2006 CHEVROLET SILVERADO tow

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
Notice:Pulling a fth-wheel trailer with a vehicle
that is equipped with the SS trim package could
damage the vehicle. Do not pull a fth-wheel trailer
with a vehicle equipped with the SS trim package.
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can
tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower
gear selection if the transmission shifts too often,
such as under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
If you have a manual transmission and you are
towing a trailer, it’s better not to use the highest
gear. SeeTow/Haul Mode Light on page 3-49.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The weight on your vehicle’s tires
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Tow/Haul Mode
Tow/Haul is a feature on automatic transmission
equipped vehicles that assists when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load. SeeTow/Haul Mode on
page 2-30for more information.
Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when the
vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least 75% of
the vehicle’s Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR).
See “Weight of the Trailer” later in the section.
Tow/Haul is most useful under the following driving
conditions:
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy
load through rolling terrain.
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy
load in stop and go traffic.
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy
load in busy parking lots where improved low
speed control of the vehicle is desired.
Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly loaded
or with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However,
there is no benet to the selection of Tow/Haul when
the vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded
may result in unpleasant engine and transmission
driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy.
Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.
See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this
section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
Above the 5,000 lbs (2 268 kg) trailer rating, the
handling/trailering suspension is required on two-wheel
drive1500 series models and the handling/trailering
or off-road suspension is required on four-wheel drive
1500 series models.
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Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will
also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And
if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load
to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying
that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-48
for more information about your vehicle’s maximum
load capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a
maximum of 600 lbs (272 kg) for the 1500 or 2500 series,
and up to a maximum of 750 lbs (340 kg) for the 2500 HD
or 3500 series with a weight carrying hitch. The trailer
tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to 15 percent
of the total loaded trailer weight, up to a maximum of
1,000 lbs (453 kg) for the 1500 series and up to a
maximum of 1,500 lbs (680 kg) for the 2500, 2500 HD
or 3500 series with a weight distributing hitch.
Fifth wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be
15 to 25 percent of the trailer weight up to the maximum
amount specied in the trailering chart for your vehicle.
See “Weight of the Trailer”, and “Fifth-Wheel and
Gooseneck Trailering” in this section.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This
will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on
the rear axle.
After you have loaded the trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue separately, to see if the weights
are proper. If they are not, you may be able to get them
right by moving some items around in the trailer.
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The effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual
weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you
with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent
of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not
exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The
only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these
ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on
the Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s
door or see Loading Your Vehicle for more information.
Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for
your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight of the
trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch,
make sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before
you apply the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
A:Body to Ground Distance
B:Front of Vehicle
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must
be adjusted so the distance (A) remains the same both
before and after coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.
If you use a step-bumper hitch, the bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure there is ample
room when turning to avoid contact between the
trailer and the bumper.
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If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to use a
properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer
will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a
hitch dealer about sway controls.
Fifth Wheel and Gooseneck Trailering
Notice:Pulling a fth-wheel trailer with a vehicle
that is equipped with the SS trim package could
damage the vehicle. Do not pull a fth-wheel trailer
with a vehicle equipped with the SS trim package.
Fifth wheel and gooseneck trailers can be used with
many pickup models. These trailers place a larger
percentage of the weight (kingpin weight) on the tow
vehicle than conventional trailers. Make sure this weight
does not cause the vehicle to exceed GAWR or GVWR.
Fifth wheel or gooseneck kingpin weight should be
15 to 25 percent of the trailer weight up to the maximum
amount specied in the trailering chart for your vehicle.
See “Weight of the Trailer” in this section for more
information.
The hitch should be located in the pickup bed so that
it’s centerline is over or slightly in front of the rear
axle. Take care that it is not so far forward that it will
contact the back of the cab in sharp turns.This is especially important for short box pickups.
Trailer pin box extensions and sliding fth wheel hitch
assemblies can help this condition. There should
be at least six inches of clearance between the top of
the pickup box and the bottom of the trailer shelf
that extends over the box.
Make sure the hitch is attached to the tow vehicle frame
rails. Do not use the pickup box for support.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be
provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. If you are towing a trailer up to 5,000 lbs
(2 271 kg) with a factory-installed step bumper, you
may attach the safety chains to the attaching points on
the bumper. If you are towing a trailer up to your
vehicle’s trailer rating limit you may attach the safety
chains to the attaching point on the hitch platform. If you
are towing with an aftermarket hitch follow the trailer
or hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so
you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to
drag on the ground.
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Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes — and they must
be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the uid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and nally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You cannot see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 2-54. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
the climate control setting for maximum air
because it only recirculates the air inside
your vehicle. SeeClimate Control System
on page 3-20.
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Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods
of sunshine, the oor of the truck bed may become
very warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed
that might be affected by high ambient temperatures.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission
to lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. SeeTow/Haul Mode
Light on page 3-49.If you have a 5-speed manual transmission and you are
towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear.
Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need
to, a lower gear).
If you have a 6-speed manual transmission and you are
towing a trailer, it’s better not to use SIXTH (6) gear.
Drive in FIFTH (5) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant at or near
sea level will boil at a lower temperature than at higher
altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately
after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your
vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating.
To avoid this, let the engine run while parked, preferably
on level ground, with the automatic transmission in
PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the engine
off. For manual transmissions, let the engine run
while parked, preferably on level ground, with the
transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied,
for a few minutes before turning the engine off.
If you do get the overheat warning, seeEngine
Overheating on page 5-37.
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