1953 JEEP DJ wheel alignment

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Note:
The rib on
edge
of cap and the conical
boss

on web of connecting rod must be toward
rear
of
engine
in all connecting rod assemblies of left
cyl­

inder
bank and toward front of
engine
in all con­necting rod assemblies of right cylinder bank.

Dl-50.
Oil
Pump Intake
and
Screen Cleaning

a.
Pry screen from housing and examine for clog­
ging due to deposit of sludge or other foreign

material.

b.
Clean
the screen and housing thoroughly in sol­
vent; dry with compressed air.

c.
Install
screen in housing.

Dl-51.
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection

Inspect
the oil pan for corrosion, dents, leaks, and
other damage. Inspect its mounting flange carefully
for damage or distortion to be certain that it
will
give
a
good
seal.

Dl-52.
Flywheel Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
the flywheel with suitable cleaning solvent;

dry
with compressed air. Inspect clutch face for

burned
or scuffed condition and for rivet grooves.
Inspection
for run out or improper mounting is de­

scribed
in installation procedure.
Inspect
teeth
of the flywheel
ring
gear for
burrs,

nicks,
and minor distortion. If necessary and pos­
sible, use a small emery wheel to remove
burrs
and
reshape teeth. If gear
teeth
are broken,
cracked,

seriously
burred
or deformed, the
ring
gear must be replaced.

Dl-53.
Ring Gear Replacement

a.
Drill
a
hole
between
two
ring
gear teeth; then

split
the gear with a cold chisel. Be careful not to
damage
ring
gear shoulder or seat surfaces of fly­
wheel.

b.
Polish several
spots
on the new
ring
gear to be

installed.
With
a hot plate or slowly moving torch,
heat the new
ring
gear until polished
spots
become

blue, about
600°F.
[312°C.].

Caution:
Do not heat the
ring
gear to a temperature
greater than
800°F.
[424°C.].
Excessive heat
will

destroy heat treatment given to
ring
gear during
manufacture.

c.
Quickly
install
ring
gear on flywheel. Chamfered

edge
of
ring
gear must be toward
ring
gear shoulder
of flywheel. Be certain that
ring
gear is seated prop­

erly.
Allow
ring
gear to cool slowly, so that it
will

be held tightly in place.

Dl-54.
Flywheel Housing Cleaning and Inspection

Both
flywheel and clutch are enclosed by a fly­
wheel housing. Its front surface is bolted to the
engine
cylinder block, and its
rear
surface acts as

front
support to the transmission.
Clean
the fly­ wheel housing with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry
with
compressed air. Inspect front and
rear
surfaces
for distortion and improper alignment with each
other;
these
planes must be
parallel
to assure
proper
alignment
between
engine
and transmission.
Dl-55.
Camshaft Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
both camshaft and camshaft bearing surfaces

with
a suitable cleaning solvent; dry with com­
pressed air.

Note:
The steel-backed babbitt-lined camshaft
bearings are pressed into the crankcase.
From
front
to
rear,
each bearing is .030" [0,76 mm.] smaller
in
diameter than the preceding bearing.
From
front
to
rear,
each camshaft
journal
is correspondingly
smaller
in diameter.

The
camshaft bearings must be line reamed to

proper
diameter after being pressed into crankcase.
Since
this operation requires special reaming equip­
ment, the original bearings should be retained un­
less
they are severly damaged. Slightly scored cam­
shaft bearings are satisfactory if the surfaces of camshaft journals are polished, bearings are
polished to remove
burrs,
and
radial
clearance

between
camshaft and bearings is within .0015"
to .004" [0,038 a 0,102 mm.].

