2002 JEEP LIBERTY Lines

²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for
reinstallation.
(3) Remove air cleaner assembly.(4) Remove radiator core support bracket.
(5) Remove fan shroud with electric fan assembly.
(6) Remove mechanical cooling fan.
(7) Remove drive belt.
NOTE: It is NOT necessary to discharge the A/C
system to remove the engine.
(8) Remove A/C compressor and secure away from
engine with lines attached.
(9) Remove generator and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the
P/S pump. It is not required for P/S pump removal.
(10) Remove power steering pump with lines
attached and secure away from engine.
(11) Drain cooling system.
(12) Remove coolant bottle.
(13) Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
(14) Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and
remove hose assembly.
(15) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(16) Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
(17) Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
(18) Disconnect the engine to body ground straps
at the left side of cowl.
(19) Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(20) Remove coil over plugs.
(21) Release fuel rail pressure.
(22) Remove fuel rail and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: It is not necessary to release the quick con-
nect fitting from the fuel supply line for engine
removal.
(23) Remove the PCV hose.
(24) Remove the breather hoses.
(25) Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
(26) Disconnect knock sensors.
(27) Remove engine oil dipstick tube.
(28) Remove intake manifold.
(29) Install engine lift plate.
Fig. 2 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 10 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS AND SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN IIis used to seal
components exposed to engine oil. This material is a
specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Alwaysinspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTVis a specifically designed
black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and
sealing properties to seal components exposed to
automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKERis an anaerobic type
gasket material. The material cures in the absence of
air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It
will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The
anaerobic material is for use between two machined
surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtBED PLATE SEALANTis a unique
(green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that
is specially made to seal the area between the bed-
plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bear-
ing clearance or alignment of these components. The
material cures slowly in the absence of air when
torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rap-
idly cure when heat is applied.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANTis a slow drying,
permanently soft sealer. This material is recom-
mended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets
against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on
threaded and machined parts under all tempera-
tures. This material is used on engines with multi-
layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This
material also will prevent corrosion. MopartGasket
Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16
oz. can w/applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
9s - 10 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
(4) Install the proper crankshaft bearings to
achieve the specified bearing clearances. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD
BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
REMOVAL - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove hood. Mark hood hinge location for
reinstallation.
(3) Remove air cleaner assembly.
(4) Remove radiator core support bracket.
(5) Remove fan shroud with electric fan assembly.
(6) Remove drive belt.
NOTE: It is NOT necessary to discharge the A/C
system to remove the engine.
(7) Remove A/C compressor and secure away from
engine with lines attached.
(8) Remove generator and secure away from
engine.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the phenolic pulley from the
P/S pump. It is not required for P/S pump removal.
(9) Remove power steering pump with lines
attached and secure away from engine.
(10) Drain cooling system.
(11) Remove coolant bottle.
(12) Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine.
(13) Disconnect heater hoses from heater core and
remove hose assembly.
(14) Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
(15) Remove upper radiator hose from engine.
(16) Remove lower radiator hose from engine.
(17) Disconnect the engine to body ground straps
at the left side of cowl.
(18) Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the
following points:
²Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
²Fuel Injectors
²Throttle Position (TPS) Switch
²Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
²Engine Oil Pressure Switch
²Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
²Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
²Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
²Coil Over Plugs
²Crankshaft Position Sensor
(19) Remove coil over plugs.
(20) Release fuel rail pressure.(21) Remove fuel rail and secure away from
engine.
(22) Remove the PCV hose.
(23) Remove the breather hoses.
(24) Remove the vacuum hose for the power brake
booster.
(25) Disconnect knock sensors.
(26) Secure the left and right engine wiring har-
nesses away from engine.
(27) Raise vehicle.
(28) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(29) Disconnect crankshaft postion sensor.
(30) Disconnect the engine block heater power
cable, if equipped.
(31) Disconnect the front propshaft at the front
differential and secure out of way.
(32) Remove the starter.
(33) Remove the ground straps from the engine
(34) Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold.
(35) Remove the structural cover, if equipped.
