2007 CHEVROLET TRAIL BLAZER steering

Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your
vehicle downstream and you and your
passengers could drown. If it is only
shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you
could lose traction and roll the vehicle
over. Do not drive through rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive
through it. If it is deep enough to cover the
wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try
it — you probably will not get through. Also, water
that deep can damage the axle and other
vehicle parts.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it.
At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition
system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get the tailpipe under water. And,
as long as the tailpipe is under water, you
will never be able to start the engine. When you
go through water, remember that when the brakes
get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 340
for more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake
linings cleaned and checked. These substances
can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the
body structure, steering, suspension, wheels,
tires, and exhaust system for damage. Also, check
the fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service
due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance
Schedule for additional information.
338

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on.
But wet ice can be even more trouble because it
may offer the least traction of all. You can get
wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and
freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving
on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed,
blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution.Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile
traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels
will spin and polish the surface under the tires
even more.
The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop
on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS,
you will want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. SeeAnti-Lock Brake
System (ABS) on page 311.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
ne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may
appear in shaded areas where the sun cannot
reach, such as around clumps of trees, behind
buildings, or under bridges. Sometimes the
surface of a curve or an overpass may remain
icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you
see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before
you are on it. Try not to brake while you are
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
351

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want
to spin the wheels too fast. The method known as
rocking can help you get out when you are
stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. And, the transmission or
other parts of the vehicle can overheat.
That could cause an engine compartment
re or other damage. When you are stuck,
spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.Notice:Spinning the wheels can destroy parts
of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you
spin the wheels too fast while shifting
the transmission back and forth, you can
destroy the transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 472.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around the front wheels.
If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into
Four-Wheel High. Turn the StabiliTrak
®System off.
SeeStabiliTrak®System on page 313. Then shift
back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as
possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you
shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions,
you will cause a rocking motion that may free your
vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a
few tries, it may need to be towed out. Or, you can
use the recovery hooks if your vehicle has them. If
your vehicle does need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 362.
354

CAUTION: (Continued)
Do not use the climate control setting
for maximum air because it only
recirculates the air inside your vehicle.
SeeDual Climate Control System on
page 187orDual Automatic Climate
Control System on page 190.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connection,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand
to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you
check your electrical connection at the same time.During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
377

Service........................................................ 386
Accessories and Modications................... 386
California Proposition 65 Warning.............. 386
Doing Your Own Service Work.................. 387
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle.......................................... 387
Fuel............................................................. 388
Gasoline Octane........................................ 388
Gasoline Specications.............................. 389
California Fuel........................................... 389
Additives................................................... 389
Fuels in Foreign Countries........................ 390
Filling the Tank......................................... 391
Filling a Portable Fuel Container............... 393
Checking Things Under the Hood.............. 394
Hood Release........................................... 394
Engine Compartment Overview.................. 396
Engine Oil................................................. 402
Engine Oil Life System.............................. 408
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter............................ 410Automatic Transmission Fluid.................... 411
Engine Coolant.......................................... 414
Radiator Pressure Cap.............................. 418
Engine Overheating................................... 418
Cooling System......................................... 420
Engine Fan Noise..................................... 425
Power Steering Fluid................................. 426
Windshield Washer Fluid........................... 427
Brakes...................................................... 428
Battery...................................................... 431
Jump Starting............................................ 432
All-Wheel Drive........................................... 438
Rear Axle.................................................... 438
Four-Wheel Drive........................................ 440
Front Axle................................................... 440
Bulb Replacement....................................... 442
Halogen Bulbs........................................... 442
Taillamps and Turn Signal Lamps............. 442
License Plate Lamp................................... 444
Replacement Bulbs................................... 444
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
383

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 410.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling
System on page 420.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 427.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 426.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of
View). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under
Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 411.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 402.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure
Cap on page 418.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 402.
I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 432.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 428.
K. Battery. SeeBattery on page 431.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 503.
397

A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling
System on page 420.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 410.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 427.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 402.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick.
See “Checking the Fluid Level” under
Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 411.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 402.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure
Cap on page 418.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 432.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 426.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 428.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 503.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 431.
399

A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling
System on page 420.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 410.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 427.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick (Out of View). See
“Checking Engine Oil” underEngine Oil on
page 402.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick.
See “Checking the Fluid Level” under
Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 411.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap (Under Engine Cover).
See “When to Add Engine Oil” underEngine
Oil on page 402.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure
Cap on page 418.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 432.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 426.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 428.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 503.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 431.
401