303Figure 6 A/C System Electrical Appliance DiagramIII. Protecting Device1. Low temperature protection
Evaporator temperature sensor, when the sensed temperature is lower than 3°C, the compressor clutch
is de-energized and stops operation.
2. High temperature protection
Water temperature sensor, when the sensed water temperature reaches 109°C, the compressor clutch is
de-energized and stops operation.
3. Low pressure protection
When pressure sensed by the pressure switch is lower than 0.25MPa, the compressor clutch is de-
energized and stops operation.
4. Voltage protection
When the pressure sensed by the pressure switch reaches 1.7MPa, radiator fan rotates.
5. High pressure protection
When the pressure sensed by the pressure switch reaches 2.6MPa, the compressor clutch is de-energized
and stops operation.
6. Normal pressure
When system pressure reaches 0.25MPa~2.4MPa, control the A/C idle speed. Color of wire:R-Red Bl-Blue Y-Yellow Lg-Light green Br-Brown B-Black P-Pink G-Green W-White Gr-Gray
1. Battery 2. Main Fuse Box 3. Alternator 4. Ignition Switch 5. Idle Rise Valve 6. Blower 7. Relay
8. Blower Regulating Resistance 9. Blower Switch 10. A/C Switch 11. A/C Low Pressure Switch
12. Compressor 13. Condensor Fan 14. Radiator Fan 15. A/C High Pressure Switch
16. Water Temperature Sensor 17. Evaporator Temperature Sensor 18. Electronic Wind Door Actuator Switch
19. Electronic Wind Door Actuator 20. Revolution Sensor 21. Engine ECU
312Introduction Of The Refrigeration Pipeline Installation:
1. It is recommended to fill some SW-100 compressor oil into the refrigerating circulation when installing a
new refrigeration pipe or cooling hose.
Refill: (approximate)
5ml{5 cc}: Refrigeration pipe
10ml{10 cc}: Condenser hose
2. Fill compressor oil to O-ring and other connecting points.
3. Tighten the connecting points.
Nuts union or slider joint type:
1. Tighten the nuts or the bolts of the connectiong
points by hand.
2. Tighten the connecting points with specified
torque wrench. It is connected with nuts. Tighten
the nuts with a wrench or a torque wrench.
3. Clip the slider block recess with pliers or other
similar tool and clamp the pipe used to connect
slider block. Tighten the bolt or the nuts at the
connecting points with a torque wrench.
7. A/C control panel removal / installation:
1. Disconnect the negative (--) terminal cable from the battery.
2. Remove the auxiliary console.
3. Disconnect the hot and cold air cable and airflow allocating cable.
4. Remove A/C control panel.
5. Disconnect blower switch connector.
6. Remove the lighting wire harness connector.
7. Remove the inside and outside circulation switch connector.
8. The installation is in the reverse order of the removal.Slider BuldgeSlider RecessionTorque Wrench
337(8) Make sure the warning light of the airbag system on for 6s and off.
If the warning light of the airbag system is not as specified, it means system fault. Check with the OBD (on-
board diagnostics).4.Rear Seat Belt Removal / InstallationWarning
Do not remove retractor.
(1) Fold rear seat back.
(2) Remove B pillar upper inside trim.
(3) Remove rear trunk partition.
(4) Remove bolt.
(5) Remove rear seat belt.
(6) The installation is in the reverse order of the removal.
5.Rear Seat Belt Buckle Removal / Installation
(1) Remove rear seat cushion.
(2) Remove the bolt.
(3) Remove rear seat belt buckle.
(4) The installation is in the reverse order of the removal.
6. Seat Belt Inspection
(1) Ensure correct installation of seat belt.
(2) Check the metal component of the seat belt for damage.
(3) If the vehicle has been vibrated during the accident, pull out the
seat belt from the retractor, observe by eye and touch the seat
belt with hand to ensure that there is no scratch (load limit retractor
does not operate).
