2009 CHEVROLET UPLANDER tow

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers, or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And if you
will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the
GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight,
too. SeeLoading the Vehicle on page 4-19for more
information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.If you are using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing
hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B).
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight of
350 lbs (159 kg) for your vehicle.
After you have loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are
proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to carry
tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause the vehicle
to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) or
the RGAWR (Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect
of additional weight may reduce your trailering capacity
more than the total of the additional weight.
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Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow
the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety
chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig.
Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you will be able to install, adjust,
and maintain them properly.
Because your vehicle may have anti-lock brakes, do not
try to tap into your vehicle’s brake system. If you do,
both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect
at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate,
trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
To maximize safety when towing a trailer:
Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks
and make necessary repairs before starting
a trip.
Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch, or
rear-most window open.
Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that brings in only outside air and set the fan
speed to the highest setting. See Climate
Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 2-41
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Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you will want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires, and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead when
you are towing a trailer. And, because you are a good
deal longer, you will need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you are turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer will not strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees, or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring.
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you are about to turn, change lanes, or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are
seeing your signal when they are not. It is important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving on Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you do not shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than
1,000 lbs (450 kg), you may prefer to drive in THIRD (3)
instead of DRIVE (D) or, as you need to, a lower gear.
This will minimize heat build-up and extend the life of your
transmission.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer
attached can be dangerous. If something goes
wrong, the rig could start to move. People can be
injured, and both the vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged. When possible, always park the rig on a
at surface.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, do the
following:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but do not shift into
PARK (P).
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you do the following:
Start your engine.
Shift into a gear.
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you are
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid, engine oil,
belts, cooling system, and brake system. Each of these is
covered in this manual, and the Index will help you nd
them quickly. If you are trailering, it is a good idea to
review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle may have a trailer wiring harness package
located in the glove box. It can be connected from
the rear of your vehicle to your trailer. Contact your
dealer/retailer for more information.
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A. Underhood Fuse Block. SeeUnderhood Fuse Block
on page 5-100.
B. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-37.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-32.
D. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-28.
E. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-31.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
G. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-15.
H. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick.
See “Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-21.
I. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-33.
J. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-20.
K. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling System
on page 5-23.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-14
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-15

Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare the vehicle as follows:
1. Park the vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in P (Park).
3. With the foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position
the shift lever in P (Park).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to ve minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
The automatic transmission dipstick is located
toward the back of the engine compartment, near
the brake master cylinder reservoir. The dipstick
handle is a red loop. SeeEngine Compartment
Overview on page 5-14for more information
on location.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds, and
then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The uid level must be in the
cross-hatched area.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way.
How to Add Automatic Transmission
Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transmission uid to use. SeeRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-11.
If the uid level is low, add only enough of the proper
uid to bring the level into the cross-hatched area on the
dipstick.
1. Pull out the dipstick.
2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough uid at the
dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level.
It does not take much uid, generally less than
one pint (0.5 L). Do not overll.
Notice:Use of the incorrect automatic transmission
uid may damage the vehicle, and the damages
may not be covered by the vehicle’s warranty.
Always use the automatic transmission uid listed
inRecommended Fluids and Lubricants on
page 6-11.
3. After adding uid, recheck the uid level as
described under “How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid,” earlier in this section.
4. When the correct uid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way.
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If No Steam Is Coming From The
Engine Compartment
If an engine overheat warning is displayed but no steam
can be seen or heard, the problem may not be too
serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot
when the vehicle:
Climbs a long hill on a hot day.
Stops after high-speed driving.
Idles for long periods in traffic.
Tows a trailer.
If the overheat warning is displayed with no sign of
steam:
1. Turn the air off.
2. Turn the heater on to the highest temperature and
to the highest fan speed. Open the windows as
necessary.
3. If in a traffic jam, shift to N (Neutral), otherwise,
shift to the highest gear while driving—D(Drive)
or L (Low).
If the temperature overheat gage is no longer in the
overheat zone or an overheat warning no longer displays,
the vehicle can be driven. Continue to drive the vehicle
slow for about 10 minutes. Keep a safe vehicle distance
from the car in front of you. If the warning does not come
back on, continue to drive normally.If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park the
vehicle right away.
If there is no sign of steam, idle the engine for
three minutes while parked. If the warning is still
displayed, turn off the engine until it cools down. Also,
see “Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode”
later in this section.
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode
This emergency operating mode lets the vehicle
be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation.
If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat
protection mode which alternates ring groups of
cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode,
there is a signicant loss in power and engine
performance. The temperature gage indicates an
overheat condition exists. Driving extended distances
and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode
should be avoided.
Notice:After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any
repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded.
Repair the cause of coolant loss, change the oil and
reset the oil life system. SeeEngine Oil on page 5-15.
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