2004 CHEVROLET COLORADO Owners Manual

Vehicle Axle Ratio Maximum Trailer Weight GCWR**
4WD Regular Cab
Automatic Transmission,
2.8 L Engine3.73 3,100 lbs. (1 406 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
2.8 L Engine4.10 3,100 lbs. (1 406 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.42 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 856 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.73 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5 L Engine4.10 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg)
Manual Transmission,
2.8 L Engine3.73 2,100 lbs. (952 kg) 6,000 lbs. (2 722 kg)
Manual Transmission,
2.8 L Engine4.10 2,100 lbs. (952 kg) 6,000 lbs. (2 722 kg)
Manual Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.42 3,100 lbs. (1 406 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)
Manual Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.73 3,600 lbs. (1 632 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)
Manual Transmission,
3.5 L Engine4.10 3,500 lbs. (1 587 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)
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Vehicle Axle Ratio Maximum Trailer Weight GCWR**
4WD Extended Cab
Automatic Transmission,
2.8 L Engine3.73 2,900 lbs. (1 315 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
2.8 L Engine4.10 2,900 lbs. (1 315 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.42 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 856 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.73 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5 L Engine4.10 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg)
Manual Transmission,
2.8 L Engine4.10 1,900 lbs. (861 kg) 6,000 lbs (2 722 kg)
Manual Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.42 2,900 lbs. (1 315 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)
Manual Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.73 3,400 lbs. (1 542 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)
Manual Transmission,
3.5 L Engine4.10 3,300 lbs. (1 496 kg) 7,500 lbs. (3 402 kg)
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Vehicle Axle Ratio Maximum Trailer Weight GCWR**
4WD Crew Cab
Automatic Transmission,
2.8 L Engine3.73 2,800 lbs. (1 270 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
2.8 L Engine4.10 2,800 lbs. (1 270 kg) 7,000 lbs. (3 175 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.42 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) 8,500 lbs. (3 856 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5 L Engine3.73 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg)
Automatic Transmission,
3.5 L Engine4.10 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) 9,000 lbs. (4 082 kg)
Manual Transmission,
2.8 L Engine4.10 1,800 lbs. (816 kg) 6,000 lbs. (2 721 kg)
**The Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) is the
total allowable weight of the completely loaded vehicle
and trailer including any passengers, cargo, equipment
and conversions. The GCWR for your vehicle should
not be exceeded.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or
advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
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Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will
also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And
if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load
to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying
that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-50
for more information about your vehicle’s maximum
load capacity.
The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to
a maximum of 500 lbs (226 kg) with a weight
carrying hitch.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch extension
that will position the hitch ball closest to the vehicle. This
will help reduce the effect of trailer tongue weight on
the rear axle.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then
the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If
they aren’t you may be able to get them right simply by
moving some of the items around in the trailer.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on the
Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s door
above the door latch, or seeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 4-50. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit
for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
You can use your step bumper hitch for trailers up to
2,000 lbs (907 kg) total weight, and 200 lbs (90 kg)
tongue weight.
Notice:If you use a step-bumper hitch, your
bumper could be damaged in sharp turns. Make
sure you have ample room when turning to avoid
contact between the trailer and the bumper.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be
provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. For trailers up to 2,000 lbs. (907 kg) you
may attach the safety chains to the attaching points
on the bumper. For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or
hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you
can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brake–and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust
and maintain them properly.
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Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
uid tap at the port on the master cylinder that
sends uid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and nally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
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Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal asher.
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or
the manual transmission out of gear and the parking
brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the
engine off. If you do get the overheat warning,
seeEngine Overheating on page 5-28.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual transmission.
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from the
curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels into
the curb.2. Have someone place chocks under the
trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P), or
REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission. See
Parking Brake on page 2-31for more information.
5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear and not in
NEUTRAL. SeeFour-Wheel Drive on page 2-27for
more information.
6. Release the regular brakes.
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