2013 YAMAHA YZ125LC checking oil

1-7
CHECKING OF CONNECTION
4. During the machine disassembly,
clean all parts and place them in
trays in the order of disassembly.
This will speed up assembly time
and help assure that all parts are
correctly reinstalled.
5. Keep away from fire.
ALL REPLACEMENT PARTS
1. We recommend to use Yamaha
genuine parts for all replace-
ments. Use oil and/or grease rec-
ommended by Yamaha for
assembly and adjustment.
GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-
RINGS
1. All gaskets, oil seals, and O-rings
should be replaced when an en-
gine is overhauled. All gasket sur-
faces, oil seal lips, and O-rings
must be cleaned.
2. Properly oil all mating parts and
bearings during reassembly. Ap-
ply grease to the oil seal lips.
LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND
COTTER PINS
1. All lock washers/plates "1" and
cotter pins must be replaced
when they are removed. Lock
tab(s) should be bent along the
bolt or nut flat(s) after the bolt or
nut has been properly tightened.BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS
1. Install the bearing(s) "1" and oil
seal(s) "2" with their manufactur-
er's marks or numbers facing out-
ward. (In other words, the
stamped letters must be on the
side exposed to view.) When in-
stalling oil seal(s), apply a light
coating of lightweight lithium base
grease to the seal lip(s). Oil the
bearings liberally when installing.
Do not use compressed air to spin
the bearings dry. This causes dam-
age to the bearing surfaces.
CIRCLIPS
1. All circlips should be inspected
carefully before reassembly. Al-
ways replace piston pin clips after
one use. Replace distorted cir-
clips. When installing a circlip "1",
make sure that the sharp-edged
corner "2" is positioned opposite
to the thrust "3" it receives. See
the sectional view.
CHECKING OF
CONNECTION
Dealing with stains, rust, moisture,
etc. on the connector.
1. Disconnect:
• Connector
2. Dry each terminal with an air
blower.3. Connect and disconnect the con-
nector two or three times.
4. Pull the lead to check that it will
not come off.
5. If the terminal comes off, bend up
the pin "1" and reinsert the termi-
nal into the connector.
6. Connect:
• Connector
The two connectors "click" together.
7. Check for continuity with a tester.
• If there in no continuity, clean the
terminals.
• Be sure to perform the steps 1 to 7
listed above when checking the
wire harness.
• For a field remedy, use a contact re-
vitalizer available on the market.
• Use the tester on the connector as
shown.

1-10
SPECIAL TOOLS
Fork seal driver
YM-A0948, 90890-01502 This tool is used when install the fork
oil seal.
Spoke nipple wrench
YM-01521, 90890-01521 This tool is used to tighten the
spoke.
Pocket tester
YU-3112-C, 90890-03112 Use this tool to inspect the coil resis-
tance, output voltage and amper-
age.
Clutch holding tool
YM-91042, 90890-04086This tool is used to hold the clutch
when removing or installing the
clutch boss securing nut.
Dynamic spark tester
YM-34487
Ignition checker
90890-06754This instrument is necessary for
checking the ignition system compo-
nents.
Yamaha Bond No. 1215 (Three-
Bond
® No. 1215)
90890-85505This sealant (Bond) is used for
crankcase mating surface, etc. Tool name/Part number How to use Illustration

3-6
ENGINE
ENGINE
CHECKING THE COOLANT LEVEL
Do not remove the radiator cap
"1", drain bolt and hoses when the
engine and radiator are hot. Scald-
ing hot fluid and steam may be
blown out under pressure, which
could cause serious injury. When
the engine has cooled, place a
thick towel over the radiator cap,
slowly rotate the cap counter-
clockwise to the detent. This pro-
cedure allows any residual
pressure to escape. When the
hissing sound has stopped, press
down on the cap while turning
counterclockwise and remove it.
Hard water or salt water is harmful
to the engine parts. You may use
distilled water, if you can't get soft
water.
1. Place the machine on a level
place, and hold it in an upright po-
sition.
2. Remove:
• Radiator cap
3. Check:
• Coolant level "a"
Coolant level low →Add coolant.
1. Radiator
CHANGING THE COOLANT
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine is hot.
Take care so that coolant does not
splash on painted surfaces. If it
splashes, wash it away with water.
1. Place a container under the en-
gine.2. Remove:
• Coolant drain bolt "1"
3. Remove:
• Radiator cap
Drain the coolant completely.
4. Clean:
• Cooling system
Thoroughly flush the cooling sys-
tem with clean tap water.
5. Install:
• Copper washer
• Coolant drain bolt
6. Fill:
• Radiator
•Engine
To specified level.
• Do not mix more than one type of
ethylene glycol antifreeze con-
taining corrosion inhibitors for
aluminum engine.
• Do not use water containing im-
purities or oil.
Handling notes of coolant:
The coolant is harmful so it should be
handled with special care.
• When coolant splashes to your
eye.
Thoroughly wash your eye with
water and see your doctor.
• When coolant splashes to your
clothes.
Quickly wash it away with water
and then with soap.
• When coolant is swallowed.
Quickly make him vomit and take
him to a doctor.
7. Install:
• Radiator cap
Start the engine and warm it up
for a several minutes.
8. Check:
• Coolant level
Coolant level low→Add coolant.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
1. Inspect:
• Seal (radiator cap) "1"
• Valve and valve seat "2"
Crack/damage →Replace.
Exist fur deposits "3" →Clean or
replace.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
OPENING PRESSURE
1. Attach:
• Radiator cap tester "1" and adapt-
er "2"
Apply water on the radiator cap seal.
Coolant drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Recommended coolant:
High quality ethylene
glycol anti-freeze con-
taining anti-corrosion
for aluminum engine
Coolant "1" and water
(soft water) "2" mixing ra-
tio:
50%/50%
Coolant capacity:
0.9 L (0.79 Imp qt, 0.95
US qt)
Radiator cap tester:
YU-24460-01/90890-
01325
Radiator cap tester
adapter:
YU-33984/90890-01352

