2002 JEEP LIBERTY turn

(8) Tighten forcing screw to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.)
maximum to compress Belleville springs in clutch
packs (Fig. 38).
(9) With a feeler gauge remove thrust washers
from behind the pinion gears (Fig. 39).
(10) Insert Turning Bar 6960-2 into the pinion
mate shaft hole in the case (Fig. 40).(11) Loosen the Forcing Screw in small increments
until the clutch pack tension is relieved and the dif-
ferential case can be turned using Turning Bar.
(12) Rotate differential case until the pinion gears
can be removed.
(13) Remove pinion gears from differential case.
(14) Remove Forcing Screw and discs.
(15) Remove top side gear, clutch pack retainer
and clutch pack. Keep plates in order during removal
(Fig. 41).
Fig. 38 COMPRESS BELLEVILLE SPRING
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - FORCING SCREW
3 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
Fig. 39 PINION GEAR THRUST WASHER
1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - FEELER GAUGE
Fig. 40 PINION GEARS
1 - PINION GEARS
2 - TURNING BAR
Fig. 41 SIDE GEARS AND CLUTCH DISCS
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RETAINER
3 - SIDE GEAR AND CLUTCH DISC PACK
3 - 108 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK (Continued)

(16) Remove differential case from the fixture.
Remove side gear, clutch pack retainer and clutch
pack. Keep plates in order during removal.
CLEANING
Clean all components in cleaning solvent and dry
components with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect clutch pack plates for wear, scoring or dam-
age. Replace both clutch packs if any one component
in either pack is damaged. Inspect side and pinion
gears for cracks chips or damage and replace as nec-
essary. Inspect differential case and pinion shaft and
replace if worn or damaged.
ASSEMBLY
Lubricate each component with gear lubricant
before assembly.
NOTE: New Plates and discs with fiber coating (no
grooves or lines) must be presoaked in Friction
Modifier before assembly. Soak plates and discs for
a minimum of 20 minutes.
(1) Assemble the clutch discs into packs and
secure disc packs with retaining clips (Fig. 42).
(2) Install assembled clutch disc packs on the side
gear hubs.(3) Install clutch pack and side gear in the ring
gear side of the differential case (Fig. 43).Verify
clutch pack retaining clips are in position and
seated in the case pockets.
(4) Set differential case on Fixture 8138.
(5) Install lubricated Disc 8140 without the hole in
lower side gear (Fig. 44).
(6) Install the upper side gear and clutch disc pack
(Fig. 44).
(7) Hold assembly in position. Insert Disc 8140
with threaded hole into top side gear.
(8) Install Forcing Screw 6960-4 and tighten screw
to slightly compress clutch disc.
(9) Place pinion gears in position in side gears and
verify that the pinion mate shaft hole is aligned.
(10) Rotate case with Turning Bar 6960-2 until the
pinion mate shaft holes in pinion gears align with
holes in case. It may be necessary to slightly tighten
the forcing screw in order to install the pinion gears.
(11) Tighten forcing screw to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.)
maximum to compress the Belleville springs.
(12) Lubricate and install thrust washers behind
pinion gears and align washers with a small screw
driver. Insert mate shaft into each pinion gear to ver-
ify alignment.
(13) Remove forcing screw and discs.
Fig. 42 CLUTCH DISC PACK
1 - CLUTCH PACK
2 - RETAINER
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 43 CLUTCH PACK AND LOWER SIDE GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - LOWER SIDE GEAR AND CLUTCH PACK
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 109
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 3). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 3).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake line from the brake hose
inside the engine compartment by the front control
arm bolt (Fig. 4).
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt at the cali-
per.
(5) Remove the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove the hose.
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the brake line from the hose at the
body (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove the brake hose mounting bolt at the
top of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(5) Remove the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(6) Remove the two brake lines at the bottom of
the hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(7) Remove the mounting bolt for the brake hose
at the axle (Fig. 7).
(8) Remove the hose.
Fig. 3 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 4 INNER FENDER BRAKE LINE
1 - GROMMET
2 - BRAKE LINE
Fig. 5 FRONT BRAKE HOSE
1 - TOP OF FRONT BRAKE HOSE
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
3 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