Dl-56.
Valve Lifter
and
Push
Rod
Cleaning and Inspection
a.
Examine the cam contact surface at lower end of each valve lifter body. If surface is excessively

worn,
galled, or otherwise damaged, discard the
valve lifter. Also examine the mating camshaft
lobe
for excessive wear or damage.

b.
Disassemble one or two valve lifters, as de­

scribed
below, and inspect them for
dirt
or
varnish.
If
they are dirty or have a varnish deposit, clean

and
inspect all twelve valve lifters. Otherwise,
service
only
those
valve lifters which do not operate

properly.

c.
To disassemble each valve lifter, depress the
push
rod seat with a push rod, and remove the
plunger retainer from the valve lifter body with

a
retainer remover. Remove push rod seat and
plunger from valve lifter body. If plunger sticks
in
valve lifter body, place body in large end of

a
plunger remover tool, with plunger downward.
While
holding lifter with thumb, rap the open end
of remover against a block of wood with just enough force to jar the plunger from body. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-20, Dl-22 and Dl-23.

d.
Drain
oil from valve lifter and remove the check
valve retainer,
ball,
valve spring, and plunger
spring.

e. Keep all parts of each valve lifter separated

during
part cleaning and inspection. The valve

lifter
body and plunger are selectively fitted to each other and must not be interchanged with parts
of other valve lifters.
f. Rinse all valve lifter parts in kerosene to remove as much oil as possible.
This
will
reduce contamina­
tion of the cleaning solvent. Immerse all parts in cleaning solvent for approximately one hour. The
time required
will
depend on varnish
deposits
and
effectiveness
of the solvent. After the varnish has
dissolved or has
softened
sufficiently to permit re­

moval
by wiping, allow parts to
drain.
Varnish
can
then be cleaned from the valve lifter body
with
a
brush.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to dissolve 90

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl
Dl-104.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS

Poor Fuel Economy
Ignition Timing Late or Spark Advance Inoperative

Carburetor
Float Setting Too High
Accelerator Pump Improperly Adjusted
Fuel
Pump Pressure High

Fuel
Line
Leakage

Fuel
Pump Diaphragm Leakage
Cylinder
Compression Low
Valves Do Not Seat Properly
Spark
Plugs
Defective

Spark
Plug Cables
Defective

Ignition
Coil
or Capacitor
Defective

Carburetor
Air Cleaner Dirty

Brakes
Drag
Wheel Alignment Incorrect

Tire
Pressure Incorrect Odometer Inaccurate

Fuel
Tank
Cap Clogged or
Defective

Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent

Lack
of
Power
Cylinder
Compression Low
Ingitdon Timing Late

Carburetor
or
Fuel
Pump Clogged or
Defective

Fuel
Lines Clogged
Air
Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High Valves Do Not Seat Property

Valve
Timing Late Intake Manifold or Cylinder Head
Gasket Leaks
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent
Spark
Plugs Dirty or
Defective

Breaker
Point Gap Incorrect
Breaker
Points
Defective
Ignition
Coil
or Capacitor
Defective

Electrical
Connection Loose
Broken
Valve Spring

Broken
Piston Ring or Piston
Cylinder
Head Gasket
Defective

Distributor Cap Cracked

Low
Compression
Valves Not Seating Properly Piston Rings Seal Poorly
Valve
Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder
Scored or Worn
Piston Clearance Too Great

Cylinder
Head Gasket Leaks

Burned
Valves and
Seats
Valves Stick or Are Too Loose in Guides
Valve
Timing Incorrect

Valve
Head and Seat Have Excessive Carbon
Engine Overheats

Valve
Spring Weak or Broken

Valve
Lifter Seized or Collapsed
Exhaust
System Clogged
Valves Sticking

Valve
Stem Warped

Valve
Stem Carbonized or Scored

Valve
Stem Clearance Insufficient in Guide

Valve
Spring Weak or Broken

Valve
Spring Distorted
Oil
Contaminated

Overheating
Cooling System Inoperative
Thermostat Inoperative Ignition Timing Incorrect

Valve
Timing Incorrect
Carbon
Accumulation Excessive

Fan
Belt Loose
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent

Oil
System Failure
Piston Rings Worn or Scored
Popping,
Spitting,
Detonation
Ignition Timing Incorrect

Carburetion
Improper

Carbon
Deposit
in Combustion
Chambers Excessive
Valves Not Seating Properly
Valve
Spring Broken
Spark
Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in
Fuel
Fuel
Line
Clogged
Valve
Timing Incorrect

Excessive
Oil
Consumption
Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Weak,
Worn,
Broken, or Incorrectly Fitted

Crankshaft
Main Bearings or
Connecting Rod Bearings Have
Excessive Clearance
Gaskets or Oil Seals
Leak

Cylinder
Bores Worn, Scored,
Out-of-Round or Tapered
Pistons Have Too Great Clearance to Cylinder Bores
Connecting Rods Misaligned High Road Speed
High Temperature

Crankcase
Ventilation System Inoperative
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft
Bearing Journal Rough or Out-of-Round

Oil
Level Low
Oil
Leakage

Oil
Dirty
Oil
Pressure Low or Lacking
(Oil
Pump Failure)

Drilled
Passages
in Crankshaft or
Crankcase
Clogged

Oil
Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent 105

H

ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM

FIG.
H-42—GROWLER
d.
Install
the armature in starter motor frame,
using care to align the four brushes and brush
springs on the commutator so that they are free to
move
and are square on the commutator.

e.
Install
the thrust washer on the shaft.
Lubricate

the plug and bearing in the end plate.
Install
the
end plate.
Install
the two through
bolts
and tighten securely.

f.
On Prestolite V6 starting motors, check pinion position by measuring from the centerline of the
pinion housing mounting bolt
holes
to the outside

edge
of the pinion.
Correct
measurement with the
Bendix
drive retracted is [19,05 mm.] to
%"
[22,23 mm.]; with drive extended, 1%"

[34,93
mm.] to 1^" [38,10]. Adjust by installing

thrust
washers just inside the commutator end
head or intermediate bearing as required. The
Bendix
drive retaining pin must not project
beyond the outside diameter of the pinion
sleeve.

H-104.
Bench Test

The
motor should first be checked to see that the
free running
voltage
and current are within specifi­ cations. To
test,
connect the motor to a battery,
ammeter and voltmeter. If the current is too high
check
the bearing alignment and end play to make

sure
there is no binding or interference. Using a

spring
scale and torque arm check the stall torque to see that the motor is producing its rated
crank­

ing power. The stall torque
will
be product of the

spring
scale reading and the length of the arm

in
feet.
If the torque is not up to specifications

check
the seating of the brushes on the commutator
and
the internal connection of the motor for high
resistance. The Bendix
Folo-Thru-Drive
should be checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion
should be checked to see that it shifts when the motor is operated under no load.

H-105.
Bendix Folo-Thru Drive (Prestolite)
The
Bendix
Folo-Thru
Drive is designed to over­

come
premature demeshing of the drive pinion
from
the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined

engine
speed is reached. See Fig. H-43. No repairs or adjustments are possible on this

drive
and a
complete
new unit must be installed

if
trouble develops.

H-106.
Lubrication
of
Folo-Thru Drive
A
periodic cleaning and relubrication of the drive is advisable, the frequency of which
will
depend on
the type of service to which the vehicle is sub­
jected and the locale of operation.

a.
Remove the starting motor from the
engine
and take off the outboard housing. The pinion and

barrel
assembly
will
be in the demeshed position
on the screwshaft. Do not
move
it forward
until
after
that portion of the armature shaft ahead
of the pinion has been cleaned. If accidentally ro­
tated to the outer end of the screwshaft it
will

lock
in that position and cannot be forced back.

b.
Do not disassemble the drive for any reason.

c.
Do not dip or wash the drive in any cleaning solution.

d.
Do not remove the drive from the armature
shaft. Remove
excess
oil, grease or foreign matter
from
the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean cloth.
3
10859
FIG.
H-43—BENDIX
FOLO-THRU DRIVE

Dampen
the cloth with kerosene if necessary. A
light film of
SAE
10 oil may then be applied to the shaft.

