire

from the rim.

When using the plug method be sure to clean and

lubricate the hole with repair cement before inserting

the plug. Your tire supplier has available complete kits

containing materials, tools and detailed instructions for

making repairs with plugs. Follow instructions in the kit

you use.

Cold Patch Method

(Self Vulcanizing Type)

In this method it is essential to thoroughly clean and

remove all foreign matter from the hole left by the

puncturing object without enlarging the injury; also on

the inside of the tire, buff an area large enough for the

patch. Follow the manufacturer1 s instructions for appli-

cation of the special cement and self-vulcanizing cold

patch.
Pressure Gun Method

Several types of pressure guns are available. Consult

your tire supplier for materials and instructions.

Tire Installation Safety Precautions

When tires are mounted on dirty or corroded rims, or

when they are not properly centered on rims, the tire

bead may "bind" on the rim, and refuse to seat. Allowing

pressure to continue to build up within the assembly in

an attempt to seat the tire bead is a DANGEROUS PRAC-

TICE which can result in a broken tire bead, and serious

injury to the serviceman.

1.
Make sure that rim flanges and bead ledge (espe-

cially hump and radius) areas are smooth and clean.

Remove any oxidized rubber, dried soap solution,

rust, heavy paint, etc. with a wire brush, or, in ex-

treme cases, a file.

2.
Lubricate tire beads, rim flanges, and bead ledge

areas with a liberal amount of thin vegetable oil

soap solution, or approved rubber lubricant,

3.
Insure that air pressure build-up during the bead

seating process is not allowed to exceed 40 pounds

pressure. If beads have not seated by the time pres-

sure reaches 40 pounds, assembly should be deflated,

re-positioned on rim, re-lubricated and re-inflated.

4.
Make sure valve core is inserted in valve stem

prior to inflating.

5.
Use an extension gauge with clip on chuck so air

pressure build-up can be closely watched and so

that you can stand well back from the assembly

during the bead seating process.

WHEELS

Valve Assembly

Replace

NOTE: Always use new valve assembly when

replacing.

1.
Cut or drive old valve assembly out of rim.

2.
Clean valve hole and surrounding area on inside of

flange with steel wool.

Fig. 6 - Installing Valve
Fig. 7 - Rim Inspection

CHEVROLET CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL