
REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine. Refer to Engine Assembly
in this section for procedure.
(2) Remove the engine oil pump. Refer to Oil
Pump in this section for procedure.
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.
(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan
gasket /windage tray.
(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the two stud bolts for installation.
(6) Remove the connecting rods from the crank-
shaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
sever damage to the crankshaft.
NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use
these points only. The pry points are shown below.
(7) Carefully pry on the pry points (Fig. 41) to
loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care
not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the crankshaft.
(9) Remove the crankshaft tone wheel.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bear-
ing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blue-
ing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may
be required.
If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the
cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston
and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinderblock main bearing bores show damage the engine
must be replaced.
(1) If required, remove the main bearing halves
from the cylinder block and bedplate.
(2) Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block
sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all
oil and sealant residue.
(3) Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for
cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition
exists the engine must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the crankshaft thrust washer for scor-
ing, scratches or blueing. If either condition exist
replace the thrust washer.
(5) Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for
splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces.
Replace gasket as necessary.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. Refer to
Crankshaft Main Bearings in this section for proper
bearing selections.
CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care not
to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
NOTE: Apply sealant to the tone wheel retaining
screws prior to installation.
(1) Lubricate upper main bearing halves with
clean engine oil.
(2) Install the crankshaft tone wheel. Torque the
mounting screws to 22 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
(4) Install the thrust washers (Fig. 42).
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface must be coated with MoparTEngine RTV
sealant prior to installation. Failure to do so will
cause severe oil leaks.
NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder
block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or
other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing
surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or
oil leaks.
(5) Apply a 2.5mm (0.100 inch) bead of Mopart
Engine RTV sealant to the cylinder block-to-bedplate
mating surface as shown.
(6) Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals
with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto
the cylinder block.
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 43
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise (Fig. 73)to
remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
(4) When filter separates from cylinder block oil
filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil
spill. Remove filter from vehicle.
NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with fil-
ter.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 74)hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start
engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL PAN
DESCRIPTION
The engine oil pan is made of laminated steel and
has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich
style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray
and steel carrier (Fig. 75). The sealing area of the
gasket is molded with rubber and is designed to be
reused as long as the gasket is not cut, torn or
ripped.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
REMOVAL).
(2) Position the engine in a suitable engine stand.
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gas-
ket is integral to engine windage tray and does not
come out with oil pan (Fig. 76).
(3) Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
(4) Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
(5) Remove the oil pan gasket/windage tray
assemblyfrom engine.
CLEANING
(1) Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a
clean cloth.
(2) Clean the oil pan gasket surface.DO NOTuse
a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean seal-
ing surface.
(3) Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean
solvent.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for
stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
Fig. 73 Oil Filter - 3.7L Engine
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
Fig. 74 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 63

(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
(1) Position the engine exhaust manifold and gas-
ket on the two studs located on the cylinder head.
Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
(2) Install remaining conical washers. Starting at
the center arm and working outward, tighten the
bolts and nuts to 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners,
may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
(5) Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure
with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and
nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTION
The timing drive system has been designed to pro-
vide quiet performance and reliability to support a
non-free wheelingengine. Specifically the intake
valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily dam-
aged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-
crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive
system consists of a primary chain, two secondary
timing chain drives and a counterbalance shaft drive.