(36) Remove torque convertor bolts, and mark
location for reassembly.
(37) Remove transmission bellhousing to engine
bolts.
(38) Loosen left and right engine mount thru bolts.
NOTE: It is not necessary to completely remove
engine mount thru bolts, for engine removal.
(39) Lower the vehicle.
(40) Support the transmission with a suitable jack.
(41) Connect a suitable engine hoist to the engine.
CAUTION: The 2.4L engine with manual transmis-
sions, can be removed without removing the man-
ual transmission. Use caution when attempting this
procedure as the clearance is tight.
(42) Remove engine from vehicle.
INSTALLATION - ENGINE ASSEMBLY
(1) Position the engine in the vehicle.
CAUTION: Use caution when installing 2.4L engine
into vehicle equipped with manual transmission, as
clearance is tight.
(2) Install both left and right side engine mounts
into the frame mounts.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Install the transmission bellhousing to engine
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41 N´m (30ft.
lbs.).
(5) Tighten the engine mount thru bolts.
(6) Install the torque convertor bolts.
(7) Connect the ground straps on the left and right
side of the engine.
9s - 12 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50±70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD
(1) Perform fuel system pressure release procedure
before attempting any repairs.(Refer to 14 -FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - SPECIFICA-
TIONS)
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(3) Drain cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Remove air filter housing and inlet tube.
(5) Remove intake manifold.
(6) Remove heater tube support bracket from cyl-
inder head.
(7) Disconnect radiator upper and heater supply
hoses from water outlet connections.
(8) Remove accessory drive belts. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(9) Raise vehicle and remove exhaust pipe from
manifold.
(10) Remove power steering pump and set aside.
Do not disconnect lines.
(11) Remove accessory drive bracket
(12) Remove ignition coil and wires from engine.
(13) Disconnect cam sensor and fuel injector wir-
ing connectors.
(14) Remove timing belt and camshaft sprockets.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(15) Remove timing belt idler pulley and rear tim-
ing belt cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIM-
ING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) -
REMOVAL)
(16) Remove cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(17) Remove camshafts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - REMOVAL).
NOTE: Identify rocker arm position to ensure cor-
rect re-installation in original position, if reused.
(18) Remove rocker arms. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARMS - REMOVAL).
(19) Remove cylinder head bolts in REVERSE
sequence of tightening.
(20) Remove cylinder head from engine block.
(21) Inspect and clean cylinder head. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSPECTION) (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - CLEANING)
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
9s - 20 ENGINEKJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

²Third All to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.)
CAUTION: Do not use a torque wrench for the fol-
lowing step.
²Fourth Turn an additional 1/4 Turn,
(5) Install rocker arms. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARMS - INSTALLA-
TION)
(6) Install camshafts. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYL-
INDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) Install cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
(8) Install timing belt rear cover and timing belt
idler pulley. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLA-
TION)
(9) Install timing belt and camshaft sprockets.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)
(10) Connect cam sensor and fuel injectors wiring
connectors.(11) Install ignition coil and wires. Connect igni-
tion coil wiring connector.
(12) Install accessary drive bracket.
(13) Install power steering pump to cylinder head.
(14) Raise vehicle and install the exhaust pipe to
the manifold.
(15) Install accessory drive belts. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION)
(16) Install heater tube support bracket to cylinder
head.
(17) Install intake manifold.
(18) Connect all vacuum lines, electrical wiring,
ground straps and fuel line.
(19) Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(20) Connect battery negative cable.
CAMSHAFT OIL SEAL(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Remove timing belt. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(2) Hold each camshaft sprocket with Special Tool
6847 while removing center bolt (Fig. 12).
(3) Remove camshaft sprockets.
(4) Remove exhaust camshaft target ring.
(5) Remove exhaust camshaft sensor.
CAUTION: Inspect sensor and target ring for exces-
sive wear. Clean sensor face and install new spacer
pad.
(6) Remove rear timing belt cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(7) Remove camshaft seal using Special Tool
C-4679-A (Fig. 13).
