2003 DODGE RAM check engine light

and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

cuit separation in the event of a front or rear brake
malfunction. The reservoir compartments will retain
enough fluid to operate the functioning hydraulic cir-
cuit.
Care must be exercised when removing/installing
the master cylinder connecting lines. The threads in
the cylinder fluid ports can be damaged if care is not
exercised. Start all brake line fittings by hand to
avoid cross threading.
The cylinder reservoir can be replaced when neces-
sary. However, the aluminum body section of the
master cylinder is not a repairable component.
NOTE: If diagnosis indicates that an internal mal-
function has occurred, the aluminum body section
must be replaced as an assembly.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 36).(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 37).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
Fig. 36 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
5 - 20 BRAKES - BASEDR
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

(2) Install the one mounting bolt for the adjustable
pedal motor (Fig. 46).
(3) Clip the cable fasteners to the support.
(4) Reconnect the electrical connector.
(5) Reconnect the adjustable pedal cables to the
brake and accelerator pedals.
(6) Install the new brake light switch (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(7) Install the kneeblocker (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
(9) Check for proper operation of the pedals.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
All models use a tandem diaphragm, power brake
booster.
NOTE: The power brake booster is not a repairable
component. The booster must be replaced as an
assembly if diagnosis indicates a malfunction has
occurred.
OPERATION
The booster unit consists of a single housing
divided into two by a tandem diaphragm. The outer
edge of the diaphragm is secured to the housing. The
booster push rod, which connects the booster to the
brake pedal and master cylinder, is attached to the
center of the diaphragm. A check valve is used in the
booster outlet connected to the engine intake mani-
fold. Power assist is generated by utilizing a combi-
nation of vacuum and atmospheric pressure to boost
brake assist.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove master cylinder. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER CYLINDER -
REMOVAL).
(2) Disconnect vacuum line at booster.
(3) Remove clip securing booster push rod to brake
pedal (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/PEDAL - REMOVAL). (Fig. 47).
(4) Remove the nuts from the booster mounting
studs (Fig. 47).
(5) Remove the booster and gasket from front cowl
panel.
INSTALLATION
(1) Guide the booster studs into the cowl panel
holes and seat the booster on the panel (Fig. 47).(2) Install and tighten new booster attaching nuts
to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the booster push rod on brake pedal and
install clip (Fig. 47).
(4) Install the booster check valve if removed and
connect the vacuum hose to the check valve.
(5) Install the master cylinder. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Fill and bleed the brake system. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE
BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
Fig. 47 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 25
ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR (Continued)

system is pressurized and uses a centrifugal water
pump to circulate coolant throughout the system.
5.9L, 5.9L Diesel, and 8.0L engines utilize an
ambient overflow bottle for coolant recovery/reserve.
The 3.7L and 4.7L engines utilize a pressurized
degas bottle for coolant deaeration and reserve. This
degas bottle has coolant flowing through it continu-
ously, supplied by a vent in the hot side radiator
tank and returning to the heater return hose.
An optional factory installed maximum duty cool-
ing package is available on most models. This pack-
age will provide additional cooling capacity for
vehicles used under extreme conditions such as
trailer towing in high ambient temperatures.
OPERATIONÐHOSE CLAMPS
The spring type hose clamp applies constant ten-
sion on a hose connection. To remove a spring type
hose clamp, only use constant tension clamp pliers
designed to compress the hose clamp.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐON-BOARD
DIAGNOSTICS (OBD)
COOLING SYSTEM RELATED DIAGNOSTICS
The Engine Control Module (ECM) has been pro-
grammed to monitor certain cooling system compo-
nents:
²If the engine has remained cool for too long a
period, such as with a stuck open thermostat, a Diag-
nostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.²If an open or shorted condition has developed in
the electronically controlled viscous fan clutch circuit,
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.
²If fan speed is not detected a DTC will be set.
²Coolant temperature sensor circuit problems can
set a DTC.
If the problem is sensed in a monitored circuit
often enough to indicated an actual problem, a DTC
is stored. The DTC will be stored in the ECM mem-
ory for eventual display to the service technician.
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
ACCESSING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
To read DTC's and to obtain cooling system data,
(Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL - DESCRIP-
TION).
ERASING TROUBLE CODES
After the problem has been repaired, use the
DRBIIItscan tool to erase a DTC. Refer to the
appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures ser-
vice information for operation of the DRBIIItscan
tool.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCOOLING SYSTEM
- TESTING FOR LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate the engine until the radi-
ator upper hose is warm to the touch. Aim the com-
mercially available black light tool at the components
to be checked. If leaks are present, the black light
will cause the additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 5).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inside of the filler neck and examine the
Fig. 4 Spring Clamp Size Location
1 - SPRING CLAMP SIZE LOCATION
DRCOOLING 7 - 5
COOLING (Continued)

lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt
and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/
overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a
wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside of the filler neck.
If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck.
Operate the tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15
psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge
excessively or bulges while testing, replace as neces-
sary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition of the cooling system according to following
criteria:
Holds Steady:If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in
system. However, there could be an internal leak
that does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and
leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage
or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to INTER-
NAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all of the connections for seep-
age or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal the
small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equiva-
lent). Repair the leak holes and inspect the system
again with pressure applied.Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine the system for external leakage.
If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove the engine dipstick and inspect for water
globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for
water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leak-
age.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 kPa (21 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate the engine without the pressure cap on
the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a
Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds
up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This
is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of the gauge pointer indicates compres-
sion or combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notshort out cylinders to isolate com-
pression leak.
If the needle on dial of the pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TESTÐWITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 6 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED)1. Radiator and/or A/C condenser
air flow obstructed.1. Remove obstruction and/or clean.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive not working.2. Check fan drive. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
3. Air seals around radiator
damaged or missing.3. Inspect air seals, repair or
replace as necessary.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE. GAUGE MAY OR
MAY NOT READ LOW.1. Heavy duty cooling system, and
cooler ambient temperatures.1. None. Normal condition.
2. Obstruction in heater hoses. 2. Remove hoses, remove
obstruction.
3. Electronically controlled viscous
fan stuck onCheck fan drive. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
4. Water pump damaged. 4. Replace water pump.
HEAT ODOR 1. Damaged or missing drive line
heat shields.1. Repair or replace damaged or
missing heat shields.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive damaged.2. Check thermal viscous fan drive.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - PRELIMINARY
CHECKS
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING
Establish what driving conditions caused the com-
plaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as
the following may be the cause:
²PROLONGED IDLE
²VERY HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURE
²SLIGHT TAIL WIND AT IDLE
²SLOW TRAFFIC
²TRAFFIC JAMS
²HIGH SPEED OR STEEP GRADES
Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:
²Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at
end of normal range.
²Increasing engine speed for more air flow is rec-
ommended.
TRAILER TOWING:
Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual.
Do not exceed limits.RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:
Determine if any recent service has been per-
formed on vehicle that may effect the cooling system.
This may be:
²Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
²Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
²Brakes (possibly dragging)
²Changed parts. Incorrect water pump or pump
rotating in wrong direction due to belt not correctly
routed
²Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refill-
ing (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).
²Service to electrically controlled viscous fan
clutch
NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous
items as a cause for an engine overheating com-
plaint, refer to COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CHART BELOW.
These charts are to be used as a quick-reference
only. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CHART
7 - 10 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Temperature gauge reading is
inconsistent (flucttuates, cycles
or is erratic)1. During cold weather
operation, with the heater blower
in the high position, the gauge
reading may drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective
or shorted. Also, corroded or
loose wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and repair if
necessary. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
3. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. Gauge should return to normal
range after vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. The gauge should return to
normal range after a few minutes of
engine operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator
(air will build up in the cooling
system causing the thermostat
to open late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks. (Refer
to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a
thermostat to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket
leaks. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil.
Inspect for white steam emitting from the
exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/WATER PUMP - REMOVAL).
8. Loose accessory drive belt.
(water pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). Check and correct as
necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of
the water pump allows air to
build up in cooling system
causing thermostat to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR
COOLANT TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING MAY BE ABOVE
NORMAL BUT NOT HIGH.
COOLANT LEVEL MAY BE
HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in
radiator cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap and cap
seals. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Replace cap
as necessary.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT
PRESSURE CAP BLOWOFF.
GAUGE READING HIGH OR
HOT1. Coolant leaks in radiator,
cooling system hoses, water
pump or engine.1. Pressure test and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
7 - 14 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

(4) Using a suitable size socket, loosen and remove
the block heater element (Fig. 10).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and inspect the threads in the cylinder
block.
(2) Coat heater element threads with Mopart
Thread Sealer with Teflon.
(3) Screw block heater into cylinder block and
tighten to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.).
(4) Connect block heater cord and tighten retain-
ing cap.
(5) Fill cooling system with recommended coolant
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Start and warm the engine.
(7) Check block heater for leaks.
ENGINE COOLANT
TEMPERATURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is
used to sense engine coolant temperature. The sensor
protrudes into an engine water jacket.
The ECT sensor is a two-wire Negative Thermal
Coefficient (NTC) sensor. Meaning, as engine coolant
temperature increases, resistance (voltage) in the
sensor decreases. As temperature decreases, resis-
tance (voltage) in the sensor increases.
OPERATION
At key-on, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
sends out a regulated 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor.
The PCM then monitors the signal as it passes
through the ECT sensor to the sensor ground (sensor
return).When the engine is cold, the PCM will operate in
Open Loop cycle. It will demand slightly richer air-
fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds. This is done
until normal operating temperatures are reached.
The PCM uses inputs from the ECT sensor for the
following calculations:
²for engine coolant temperature gauge operation
through CCD or PCI (J1850) communications
²Injector pulse-width
²Spark-advance curves
²ASD relay shut-down times
²Idle Air Control (IAC) motor key-on steps
²Pulse-width prime-shot during cranking
²O2 sensor closed loop times
²Purge solenoid on/off times
²EGR solenoid on/off times (if equipped)
²Leak Detection Pump operation (if equipped)
²Radiator fan relay on/off times (if equipped)
²Target idle speed
REMOVAL
3.7L V-6
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on
the 3.7L engine is installed into a water jacket at
front of intake manifold near rear of generator (Fig.
11).
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
(1) Partially drain the cooling system.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
sensor.
(3) Remove the sensor from the intake manifold.
4.7L V-8
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT)
SENSOR.
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on
the 4.7L V-8 engine is located near the front of the
intake manifold (Fig. 12).
(1) Partially drain the cooling system. Refer to 7,
COOLING.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
ECT sensor.
(3) Remove the sensor from the intake manifold.
Fig. 10 Block Heater-Diesel Engine
1 - BLOCK HEATER
7 - 44 ENGINEDR
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)