1953 JEEP DJ key

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
the condenser. Replace the condenser. If there is
no jump to full voltage, overhaul or replace the

distributor.

k.
With the points closed, connect the voltmeter

from
a clean, paint-free
post
on the distributor
body to the negative
post
of the battery. The volt­
age drop should be practically zero, a hardly
readable deflection on the voltmeter. If the volt­ meter registers a
voltage
drop, perform the checks

in
steps
1
and m following.

I.
Check
for
voltage
drop in the battery ground
cable.
Clean
the battery
post,
cable terminals, and contact surface on the bellhousing, or on body if

a
noticeable deflection of the voltmeter occurs,
m.
Check
for any
voltage
drop
between
the dis­

tributor
body and a clean, paint-free
spot
on the

cylinder
block. If there is any
voltage
drop, remove
the distributor and clean the mounting surfaces of
distributor
body and cylinder block.

H-5.
SECONDARY
CIRCUIT
If
satisfactory ignition is not obtainable with cor­

rect
point gap and tension; satisfactory condenser;
sufficient primary voltage; and correctly cleaned, gapped, and installed spark plugs; the secondary

circiut
should be investigated.

a.
Test the coil.
Bring
the coil up to operating
temperature using the coil heat feature of a coil tester, if available. Refer to the coil tester manu­

facturer's
instructions for specific hook-ups for
performing the checks given in
steps
b, c, and d following.
b. Connect the positive lead of the tester to the
battery terminal of the coil primary winding.
Con­
nect the tester ground lead to the coil tower. Mea­

sure
the resistance of the secondary winding. If the
resistance is more than
20,000
ohms, a fault in the
secondary winding is indicated.
c.
Check
for a grounded secondary by touching the tester ground lead to the coil cover. If resistance
is not over
100,000
ohms, the secondary is grounded
to the cover.

d.
If the secondary winding is satisfactory, mea­
sure
the primary current draw in accordance with
the instructions of the
test
equipment manu­
facturer.

e.
Check
the secondary circuit for leakage. With the coil primary in the circuit with the breaker unit of the tester, connect a long, high-tension
test
lead
to the coil tower.
Check
the secondary circuit for
leakage by performing the checks given in
steps
f. g, h, and i following.

Note:
In the following
tests,
a slight sparking and
meter deflection
will
usually be
seen
just as contact
is made.
This
is caused by capacitance and
does
not
indicate defective insulation.
f.
Check
distributor cap. Remove the coil lead from the cap and touch the
test
lead to the center contact
inside the cap. If the meter reading drops when the contact is touched or if sparking is seen, a leakage
path is present
between
the center contact and one
of the plug towers.
This
leakage path
will
be in the

form
of a
crack
or carbon track in the cap. Discon­ nect the spark plug wires from the cap one at a
time and
test
each plug contact with the high-
voltage
lead and with all other plug wires con­
nected. Any sparking or meter drop indicates that

a
leakage path exists
between
that particular con­
tact and an adjacent one. Testing the adjacent contacts
will
determine which pair is at fault,
g-
Check
distributor rotor. Touch the
test
lead to
the spring contact in the center of the distributor
rotor.
Any leakage in the rotor insulation
between

the contact and the shaft
will
cause a drop in the meter reading and usually sparking
will
be seen.

h.
Check
spark plug wires. Disconnect the spark
plug wires from the plugs and
test
the plug terminal of each. The meter reading should not drop below
the open secondary value (value before making contact). If it
does
or if a large spark occurs when
the
test
lead and the plug wire are separated, there
is a break in the insulation on that wire.

i.
Check
the coil tower insulation. Remove the
high-tension
test
lead from the coil tower and touch
the ground lead of the coil tester to several points

around
the base of the tower. Any sparking or deflection of the meter indicates a leakage path in
the tower insulation.

