2003 GMC YUKON DENALI radiator cap

If you have to add coolant more than four times a year,
have your dealer check your cooling system.
Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you don’t
have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim
to improve the system. These can be harmful.
Checking Coolant
The coolant surge tank is
located in the engine
compartment on the
passenger’s side of the
vehicle.
.
1 ~ ---lg the surge tanl- ,xessure cap when the
engine and radiator are hot can allow steam
and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. Never turn the surge tank pressure
cap
- even a little - when the engine and
radiator are hot.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL
COLD mark.
If the LOW COOLANT
LEVEL message comes on and
stays on, it means you’re low on engine coolant.
See “Low Coolant Level” under
DIC Warnings and
Messages on page
3-52.
See Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12 for
more information on location.
5-24

Cooling System
When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what
you’ll see: If the
coolant inside the coolant surge tank
is boiling,
don’t do anything else until
it cools down. The vehicle
should be parked on a level surface.
A. Coolant Surge Tank
B. Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap
C. Engine Fan
1
The coolant level should
be at or above the FULL
COLD mark. If
it isn’t,
you may have a leak at the
pressure cap or in the
radiator hoses, heater
hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else
in the cooling system.
5-28

Heater and rac.-:or hoses, and other engine
parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you
do, you can be burned.
Don’t run the engine
if there is a leak. If you
run
the engine, it could lose all coolant. That
could cause an engine fire, and you could be
burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the
vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again.
The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle
speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal
down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn
off
the engine.
Notice: Engine damage from running your engine
without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.
See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating
Mode”
in the Index for information on driving to a
safe place
in an emergency.
Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that
you use only
DEX-COOL@ (silicate-free) coolant.
If coolant other than DEX-COOL@ is added to
the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion
may result. In addition, the engine
coolant will require change sooner
- at 30,000 miles
(50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first.
Damage caused by
the use of coolant other
than DEX-COOL@ is not covered by your new vehicle
warranty.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant
Surge Tank
If you haven’t found a problem yet, check to see if
coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible
but the coolant level isn’t at or above the
FULL
COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable
water and
DEX-COOL@ coolant at the coolant
surge tank, but be sure the cooling system, including
the coolant surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you
do it. See Engine Coolant on
page 5-22 for more
information.
If no coolant is visible in the surge tank, add coolant as
follows:
5-29

Steam and scalding liquids f I hl cooling
system can blow out
and burn you badly. They
are under pressure,
and if you turn the radiator
pressure cap
-- even a little -- they can come
out
at high speed. Never turn the cap when the
cooling system, including the radiator pressure
cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and
radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have
to turn the pressure cap.
5-30

Adding only plain water to your cooling
system can be dangerous. Plain water, or
some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil
before the proper coolant mixture will. Your
vehicle's coolant warning system
is set for the
proper coolant mixture.
With plain water or the
wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot
but you wouldn't get the overheat warning.
Your engine could catch fire and you or others
could be burned. Use a
50/50 mixture of clean,
drinkable water and DEX
COOL@ coolant.
Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack
the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Use the recommended coolant and the proper
coolant mixture. You can be burned
if you spill coolant on tist
engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol
and
it will burn if the engine parts are hot
enough. Don't
spill coolant on a hot engine.
1. Park the vehicle on a
level surface.
SURGE RESERVOIR
15 PSI
TANK - 105 kPa
D'EXPANSION I
You
can remove the coolant surge tank pressure
cap when the cooling system, including the coolant
surge tank pressure cap and upper radiator hose,
is no longer hot.
Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise
(left) about one full turn. If you hear a hiss, wait for
that
to stop. A hiss means there is still some
pressure left.
5-31

4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start
the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper
radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant
surge tank may be lower. If the level
is lower, add
more of the proper mixture to the coolant surge tank
until the level reaches
FULL COLD mark.
5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the
pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch
is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air
tu cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases as the clutch more fully engages.
So
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine.
It will go away as the fan clutch partially
disengages.
5-33

100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
0 Inspect spark plug wires. An Emission Control
ii Repiace spark piugs. An Emission Zoniroi Service.
0 Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if
the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more
of these conditions:
Service.
- In heavy
city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
- In hilly or mountainous terrain.
- When doing frequent trailer towing.
- Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
Ll If you haven’t used your vehicle under severe service
conditions listed previously and, therefore, haven’t
changed your automatic transmission fluid, change
both the fluid and filter.
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)
0 Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every
60 months since last service, whichever occurs first). See
Engine Codant on page 5-22 for what to me.
Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure
cap and neck. Pressure test the cooling system
and pressure cap. An Emission Control Service.
0 Inspect engine accessory drive belt. An Emission
Control Service.
U Inspect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve.
An Emission Control Service.
6-9

Part C: Periodic Maintenance
Inspections
Listed in this part are inspections and services which
should be performed at least twice a year (for instance,
each spring and fall).
You should let your dealer’s
service department or other qualified service center do
these jobs. Make sure any necessary repairs are
completed at once.
Proper procedures
to perform these services may be
found in a service manual. See Service Publications
Ordering Information on page
7- IO.
Steering and Suspension Inspection
Inspect the front and rear suspension and steering
system for damaged, loose or missing parts, signs of
wear or lack of lubrication. Inspect the power steering
lines and hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks,
cracks, chafing, etc.
Exhaust System Inspection
Inspect the complete exhaust system. Inspect the body
near the exhaust system. Look for broken, damaged,
missing or out-of-position parts as well as open seams,
holes, loose connections or other conditions which
could cause a heat build-up in the floor pan or could let
exhaust fumes into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust
on page 2-29.
Fuel System Inspection
Engine Cooling System Inspection
Inspect the complete fuel system for damage or leaks.
Inspect the hoses and have them replaced
if they
are cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect all pipes,
fittings and clamps; replace as needed. Clean the
outside of the radiator and air conditioning condenser.
To help ensure proper operation, a pressure test of
the cooling system and pressure cap is recommended
at least once a year.
Transfer Case and Front Axle
(All-Wheel Drive) Inspection
Every 12 months, or at engine oil change intervals,
check front axle and transfer case and add lubricant
when necessary.
A fluid loss could indicate a problem.
Check and have it repaired,
if needed. Check vent
hose at transfer case for kinks and proper installation.
Brake System Inspection
Inspect the complete system. Inspect brake lines and
hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks,
chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and rotors
for surface condition. Inspect other brake parts,
including calipers, parking brake, etc. You may need
to
have your brakes inspected more often if your driving
habits or conditions result in frequent braking.
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