2007 NISSAN TIIDA radiator mount

EM-90
< REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION >[HR16DE]
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
 If items or work required are not covered by the engine section, follow the procedures in the applica-
ble sections.
 Always use the support point specified for lifting.
 Use either 2-pole lift type or separate type lift as best you can. If board-on type is used for unavoid-
able reasons, support at the rear axle jacking point with a transmission jack or similar tool before
starting work, in preparation for the backward shift of center of gravity.
 For supporting points for lifting and jacking point at rear axle, refer to GI-48, "
Garage Jack and
Safety Stand and 2-Pole Lift".
REMOVAL
Outline
Remove the engine and the transaxle assembly from the vehicle downward. Separate the engine and the tran-
saxle.
Preparation
1. Remove the hood assembly. Refer to DLK-214, "Removal and Installation".
2. Remove the cowl top cover and cowl top extension assembly. Refer to EXT-20, "
Removal and Installa-
tion".
3. Release fuel pressure. Refer to EC-377, "
Inspection" (EURO-OBD), EC-681, "Inspection" (WITHOUT
EURO-OBD).
4. Drain engine coolant from radiator. Refer to CO-11, "
Changing Engine Coolant".
CAUTION:
 Perform this step when the engine is cold.
 Never spill engine coolant on drive belt.
5. Drain the transmission fluid. Refer to TM-628, "
Draining" (M/T models), TM-171, "Changing A/T Fluid" (A/
T models).
6. Remove the following parts.
 Engine undercover
 Front road wheels and tires: Refer to WT-6, "
Rotation".
 Front fender protector (RH and LH): Refer to EXT-22, "
Removal and Installation".
 Battery and battery tray: Refer to PG-6, "
Removal and Installation".
 Drive belt: Refer to EM-16, "
Removal and Installation".
 Air duct and air cleaner case assembly: Refer to EM-27, "
Exploded View".
 Radiator hose (upper and lower): Refer to CO-16, "
Component".
 Disconnect cooling fan controller wiring harness.
 Remove coolant reservoir tank.
 Remove fan shroud and cooling fan assembly. Refer to CO-16, "
Component".
Engine Room LH
1. Disconnect all connections of engine harness around the engine mounting insulator (LH), and then tem-
porarily secure the engine harness into the engine side.
CAUTION:
Protect connectors using a resin bag against foreign materials.
2. Remove ground cable at transaxle side.
3. Disconnect fuel feed hose at engine side. Refer to EM-35, "
Exploded View".
4. Disconnect EVAP purge hose and brake booster vacuum hose.
5. Disconnect heater hoses, and install plugs them to prevent engine coolant from draining. Refer to CO-24,
"Exploded View".
6. Disconnect control linkage from transaxle. Refer to TM-189, "
Exploded View" (A/T), TM-630, "Exploded
View" (M/T).
7. Disconnect the clutch tube at transmission side. Refer to CL-12, "
Removal and Installation".
Engine Room RH
1. Remove ground cable between front cover and vehicle.
2. Remove generator and generator bracket; Refer to CHG-15, "
Removal and Installation".
3. Remove A/C compressor with piping connected from the engine. Temporarily secure it on the vehicle side
with a rope to avoid putting load on it. (with A/C models) Refer to HA-34, "
Removal and Installation of
Compressor - HR16DE".

EM-208
< REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION >[MR18DE]
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
 Always use the support point specified for lifting.
 Use either 2-pole lift type or separate type lift as best you can. If board-on type is used for unavoid-
able reasons, support at the rear axle jacking point with a transmission jack or similar tool before
starting work, in preparation for the backward shift of center of gravity.
 For supporting points for lifting and jacking point at rear axle, refer to GI-48, "
Garage Jack and
Safety Stand and 2-Pole Lift".
REMOVAL
Remove the engine and the transaxle assembly from the vehicle downward. Separate the engine and the tran-
saxle.
1. Remove engine undercover
2. Drain engine coolant from radiator. Refer to CO-35, "
Changing Engine Coolant".
CAUTION:
 Perform this step when the engine is cold.
 Do not spill engine coolant on drive belt.
3. Remove front fender protector (RH and LH); Refer to EXT-22, "
Removal and Installation".
4. Remove exhaust front tube; Refer to EX-10, "
Component".
5. Remove drive shafts (LH and RH) from steering knuckle. Refer to FA X - 7 , "
Removal and Installation".
6. Remove transaxle joint bolts which pierce at oil pan (upper) lower rear side. Refer to EM-207, "
Compo-
nent".
7. Remove rear torque rod (1).
8. Remove hood assembly. Refer to DLK-214, "
Removal and Installation".
9. Remove cowl top cover and cowl top extension assembly. Refer to EXT-20, "
Removal and Installation".
10. Release fuel pressure. Refer to EC-1035, "
Inspection".
11. Remove battery and battery tray; Refer to PG-6, "
Removal and Installation".
12. Remove drive belt; Refer to EM-142, "
Component".
13. Remove air duct and air cleaner case assembly; Refer to EM-154
.
14. Remove cooling fan assembly.
15. Remove radiator hose (upper and lower). Refer to CO-40, "
Component".
16. Disconnect all connections of engine harness around the engine mounting insulator (LH), and then tem-
porarily secure the engine harness into the engine side.
CAUTION:
Protect connectors using a resin bag to protect against foreign materials during the operation.
17. Disconnect fuel feed hose at engine side. Refer to EM-162, "
Component".
18. Disconnect heater hoses, and install plugs them to prevent engine coolant from draining. Refer to CO-47,
"Component".
19. Disconnect control cable from transaxle. Refer to TM-674, "
Exploded View".
20. Remove ground cable at transaxle side.
21. Remove ground cable between front cover and vehicle.
22. Remove generator. Refer to CHG-29, "
Removal and Installation".
23. Remove A/C compressor with piping connected from the engine. Temporarily secure it on the vehicle side
with a rope to avoid putting load on it. Refer to HA-32, "
Removal and Installation of Compressor -
MR18DE".
LBIA0460E

