2002 JEEP LIBERTY Lines

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can alsoweaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction. Con-
ditions, causes and corrective action are outlined in
the indicated columns.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
Clutch disc facing contaminated with
oil, grease, or clutch fluid.1. Leak at rear main engine seal or
transmission input shaft seal.1. Replace appropriate seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease
applied to the input shaft splines.2. Remove grease and apply the
correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering
housing.3. Replace clutch disc. Clean clutch
cover and reuse if in good condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch linkage.
Clutch is running partially
disengaged.1. Release bearing sticking or
binding and does not return to the
normal running position.1. Verify failure. Replace the release
bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer as necessary.
Flywheel below minimum thickness
specification.1. Improper flywheel machining.
Flywheel has excessive taper or
excessive material removal.1. Replace flywheel.
Clutch disc, cover and/or diaphragm
spring warped or distorted.1. Rough handling. Impact bent
cover, spring, or disc.1. Replace disc or cover as
necessary.
2. Improper bolt tightening
procedure.2. Tighten clutch cover using proper
procedure.
KJCLUTCH 6 - 3
CLUTCH (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Facing on flywheel side of disc torn,
gouged, or worn.1. Flywheel surface scored or
nicked.2. Correct surface condition if
possible. Replace flywheel and disc
as necessary.
2. Clutch disc sticking or binding on
transmission input shaft.2. Lubricate splines with high
temperature graese.
Clutch disc facing burnt. Flywheel
and cover pressure plate surfaces
heavily glazed.1. Frequent operation under high
loads or hard acceleration
conditions.1. Correct condition of flywheel and
pressure plate surface. Replace
clutch cover and disc. Alert driver to
problem cause.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips)
clutch. Results in rapid wear and
overheating of disc and cover.2. Correct condition of flywheel and
pressure plate surface. Replace
clutch cover and disc. Alert driver to
problem cause.
Clutch disc binds on input shaft
splines.1. Clutch disc hub splines damaged
during installation.1. Clean, smooth, and lubricate hub
splines if possible. Replace disc if
necessary.
2. Input shaft splines rough,
damaged, or corroded.2. Clean, smooth, and lubricate
shaft splines if possible. Replace
input shaft if necessary.
Clutch disc rusted to flywheel and/or
pressure plate.1. Clutch not used for and extended
period of time (e.g. long term
vehicle storage).1. Sand rusted surfaces with 180
grit sanding paper. Replace clutch
cover and flywheel if necessary.
Pilot bearing seized, loose, or rollers
are worn.1. Bearing cocked during
installation.1. Install and lubricate a new
bearing.
2. Bearing defective. 2. Install and lubricate a new
bearing.
3. Bearing not lubricated. 3. Install and lubricate a new
bearing.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Inspect clutch and correct as
necessary. Install and lubricate a
new bearing.
Clutch will not disengage properly. 1. Low clutch fluid level. 1. Replace hydraulic linkage
assembly.
2. Clutch cover loose. 2. Follow proper bolt tightening
procedure.
3. Clutch disc bent or distorted. 3. Replace clutch disc.
4. Clutch cover diaphragm spring
bent or warped.4. Replace clutch cover.
5. Clutch disc installed backwards. 5. Remove and install clutch disc
correctly.
6. Release fork bent or fork pivot
loose or damaged.6. Replace fork or pivot as
necessary.
7. Clutch master or slave cylinder
failure.7. Replace hydraulic linkage
assembly.
6 - 4 CLUTCHKJ
CLUTCH (Continued)

CLUTCH DISC
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Mark position of pressure plate on flywheel
with paint or a scriber for assembly reference, if
clutch is not being replaced.
(3) Loosen pressure plate bolts evenly and in rota-
tion to relieve spring tension and avoid warping the
plate.
(4) Remove pressure plate bolts and pressure plate
and disc.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly scuff sand flywheel face with 180 grit
emery cloth, then clean with a wax and grease
remover.
(2) Lubricate pilot bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease or equivalent.
(3) Check runout and operation ofnewclutch disc.
NOTE: Disc must slide freely on transmission input
shaft splines.
(4) With the disc on the input shaft, check face
runout with dial indicator. Check runout at disc hub
6 mm (1/4 in.) from outer edge of facing. Obtain
another clutch disc if runout exceed 0.5 mm (0.020
in.).
(5) Position clutch disc on flywheel with side
marked flywheel against the flywheel.
NOTE: If not marked, the flat side of disc hub goes
towards the flywheel on the 3.7L engine and
towards the transmission on 2.4L engine.
(6) Insert clutch alignment tool through the clutch
disc and into the pilot bearing (Fig. 1).
(7) Position clutch pressure plate over disc and on
the flywheel (Fig. 1).
(8) Install pressure plate bolts finger tight.
CAUTION: Use only the factory bolts to mount the
pressure plate. The bolts must be the correct size.
If bolts are too short, there isn't enough thread
engagement, if too long bolts interfere with the Dual
Mass Flywheel.
(9) Tighten pressure plate bolts evenly and in rota-
tion a few threads at a time.
CAUTION: The bolts must be tightened evenly and
to specified torque to avoid distorting the pressure
plate.(10) Tighten pressure plate bolts to 31 N´m (23 ft.
lbs.) on 2.4L engines and 50 N´m (37ft. lbs.) on 3.7L
engines.
(11) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease or equivalent to clutch disc hub and
splines of transmission input shaft.
CAUTION: Do not over lubricate shaft splines. This
will result in grease contamination of disc.
(12) Install transmission.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Disconnect release bearing from release lever
and remove the bearing (Fig. 2).
(3) Inspect bearing slide surface of transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(4) Inspect release fork and fork pivot. Be sure
pivot is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace release fork retainer
spring if bent or damaged.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate crankshaft pilot bearing with Mopar
high temperature bearing grease or equivalent. Apply
grease to end of long shank, small diameter flat
blade screwdriver. Then insert tool through clutch
disc hub to reach bearing.
Fig. 1 ALIGNING CLUTCH DISC
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE
3 - CLUTCH DISC ALIGNMENT TOOL
6 - 6 CLUTCHKJ