H-6.
Alternator Charging System

All
Jeep
Universal
Series vehicles have, as standard
equipment a 35-amp., 12-volt, negative ground
alternator and a transistorized
voltage
regulator.
For
repairing the alternator, many of its major components are furnished as complete assemblies

including:
complete brush assembly which requires no soldering or unsoldering of leads; two complete
rectifying
diode
assemblies which eliminate the need for removing and replacing individual diodes;

a
complete isolation
diode
assembly; and a rotor assembly complete with shaft,
pole
pieces, field coil,

and
slip rings.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is an electronic
switching device. It
senses
the
voltage
appearing at the auxiliary terminal of the alternator and
supplies the necessary field current for maintaining the system
voltage
at the output
terminal.
The out­
put current is determined by the battery electrical

load;
such as headlights, heater, etc.
The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed unit,
has no adjustments, and must be replaced as a
complete unit.

H-7.
Starting System

The
operation of the starter motor is controlled by
the ignition switch. The starter is made up of a
frame,
field coil, armature, and brushes.

The
starter solenoid electrically
closes
the circuit

between
the battery and the starter motor. When the ignition key is turned to its extreme right, the
solenoid is energized and
closes
the battery-to- starter-motor circuit.

Note:
All Jeep Universal Series vehicles have the

starter
solenoid switch secured to the starter motor
assembly. The Hurricane F4 and Dauntless V-6

engine
Prestolite starter drive is of the inertia type
(rexr
continued on
page
176) 174

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
11474

FIG.
H-3—WIRING
DIAGRAM—MODELS
CJ-5, CJ-6, DJ-5 AND DJ-6—F4
ENGINE
(Model CJ-5 after Serial No.
49248,
Model CJ-6 after Serial No.
12577)

1—
Left
Headlamp
B—Turn
Signal Indicator 17—Directional Signal Switch
2—
Left
Parking and Directional Lamp C—Instrument Lights 18—Light Switch
3— Right Parking and Directional Lamp
D—Oil
Pressure Indicator
19—Stop
Light Switch
4— Right Headlamp E—Charging Indicator 20—Foot Dimmer Switch
5— Battery Ground Cable F—Temperature Gauge 21—Directional Signal Flasher
6— Generator
G—Fuel
Gauge 22—Fuse 7— Distributor H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
23—Solenoid
Switch
8— Ignition
Coil
12—Right
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp 24—Temperature Sending Unit
9— Starting Motor 13—Left
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp 25—Oil Pressure Signal Switch
10— Voltage Regulator 14—Fuel Gauge
Tank
Unit 26—Horn
11— Instrument Cluster 15—Ignition and Starter Switch 27—Junction Block
A—Upper
Beam Indicator 16—Horn Button
whereas the Dauntless V-6
engine
Delco starter
ignition
switch. If trouble
develops
in this switch, drive is of the clutch
type.
it must be replaced.
The
ignition
switch
serves
both
to
energize
the

The
starter circuit is
opened
when the
ignition
key
ignition
system
and
also
to
engage
the starter
sole-

is allowed to return to the "Ignition On"
position.
miod switch. With the key in the vertical
position,
No repairs or adjustments can be
made
to the the electrical
system
is off. This is the
only
position
176

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

12968
FIG.
H-4—WIRING
DIAGRAM—MODELS
CJ-5, CJ-6, DJ-5, DJ-6
LATE
F4
ENGINE

1—
Left
Headlamp
2—
Left
Parking and Signal Lamp
3— Right Parking and Signal Lamp 4— Right Headlamp
5— Generator
6— Ignition Distributor
7—
Oil
Pressure Sending Unit
8— Junction Block
9—
Horn

10— Foot Dimmer Switch 11—
Stop
Light Switch — Front
12— Temperature Sending Unit
13— Ignition
Coil

14— Starting Motor 15— Battery Ground Cable
16— Battery
17— Voltage Regulator 18—
Fuse

19— Instrument Cluster

A—Hi-Beam
Indicator

B—Auxiliary
C—Instrument
Lights

D—Oil
Pressure Indicator
E—Charging
Indicator
F—Temperature
Indicator

G—Fuel
Gauge
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
20— Ignition and Starter Switch 21—
Flashei
(Directional Signal)
22—
Horn
Button 23— Directional Signal Switch
24— 4-Way Flasher Switch
25—
Flasher
(4-Way)
26—
Fuse

