Freeway Driving
Mile for mile, freeways — also called thruways, parkways,
expressways, turnpikes, or superhighways — are the
safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up
with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed
most of the other drivers are driving. Too-fast or too-slow
driving breaks a smooth traffic ow. Treat the left lane on
a freeway as a passing lane.At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the
freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you
drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check
traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend
with the ow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the
prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your
mirrors, and glance over your shoulder as often as
necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic ow.
Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the
posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower. Stay in
the right lane unless you want to pass.
Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use
your turn signal.
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your
shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in
your blind spot.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you
allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move
slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the
proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit,
do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up.
Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not
to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at
higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going
slower than you actually are.
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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-56.Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply
of windshield washer uid, a rag, some winter outer
clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight, a red cloth, and
re ective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving
under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a
piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help
provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items
in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will
have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very
careful.
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{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base
of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
your exhaust pipe. And check around again
from time to time to be sure snow does not
collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with
your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all
the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and
repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from
the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel
as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out
of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to spin
your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking can
help you get out when you are stuck, but you must use
caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little
as possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts
of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For more information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-72.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear
the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and
forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the
accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By
slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free
your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few tries,
you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be
towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-39.
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Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service
if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed.
SeeRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-4.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing”
(towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with any of its
wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be towed, see
“Towing Your Vehicle” earlier in this section.
Notice:Towing an all-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, or even with only two
of its wheels on the ground, will damage drivetrain
components. Do not tow an all-wheel-drive vehicle
if any of its wheels will be on the ground.
Electronically Controlled Air
Suspension System
Your vehicle is equipped with an electronically controlled
air suspension system that automatically keeps your
vehicle level as you load and unload. The system
includes a compressor, two height sensors, and
two air springs supporting the rear axle.
The system also has an internal clock to prevent
overheating if the in ator is used for prolonged periods.
If the system overheats, all leveling function stops until
the system cools down. During this time, the indicator
light on the air in ator switch will be ashing.
The ignition has to be on for the system to in ate, in
order to raise the vehicle to the standard ride height after
loading. The system can lower the vehicle to the standard
ride height after unloading with the ignition on and also for
up to 30 minutes after the ignition has been turned off.
You may hear the compressor operating when you load
your vehicle, and periodically as the system adjusts the
vehicle to the standard ride height.
Load leveling will not function normally with the in ator
hose attached to the in ator outlet. Remove the in ator
hose from the outlet during loading and unloading.
If the vehicle is parked for an extended period of time,
some bleed down of the suspension is normal. Upon
starting the vehicle, proper height will be achieved.
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Overload Protection
The air suspension system is equipped with overload
protection. Overload protection is designed to protect the
air suspension system, and it is an indicator to the driver
that the vehicle is overloaded. When the overload
protection mode is on, it will not allow damage to the air
compressor. However, do not overload the vehicle. See
Loading Your Vehicle on page 4-33.
If the suspension remains at a low height, the rear axle
load has exceeded GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating).
When the overload protection mode is activated, the
compressor operates for about 30 seconds to one minute
without raising the vehicle depending on the amount
of overload. This will continue each time the ignition
is turned on until the rear axle load is reduced
below GAWR.
Indicator Light
The indicator light on the in ator switch in the rear
passenger compartment also serves as an indicator
for internal system error. If the indicator light is ashing
without the load leveling function or the in ator being
active, turn off the ignition. The next day turn on the
ignition and check the indicator light. The vehicle can
be driven with the light ashing, but if it is you should
have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle is equipped with a seven-wire trailer
towing harness. This harness has a seven-pin universal
heavy-duty trailer connector (if equipped with the
trailering package) that is attached to a bracket on the
hitch platform. If your vehicle is not equipped with the
heavy-duty trailer connector, you can purchase one
from your Saab dealer.
The seven-wire harness contains the following trailer
circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Running Lamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Dark Blue: Electric Brakes
Red: Battery Feed (The chassis wiring ring terminal
must be fastened to a stud on the underhood
electrical center before the trailer feed will become
active.)
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way round pin connector, an adapter connector is
available from your dealer.
Your vehicle is also equipped with wiring for an electric
trailer brake controller. These wires are located inside the
vehicle on the driver’s side under the instrument panel.
These wires should be connected to an electric trailer
brake controller by your dealer or a quali ed service
center.
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