2003 DODGE RAM app

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the
exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shields (Fig. 94).
(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder
head.
INSTALLATION
RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 93 Exhaust Manifold Right
1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - NUTS
3 - MANIFOLD FLANGE
Fig. 94 Exhaust Manifold left
1 - HEAT SHIELD
2 - NUTS
3 - MANIFOLD FLANGE
9 - 74 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use oil based liquids to clean tim-
ing cover or block surfaces. Use only rubbing alco-
hol, along with plastic or wooden scrapers. Use no
wire brushes or abrasive wheels or metal scrapers,
or damage to surfaces could result.
(1) Clean timing chain cover and block surface
using rubbing alcohol.
CAUTION: The 3.7L uses a special anerobic sealer
instead of a gasket to seal the timing cover to the
engine block, from the factory. For service repairs,
MoparTEngine RTV must be used as a substitute.
(2) Inspect the water passage o-rings for any dam-
age, and replace as necessary.
(3) Apply MopartEngine RTV sealer to front cover
following the path below usinga3to4mmthick
bead (Fig. 105).
(4) Install cover. Tighten fasteners in sequence as
shown in to 58 N´m (43 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 106).
(5) Install crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - INSTALLATION).(7) Install the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install accessory drive belt tensioner assembly
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/BELT
TENSIONERS - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Install both heater hoses.
(11) Install electric fan shroud and viscous fan
drive assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN
DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - INSTALLATION).
(12) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(13) Connect the battery negative cable.
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove right and left cylinder head covers(Re-
fer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER
HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove radiator fan shroud(Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Rotate engine until timing mark on crankshaft
damper aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover
(Fig. 108) and the camshaft sprocket ªV6º marks are
at the 12 o'clock position (#1 TDC exhaust stroke)
(Fig. 107).
(6) Remove power steering pump(Refer to 19 -
STEERING/PUMP - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove access plug from left and right cylinder
heads for access to chain guide fasteners (Fig. 109).
Fig. 105 TIMING COVER SEALANT
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - WATER PASSAGE ORING
3 - MOPARTENGINE RTV SEALER
Fig. 106 TIMING CHAIN COVER FASTENERS
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 81
TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) (Continued)

(8) Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the
right side tensioner arm fastener.
(9) Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL) and timing chain cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(10) Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner.
CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain ten-
sioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan
opening.
(11) Remove secondary chain tensioners.
(12) Remove camshaft position sensor (Fig. 110).
CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage
camshaft target wheel. Do not hold target wheel
while loosening or tightening camshaft sprocket.
Do not place the target wheel near a magnetic
source of any kind. A damaged or magnetized tar-
get wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition.CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or
crankshaft independently of each other. Damaging
intake valve to piston contact will occur. Ensure
negative battery cable is disconnected to guard
against accidental starter engagement.
(13) Remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.
(14) While holding the left camshaft steel tube
with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the
left camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft
approximately 5 degrees clockwise to a neutral posi-
tion.
(15) While holding the right camshaft steel tube
with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the
right camshaft sprocket.
(16) Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
(17) Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank
sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the pri-
mary and secondary chains.
(18) Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and
chain guides.
(19) Remove primary chain tensioner.
INSPECTION
Inspect the following components:
²Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth
markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket
replacement.
²Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for
excessive wear.
²Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint
should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
²Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these
parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm
(0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or
melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The
tensioner should be replaced.
²Secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting
device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between
tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition
exist the tensioner tensioner arm and chain should
be replaced.
²Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as
required.
Fig. 110 Camshaft Position Sensor
1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 - CAMSAHFT POSITION SENSOR
3 - SCREW
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 83
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary
chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush
with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool,
release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against
spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet
device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner
body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on
front of tensioner (Fig. 111). Slowly open vise to
transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
(2) Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump
and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner
bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install right side chain tensioner arm. Install
Torxtbolt. Tighten Torxtbolt to 28 N´m (250 in.
lbs.).
CAUTION: The silver bolts retain the guides to the
cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides
to the engine block.(4) Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Install left side chain tensioner arm, and Torxt
bolt. Tighten Torxtbolt to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(7) Install both secondary chains onto the idler
sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary
chains to be visible through the two lower openings
on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once
the secondary timing chains are installed, position
special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installa-
tion.
(8) Align primary chain double plated links with
the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
Align the primary chain single plated link with the
timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
(9) Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean
engine oil.
NOTE: The idler sprocket must be timed to the
counterbalance shaft drive gear before the idler
sprocket is fully seated.
Fig. 111 RESETTING SECONDARY CHAIN
TENSIONERS
1 - VISE
2 - INSERT LOCK PIN
3 - RATCHET PAWL
4 - RATCHET
5 - PISTON
Fig. 112 INSTALLING IDLER GEAR, PRIMARY AND
SECONDARY TIMING CHAINS
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8429
2 - PRIMARY CHAIN IDLER SPROCKET
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
9 - 84 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS (Continued)