CAUTION: Do not nick shaft seal surface or seal
bore.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Clean and inspect sensor and target ring for
excessive wear. Clean sensor face and always
install a new spacer pad.
(1) Shaft seal surface must be free of varnish, dirt
or nicks. Polish with 400 grit paper if necessary.
(2) Install camshaft seals into cylinder head using
Special Tool MD-998306 until flush with head (Fig.
14).
Fig. 10 Cylinder Head Gasket Positioning
1 - PART NUMBER FACES UP
2 - NO. 1 CYLINDER
Fig. 11 Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence
9s - 22 ENGINEKJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

(2) Spray a small stream of water (Spray Bottle) at
the suspected leak area.
(3) If engine RPM'S change, the area of the sus-
pected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Disconnect connector from inlet air tempera-
ture sensor.
(3) Disconnect air intake tube at throttle body and
remove upper air cleaner housing.
(4) Disconnect connector from throttle position
sensor (TPS).
(5) Disconnect connector from idle air control (IAC)
motor.
(6) Disconnect connector from MAP sensor.
(7) Remove vacuum lines for purge solenoid and
PCV valve at intake manifold.
(8) Remove vacuum lines for power brake booster,
LDP, EGR transducer, and speed control vacuum res-
ervoir (if equipped) at intake manifold fittings.
(9) Disconnect throttle, speed control (if equipped),
and transaxle control (if equipped) and cables from
throttle lever and bracket. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL INJECTION/THROTTLE CONTROL
CABLE - REMOVAL)
(10) Perform fuel system pressure release proce-
durebefore attempting any repairs.(Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
(11) Disconnect fuel line. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FIT-
TING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(12) Disconnect coolant temperature sensor/fuel
injector wire harness connector.
(13) Disconnect fuel injector harness.
(14) Remove intake manifold to cylinder head fas-
teners.
(15) Remove the manifold from engine.
CAUTION: Cover intake manifold openings to pre-
vent foreign material from entering engine.
(16) Inspect the manifold. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSPECTION)
INSPECTION
(1) Check manifold surfaces for flatness with
straight edge. Surface must be flat within 0.15 mm
per 300 mm (0.006 in. per foot) of manifold length.
(2) Inspect manifold for cracks or distortion.
Replace manifold if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean manifold sealing surfaces.
(2) Install new manifold to cylinder head seals.
(3) Install manifold to head.
(4) Install and tighten intake manifold fasteners to
28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 90).
Repeat procedure until all bolts are at specified
torque.
(5) Install throttle cables in bracket.
(6) Connect throttle, speed control, (if equipped),
cables to throttle lever.
(7) Connect vacuum lines for power brake booster,
LDP, EGR transducer, and speed control vacuum res-
ervoir (if equipped) at upper intake manifold fittings.
(8) Connect vacuum lines for purge solenoid and
PCV valve.
(9) Connect electrical connectors for MAP sensor,
throttle position sensor (TPS), and idle air control
(IAC) motor.
(10) Connect the fuel line. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FIT-
TING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(11) Connect coolant temperature sensor/fuel injec-
tor wiring harness electrical connector.
(12) Install the air cleaner housing and air intake
tube to throttle body.
(13) Connect inlet air temperature sensor connec-
tor.
(14) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 90 LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD TIGHTENING
SEQUENCE
9s - 52 ENGINEKJ
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EXHAUST SYSTEM
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
EXCESSIVE EXHAUST NOISE OR
LEAKING EXHAUST GASES1. Leaks at pipe joints. 1. Tighten clamps/bolts to specified
torque at leaking joints.
2. Rusted or blown out muffler. 2. Replace muffler. Inspect exhaust
system.
3. Broken or rusted out exhaust
pipe.3. Replace exhaust pipe.
4. Exhaust pipe leaking at manifold
flange.4. Tighten/replace flange attaching
nuts/bolts.
5. Exhaust manifold cracked or
broken.5. Replace exhaust manifold.
6. Leak between exhaust manifold
and cylinder head.6. Tighten exhaust manifold to
cylinder head bolts.
