2003 NISSAN TEANA roof rack

BL-10
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES

TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. Trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. Rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

EI-8
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES

TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. Trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. Rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

EM-56
[QR]
TIMING CHAIN

a. Loosen mounting bolts in reverse order as shown in the figure,
and remove RH engine mounting bracket.
b . U s e s e a l c u t t e r [ S S T: K V 1 0 1111 0 0 ] o r e q u i v a l e n t t o o l t o c u t l i q -
uid gasket for removing front cover.
CAUTION:
Be careful not to damage the mating surfaces.
c. Pull out downward front cover.
CAUTION:
Do not let A/C and power steering pipings interfere with
upper part of front cover.
14. Remove front oil seal from front cover using suitable tool.
CAUTION:
Be careful not to damage front cover.
15. Remove timing chain with the following procedure:
a. Push in chain tensioner plunger. Insert a stopper pin into hole on
chain tensioner body to secure chain tensioner plunger and
remove chain tensioner.
NOTE:
Use approximately 0.5 mm (0.02 in) dia. hard metal pin as a
stopper pin.
b. Remove timing chain.
CAUTION:
Do not rotate crankshaft or camshaft while timing chain is removed. It causes interference
between valve and piston.
16. Remove camshaft sprockets. Refer to EM-41, "
CAMSHAFT" .
17. Remove timing chain slack guide, timing chain tension guide and oil pump drive spacer.
18. Remove balancer unit timing chain tensioner with the following procedure:
a. Lift lever up, and release ratchet claw for return proof.
b. Push tensioner sleeve in, and hold it.
c. Matching the hole on lever with the one on body, insert a stopper
pin to secure tensioner sleeve.
NOTE:
Use approximately 1 mm (0.04 in) dia. hard metal pin as a stop-
per pin.
d. Remove balancer unit timing chain tensioner.
KBIA0083E
KBIA0048E
KBIA0121E

FUEL SYSTEM
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FUEL SYSTEMPFP:17503
Checking Fuel LinesBBS005AE
Inspect fuel lines, fuel filler cap and fuel tank for improper attach-
ment, leaks, cracks, damage, loose connections, chafing or deterio-
ration.
If necessary, repair or replace damaged parts.
General PrecautionsBBS005AF
WARNING:
When replacing fuel line parts, be sure to observe the following.

Put a “CAUTION: FLAMMABLE” sign in the workshop.

Be sure to work in a well ventilated area and furnish workshop with a CO2 fire extinguisher.

Do not smoke while servicing fuel system. Keep open flames and sparks away from the work area.

Put drained fuel in an explosion-proof container and put the lid on securely. Keep the container in
safe area.
CAUTION:

Use gasoline required by the regulations for octane number. Refer to GI-6, "Precautions for Fuel" .

Before removing fuel line parts, perform the following procedures:
–Release fuel pressure from the fuel lines. Refer to EC-49, "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE"
(QR20DE), or EC-392, "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE" (VQ23DE and VQ35DE).
–Disconnect the battery cable from negative terminal.

Always replace clamps with new ones.

Do not kink or twist tubes when they are being installed.

Perform work on level place.

Do not tighten hose clamps excessively to avoid damaging hoses.

After connecting fuel tube quick connectors, make sure
quick connectors are secure.
Ensure that connector and resin tube do not contact any
adjacent parts.

After installing tubes, make sure there is no fuel leakage at
connections in the following steps.
–Apply fuel pressure to fuel lines with turning ignition switch
“ON” (with engine stopped). Then check for fuel leaks at
connections.
–Start engine and rev it up and check for fuel leaks at con-
nections.

Use only a genuine NISSAN fuel filler cap as a replacement.
If an incorrect fuel filler cap is used, the “MIL” may come
on.

For servicing “Evaporative Emission System” parts, refer to
EC-27, "
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM" (QR20DE), or
EC-366, "
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM" (VQ23DE
and VQ35DE).
SMA803A
SBIA0504E

GW-8
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES

TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. Trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. Rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
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IP

TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. Trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. Rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
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TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. Trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. Rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

SUNROOF
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1. Glass lid 2. TORX bolt 3. Washer
4. Link assembly RH 5. Wire assembly RH 6. Rear sunroof bracket RH
PIIB1346E