e.
Now rotate the pinion and
barrel
assembly to the
fully
extended position, thereby exposing the screw­ shaft triple threads. Use a cloth dampened with
kerosene to wipe them clean. Do not use
gaso­
line
or any
commercial cleaner.
If the dirt is

thick
and gummy, apply the kerosene with a small

brush.
Tilt
the starting motor so that a small
amount
will
run under the control nut. Relubricate

with
a thin film of
SAE
10 oil. Use SAE 5 at ex­ tremely low temperatures.

f.
Reassemble the starting motor to the
engine
with the drive in the extended position.
Carefully
mesh the pinion with the flywheel ring gear before
tightening the starter motor mounting bolts. It may 206

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES
SERVICE
MANUAL

J
THREE-SPEED
TRANSMISSION

Contents

SUBJECT
PAR.

GENERAL
J-l
TRANSMISSION
SHIFTING
CONTROL.
. J-2
TRANSMISSION
REMOTE
CONTROL
ADJUSTMENT
J-3

REMOTE
CONTROL
DISASSEMBLY
J-4

REMOTE
CONTROL
REASSEMBLY.
. . . . J-5
TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL
J-6

SEPARATING
TRANSMISSION
AND
TRANSFER
CASE
J-7
SUBJECT
PAR.

DISASSEMBLY
OF
CANE
SHIFT
TRANSMISSION
J-8, J-12, J-16
Transmission
Cleaning and
Inspection J-10, J-18

Transmission
Interlocking Sleeve Inspection J-9

REASSEMBLY
OF
CANE
SHIFT
TRANSMISSION
J-ll,
J-14, J-19

SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
J-20

TRANSMISSION
SPECIFICATIONS
J-21
J-1.
GENERAL
A
three speed synchromesh transmission is standard
equipment on all 'Jeep' Universal vehicles.
The
models T90 and T96 transmissions are used

with
the
Hurricane
F4 engine, and models
T86AA
and
T14A transmissions are used with the Daunt­
less
V-6 engine. All model transmissions are similar

in
design with exception of the T14A which is a

fully
synchronized (all forward gears) transmission

with
helical drive gears throughout.
The
transmission assembly is attached to the
rear

face of the flywheel bell housing and is supported on a rubber insulator at the frame center cross member which forms the
rear
engine
support.

All
4-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a
transfer
case attached to the
rear
of the trans­mission.
Transfer
case service and repair procedures

are
described in Section
K.

Models
CJ-5A,
and
CJ-6A
are equipped with the
same transmission, but with a remote control shift.
Models DJ-5 and DJ-6 are equipped with a similar

transmission,
however, the construction is
some­
what different because it is not designed to receive a transfer case for four-wheel drive.

For
DJ-5 and DJ-6 2WD vehicles, the trans­ mission repair procedures begin with Par. J-12.
J-2.
TRANSMISSION SHIFTING CONTROL
The
shift of the three-speed transmission is smooth

and
positive. The cane control lever shifts the trans­
mission gears direct from the shift control housing
mounted to the top side of the transmission housing.

The
remote control lever shifts the transmission
gears through remote control rods attached to the

adjusting
levers of the shift shafts protruding from the left side of the transmission housing. Poppet
balls and springs retain the transmission gears in mesh and an interlocking mechanism prevents
shifting into two gears at the same time.
J-3.
Transmission Remote Control Adjustment
•
Early
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A

First
disconnect the transmission shift rods from the remote control levers.
Check
for binding of
the remote control shaft on the steering column

and
make the necessary corrections to eliminate any binding condition.

If
the shift is not smooth and positive, first make

sure
the gears are in neutral position then remove
the shift rods at the transmission by removing
clevis pins, Fig. J-l No. 17, and slip a short piece
of snug fitting 34" [6,35 mm.] aligning rod, through
the gearshift levers and housing as shown in insert
drawing.

This
places the clutch and shift lever assemblies

in
the neutral position. Adjust the shift rod yokes
at the transmission end, so clevis pins can be in­ stalled freely without moving the shift levers on the
transmission after which remove alignment pin.
If
shifting from first to second is difficult or trans­
mission hangs in first gear, shorten the low and
reverse shift rod one
turn
at a time until the con­
dition is corrected. Usually three turns are re­

quired.