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
EXT-7
< ON-VEHICLE MAINTENANCE >
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4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sun visor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the console panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the console at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lens loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component installed on the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
GW-5
< SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS >
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2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sun visor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the console panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the console at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lense loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

INT-10
< PREPARATION >
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sun visor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the console panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the console at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lens loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component installed on the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
IP-7
< SERVICE INFORMATION >
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Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sun visor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the console panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the console at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lens loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

MA-52
< ON-VEHICLE MAINTENANCE >
CHASSIS AND BODY MAINTENANCE
d. Remove A/T fluid level gauge and wipe clean with lint-free cloth.
CAUTION:
When wiping the A/T fluid level gauge, always use lint-free
cloth.
e. Re-insert A/T fluid level gauge into A/T fluid charging pipe as far
as it will go.
CAUTION:
Firmly fix the A/T fluid level gauge to the A/T fluid charging
pipe using the stopper attached.
f. Remove A/T fluid level gauge and note reading. If reading is at
low side of range, add A/T fluid to the A/T fluid charging pipe.
CAUTION:
Do not overfill.
4. Drive vehicle for approximately 5 minutes.
5. Re-check A/T fluid level at A/T fluid temperatures of 50 to 80°C (122 to 176°F) using “HOT” range on A/T
fluid level gauge.
CAUTION:
 When wiping the A/T fluid level gauge, always use lint-free cloth.
 Firmly fix the A/T fluid level gauge to the A/T fluid charging pipe using the stopper attached.
6. Check A/T fluid condition and make any necessary repairs. Refer to TM-171, "
Checking A/T Fluid" (TYPE
1) or TM-473, "
Checking A/T Fluid" (TYPE 2). If the A/T fluid contains frictional material (clutches, bands,
etc.), or if the A/T is repaired, overhauled, or replaced, inspect and clean the A/T fluid cooler mounted in
the radiator. Refer to TM-172, "
A/T Fluid Cooler Cleaning" (TYPE 1) or TM-474, "A/T Fluid Cooler Clean-
ing" (TYPE 2).
7. Install the removed A/T fluid level gauge into the A/T fluid charging pipe.
CAUTION:
Firmly fix the A/T fluid level gauge to the A/T fluid charging pipe using the stopper attached.
Changing A/T Fluid: RE4F03BINFOID:0000000001730902
1. Warm up A/T fluid.
2. Stop engine.
3. Drain A/T fluid by removing the drain plug. Reinstall the drain plug to the specified torque.
CAUTION:
Do not reuse drain plug gasket.
4. Refill the transaxle with new specified A/T fluid through the A/T fluid charging pipe. Always refill the tran-
saxle with the same volume of A/T fluid that was drained out.
5. Run engine at idle speed for 5 minutes.
6. Check A/T fluid level and condition. Refer to TM-171, "
Checking A/T Fluid" (TYPE 1) or TM-473, "Check-
ing A/T Fluid" (TYPE 2).
Checking A/T Fluid: RSF91RINFOID:0000000001730929
Changing A/T Fluid: RS9F94RINFOID:0000000001730930
DRAINING
1. Start engine and let it run to warm up transaxle.
SMA051D
Drain plug: Refer to TM-210, "Exploded View"
(TYPE 1) or TM-503, "
Exploded
View" (TYPE 2).
Fluid grade and capacity: Refer to MA-19, "
Fluids and Lubricants" .

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
RF-27
< SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS >
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2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sun visor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the console panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the console at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lens loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component installed on the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.