27—
Main
Light Switch 28—
Stop
Light Switch — Rear
29—
Fuel
Gauge
Tank
Unit
30—
Back-Up
Light Switch
31— Right
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp
32— Right Back-Up Lamp
33—
Left
Back-Up Lamp
34—
Left
Tail
and
Stop
Lamp

in
which the key can be removed. Turning the key
to the
left
energizes
auxiliary
equipment
such as
windshield wipers, radio, and heater. The turn
signal
lights
will
operate
with the
ignition
key in
either the
left
or right
position.
The
ignition
switch is held in
position
by a
tension
spring on the back
of the instrument panel and a
notched
bezel on
the front of the instrument panel.
H-8.
Lighting System

The
wiring for the lighting
system
is shown in the
wiring diagrams, Figs. H-2 thru H-7 of the manual,
which indicate the various units in relation to their

position
in the vehicle. The lighting circuit is pro­
tected
by an overload circuit breaker
mounted
on the rear of the light switch.
The
main light switch controls the lighting
system
177

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than the type of
spark
plugs and the cause should be determined before changing plugs. The design of the
engine
calls for plugs equivalent to Champion

J-8
for F4
engines
and
A.C.
44S or
UJ12Y
Champ­

ion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects
engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by in­ sufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing

tip.
If this is the case, the plug gasket
will
show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in
turn,
will
pro­ duce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation.
This
will
be evident by excessive
flattening
and
deformation of the gasket.
Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and

air-fuel
mixture can affect the
engine
operating temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
GENERATOR
— F4
ENGINE

The
generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit

which
cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease output. For replacement,
voltage
regulator and generator must be matched for
voltage
and capa­

city,
polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise,
either a
loss
of ampere capacity or a

burned
out generator
will
result. Generators for

these
vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H-l explains the 12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct generator rating for a specific model series.
The
circuit
breaker,
voltage
regulator, and current-

limiting
regulator are built into one combination

unit.
Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator
circuit,
the output of the generator
depends upon the
state
of charge and temperature
of the battery.
With
a discharged battery, the
output
will
be high, decreasing proportionally as the battery
becomes
charged. For service informa­
tion covering current regulator see Par. H-41.

H-36.
Generator
Maintenance

A
periodic inspection should be made of the charg­
ing
circuit,
Fig. H-l9. The interval
between
these
checks
will
vary
depending upon type of service.
Dust,
dirt
and high speed operation are factors 10541

FIG.
H-19—CHARGING
CIRCUIT

1—
Battery
4-—Starter Switch

2—
Voltage
Regulator 5-—Charge Indicator

3—
Generator
which
contribute to increased wear of bearings

and
brushes.

Under
normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles
[9.600
km.].

A
visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.

Check
all connections to be sure they are tight and

clean.

Should
the commutator be rough or worn the
armature
should be removed and the commutator

turned
and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The
brushes should slide freely in their holders.

Should
they be oil soaked or if they are worn to

less
than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they should be sanded to provide
full
contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.

Brush
spring tension is important. High tension causes
rapid
brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test
the tension with a spring scale.
Check
the
specifications section at end of this section for

correct
spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
•
Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to

correct
electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and
test
procedures as detailed in Par.

H-46
thru
H-62. If it is definitely determined that trouble exists within the generator, which ne­cessitates dismantling, proceed as follows. Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly. Next
pull
the armature and drive head complete

from
the generator housing. Remove the generator pulley from the armature by removing the nut

and
washer. Do not
lose
the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing.
To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature

If
the commutator is rough or worn,
turn
it down

in
a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation be­ tween the
segments
should be undercut to a depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To
test
the armature for a ground, connect one

prod
of a
test
lamp to the core or shaft (not on

bearing
surface) and touch each commutator
seg­
ment with the other prod. If the lamp lights, the

armature
segment
is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

To
test
for short in armature coils, a growler,

Fig.
H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature

core.
The armature is then rotated slowly by hand

and
if a coil is shorted, the steel strip
will
vibrate.

Should
a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.