OPERATION
The primary timing chain is a single inverted tooth
chain type. The primary chain drives the large 40
tooth idler sprocket directly from a 20 tooth crank-shaft sprocket. Primary chain motion is controlled by
a pivoting leaf spring tensioner arm and a fixed
guide. The arm and the guide both use nylon plastic
wear faces for low friction and long wear. The pri-
mary chain receives oil splash lubrication from the
secondary chain drive and designed oil pump leak-
age. The idler sprocket assembly connects the pri-
mary chain drive, secondary chain drives, and the
counterbalance shaft. The idler sprocket assembly
consists of two integral 26 tooth sprockets a 40 tooth
sprocket and a helical gear that is press-fit to the
assembly. The spline joint for the 40 tooth sprocket is
a non ± serviceable press fit anti rattle type. A spiral
ring is installed on the outboard side of the fifty
tooth sprocket to prevent spline disengagement. The
idler sprocket assembly spins on a stationary idler
shaft. The idler shaft is a light press-fit into the cyl-
inder block. A large washer on the idler shaft bolt
and the rear flange of the idler shaft are used to con-
trol sprocket thrust movement. Pressurized oil is
routed through the center of the idler shaft to pro-
vide lubrication for the two bushings used in the
idler sprocket assembly.
There are two secondary drive chains, both are
roller type, one to drive the camshaft in each SOHC
cylinder head. There are no shaft speed changes in
the secondary chain drive system. Each secondary
chain drives a 26 tooth cam sprocket directly from
the 26 tooth sprocket on the idler sprocket assembly.
A fixed chain guide and a hydraulic oil damped ten-
sioner are used to maintain tension in each second-
ary chain system. The hydraulic tensioners for the
secondary chain systems are fed pressurized oil from
oil reservoir pockets in the block. Each tensioner
incorprates a controled leak path through a device
known as a vent disc located in the nose of the piston
to manage chain loads. Each tensioner also has a
mechanical ratchet system that limits chain slack if
the tensioner piston bleeds down after engine shut
down. The tensioner arms and guides also utilize
nylon wear faces for low friction and long wear. The
secondary timing chains receive lubrication from a
small orifice in the tensioners. This orifice is pro-
tected from clogging by a fine mesh screen which is
located on the back of the hydraulic tensioners.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR
NOTE: This procedure must be performed with the
timing chain cover removed.
(1) Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to Timing
Chain Cover in this section for procedure.
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 71
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (Continued)

CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage
camshaft target wheel. Do not hold target wheel
while loosening or tightening camshaft sprocket.
Do not place the target wheel near a magnetic
source of any kind. A damaged or magnetized tar-
get wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition.
CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or
crankshaft independently of each other. Damaging
intake valve to piston contact will occur. Ensure
negative battery cable is disconnected to guard
against accidental starter engagement.
(13) Remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.
(14) While holding the left camshaft steel tube
with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the
left camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft
approximately 5 degrees clockwise to a neutral posi-
tion.
(15) While holding the right camshaft steel tube
with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the
right camshaft sprocket.
(16) Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
(17) Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank
sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the pri-
mary and secondary chains.
(18) Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and
chain guides.
(19) Remove chain tensioner.
INSPECTION
Inspect the following components:
²Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth
markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket
replacement.
²Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for
excessive wear.
²Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint
should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
²Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these
parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm
(0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or
melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The
tensioner should be replaced.
²Secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting
device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between
tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition
exist the tensioner tensioner arm and chain should
be replaced.
²Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as
required.
Fig. 105 CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 - CAMSAHFT POSITION SENSOR
2 - SCREW
Fig. 106 Crankshaft Position Sensor
1 - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
3 - CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
4 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER BLOCK
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 79
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKET(S (Continued)

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Valve Springs
Free Length (Approx.) 48.4 mm
(1.905 in.)
Nominal Force (Valve
Closed)338 N @ 38.0 mm
(75.98 lbs. @ 1.496 in.)
Nominal Force (Valve
Open)607 N @ 29.75 mm
(136 lbs. @ 1.172 in.)
Installed Height 38.00 mm
(1.496 in.)
Number of Coils 7.82
Wire Diameter 3.86 mm
(1.496 in.)
Oil Pump
Clearance Over Rotors
(Max.)0.10 mm
(0.004 in.)
Cover Out-of-Flat (Max.) 0.025 mm
(0.001 in.)
Inner Rotor Thickness
(Min.)9.40 mm
(0.370 in.)
Outer Rotor Thickness
(Min.)9.40 mm
(0.370 in.)