3-8
ENGINE
LUBRICATING THE THROTTLE
1. Remove:
• Cap cover "1"
• Throttle cable cap "2"
2. Apply:
• Lithium soap base grease
On the throttle cable end "a", tube
guide cable winding portion "b"
and roller sliding surface "c".
3. Install:
• Throttle cable cap
• Cap cover
CLEANING THE AIR FILTER
ELEMENT
Proper air filter maintenance is the
biggest key to preventing premature
engine wear and damage.
Never run the engine without the
air filter element in place; this
would allow dirt and dust to enter
the engine and cause rapid wear
and possible engine damage.
1. Remove:
• Seat
• Fitting bolt "1"
• Washer "2"
• Air filter element "3"
• Air filter guide "4"2. Clean:
• Air filter element
Clean them with solvent.
After cleaning, remove the remaining
solvent by squeezing the element.
• Do not twist the element when
squeezing the element.
• Leaving too much of solvent in
the element may result in poor
starting.
3. Inspect:
• Air filter element
Damage →Replace.
4. Apply:
• Foam-air-filter oil or equivalent oil
to the element
Squeeze out the excess oil. Element
should be wet but not dripping.
5. Install:
• Air filter guide "1"
Align the projection "a" on filter guide
with the hole "b" in air filter element.
6. Apply:
• Lithium soap base grease
On the matching surface "a" on air
filter element.7. Install:
• Air filter element "1"
• Washer
• Fitting bolt
Align the projection "a" on filter guide
with the hole "b" in air filter case.
CHECKING THE TRANSMISSION
OIL LEVEL
1. Start the engine, warm it up for
several minutes and wait for five
minutes.
2. Place the machine on a level
place and hold it up on upright po-
sition by placing the suitable
stand under the engine.
3. Check:
• Transmission oil level
Transmission oil level checking
steps:
a. Remove the oil check bolt "1".
b. Inspect the oil level.
Be sure the machine is positioned
straight up when inspecting the oil
level.
Never attempt to remove the oil
check bolt just after high speed
operation. The heated oil could
spout out, causing danger. Wait
until the oil cools down.
Oil flows out → Oil level is correct.
Oil does not flow out → Oil level
is low. Add transmission oil until
oil flows out. Throttle cable cap:
0.5 Nm (0.05 m•kg, 0.36
ft•lb)
Fitting bolt:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Recommended brand:
YAMALUBE
Recommended engine
oil type
SAE10W-40
Recommended engine
oil grade
API service SG type or
higher
JASO standard MA

3-9
CHASSIS
c. Inspect the gasket (oil check bolt),
replace if damaged.
d. Tighten the oil check bolt.
CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION
OIL
1. Start the engine and warm it up
for several minutes and wait for
five minute.
2. Place the machine on a level
place and hold it on upright posi-
tion by placing the suitable stand
under the engine.
3. Place a suitable container under
the engine.
4. Remove:
• Oil drain bolt "1"
• Oil filler cap "2"
Drain the transmission oil.
5. Install:
• Aluminum washer
• Oil drain bolt "1"6. Fill:
• Transmission oil
7. Check:
• Oil leakage
8. Check:
• Transmission oil level
9. Install:
• Oil filler cap "2"
ADJUSTING THE PILOT AIR
SCREW
1. Adjust:
• Pilot air screw "1"
Adjustment steps:
a. Screw in the pilot air screw until it
is lightly seated.
b. Back out by the specified number
of turns.
ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING
SPEED
1. Start the engine and thoroughly
warm it up.
2. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Adjustment steps:
a. Loosen the locknut "1".
b. Turn the throttle stop screw "2"
until the engine runs at the lowest
possible speed.
c. Tighten the locknut.
CHECKING THE EXHAUST PIPE
1. Inspect:
• O-ring "1"
Damage →Replace.
Install the O-rings with their de-
pressed "a" facing outward.
CHASSIS
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC
BRAKE SYSTEM
Bleed the brake system if:
• The system has been disassem-
bled.
• A brake hose has been loosened
or removed.
• The brake fluid is very low.
• The brake operation is faulty.
A dangerous loss of braking per-
formance may occur if the brake
system is not properly bled.
1. Remove:
• Brake master cylinder cap
• Diaphragm
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Protector (rear brake)
2. Bleed:
• Brake fluid
Air bleeding steps:
a. Add proper brake fluid to the res-
ervoir.
b. Install the diaphragm. Be careful
not to spill any fluid or allow the
reservoir to overflow.
c. Connect the clear plastic tube "2"
tightly to the caliper bleed screw
"1". Oil check bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Oil drain bolt:
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Recommended brand:
YAMALUBE
Recommended engine
oil type
SAE10W-40
Recommended engine
oil grade
API service SG type or
higher
JASO standard MA
Oil capacity (periodic oil
change):
0.66 L (0.58 Imp qt, 0.69
US qt)
Pilot air screw:
2-1/4 turns out
To increase idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "2" in.
To decrease idle speed→Turn the
throttle stop screw "2" out.