OPERATION - REAR DRUM BRAKE
When the brake pedal is depressed hydraulic pres-
sure pushes the rear brake wheel cylinder pistons
outward. The wheel cylinder push rods then push the
brake shoes outward against the brake drum. When
the brake pedal is released return springs attached
to the brake shoes pull the shoes back to there orig-
inal position (Fig. 9).
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT BRAKE PADS
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain a small amount of fluid from the master
cylinder brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.(4) Bottom the caliper pistons into the caliper by
prying the caliper over.
(5) Remove the caliper mounting bolts.
(6) Remove the disc brake caliper from the mount.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(7) Remove the inboard and outboard pads.
REMOVAL - DRUM BRAKE SHOES
(1) Raise the vehicle and remove the rear wheels.
(2) Remove and discard the spring nuts securing
drums to wheel studs.
(3) Remove the brake drums. If drums prove diffi-
cult to remove, retract brake shoes. Remove the
access hole plug at the rear of backing plate and
back off adjuster screw with brake tool and screw-
driver.
(4) Clean the individual brake components, includ-
ing the support plate and wheel cylinder exterior,
with a find mist of water. Then wipe the brake com-
ponents clean with a dampened cloth.
(5) Remove the primary and secondary return
springs from anchor pin with the brake spring pliers.
(6) Remove the U-clip and washer securing
adjuster cable to the parking brake lever.
(7) Remove the hold-down springs, retainers and
pins with standard retaining spring tool.
(8) Remove the parking brake strut and cable
guide.
(9) Remove the adjuster lever, adjuster screw and
spring.
(10) Remove the adjuster cable.
(11) Remove the brake shoes.
(12) Disconnect the cable from the parking brake
lever and remove the lever ( if needed).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE PADS
(1) Install the inboard and outboard pads.
(2) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(3) Install the tire and wheel assembly. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
INSTALLATION - DRUM BRAKE SHOES
Bonded linings should be replaced when worn to a
thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 in.).
Fig. 9 BRAKE COMPONENTS
1 - SECONDARY SHOE
2 - SHOE GUIDE PLATE
3 - PRIMARY SHOE
4 - HORSE SHOE RETAINING CLIP
5 - PRIMARY RETURN SPRING
6 - PARK BRAKE STRUT
7 - HOLD DOWN SPRING AND RETAINERS
8 - SHOE RETURN SPRING
9 - ADJUSTER SCREW ASSEMBLY
10 - ADJUSTER LEVER
11 - ADJUSTER CABLE
12 - SECONDARY RETURN SPRING
13 - CABLE GUIDE
14 - WHEEL CYLINDER
15 - PARK BRAKE STRUT AND SPRING
16 - SUPPORT PLATE
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 11
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if
the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be
replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper.
Inspect the adjuster screw assembly. Replace the
assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged,
or the components are severely rusted or corroded.
Discard the brake springs and retainer components
if worn, distorted or collapsed. Also replace the
springs if a brake drag condition had occurred. Over-
heating will distort and weaken the springs.
Inspect the brake shoe contact pads on the support
plate, replace the support plate if any of the pads are
worn or rusted through. Also replace the plate if it is
bent or distorted.
(1) Clean support plate with brake cleaner.
(2) If new drums are being installed, remove pro-
tective coating with carburetor cleaner followed by
final rinse with brake cleaner.
(3) Clean and lubricate anchor pin with light coat
of Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(4) Apply Mopar multi-mileage grease to brake
shoe contact surfaces of support plate (Fig. 10).
(5) Lubricate the adjuster screw threads and pivot
with spray lube.
(6) Attach parking brake lever to secondary brake
shoe. Use new washer and U-clip to secure lever.
(7) Attach the parking brake cable to lever (if
removed).
(8) Install the brake shoes on support plate.
Secure shoes with new hold-down springs, pins and
retainers.
(9) Install the parking brake strut and spring.(10) Install the guide plate and adjuster cable on
anchor pin.
(11) Install the adjuster cable guide on the shoe.
(12) Install the primary and secondary return
springs.
(13) Lubricate and assemble adjuster screw.
(14) Install the adjuster screw, spring and lever
and connect to adjuster cable.
(15) Adjust the shoes to the drum (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE
PADS/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS).
(16) Install the brake drum.
(17) Install the wheel/tire assemblies and lower
vehicle (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(18) Verify firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear drum brakes are equipped with a self-ad-
justing mechanism. Under normal circumstances, the
only time adjustment is required is when the shoes
are replaced, removed for access to other parts, or
when one or both drums are replaced.
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is per-
formed with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
ADJUSTMENT WITH BRAKE GAUGE
(1) Be sure parking brakes are fully released.
(2) Raise rear of vehicle and remove wheels and
brake drums.
(3) Verify that left and right automatic adjuster
levers and cables are properly connected.
(4) Insert brake gauge in drum. Expand gauge
until gauge inner legs contact drum braking surface.
Then lock gauge in position (Fig. 11).
(5) Reverse gauge and install it on brake shoes.
Position gauge legs at shoe centers as shown (Fig.
12). If gauge does not fit (too loose/too tight), adjust
shoes.
(6) Pull shoe adjuster lever away from adjuster
screw star wheel.
(7) Turn adjuster screw star wheel (by hand) to
expand or retract brake shoes. Continue adjustment
until gauge outside legs are light drag-fit or 30 thou-
sands of an inch clearence on the shoes.
(8) Install brake drums and wheels and lower
vehicle.
(9) Drive vehicle and make one forward stop fol-
lowed by one reverse stop. Repeat procedure 8-10
times to operate automatic adjusters and equalize
adjustment.
Fig. 10 Shoe Contact Surfaces
1 - ANCHOR PIN
2 - SUPPORT PLATE
3 - SHOE CONTACT SURFACES
5 - 12 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE PADS / SHOES (Continued)