Should
the fault continue after completing the above adjustment, check further as outlined below.

First
remove the lubricating fitting. Use a narrow
feeler
gauge
which
will
enter the opening for the
lubricator
and check the clearance
between
the
faces of the shifting clutches.
This
clearance should
be .015" to .031", [W to W]
[0,397-0,794
mm.]. If
this clearance is greater the assembly must be removed for adjustment. The shift dog, which

engages
the clutch slots, should not have more than .009" [0,229 mm.] clearance in the slots. If the clear­
ance
between
the clutch
grooves
and cross pins is
too great,
these
parts must be replaced.
J-4.
Removal
of
Remote Control
m
Early
CJ-5A,
CJ-6A

•
Refer to Fig. J-l

To
remove the remote control the following pro­ cedure is
suggested:

a.
Remove shifting rods from the transmission

and
also from the steering remote control clutch levers. 239

THREE-SPEED
TRANSMISSION

FIG.
J-l—TRANSMISSION

REMOTE
CONTROL
CJ-5
A,
CJ-6A

1— Stop Screw
2—
Bias
Spring

3—
Gearshift
Lever
4—
Lever
Ball

5—
Steering
Wheel 6—
Horn
Button 7—
Column
and Bearing
8—
End
Huts
9—
Shift
Rod
Ends

10—
Shift
Rod
11—
Shift
Rod
12—
Cross-Shift
Bracket

13—
Control
Shaft
14—
Lubrication
Fitting
15—
Lever
and
Clutch

16—
Adjusting
Yoke

17—
Aligning
Rod 11706

b.
Remove gearshift lever fulcrum pin and the
gearshift lever.

c.
Remove plates on the toe board at the steer­
ing
post.

d.
Remove two screws holding remote control
housing to the steering
post
and lift the housing
from
the positioning pin.

e.
Remove the assembly down through the floor
pan.

f. Remove the lower clutch and shift lever from the housing by turning counterclockwise.
g. Remove upper clutch and shift lever in the same

manner.

h. Wash all parts in a suitable cleaning solution.

J-5.
Reassembly of
Remote
Control
•
Refer to
Fig.
J-l

Check
clearance of shift dog which
engages
in slot
of clutches, and if found to be greater than .009" [0,229 mm.] clearance, replace the worn parts.
Assemble upper clutch lever assembly in housing
making
sure that the alignment
hole
in the housing
faces toward the engine.
Turn
the upper lever as­
sembly in as far as it
will
go and then back off one

full
turn
until the
hole
in the clutch lever aligns

with
hole
in the housing.
Assemble the lower clutch lever assembly in hous­ ing until faces of clutches contact then back off
not more than one-half
turn
which should bring
the aligning
hole
in the lever in line with the
hole
in
the housing. If the one-half
turn
does
not bring
the alignment
hole
in proper position, it
will
be
necessary to grind off (square with axis not to exceed .015") [0,397 mm.] the face of the lower

clutch;
in other words, backing off not more than
one-half
turn
from face to face contact
gives
the

proper
clearance of .015" to .031"
[0,397-0,794
mm.]

between
the two clutches.
Assemble the unit to the steering
post
in reverse

order
of dismantling and adjust remote control

rods.
After
assembly, if the shift dog catches on the
edge

of the slot in the clutch when moving the lever up

and
down, disconnect the shift rod at the
transmission
end and either lengthen or shorten it
slightly to correct this condition.

J-6.
TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL
The
following repair procedures given in Par. J-7
through J-ll for the standard
3-speed
transmission
apply
in general to all models listed. Minor dif­
ferences
between
models that affect the procedure

are
noted. Procedure for the optional
4-speed
trans­mission
begins
with Section
J-l.