7. Catalytic converter rusted or
blown out.7. Replace catalytic converter assy.
8. Restriction in exhaust system. 8. Remove restriction, if possible.
Replace restricted part if necessary.
CAUTION:
When servicing and replacing exhaust system components, disconnect the oxygen sensor connector(s). Allowing
the exhaust to hang by the oxygen sensor wires will damage the harness and/or sensor.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
DESCRIPTION - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER WORK AROUND OR ATTEMPT
TO SERVICE ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
UNTIL IT IS COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE
TAKEN WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC
CONVERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CON-
VERTER RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove spark plug wires from
plugs or by any other means short out cylinders.
Failure of the catalytic converter can occur due to a
temperature increase caused by unburned fuel
passing through the converter.
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is
designed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat
can result in bulging or other distortion, but exces-
sive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If
unburned fuel enters the converter, overheating may
occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct thecause of the damage at the same time the converter
is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the
exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid con-
taminating the catalyst core.
50 State emission vehicles incorporate two mini
catalytic converters located after the exhaust mani-
folds and before the inline catalytic converter.
REMOVAL
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with heat valve
lubricant. Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove the bolts from the crossover pipe to the
catalytic converter connection.
(4) Disconnect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Loosen the nuts from the clamp that hold the
catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe flange connec-
tion.
11 - 2 EXHAUST SYSTEMKJ
EXHAUST SYSTEM (Continued)

NOTE: Do not remove nut from T-Bolt. Only remove
nut far enough, so that the T end can be removed
from the clamp.
(6) Remove the T bolt end of the fastener, from the
clamp.
(7) Spread the clamp, and remove the catalytic
converter from the vehicle.
(8) Discard the clamp (Fig. 1).
NOTE: The catalytic converter to exhaust manifold
clamp is not reusable. Always use a new clamp
when reinstalling the catalytic converter.
INSPECTION
Look at the stainless steel body of the converter,
inspect for bulging or other distortion that could be a
result of overheating. If the converter has a heat
shield attached make sure it is not bent or loose.
If you suspect internal damage to the catalyst, tap-
ping the bottom of the catalyst with a rubber mallet
may indicate a damaged core.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the catalytic converter onto the
exhaust pipe flange connection. Tighten the nuts to
28 N´m (250 in. lbs.) torque.(2) Install the muffler onto the catalytic converter
until the alignment tab is inserted into the align-
ment slot.
(3) Install the exhaust clamp at the muffler and
catalytic converter connection. Tighten the clamp
nuts to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Connect oxygen sensor wiring.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Start the engine and inspect for exhaust leaks
and exhaust system contact with the body panels.
Adjust the alignment, if needed.
CROSS-OVER PIPE
REMOVAL
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
WARNING: THE NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERA-
TURE OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS VERY HIGH.
THEREFORE, NEVER WORK AROUND OR ATTEMPT
TO SERVICE ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM
UNTIL IT IS COOLED. SPECIAL CARE SHOULD BE
TAKEN WHEN WORKING NEAR THE CATALYTIC
CONVERTER. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CON-
VERTER RISES TO A HIGH LEVEL AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF ENGINE OPERATION TIME.
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Saturate the bolts and nuts with lubricant.
Allow 5 minutes for penetration.
(3) Remove the retaining fasteners holding cross-
over pipe to exhaust pipe.
(4) Remove the fasteners from the crossover pipe
to the catalytic converter connection.
(5) Remove the crossove pipe from the hanger
insulator (Fig. 2).
INSTALLATION
WARNING: IF TORCHES ARE USED WHEN WORK-
ING ON THE EXHAUST SYSTEM, DO NOT ALLOW
THE FLAME NEAR THE FUEL LINES.
Fig. 1 Catalyst Removal
1 - V-Clamp
2 - Catalytic Converter
3 - Flange
4 - Crossover Pipe
5 - T-Bolt
KJEXHAUST SYSTEM 11 - 3
CATALYTIC CONVERTER (Continued)