If
precision
test
equipment is available, the cus­

tomary
accurate
tests
can be made in accordance 188

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

H

U029p 1—
Oil
Retainer

2—
Bearing

3—
-Felt
Wick
4—
Oiler

5—
Commutator
End Head
6—
Brush
Lead
Screw
7—
Lockwasher

8—
Brush
Set
9—
Brush
Spring

10—
Brush
Arm

11—
Frame

12—
Insulating
Bushing

13—
Washer

14—
Lockwasher

15—
Hex
Nut
16—
Lockwasher
FIG.
H-20—GENERATOR

17—
Hex
Nut
18—
Ground
Screw
19—
Lockwasher

20—
Hex
Nut

21
—Lockwasher

22—
Hex
Nut

23—
Lockwasher

24—
Washer
25—
Insulating
Washer
26—
Insulating
Bushing
27—
Stud

28—
Left
and Right
Field
Coil

29— Pole Shoes
30— Pole Shoe Screw

31—
Drive
Pulley and Fan Assembly
3
2—Lockwasher
33—
Shaft
Nut
34—
Drive
End Head

35—
Felt
Washer
36—
Felt
Washer Retainer
37—
Ball
Bearing
38—
Gasket

39—
Bearing
Retainer
40—
Lockwasher

41—
Retainer
Screw

42—
-Felt
Washer

43—
Woodruff
Key
44—
Armature

45—
Thru
Bolt
4
6—Lockwasher

with
instructions furnished with the testing equip­ ment.

H-38.
Field
Coils
Inspect the field coils for chafed wires and using

test
lamp prods check for both open and grounded

circuits.
To
test
for open coil, connect the prods
to the two leads from each coil. If the lamp fails
to light, the coil is open and must be repaired or

replaced.

To
test
for ground, place one prod on ground and
the other on the field coil terminal. If a ground is present the lamp
will
light and the coil must be

repaired
or replaced.
If
accurate
test
equipment is available, check the
field coils for current draw which should be with­
in
the limits of 1.2 to 1.3 amperes at 10 volts for both coils.
A shorted coil
will
of course show a much higher
draw,
while an open coil
will
show no draw. In
either case the generator output
will
be below
normal.

To
replace a field coil, disconnect the field termin­

als,
use a heavy screwdriver to remove the field

pole
piece screws, then the coils
together
with the

pole
pieces may be removed. When replacing the coils, set the
pole
piece screws by staking with a
center punch.

H-39.
Brush
Holders

With
test
prods check the insulated brush holder
to be sure it is not grounded. Touch the brush
holder with one prod and the frame with the other prod. If the lamp lights, a grounded brush holder is indicated.
Inspect the brush holders for
cracks,
distortion and

improper
alignment. The brushes should slide freely

and
should be in perfect alignment with the com­ mutator
segments.

H-40.
Assembling Generator

Install
the felt grease retainer and washer in the

drive
end head. See Fig. H-20.
Check
the bearing to be sure it is clean and
fill
it one-half full with

a
high melting point grease.
Install
the bearing
and
also install the inside felt washer and attach
the bearing retainer with the lockwashers and

screws.
Place the drive end head over the front end
of the armature shaft.
Install
the Woodruff key in the armature shaft and install the drive pulley,
being sure the key is in position. Secure in position

with
the washer and nut. Place the assembly on 189

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM DC
ammeter — 0 to 60 ampere

DC
ammeter — 0 to 5 ampere

DC
voltmeter — 0 to 16 volt
Rheostat — 40 ohm capable of
handling
3 amps.

Carbon
Pile — 45 amperes

b.
Diode Rectifier Tester C-3829.

c.
12-volt DC
test
lamp.

d.
Ohmmeter of any commercial type is not ab­solutely necessary but can be helpful.