Removal
is as follows:

a.
Drain
the transmission and transfer case. Re­ place the
drain
plugs.

b.
Remove the floor pan inspection plate.

c.
Remove the shift lever and shift housing as­ sembly and its gasket from the transmission. On 240

M
FRONT
AXLE
1— Nut
2—
Lock
Washer

3—
Bearing
Lock
Washer
4—
Wheel
Bearing Cup 5—
Cone
and Rollers
6—
Oil
Seal 7— Spindle
8— Spindle Bushing
9—
Filler
Plug
10—
Right
Knuckle and Arm
11— Shims
12— Pivot Pin
13—
Lock
Washer
14—
Cap
Screw
15— Nut
16—
Washer

17—
Universal
Joint Yoke
18—
Oil
Seal
19—
Oil
Slinger
FIG.
M-2—FRONT
AXLE

20—
Cone
and Rollers
21—
Bearing
Cup
22—
Right
Axle Shaft with Universal Joint
23—
Knuckle
Oil Seal Retainer
24— Housing Breather 25—
Front
Axle Housing
26—
Axle
Shaft with Universal Joint
27—
Oil
Seal
28—
Axle
Shaft Guide
29—
Shim
Pack
30—
Bearing
Cup
31—
Cone
and Rollers
32—
Ring
Gear
and Pinion
33—
Thrust
Washer

34—
Thrust
Washer

35—
Differential
Gears
36— Housing Cover Gasket
37— Housing Cover
38—
Fill
Plug 39—
Screw
and
Lock
Washer
40—
Bearing
Cup
41—
Cone
and Rollers
42— Shims
43—
Lock
Pin
44—
Pinion
Shaft
45—
Differential
Case
47— Bolts
48— Nut
49—
Oil
Seal and Backing Ring
50—
Thrust
Washer
51— Snap Ring
52— Stop Bolt
53— Nut 54—
Bearing
Cup
55—
Cone
and Rollers
56—
Gasket

checked, making sure it is clean and open.

The
front wheel bearings should be checked every
12,000
miles. Refer to Section Q. Front wheel toe-

in
is adjustable by lengthening or shortening the
tie rod. However, standard caster and camber of
the front
wheels
are built
into
the axle. Wheel
caster can be adjusted by placing tapered shim
plates or
wedges
between
the springs and spring

seats
welded to the axle housing. Steering
geometry

and
front wheel adjustments are discussed in Sec­ tion O.

The
axle housing should be checked periodically
for weld cracks and/or other damage that may cause misalignment of the front
wheels
or
loss

of lubricant. The spring clips (U-bolts) should be
inspected and torqued every
12,000
miles. Torque (spring clip) nuts 45 to 50 lb-ft. [6,2 a 6,9 kg-m.].

M-4. FRONT
AXLE
REMOVAL
a.
Raise front end of vehicle
arid
safely support the frame by placing stands under the frame at
the rear of the front spring rear hangers.
b. Place
jack
under front axle housing and relieve
axle
weight
from the springs.
c. Disconnect shock absorbers from spring clip plates.
FIG.
M-3—HUB
CAP
PULLER

d.
Disconnect steering link from tie rod socket-
joint assembly.
e. Disconnect hydraulic brake
hoses
from front

brake
lines. Disconnect
hoses
from frame brackets. 278

FRONT
AXLE

FIG.
M-l
1—FRONT
STEERING

KNUCKLE

(With
Spicer Universal Joint)
1—
Wheel
Hub Cap

2—
Driving
Flange Cap Screw

3—
Axle
Shaft Drive Flange Gasket 4—
Wheel
Bearing Cup
5—
Front
Wheel Spindle
6—
Brake
Drum
7—
Front
Brake
Cylinder

8—
Brake
Backing Plate

9—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap
10—
Pivot
Pin Bearing Cap Nut
11—
Pivot
Pin 12—
Pivot
Bearing Adjusting Shims

13—
Pivot
Pin Cone and Rollers
14—
Steering
Knuckle
Oil Seal 15—
Front
Axle Universal Joint
16—
Thrust
Washer
17—
Brake
Backing Plate Screw
18—
Brake
Shoe and
Lining

