2009 GMC SAVANA PASSENGER light

Off-Road Recovery
The vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a
road onto the shoulder while driving.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way,
steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the
pavement. Turn the steering wheel 3 to 5 inches,
8 to 13 cm, (about one-eighth turn) until the right front
tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering
wheel to go straight down the roadway.
Passing
Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be
dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing:
•Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads
for situations that might affect a successful pass.
If in doubt, wait.
•Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and
lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection.
Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side
of the lane.
•Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to
pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.
•Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle.
•When you are being passed, ease to the right.
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Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving
because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
Night driving tips include:
•Drive defensively.
•Do not drink and drive.
•Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
•Slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles because headlamps can only light up
so much road ahead.
•Watch for animals.
•When tired, pull off the road.
•Do not wear sunglasses.
•Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
•Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out.
•Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or
curves.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But, as
we get older, these differences increase. A 50-year-old
driver might need at least twice as much light to see the
same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction
and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always
drive slower in these types of driving conditions
and avoid driving through large puddles and
deep-standing or flowing water.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not
work as well in a quick stop and could cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of the
vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water or a
car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake pedal until
the brakes work normally.
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.
Driving through flowing water could cause your
vehicle to be carried away. If this happens, you
and other vehicle occupants could drown. Do not
ignore police warnings and be very cautious about
trying to drive through flowing water.
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To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine off
and close the window most of the way to save heat.
Repeat this until help arrives but only when you
feel really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to
keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator
pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle
speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart
the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps.
Do this as little as possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-18.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help
to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin
the wheels as little as possible and avoid going
above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-78.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the
area around the front wheels. Turn off any traction
or stability system. Shift back and forth between
R (Reverse) and a forward gear, spinning the wheels as
little as possible. To prevent transmission wear, wait
until the wheels stop spinning before shifting gears.
Release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and press
lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission
is in gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and
reverse directions causes a rocking motion that could
free the vehicle. If that does not get the vehicle out
after a few tries, it might need to be towed out. If the
vehicle does need to be towed out, seeTowing
Your Vehicle on page 4-24.
Loading the Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all
occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on your vehicle show how
much weight it was designed to carry, the Tire
and Loading Information label and the Certification/
Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or
either the maximum front or rear Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on the
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of the vehicle.
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•Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that a
trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps
the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
•Vehicles with an automatic transmissions can tow in
D (Drive). Shift the transmission to a lower gear if
the transmission shifts too often under heavy
loads and/or hilly conditions.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
•The weight of the trailer
•The weight of the trailer tongue
•The weight on the vehicle’s tires
Also see Tow/Haul later in this section for information
about the Tow/Haul button and the Tow/Haul indicator
light.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed,
altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how
much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all
important. It can depend on any special equipment on
the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle
can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in
this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
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If the loaded trailer being pulled will weigh more than
5,000 lbs (2 270 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted
weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper
size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle
loading and good handling when driving. Always use a
sway control if the trailer will weigh more than these
limits. Ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
Will any holes need to be made in the body of the
vehicle when a trailer hitch is installed?
If using the wiring provided with the factory-installed
trailering package, no holes need to be made in
the body of the vehicle. However, if an aftermarket hitch
is installed, holes may need to be made in the body.
If holes are made in the body, then be sure to seal the
holes later when the hitch is removed. If the holes
are not sealed, deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the
engine’s exhaust can get into the vehicle as well as
dirt and water. See “Carbon Monoxide” underEngine
Exhaust on page 2-30.
Safety Chains
Always attach chains between the vehicle and the
trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the
trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always
leave just enough slack so the rig can turn. Never
allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Tow/Haul Mode
Pressing this button at
the end of the shift lever
turns on and off the
tow/haul mode.
This indicator light on the
instrument panel cluster
comes on when the
tow/haul mode is on.
Tow/Haul is a feature that assists when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load. SeeTow/Haul Mode
on page 2-25for more information.
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Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the
vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75 percent
of the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating
(GCWR). See “Weight of the Trailer” later in the section.
Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving
conditions:
•When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy
load through rolling terrain.
•When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy
load in stop and go traffic.
•When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy
load in busy parking lots where improved low
speed control of the vehicle is desired.
Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly loaded
or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However,
there is no benefit to the selection of Tow/Haul when
the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded
may result in unpleasant engine and transmission
driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy.
Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load.
Trailer Brakes
A loaded trailer that weighs more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg)
needs to have its own brake system that is adequate for
the weight of the trailer. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes so they are installed,
adjusted and maintained properly.
Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect at
the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate,
trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
To maximize safety when towing a trailer:
•Have the exhaust system inspected for
leaks and make necessary repairs before
starting a trip.
•Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or
rear-most window open.
•Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
•Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that brings in only outside air and set the fan
speed to the highest setting. See Climate
Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 2-30
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Trailer Wiring Harness
The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring package includes
a wiring harness, with a seven-pin connector at the
rear of the vehicle and a four-wire harness assembly
under the driver side of the instrument panel. The
four-wire harness assembly comes without a connector.
If the vehicle does not have a trailer hitch, the
seven-wire harness assembly with connector is taped
together and located in a frame pocket at the driver side
rear left corner of the frame.
If the vehicle has a trailer hitch, the seven-wire harness
assembly with connector is attached to a bracket on
the hitch platform. In both cases, the seven-wire harness
has a connector and includes a 30-amp feed wire.
The seven-wire harness connector contains the following
trailer circuits:
•Light Green: Back-up Lamps (10A fuse)**
•White: Ground
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Dark Green: Right Rear Stop and Turn Signal*
•Red/Black Stripe: Battery Feed (30A Fuse)
•Brown: Trailer Park Lamp Supply Voltage
(15A fuse)**
•Yellow: Left Rear Stop and Turn Signal *The four-wire harness (without connector) contains the
following circuits:
•Black: Ground
•Red/White: Battery Feed
•Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
•Light Blue: CHMSL/Stoplamp Supply Voltage
* If the vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions, a
15 amp fuse will be shared for both left/stop trailer turn
and right/stop trailer turn signals. However, the
cutaway lighting connector will have a 10 amp fuse for
each signal.
** If the vehicle is a cutaway with trailer provisions, a
15 amp fuse will be shared for trailer park lamps
and cutaway rear lighting connector park lamps. Also, a
10 amp fuse will be shared for trailer back-up lamps
and cutaway rear lighting connector back-up lamps.
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