(2) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, fork pivot and release fork pivot sur-
face.
(3) Install new release bearing. Be sure bearing is
properly secured to release fork.
(4) Install transmission.
FLYWHEEL
DESCRIPTION
STANDARD FLYWHEEL
The standard flywheel is used on the 3.7L engine.
The flywheel (Fig. 3) is a heavy plate bolted to the
rear of the crankshaft. The flywheel incorporates the
ring gear around the outer circumference to mesh
with the starter to permit engine cranking. The rear
face of the flywheel serves as the driving member to
the clutch disc.
DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL
The Dual Mass Flywheel is used on the 2.4 l
engine (Fig. 4). The flywheel incorporates the ring
gear around the outer circumference to mesh with
the starter to permit engine cranking. The primary
flywheel side is bolted to the crankshaft. The second-
ary flywheel face serves as the driving member to the
clutch disc. Internal springs between the flywheels
are use to dampen energy.
OPERATION
The flywheel serves to dampen the engine firing
pulses. The heavy weight of the flywheel relative to
the rotating mass of the engine components serves to
stabilize the flow of power to the remainder of the
drivetrain. The crankshaft has the tendency toattempt to speed up and slow down in response to
the cylinder firing pulses. The flywheel dampens
these impulses by absorbing energy when the crank-
shaft speeds and releasing the energy back into the
system when the crankshaft slows down.
Fig. 2 CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
1 - RELEASE BEARING
2 - RELEASE FORK
Fig. 3 FLYWHEEL
1 - CRANKSHAFT
2 - RING GEAR
3 - FLYWHEEL
Fig. 4 DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL
1 - LOCATING STUD
2 - BEARING
3 - SECONDARY FLYWHEEL
4 - DAMPER SPRING
5 - RING GEAR
6 - PRIMARY FLYWHEEL
7 - FRICTION DISC
KJCLUTCH 6 - 7
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

(9) Slide actuator off pivot pin.
(10) Disconnect clutch interlock safety switch
wires.(11) Remove clutch hydraulic linkage through
engine compartment.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and
connecting line are sealed units.
(1) Be sure reservoir cover on clutch master cylin-
der is tight to avoid spills.
(2) Position clutch linkage components in vehicle.
Work connecting line and slave cylinder downward
past engine and adjacent to clutch housing.
(3) Position clutch master cylinder on dash panel.
(4) Attach clutch master cylinder actuator to pivot
pin on clutch pedal.
(5) Install and tighten clutch master cylinder
attaching nuts to 38 N´m (28 ft. lbs.).
(6) Raise vehicle.
(7) Insert slave cylinder push rod through clutch
housing opening and into release lever. Be sure cap
on end of rod is securely engaged in lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
(8) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(9) Secure clutch fluid line in body and transmis-
sion clips.
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect clutch interlock safety switch wires.
MASTER CYLINDER
INSPECTION
The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave
cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at
the factory during assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances.The reservoir
fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling or remov-
ing fluid from the reservoir.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder
reservoir. An indicator ring is provided on the outside
of the reservoir. With the cap and diaphragm
removed, fluid level should not be above indicator
ring.
To avoid contaminating the hydraulic fluid during
inspection, wipe reservoir and cover clean before
removing the cap.
Fig. 6 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 7 CLUTCH PEDAL
1 - CYLINDER
2 - ACTUATOR SHAFT
3 - ACTUATOR EYE
4 - PEDAL PIN
5 - CONNECTOR
KJCLUTCH 6 - 9
LINKAGE (Continued)

(3) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cooling fan from the engine, if
equipped.
(5) Remove the two radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(7) Disconnect the connector for the electric fan.
(8) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler.
(9) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 9). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary toremove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly
fastened to their original positions. These are used
at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals
must be installed to their original positions.
(1) Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into
the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
(7) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
(9) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery cable at battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 9 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7 - 24 ENGINEKJ
RADIATOR (Continued)

Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 5). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 6). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
CAUTION: When removing the radiator or A/C con-
denser for any reason, note the location of all radi-
ator-to-body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber
air seals (Fig. 7). These are used at the top, bottom
and sides of the radiator and A/C condenser. To
prevent overheating, these seals must be installed
to their original positions.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable at bat-
tery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cooling fan from the engine, if
equipped.
(5) Remove the two radiator mounting bolts.(6) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(7) Disconnect the connector for the electric fan.
Fig. 5 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 6 Clamp Number/Letter Location - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 7 Air Seals - Typical
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
KJENGINE7s-23
RADIATOR (Continued)

(8) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler.
(9) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 8). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary to
remove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly
fastened to their original positions. These are used
at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals
must be installed to their original positions.
(1) Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into
the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
(7) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
(9) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery cable at battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 8 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7s - 24 ENGINEKJ
RADIATOR (Continued)