19—
Hub
Oil Seal
20—
Wheel
Hub Bolt Nut
21—
Wheel
Bearing Cone and Rollers 22—
Wheel
Bearing Washer

23—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
24—
Wheel
Adjusting Nut
Lock
Washer
25—
Wheel
Bearing Retaining Nut
26—
Snap
Ring

c.
Install
the wheel bearing spindle and bushing.
d.
Install
brake backing plate.
e.
Grease and assemble wheel bearings and oil

seal.
Install
the wheel hub and drum on the wheel
bearing
spindle.
Install
the wheel bearing washer
and
adjusting nut. Tighten nut with
Wrench
W-144
as shown in
Fig.
M-5, until there is a slight drag on the bearings when the hub is turned.
Then
back off approximately one-sixth of a
turn.
Install
lock

washer
and nut, tightening nut
into
place, and then bend lip of lock washer over on the locknut.
f.
Install
drive
flange
and gasket on hub and attach
with
six cap screws and lock washers.
Install
snap

ring
on outer end of axle shaft.

g.
Install
hub cap.
h.
Install
the wheel, lug nuts, and wheel disc.
i.
If
tube
was installed with axle assembly on
vehicle, check front wheel alignment (Section O),
bleed brakes (Section P), and lubricate front axle

universal
joints (Section B).

M-12.
FRONT
AXLE
INSTALLATION

To
install the front axle, reverse the procedures described in
Par.
M-4 and then perform the follow­
ing operations:

a.
Torque spring clip plate (U-bolt) nuts securing the axle to the front springs, (see Par. M-4).

b.
Adjust and bleed the brakes (see Section P).

c.
Check
axle lubricant level and
fill
as necessary, (see Section B).

d.
Check
front end wheel alignment (see Section
O).
e.
Check
wheel turning angle. Refer to Par. M-14.
M-13.
Steering
Tie Rod and
Bell Crank

These
parts of the front axle are covered in Sec­
tion O.
M-14.
4-Wheel Drive
Turning
Angle

Adjustment
and service information regarding
turning
angles
is covered in Section O.

M-15.
2-WHEEL-DRIVE
FRONT
AXLE
The
front axle is of the reverse
Elliot
type. It is a
steel forging, heat treated for strength and ma­
chined
to
close
limits. The steering knuckles are
mounted on pins which pass through
openings
at each end of the
"I"
beam and are locked securely

in
position with tapered pins and nuts. The knuckles

ride
on
ball
thrust bearings for
ease
of steering. See
Figs.
M-12, M-13.

The
knuckles are connected by a tie rod which is
mounted on
ball
and socket connections. The tie

rod
is adjustable to secure correct
toe-in
of the front wheels. A steering connecting rod
connects

the
left
knuckle arm with the steering gear arm.

Standard
caster and camber of the front
wheels
are
built
into
the front axle. Wheel camber cannot
be changed however, caster can be adjusted by

placing
tapered shims or
wedges
between
the
springs and spring seats. For
complete
information

regarding
the steering
geometry
refer to the
Section O.

M-16.
Removal of Solid
Front
Axle

Note:
The procedure for removing the solid front
axle varies slightly, depending on whether the
springs are slung under or over the axle. These

variations
are
noted
in the following procedure.

a. -
Raise the front end of the vehicle and safely support the frame behind the springs.

b.
Remove the
wheels
by removing the wheel
discs and lug nuts.

c.
Disconnect the steering connecting rod at the
ball
and socket connection on the steering knuckle. 282

N

REAR
AXLE a.
Place the transmission in neutral.

b.
Raise one wheel off the floor and place a block

in
front and at the
rear
of the
opposite
wheel.

c.
Apply a torque wrench to the axle shaft nut of
the elevated wheel.

d.
Turn
wheel with torque wrench. Disregard

breakaway
torque and observe torque required to
continuously
turn
wheel smoothly. Torque should
read
40 lb-ft [5,53 kg-m.] or more.