3-13
CHASSIS
2. Remove:
• Master link clip
•Joint "1"
• Drive chain "2"
3. Clean:
• Drive chain
Place it in kerosene, and brush off
as much dirt as possible. Then re-
move the drive chain from the ker-
osene and dry the drive chain.
4. Check:
• Drive chain stiffness "a"
Clean and oil the drive chain and
hold as illustrated.
Stiff → Replace the drive chain.
5. Install:
• Drive chain "1"
•Joint "2"
• Master link clip "3"
Be sure to install the master link
clip to the direction as shown.
a. Turning direction6. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification → Adjust.

Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3".c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.) NOTICE: Im-
proper drive chain slack will
overload the engine as well as
other vital parts of the motorcy-
cle and can lead to chain slip-
page or breakage. To prevent
this from occurring, keep the
drive chain slack within the
specified limits.
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.
e. Tighten the locknuts.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage →
Repair or replace.

Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-40 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack "a":
48–58 mm (1.9–2.3 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.
Axle nut:
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)

3-14
CHASSIS
CLEANING THE FRONT FORK OIL
SEAL AND DUST SEAL
1. Remove:
•Protector
• Dust seal "1"
Use a thin screw driver, and be care-
ful not to damage the inner fork tube
and dust seal.
2. Clean:
• Dust seal "a"
• Oil seal "b"
• Clean the dust seal and oil seal af-
ter every run.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
RELIEVING THE FRONT FORK
INTERNAL PRESSURE
If the front fork initial movement feels
stiff during a run, relieve the front fork
internal pressure.
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Remove the air bleed screw "1"
and release the internal pressure
from the front fork.
3. Install:
• Air bleed screwADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
REBOUND DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Rebound damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage → Replace.

ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER SPRING PRELOAD
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Rear frame Air bleed screw:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Stiffer "a" →Increase the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
14 clicks out
* 13 clicks out
* For EUROPE
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
13 clicks out
* 12 clicks out
* For EUROPE

4-21
CLUTCH
REMOVING THE CLUTCH BOSS
1. Remove:
•Nut "1"
• Lock washer "2"
• Clutch boss "3"
Straighten the lock washer tab and
use the clutch holding tool "4" to hold
the clutch boss.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
CHECKING THE CLUTCH
HOUSING AND BOSS
1. Inspect:
• Clutch housing "1"
Cracks/wear/damage → R e p l a c e .
• Clutch boss "2"
Scoring/wear/damage → Re-
place.
CHECKING THE PRIMARY DRIVEN
GEAR
1. Check:
• Circumferential play
Free play exists → Replace.

• Gear teeth "a"
Wear/damage → Replace. CHECKING THE CLUTCH
SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Clutch spring free length "a"
Out of specification → Replace
springs as a set.
CHECKING THE FRICTION
PLATES
1. Measure:
• Friction plate thickness
Out of specification → Replace
friction plate as a set.
Measure at all four points.
CHECKING THE CLUTCH PLATES
1. Measure:
• Clutch plate warpage
Out of specification → Replace
clutch plate as a set.
Use a surface plate "1" and thick-
ness gauge "2".CHECKING THE PUSH LEVER
SHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Push lever shaft "1"
Wear/Damage → Replace.
CHECKING THE PUSH ROD
1. Inspect:
• Push rod 1 "1"
• Bearing "2"
• Washer "3"
• Push rod 2 "4"
•Ball "5"
Wear/damage/bend → Replace.
INSTALLING THE PUSH LEVER
SHAFT
1. Install:
• Push lever shaft "1"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip and push lever
shaft.
INSTALLING THE CLUTCH
1. Install:
• Thrust washer [D=ø34 mm (1.34
in)] "1"
• Spacer "2"
• Bearing "3"
• Primary driven gear "4"
Apply the transmission oil on the
bearing, spacer and primary driven
gear inner circumference.
Clutch holding tool:
YM-91042/90890-04086
Clutch spring free length
"a":
40.1 mm (1.579 in)
: 38.1 mm
(1.500 in)
Friction plate thickness:
2.9–3.1 mm (0.114–
0.122 in)
: 2.8 mm (0.110
in)
Warp limit:
0.2 mm (0.008 in)