Outer Rotor Clearance
(Max.)0.039 mm
(0.015 in.)
Outer Rotor Diameter
(Min.)79.95 mm
(3.148 in.)
Tip Clearance Between
Rotors (Max.)0.20 mm
(0.008 in.)
Oil Pressure
At Curb Idle Speed* 25 kPa
(4 psi)
At 3000 rpm 170±550 kPa
(25±80 psi)
CAUTION:
*If pressure is ZERO at curb idle, DO NOT run engine
at 3000 rpm.SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE
DESCRIPTION N´mFt.
Lbs.In.
Lbs.
Balance Shaft Carrier to
BlockÐBolts54 40 Ð
Balance Shaft Gear
CoverÐDouble Ended
Fastener12 Ð 105
Balance Shaft SprocketÐ
Bolt28 Ð 250
Balance Shaft Chain
TensionerÐBolts12 Ð 105
Balance Shaft Carrier
CoverÐBolts12 Ð 105
Camshaft SprocketÐBolt 101 75 Ð
Connecting Rod
CapÐBolts54 +
1¤4
turn40
+1¤4
turnÐ
Crankshaft Main Bearing
Cap/Bedplate
ÐM8 Bolts 34 250
ÐM11 Bolts 41 +
1¤4
Turn30
+1¤4
TurnÐ
Crankshaft Damper 136 100 Ð
Cylinder HeadÐBolts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD -
INSTALLATION)
Cylinder Head CoverÐ
Bolts12 Ð 105
Flex Plate to Crankshaft 95 70 Ð
Flywheel Mounting Bolts 81 60 Ð
Engine Mount Bracket
RightÐBolts61 45 Ð
Engine MountingÐBolts (Refer to 9 ENGINE/
ENGINE MOUNTING)
Exhaust Manifold to
Cylinder HeadÐBolts23 Ð 200
Exhaust Manifold Heat
ShieldÐBolts12 Ð 105
Intake Manifold - Lower
ÐBolts28 Ð 250
Oil Filter 20 15 Ð
Oil PanÐBolts 12 Ð 105
Oil Pan DrainÐPlug 27 20 Ð
Oil Pump to BlockÐBolts 28 Ð 250
9s - 16 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

OPERATION
The crankshaft transfers force generated by com-
bustion within the cylinder to the flywheel or flex-
plate.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CRANKSHAFT END
PLAY
(1) Using Dial Indicator C-3339 and Mounting
Post L-4438, attach to front of engine, locating probe
perpendicular on nose of crankshaft (Fig. 40).
(2) Move crankshaft all the way to the rear of its
travel.
(3) Zero the dial indicator.
(4) Move crankshaft all the way to the front and
read the dial indicator. Refer to Engine Specifica-
tions.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Crankshaft can not be removed when engine
is in vehicle.
(1) Remove engine assembly from vehicle. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove flex plate and crankshaft rear oil seal.
(3) Mount engine on a repair stand.
(4) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(5) Remove the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)
(6) Remove the timing belt covers. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)(7) Remove the timing belt. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove the oil pump. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL)
(9) Remove balance shafts and housing assembly.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/BALANCE
SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(10) Remove all bedplate bolts from the engine
block (Fig. 41).
(11) Using a mallet gently tap the bedplate loose
from the engine block dowel pins.
CAUTION: Do not pry up on one side of the bed-
plate. Damage may occur to cylinder block to bed-
plate alignment and thrust bearing.
(12) Bedplate should be removed evenly from the
cylinder block dowel pins to prevent damage to the
dowel pins and thrust bearing.
(13) Lift out crankshaft from cylinder block. Do
not damage the main bearings or journals when
removing the crankshaft.
Fig. 39 Crankshaft - Typical
1 - MAIN BEARING JOURNALS
2 - COUNTER BALANCE WEIGHTS
Fig. 40 CHECKING CRANKSHAFT END PLAY
Fig. 41 Bedplate Bolt Tightenening Sequence
KJENGINE9s-33
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the fascia.
