2004 GMC CANYON lock

Driving on Off-Road Hills
Off-road driving often takes you up, down or across a
hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment
and an understanding of what your vehicle can and
can not do. There are some hills that simply can not be
driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle.
If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive
down them, you can not control your speed.
If you drive across them, you will roll over.
You could be seriously injured or killed. If you
have any doubt about the steepness, do not
drive the hill.
Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is
one of those hills that is just too steep to climb,
descend or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge.
On a very small hill, for example, there may be a
smooth, constant incline with only a small change in
elevation where you can easily see all the way to
the top. On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as
you near the top, but you may not see this because the
crest of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs.
Here are some other things to consider as you
approach a hill.
Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get
sharply steeper in places?
Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?
Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
will not have to make turning maneuvers?
Are there obstructions on the hill that can block
your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?
What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and
walk the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way
to nd out.
Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs and exposed rocks because
they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
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Q:What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or is about
to stall, and I can not make it up the hill?
A:If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do.
First, here is what youshoulddo:
Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep it
from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking brake.
If your engine is still running, shift the transmission to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and slowly
back down the hill in REVERSE (R).
If your engine has stopped running, you will need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) (or shift to neutral if your vehicle has a
manual transmission) and restart the engine. Then,
shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake,
and slowly back down the hill as straight as possible
in REVERSE (R).
As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position.
This way, you will be able to tell if your wheels are
straight and maneuver as you back down. It is best
that you back down the hill with your wheels straight
rather than in the left or right direction. Turning the
wheel too far to the left or right will increase the
possibility of a rollover.Here are some things youmust notdo if you stall, or
are about to stall, when going up a hill.
Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch, if you have a
manual transmission) to “rev-up” the engine and
regain forward momentum. This will not work.
Your vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and
you could go out of control.
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle.
Then apply the parking brake. Shift to REVERSE (R),
release the parking brake, and slowly back straight
down.
Never attempt to turn around if you are about to stall
when going up a hill. If the hill is steep enough to stall
your vehicle, it is steep enough to cause you to roll
over if you turn around. If you can not make it up the
hill, you must back straight down the hill.
Q:Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the
hill and decide I just can not do it. What should
I do?
A:Set the parking brake, put your transmission
in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission in
FIRST (1)) and turn off the engine. Leave the
vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill
side and stay clear of the path the vehicle would
take if it rolled downhill.
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What is the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you will want to begin stopping sooner than you would
on dry pavement. SeeBraking on page 4-6.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can not reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake
before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
4-41

{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You can not see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly.
This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps
the battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery
to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on
with your headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can.
To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and
do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or
so until help comes.
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5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.
SeeFour-Wheel Drive on page 2-26for
more information.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
Notice:If you exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while towing
your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never exceed
55 mph (90 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK. To prevent your
battery from draining while towing, remove the
RDO BATT and CLSTR fuses from the instrument
panel fuse block. Be sure to replace the fuse
when you reach your destination. SeeFuses and
Circuit Breakers on page 5-104for more information.
After towing see “Shifting out of NEUTRAL” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26.Dolly Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Two-wheel drive vehicles should not be towed with
the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
4-49

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the Ground)
Use the following steps to dolly tow your vehicle from
the front:
1. Drive the vehicle up onto the dolly.
2. Firmly set the parking brake. SeeParking Brake on
page 2-29for more information.
3. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to
attach and secure the vehicle being towed to
the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow
vehicle.
4. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a
manual transmission in FIRST (1).
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is rmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26for instructions.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
Notice:If you exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while
towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never
exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK. To prevent your
battery from draining while towing, remove the
RDO BATT and CLSTR fuses from the instrument
panel fuse block. Be sure to replace the fuse
when you reach your destination SeeFuses and
Circuit Breakers on page 5-104for more information.
4-50

6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
Notice:If you exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while
towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never
exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK. To prevent your
battery from draining while towing, remove the
RDO BATT and CLSTR fuses from the instrument
panel fuse block. Be sure to replace the fuse
when you reach your destination SeeFuses and
Circuit Breakers on page 5-104for more information.
After towing see “Shifting out of NEUTRAL” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-26.Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants,
cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels
on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly
carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the
Certication/Tire label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can
break, and it can change the way your vehicle
handles. These could cause you to lose
control and crash. Also, overloading can
shorten the life of your vehicle.
4-52

The tethered fuel cap is located behind a hinged door
on the driver’s side of your vehicle.While refueling, hang the cap by the tether from the
hook on the fuel ller door.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left
(counterclockwise).
5-8