N-23. Powr-Lok
Differential Disassembly
/
and Reassembly

Refer
to
Figs.
N-38 and N-39.
The
procedure for overhauling disc type
Powr-Lok

differentials is as follows:

a.
Remove axle shafts following procedure de­
scribed
in Par. N-2.

b.
Remove housing cover and gasket.

c.
Remove the
Powr-Lok
differential from the axle.
Do not remove the ring gear or bearing
cone
and

rollers
unless replacement is to be made.
Mark
the hearing cups so they may later be reassembled

with
the same bearing cones.
Mark
the differential
case halves for correct alignment at reassembly.
Each
pinion mate cross shaft should also be marked
so that each pin cam surface
will
match with the
same
V-ramp
in the case when reassembled.

d.
Separate the case halves. e. Remove the disc and plate
sets.
The illustration
(Fig.
N-39) shows the arrangement of plates and

discs.
When reassembling unit, discs and plates must be reinstalled in this arrangement. Be sure
to keep in mind which way the set
will
face toward the case.

^®(j)(j)CD©
® /'Ml
I
11
11 v

FIG.
N-39—PLATE
ASSEMBLY
ORPER
A—Model
44
B—Model
27 1—
Case
5—Disc

2—
Belleville
Plate
6—Thin
Plate

3—
Belleville
Disc
7—Sidegear
Ring

4—Plate
8—Side
Gear
f. Remove the pinion mate cross shafts, bevel
pinion mate gears, bevel side gears, and side gear

rings.

g.
Clean
all parts thoroughly in kerosene and dry

with
compressed air.

h.
Inspect all parts. Replace any items which ap­

pear
to be worn or damaged.

i.
Inspect the plate surfaces of the case halves, the
side gear rings, and the clutch friction plates and
discs for excessive wear or scoring.

j.
Inspect the pinion mate shaft and ramp
sur­

faces on the case for excessive wear and pitting,

k.
Inspect the pinion gear races that bear on the
side gear rings.

I.
Inspect the corresponding surfaces on the side
gear rings.

m.
Inspect the clutch plates and discs for cracks

and
distortion. In the
event
one or more of the

clutch
plates or discs
needs
replacing, replace the
entire stack of plates and discs on each side of
the pinions. These stacks are supplied in
sets.

The
differential case halves are not serviced. Should replacement be required, it is necesary to replace
the complete differential.

n.
Assemble the clutch friction plates, clutch
fric­

tion discs, and dished plates on the splined hub of each bevel side gear. Make sure the plates and
discs are installed in the proper relationship as shown in Fig. N-39. The dished plates in the plate

and
disc set are always assembled with the convex
side toward the case. As each part is reassembled

in
its proper position, it is necessary that it be lightly coated with
Powr-Lok
lubricant,

o.
Place each differential case
half
on its side and
install
the side gear rings with the plates and discs
assembled. The side gear ring
will
rotate with a slight drag when properly located in the case,
p.
With
the ring gear flange
half
of the differential
case in an upright position, assemble the bevel side gears, pinion mate cross shafts, and bevel pinion
mate gears.
Install
the remaining case
half
on the
ring
gear flange half. Make sure that all markings
coincide.

q.
Install
the differential case
bolts
and
turn
them

in
a few threads.

r.
Using axle shafts from the vehicle, align the
splines of the side gear, and the side gear
ring,

s.
With
these
axle shafts in position, tighten the

differential
case
bolts
evenly. Torque 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,84 a 6,22 kg-m.].
t. Remove the axle shafts.

u.
Check
for proper assembly.
Each
pinion mate
cross shaft should be tight on its
ramp.
If there is

clearance
between
the cross shaft and the
ramp,

the clearance should be no more than .005" [0,127 mm.].

This
clearance should be equal on all four cross
shaft ends.
v. Reinstall the unit in the axle.

w.
Install
axle shafts as described in Par. N-2.
Other
service operations such as ring gear and
pinion replacement, or pinion and bearing adjust­ ments, are performed in the same manner as de- 302