zReplace the seat belt if it is not as specified in the technical specification.Seat BeltPullAnchorNickanchorage
345(XI) Cpillar inside trim and rear door sillC pillar inside trim and rear door sill diagram:
C pillar inside trim& rear door sill diagramdiagram
1.Right C Pillar Upper Inside Trim 2.Left C Pillar Upper Inside Trim 3. Right C Pillar Upper Inside
Trim Sound Insulator 4. Left Sound Insulator 5. Right C Pillar Lower Inside Trim 6. Left C Pillar
Lower Inside Trim 7. Right Rear Door Sill 8. Left Rear Door Sill9. E-Clip10. Cross Pan
Head Self-tapping Screw 11. D-Clip
1. Removal
1Remove the installed door sill and C pillar lower inside trim tapping screw and E-clip with a cross
screwdriver;
2Remove C pillar upper inside trim with a opener ;
3Remove C pillar lower inside trim with a opener
2.Installation
1 Clip C pillar inside trim and rear door sill onto the corresponding position in order;
2Tap C pillar upper inside trim and C pillar lower inside trim lightly with a rubber hammer to ensure D-clip
clipped in the vehicle inner panel;
3Fix the rear door sill onto the vehicle body with a tapping screw.112 110843
57
96
373II. Repair of Body Outer Plate1. Types Of Outer Plate Damage
1 11 1
1Break or crackle
The body always vibrates as the vehicle runs; and it bears an alternating load. When the vehicle suddenly
accelerates, sharply turns and emergently brakes, the body will be affected by inertia force. When the
vehicle runs on a rough road, the body will get bent and deformed by torsion.
If the vehicle experiences this kind of outside force in a long term, the outer plate of the body will get
broken and cracked on the parts that stress concentrates and the structure is weak.
It is easy for the stress to concentrate at the turning, edging and narrow places of the body outer plate, for
example, it is easy for the 4 corners of the slide door sash to get broken and cracked.
2 22 2
2 Corrosion
The corrosion of the body outer plate is mostly caused by mud accumulated on the surface of the metal,
which results in rust. Only in some special situations, it is caused by contacting chemical materials, which
belongs to chemical corrosion. When the metal outer plate corrodes, the rust is generated on the outer
plate, and then peels off layer by layer, so that holes appear and become bigger and bigger. Rust is easily
generated on the outer plate of the skirt, drip channel, and at the joints of doors and sashes, and at the
interlayer formed by outer plate and frame jointing places.
3 33 3
3Recess
Recess is a kind of structural damage, caused by crash or squeezing on the outer plate of the body. As to
slight recess, the metal dose not extend. It belongs to plastic deformation. When it is seriously impacted
and squeezed, the metal outer plate will be torn. For the vehicles running on city, side wall outter plates
being crashed and scratched is common.
4 44 4
4Bending and torsion
Beading and torsion deformation belongs to mechanic damage. Many causes result in this kind of situation,
such as body being crashed or squeezed, an alternating load in vibrating as the vehicle runs, sudden
acceleration, emergent brake, sharp turn and running through a bad pavement, etc. Those can all result in
bending and torsion deformation on body outer plate.
Slight deformation should be confirmed by inspection. For serious bending and torsion deformation, they
can be easily found by appearance. The deformation information can be usually defined according to the
clearance between door frame and their relative position changes.
5 55 5
5Breakup Welding
Outer plate being breakup welding is caused by bad welding between metal plates.
375At the beginning of knocking it, make your force slightly greater. In the finishing period of repair, make
your force softer and try your best to reduce the beating times. Make sure not to knock one point for too
many times to avoid extending on partial area of the metal plate, which may make the repair complex.
As to the concave with a comparatively big radian, a backing plate whose area should be comparatively
big can be put under the center of the concave. Directly push up the depressed plate by a propping-up
tool. Sometimes, the concave place can be heated to dark red to reduce the pushing force. A slight rise is
recommended when pushing up. (Figure 5-20)
Heat-shrinkable method:
After the concave area is pushed up, if the plate is greatly stretched and its area is too big to repair, the
heat-shrinkable method can be adopted.
Use oxygen-acetylene flame to heat to cherry red. The area of heating depends to its extension degree.
The heating area should be bigger (Diameter approx. 20-30mm), when it is seriously extended or the area
is big. If it is slightly extended or the area is small, the heating area should be smaller (Diameter approx.
10-15mm). Quickly knock the heated points with a wooden hammer while they are hot. A backing block
is recommended to push it up. After it cools down, use an iron hammer to gently knock for smoothness.
The shrinkage order is from the highest point gradually to the center and then to the edge. Heat and then
flatten the extended area repeatedly, till the plate is completely flat. If the protrusion is very high, first
compress the whole protrusion to its half. After it cools down, heat the former heating point to remove the
rest half of the protrusion.
When the method is applied, it must be specially noted that you'd better not use the heat-shrinkage
method to avoid side effects. Especially for thin plates, prevent them from being melted through hole..
When the outer plate is lightly crashed and the depressed area belongs to elastic deformation, you may
press its inside to recover to its former shape.
Some depressed area can be repair by prying which is a repair method without disassembling parts. YouIllustration 5-18 Panel Flattening (A)
A Concave Point B Protrusion Point C Knocking PointIllustration 5-19 Panel Flattening (B)
1 Hammer 2 Panel Parts 3 Backing BlockFigure 5-20 Heat and flatten the protrusion
1 heating point