ENGINE - 4.7L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery 1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
4. Faulty coil or control unit. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
6. Dirt or water in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. 7. Repair or replace as necessary.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE 1. Idle speed set to low. 1. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL INJECTION/IDLE AIR
CONTROL MOTOR - REMOVAL).
2. Idle mixture too lean or too rich. 2. Refer to Powertrain Diagnosis
Information.
3. Vacuum leak. 3. Inspect intake manifold and
vacuum hoses, repair or replace as
necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
5. Incorrect engine timing. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE
TIMING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
1. ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt or water in fuel system. 2. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump. 3. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
4. Blown cylinder head gasket. 4. Replace cylinder head gasket.
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 89

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
5. Low compression. 5. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
6. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 6. Replace as necessary.
7. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system.7. Inspect and replace as
necessary.
8. Faulty coil. 8. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
1. ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Dirt in fuel system. 2. Clean fuel system.
3. Burned, warped or pitted valves. 3. Replcae as necessary.
4. Faulty coil. 4. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
1. ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH
SPEED1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly
gapped.1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
- CLEANING).
2. Faulty coil. 2. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION
COIL - REMOVAL).
3. Dirt or water in fuel system. 3. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
9 - 90 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either per-
formance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING)ÐPERFORMANCE and (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)ÐMECHANICAL for
possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) and (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) for the fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following diagnosis:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING).
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING).
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier than using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 93
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure applies to both the 4X2 and
4X4 vehicles, steps that apply to the 4X4 vehicle
only, are identified.
(1) Disconnect the battery negative and positive
cables.
(2) Remove the battery and the battery tray.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove exhaust crossover pipe from exhaust
manifolds.
(5)4X4 vehiclesDisconnect axle vent tube from
left side engine mount.
(6) Remove the through bolt retaining nut and bolt
from both the left and right side engine mounts.
(7)4X4 vehiclesRemove locknut from left and
right side engine mount brackets.
(8) Disconnect two ground straps from the lower
left hand side and one ground strap from the lower
right hand side of the engine.
(9) Disconnect crankshaft position sensor. (Fig. 1)
NOTE: The following step applies to 4X4 vehicles
equipped with automatic transmission only.
(10)4X4 vehiclesRemove the axle isolator
bracket from the engine, transmission and the axle.
(11) Remove structural cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER -
REMOVAL).(12) Remove starter (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(13) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Remove torque converter bolts (Automatic
Transmission Only).
(15) Remove transmission to engine mounting
bolts.
(16) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable from the block heater, if equipped.
(17) Lower vehicle.
(18) Remove throttle body resonator assembly and
air inlet hose.
(19) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(20) Disconnect tube from both the left and right
side crankcase breathers (Fig. 2). Remove breathers
(21) Discharge A/C system (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIG-
ERANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(22) Remove A/C compressor (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COM-
PRESSOR - REMOVAL).
(23) Remove shroud, fan assembly (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS
CLUTCH - REMOVAL) and accessory drive belt
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE
BELTS - REMOVAL).
(24) Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at the
radiator.
Fig. 1 Crankshaft Position Sensor
1 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
3 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
4 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER BLOCK
9 - 94 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)