(2) Connect the electrical connectors.
²Side repeater lights, both sides, if equipped.
²Fascia to grille opening reinforcement.
(3) Install the six push pin fasteners into the grill
support.
(4) Install the four screws through the lower air
damn.
(5) Install new rivets attaching the air dam to the
wheelhouse splash shield.
(6) Install the front wheel opening flare moldings.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/WHEEL OPENING
FLARE MOLDING - INSTALLATION)
(7) Install the grille. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION)
REAR FASCIA
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wheel flares (rear). (Refer to 23 -
BODY/EXTERIOR/REAR WHEEL OPENING
FLARE MOLDINGS - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the rear lamp units. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
REAR LAMP UNIT - REMOVAL)(3) Remove the four side bolts. (Fig. 3)
(4) Remove the four bottom rivets.
(5) Remove the 3 bolts along the upper edge.
(6) Separate the side plastic retainers and remove
the fascia from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Fascia must be pushed completely forward
to allow the plastic retainers full engagement in
their respective slots.
(1) Install the fascia and insert the plastic retain-
ers.
(2) Install the three upper bolts.
(3) Install the four side bolts.
(4) Install four bottom rivets.
(5) Install the rear lamp units. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/REAR
LAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION)
(6) Install the rear half wheel opening flares.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/WHEEL OPENING
FLARE MOLDING - INSTALLATION)
Fig. 2 FASCIA INNER SUPPORT
1 - INNER SUPPORT CLIP
2 - SIDE REPEATER CONNECTOR (IF EQUIPPED)
3 - FASCIA ASSEMBLY
4 - FOG LAMP
Fig. 3 REAR FASCIA
1 - REAR FASCIA ASSEMBLY
2 - PLASTIC RETAINERS
3 - FASCIA SUPPORT BRACKET
4 - SIDE BOLTS
5 - RIVETS
6 - UPPER BOLTS
13 - 2 FRAMES & BUMPERSKJ
FRONT FASCIA (Continued)

STEERING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
STEERING
DESCRIPTION..........................1
OPERATION............................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER
STEERING SYSTEM....................1DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER
STEERING FLOW AND PRESSURE........3
COLUMN...............................5
GEAR.................................13
LINKAGE..............................16
PUMP.................................17
STEERING
DESCRIPTION
Power steering systems consist of:
²Steering column & Intermediate Shaft
²Rack and pinion steering gear
²Belt driven hydraulic steering pump
²Pump pressure, supply and return hoses
²Oil Cooler
OPERATION
The steering column intermediate shaft attaches
the steering column to the gear pinion. The rotation
of the pinion moves the gear rack from side-to-side.
This lateral action of the rack pushes and pulls the
tie rods to change the direction of the front wheels.
Power assist is provided by an engine mounted
hydraulic pump. The pump supplies hydraulic fluid
to the steering gear. All vehicles are equipped with
an oil cooler.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER STEERING SYSTEM
STEERING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound evident at a
standstill/parking, or when the steering is at the end of it's travel. Hiss is a high frequency noise similar to that
of a water tap being closed slowly. The noise is present in all valves that have a high velocity fluid passing through
an orifice. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance.
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OBJECTIONAL HISS OR
WHISTLE1. Steering intermediate shaft to dash panel
seal.1. Check and repair seal at dash
panel.
2. Noisy valve in power steering gear. 2. Replace steering gear.
1. Gear mounting bolts loose. 1. Tighten bolts to specification.
2. Loose or damaged suspension
components.2. Inspect and repair suspension.
3. Internal gear noise. 3. Replace steering gear.
4. Loose or damaged intermediate shaft or
column.4. Inspect and repair or replace.
MOAN Pressure hose in contact with other
components.Reposition hose.
CHIRP OR SQUEAL 1. Loose belt. 1. Adjust or replace.
KJSTEERING 19 - 1