OPERATION
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper piston. The fluid pressure
is exerted equally and in all directions. This means
pressure exerted against the caliper piston and
within the caliper bore will be equal (Fig. 14).
Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted
directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bore forces the caliper to slide inward on
the mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard
brake shoe lining into contact with the outer surface
of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and
bring the vehicle to a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brake shoes do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from gettingbetween the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
15). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amount
is just enough to maintain contact between the pis-
ton and inboard brake shoe.
REMOVAL
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with suction gun.
(5) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt if replacing
caliper (Fig. 16).
(6) Remove the caliper mounting slide pin bolts
(Fig. 16).
(7) Remove the caliper from vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove brake shoes from caliper.
(2) Drain brake fluid out of caliper.
(3) Take a piece of wood and pad it with one-inch
thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in the out-
board shoe side of the caliper in front of the piston.
This will cushion and protect caliper piston during
removal (Fig. 17).
Fig. 14 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
Fig. 15 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

CLEANING
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or similar solvents. These products may leave a
residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 22). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper piston bore, new piston seal
and piston with clean brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of
bushing boots with silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper, then insert
bushing into boot and push bushing into place (Fig.
23).
(4) Install new piston seal into seal groove with
finger (Fig. 24).
(5) Install new dust boot on caliper piston and seat
boot in piston groove (Fig. 25).
(6) Press piston into caliper bore by hand, use a
turn and push motion to work piston into seal (Fig.
26).
(7) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(8) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C-4171 (Fig. 27).
(9) Replace caliper bleed screw if removed.
Fig. 20 PISTON SEAL REMOVAL - TYPICAL
1 - REMOVE SEAL WITH WOOD PENCIL OR SIMILAR TOOL
2 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 21 MOUNTING BOLT BUSHING AND BOOT -
TYPICAL
1 - CALIPER SLIDE BUSHING
2 - BOOT
Fig. 22 POLISHING PISTON BORE - TYPICAL
1 - SPECIAL HONE
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON BORE
5 - 16 BRAKES - BASEKJ
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)