H-69.
Isolation Diode
Check

With
the ignition key in the off position the correct voltage at the auxiliary terminal is zero volts. If
voltage measured at auxiliary terminal is the same as voltage at output terminal, the isolation diode
is shorted. In most cases, the charge indicator lamp
would be glowing with the ignition off if the isola­ tion diode were shorted. Refer to Fig. H-23.
GREEN

DC
VOLTS
13401

FIG.
H-23—ISOLATION DIODE
TEST-
SHORTED DIODE
With
the engine running the correct voltage at the

auxiliary
terminal is 15.4 volts and at output ter­

minal
is 14.4 volts. If voltage of auxiliary terminal
is 15.4 volts, while at output terminal it is 12 volts

or
battery voltage, the isolation diode is open. In
most cases, this would be indicated by the charge

GREEN

TO
CHARGE
INDICATOR
LAMP1

15.4
VOLTS BLACK
VOLT

REG DC
VOLTS

BATTERY

DC
VOLTS
FIG.
H-24—ISOLATION DIODE
TEST-

OPEN DIODE
indicator
lamp glowing when the engine is running.

Refer
to Fig. H-24.

If
the isolation diode is shorted or open, the heat

sink
and diode should be replaced as an assembly.

At
the time of manufacture, the diode is pressed into the heat sink and the complete assembly is in­
sulated from the alternator housing.

H-70.
Alternator Output Test

This
test
excludes the regulator from the alternator
system, thereby isolating the problem to either the regulator or alternator. Disconnect field and voltage regulator plug and
connect jumper from auxiliary terminal to field

terminal.
Start
engine and run at idle. Refer to

Fig.
H-25.
DC
VOLTS

13403

FIG.
H-25—ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
TEST
If
voltage at auxiliary terminal rises to 15 or 16
volts now, when it did not with voltage regulator
connected, then defect is in regulator and it should
be replaced. If voltage
does
not rise at auxiliary

terminal,
defect is in alternator stator or rectifier diodes, if field circuit checked out properly. For
defects
in stator or diodes, remove alternator from vehicle.

If
rated current output is obtained with at least 13
volts but less than 15 volts at the output terminal,
the alternator is functioning properly.

Caution:
Do not exceed rated current output of
alternator
by increasing load on alternator.

If
rated
current
output cannot be obtained, proceed

with
the
tests
and checks given in the following
paragraphs
and isolate the cause.
Note: The system is designed to produce slightly
more output at low operating temperatures and less
at higher temperatures to accommodate the
varying
demands of electrical power normally consumed at

these
temperatures.

H-71.
Regulator Test

The
regulator should be checked with an alternator
that is functioning properly. If the alternator is questionable, perform the Alternator Output Test
(Par
H-70) which excludes the regulator from the

charging
system and, therefore,
tests
the condition
of the alternator alone. 196

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H
H-72.
Removal
and
Installation
of

Voltage Regulator

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is a sealed unit.
It
cannot be disassembled or adjusted. If found to
be defective in any way, it must be replaced as
a
unit.

The
transistorized
voltage
regulator is mounted on
the fender dust shield by three mounting screws.

Wiring
connections to the charging circuit are made through a three-prong connector.

To
remove the regulator, disconnect the three
-
prong connector and remove the three mounting

screws.
Installation of the regulator is the reverse
of the removal. (Refer to Fig. H-26.)
FIG.
H-26—VOLTAGE
REGULATOR

H-73.
Alternator Field Circuit Test

Voltage
Test — Refer to Fig. H-27.

a.
With the ignition key on and
engine
not
run­
ning,
the correct
voltage
at the auxiliary terminal is
approximately 1.5 volts. If the
voltage
at auxiliary

terminal
is higher than 2 volts, field circuit is defective — check brushes.
GREEN

13404

FIG.
H-27—FIELD
CIRCUIT TEST—VOLTAGE If
voltage
reads zero volts at auxiliary terminal,
check charge indicator lamp and associated circuit.
If
this
voltage
is not correct, continue with the fol­
lowing
test
described in paragraph b.
Amperage Test — Refer to Fig. H-28. b.
This
test
evaluates complete field circuit, inde­
pendent of
voltage
regulator.
Circuit
is through
brushes, slip rings, rotor to ground. With ignition switch off, current should be 2 to 2.5 amps. If
less

than
this, check brushes and slip rings. It is de­

sirable
to use a field rheostat in series with meter
for protection of the meter. If field is shorted, ex­
cessive current
will
flow through meter and dam­
age may result.
GREEN
FIELD
WIRE

DISCONNECTED

13405

FIG.
H-28—FIELD
CIRCUIT TEST- AMPERAGE
DRAW
H-74.
Brush Removal
and
Inspection

Refer
to Fig. H-29.

