2005 GMC JIMMY lock

Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is
one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend
or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very
small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant
incline with only a small change in elevation where
you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill,
the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but
you may not see this because the crest of the hill
is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs.
Here are some other things to consider as you
approach a hill.
Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get
sharply steeper in places?
Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?
Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
will not have to make turning maneuvers?
Are there obstructions on the hill that can block
your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?
What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and
walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way
to nd out.
Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because
they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you
need to take some special steps.
Use a low gear and get a rm grip on the
steering wheel.
Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
your speed. Do not use more power than you
need, because you do not want your wheels to start
spinning or sliding.
Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If
the path twists and turns, you might want to nd
another route.
{CAUTION:
Turning or driving across steep hills can be
dangerous. You could lose traction, slide
sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. When driving up
hills, always try to go straight up.
4-19

As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position.
This way, you will be able to tell if your wheels are
straight and maneuver as you back down. It is
best that you back down the hill with your wheels
straight rather than in the left or right direction.
Turning the wheel too far to the left or right
will increase the possibility of a rollover.
Here are some things youmust notdo if you stall, or
are about to stall, when going up a hill.
Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch, if you have a
manual transmission) to rev-up the engine and
regain forward momentum. This will not work. Your
vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you
could go out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle.
Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back straight down.
Never attempt to turn around if you are about to
stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep
enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to
cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you
cannot make it up the hill, you must back straight
down the hill.
Q:Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the hill
and decide I just cannot do it. What should I do?
A:Set the parking brake, put your transmission in
PARK (P) (or the manual transmission in
FIRST (1)) and turn off the engine. Leave the
vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill
side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would
take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL when you leave the vehicle.
Leave it in some gear.
{CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the
transmission is in PARK (P) (or, if you have the
manual transmission, even if you are in gear).
This is because the NEUTRAL position on the
transfer case overrides the transmission. You or
someone else could be injured. If you are going
to leave your vehicle, set the parking brake and
shift the transmission to PARK (P) (or, put your
manual transmission in FIRST (1)). But do not
shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the
transfer case in a drive gear.
4-21

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it may offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you
will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on
dry pavement. SeeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS)
on page 4-8.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such
as around clumps of trees, behind buildings,
or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve
or an overpass may remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of
ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake while you are actually on the ice, and
avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
4-39

{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.
4-41

Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants,
cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels
on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly
carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the
Certication/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either
the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of your vehicle.
Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information label is
attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With the driver’s
door open, you will nd the label attached below
the door lock post (striker). The tire and loading
information label shows the number of occupant seating
positions (A), and the maximum vehicle capacity
weight (B) in kilograms and pounds.Label Example
4-44

{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is rmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
4. With the engine running, shift the transfer case to
NEUTRAL (N). See “Automatic Transfer Case”
underFour-Wheel Drive on page 5-44for more
information on how to shift the transfer case
to NEUTRAL.5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
Notice:If you exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while
towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never
exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
Notice:Do not exceed the posted speed limit
when towing your vehicle. If you do, your vehicle
could be badly damaged.
6. Turn the ignition to OFF. To prevent your battery
from draining while towing, remove the RDO BATT
and CLSTR fuses from the instrument panel
fuse block. Be sure to replace the fuse when you
reach your destination. SeeInstrument Panel
Fuse Block on page 5-91.
4-51

Dolly Towing
(Vehicles with Automatic Transfer Case)
If your vehicle has an automatic transfer case, your
vehicle can be dolly towed.
1. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach
and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and
then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle.
2. Firmly set the parking brake.
3. Put an automatic or a manual transmission in
NEUTRAL (N).
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for an
automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in
gear, for a manual transmission. You or others
could be injured. Make sure the parking brake is
rmly set before you shift the transfer case
to NEUTRAL.4. Shift the transfer case to 2HI. SeeFour-Wheel
Drive on page 2-30for how to shift the
transfer case.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing vehicle.
Notice:Do not exceed the posted speed limit when
towing your vehicle. If you do, your vehicle could
be badly damaged.
Notice:If you tow your vehicle from the front for
more than 50 miles (80 km) on a dolly, you could
damage it. Never dolly tow your vehicle from
the front more than 50 miles (80 km).
6. Turn the ignition to OFF. To prevent your battery
from draining while towing, remove the RDO BATT
and CLSTR fuses from the instrument panel fuse
block. Be sure to replace the fuse when you reach
your destination SeeInstrument Panel Fuse Block on
page 5-91.
4-53

Rear Towing (Rear Wheels off the Ground)
If your vehicle has an electronic transfer case, you can
dolly tow your vehicle from the rear only if the rear wheels
are on the dolly. Use the following steps to dolly tow
your vehicle:
1. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach
and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and
then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle.
2. Firmly set the parking brake.
3. Put the automatic or manual transmission in
NEUTRAL (N).
4. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing vehicle.{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is rmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
Notice:Do not exceed the posted speed limit when
towing your vehicle. If you do, your vehicle could
be badly damaged.
5. Turn the ignition to OFF. To prevent your battery
from draining while towing, remove the RDO BATT
and CLSTR fuses from the instrument panel
fuse block. Be sure to replace the fuse when you
reach your destination. SeeInstrument Panel
Fuse Block on page 5-91.
4-54