The
brushes can be removed and inspected while
the alternator is in the vehicle.

a.
Disconnect the plug to the field terminal. b. Remove the two screws and brush cover.
c. Remove brushes.
d.
Inspect brushes for excessive wear and proper
tension. The brushes can be installed by reversing
the above procedure.

H-75.
Brush Insulation
and
Continuity Test

Refer
to Fig. H-30.

a.
Connect leads of a 12-volt
test
lamp to field
FIG.
H-29—BRUSH
REMOVAL

1—
Screw

2—
Cover

3—
Brush
and
Holder
Assembly
4—
Alternator
197

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

H

©
© © ® (a
1—
Bolt

2— Cap
Screw

3—
Brush
Assembly
Cover

4—
Brush
Assembly
5—
Locknut

6—
Isolation
Diode 7— Nut
8—
Insulated
Washer
9—
Rear
Housing

10—Slip
Ring
FIG.
H-31—ALTERNATOR

11—
Insulated
Washer 12— Negative Diode Assembly
13—
Positive Diode Assembly
14—
Stator

15—
Rear
Bearing 16—
Rotor
17—
Retaining
Clip

18—
Front
Bearing
19—
Front
Housing
20— Nut 11485
21—
Fan
22—
Pulley

23—
Lock
Washer
24— Nut 25—
Woodruff
Key 26—
Bushing

27—
Insulated
Sleeve
28— Nut sembly straight out until the brushes are clear of

rotor
assembly.
Lift
the brush assembly out of the housing.

b.
Remove the isolation
diode
assembly by re­
moving nuts.

c.
Remove fan, pulley, lock
washer,
nut and spacer.
With
the nut removed, remove pulley using
Puller,

the other parts can then be removed easily from the

rotor
shaft. The spacer
will
not
come
off until the key is removed.

d.
Separate front housing from
rear
housing by
removing
bolts
and nuts.
Then
insert blade of
a
small screwdriver in the stator
slots
between
the
stator and the front housing. Wedge apart the
halves of the alternator.

Caution:
Take
care not to insert the screwdriver
blade deeper than J/f6" [0,16 cm.] below a stator.

Otherwise
damage to the stator windings may

result.
It may be necessary to apply pressure at

several
points around the stator to extract rotor

and
front housing as an assembly. Be careful not
to
burr
the stator core as this would make reas­ sembly difficult.

e.
Remove the two rectifying
diode
heat sink as­semblies and the stator as a complete unit from
the
rear
housing by removing nuts and locknuts.
Note
that the positive
diode
assembly is insulated

from
the alternator housing by insulated washers

and
insulated sleeves.
f. The
diode
and stator assemblies may now be
tested
as outlined in
Par.
H-83.
For
additional
test­
ing
(Pars.
H-84 and H-85) or to replace a
diode
heat
sink
assembly, unsolder the three soldered con­
nections at the
diodes
to separate heat sink from stator.

Caution:
When unsoldering the stator wires from
the rectifier
diode
assembly, provide a heat sink
to the
diode
terminal using a
pair
of long-nosed
pliers
to dissipate the heat away from the diodes.

g.
To remove the rotor assembly from the front
housing remove the woodruff key and split spring

washer
(bearing retainer).
FIG.
H-32—REMOVING
FRONT
BEARING

1—Front
Bearing Remover C-4068
h.
With
the woodruff key removed and the split

spring
washer
loose,
the rotor may be removed
from
the front housing by tapping the rotor shaft
on a
soft
wood surface.

i.
Remove the front and
rear
bearings from the

rotor
shaft by using Bearing Remover C-4068 for
the front bearing, as shown in
Fig.
H-32, and
Bear­
ing Remover C-3936 for the
rear
bearing, as shown

in Fig.
H-33.

H-81.
General
Inspection

a.
All parts should be wiped clean and visually inspected for wear, distortion, and signs of over­
heating or mechanical interference.

b.
Check
the bearings for roughness or excessive

clearance.
They should be replaced if found defective.

Note:
New bearings are prelubricated. Additional

lubrication
is not required. 199