2002 JEEP LIBERTY engine

BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Double walled
steel tubing is used to connect the master cylinder to
the major hydraulic braking components and then to
the flexible rubber hoses. Double inverted style and
ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE AND
HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect the hoses
whenever the brake system is serviced, at every
engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for
service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connec-
tions. Be sure brake line connections are properly
made (not cross threaded) and tightened to recom-
mended torque.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use a ISO brake flaring tool or
equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
Fig. 2 Inverted
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEKJ

(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 3). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 3).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake line from the brake hose
inside the engine compartment by the front control
arm bolt (Fig. 4).
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt at the cali-
per.
(5) Remove the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove the hose.
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the brake line from the hose at the
body (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove the brake hose mounting bolt at the
top of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(5) Remove the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(6) Remove the two brake lines at the bottom of
the hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(7) Remove the mounting bolt for the brake hose
at the axle (Fig. 7).
(8) Remove the hose.
Fig. 3 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 4 INNER FENDER BRAKE LINE
1 - GROMMET
2 - BRAKE LINE
Fig. 5 FRONT BRAKE HOSE
1 - TOP OF FRONT BRAKE HOSE
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
3 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 8).(3) Install the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper.
(4) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(5) Install the brake line to the brake hose inside
the engine compartment by the front control arm
bolt.
(6) Remove the prop rod from the brake pedal.
(7) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the brake hose at
the axle (Fig. 7).
(3) Install the two brake lines at the bottom of the
hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(4) Install the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(5) Install the brake hose mounting bolt at the top
of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(6) Install the brake line to the hose at the body
(Fig. 6).
(7) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(8) Remove the prop rod.
(9) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear brakes use a leading shoe (primary) and
trailing shoe (secondary) design (Right rear brake is
shown) (Fig. 9).
Fig. 6 BRAKE HOSE AT THE BODY
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - BRAKE LINE
4 - COIL SPRING
Fig. 7 BRAKE HOSE AT THE AXLE
1 - REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - VENT HOSE
4 - BRAKE LINES
5 - MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 8 BRAKE HOSE MOUNTED
1 - COIL SPRING
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - BRAKE HOSE
4 - FRONT OF THE UPPER CONTROL ARM
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The booster assembly consists of a housing divided
into separate chambers by two internal diaphragms.
The outer edge of each diaphragm is attached to the
booster housing. The diaphragms are connected to
the booster primary push rod.
Two push rods are used in the booster. The pri-
mary push rod connects the booster to the brake
pedal. The secondary push rod connects the booster
to the master cylinder to stroke the cylinder pistons.
OPERATION
The atmospheric inlet valve is opened and closed
by the primary push rod. Booster vacuum supply is
through a hose attached to an intake manifold fitting
at one end and to the booster check valve at the
other. The vacuum check valve in the booster housing
is a one-way device that prevents vacuum leak back.
Power assist is generated by utilizing the pressure
differential between normal atmospheric pressure
and a vacuum. The vacuum needed for booster oper-
ation is taken directly from the engine intake mani-
fold. The entry point for atmospheric pressure is
through a filter and inlet valve at the rear of the
housing (Fig. 33).
The chamber areas forward of the booster dia-
phragms are exposed to vacuum from the intake
manifold. The chamber areas to the rear of the dia-
phragms, are exposed to normal atmospheric pres-
sure of 101.3 kilopascals (14.7 pounds/square in.).Brake pedal application causes the primary push
rod to open the atmospheric inlet valve. This exposes
the area behind the diaphragms to atmospheric pres-
sure. The resulting pressure differential provides the
extra apply force for power assist.
The booster check valve, check valve grommet and
booster seals are serviceable.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 34).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch Hg (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
Fig. 32 BOOSTER PUSH ROD
1 - MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
2 - BRAKE BOOSTER
3 - CLIP
4 - BRAKE PEDAL
5 - BOOSTER ROD
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 21
PEDAL (Continued)

(6) Remove knee blocker under the steering colum-
n,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE
BLOCKER - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove retaining clip that secures booster
push rod to brake pedal (Fig. 36).(8) Remove nuts attaching booster to the dash
panel (Fig. 37).
(9) In engine compartment, slide booster studs out
of dash panel, tilt booster upward, and remove
booster from engine compartment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align and position booster on the dash panel.
(2) Install booster mounting nuts. Tighten nuts
just enough to hold booster in place.
(3) Slide booster push rod onto the brake pedal.
Then secure push rod to pedal pin with retaining
clip.
NOTE: Lubricate the pedal pin and bushing with
Mopar multi-mileage grease before installation.
Fig. 34 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 35 TYPICAL - VACUUM CHECK VALVE AND
SEAL
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
Fig. 36 BOOSTER PUSH ROD
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - BOOSTER ROD
Fig. 37 BOOSTER MOUNTING
1 - BRAKE BOOSTER
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 23
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 22.6 N´m
(200 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(7) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will
prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in
vacuum leak.
(8) Align and install master cylinder on the
booster studs. Install mounting nuts and tighten to
22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(9) Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve.
(10) Remount the HCU. Tighten bracket mounting
nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect and secure the brake lines to HCU or
junction block and master cylinder. Start all brake
line fittings by hand to avoid cross threading.
(12) Connect the wire to fluid level switch at the
bottom of the reservoir.
(13) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Verify proper brake operation before moving
vehicle.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder has a removable nylon reser-
voir. The cylinder body is made of aluminum and
contains a primary and secondary piston assembly.
The cylinder body including the piston assemblies
are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an internal
problem with the cylinder body, it must be replaced
as an assembly. The reservoir and grommets are the
only replaceable parts on the master cylinder.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 38).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 39).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise.
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEKJ
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container will absorb moisture from the air
and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
DRUM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE DRUM
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is indicated on the drum outer edge.
Generally, a drum can be machined to a maximum of
1.52 mm (0.060 in.) oversize. Always replace the
drum if machining would cause drum diameter to
exceed the size limit indicated on the drum.
BRAKE DRUM RUNOUT
Measure drum diameter and runout with an accu-
rate gauge. The most accurate method of measure-
ment involves mounting the drum in a brake lathe
and checking variation and runout with a dial indi-
cator.
Variations in drum diameter should not exceed
0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Drum runout should not exceed
0.20 mm (0.008 in.) out of round. Machine the drum
if runout or variation exceed these values. Replace
the drum if machining causes the drum to exceed the
maximum allowable diameter.
STANDARD PROCEDURES - BRAKE DRUM
MACHINING
The brake drums can be machined on a drum lathe
when necessary. Initial machining cuts should be lim-
ited to 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.) at a time as
heavier feed rates can produce taper and surface
variation. Final finish cuts of 0.025 to 0.038 mm(0.001 to 0.0015 in.) are recommended and will gen-
erally provide the best surface finish.
Be sure the drum is securely mounted in the lathe
before machining operations. A damper strap should
always be used around the drum to reduce vibration
and avoid chatter marks.
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is stamped or cast into the drum
outer edge.
CAUTION: Replace the drum if machining will cause
the drum to exceed the maximum allowable diame-
ter.
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 198 RBI AXLE
(1) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Remove the brake drum.
(3) Remove the brake shoes.
(4) Remove parking brake cable from parking
brake lever.
(5) Compress parking brake cable retainer tabs.
Then push retainer and cable through and out of
support plate.
(6) Disconnect brake line at wheel cylinder.
(7) Remove wheel cylinder from support plate,(Re-
fer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
WHEEL CYLINDERS - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove the four bolts attaching the support
plate to axle and remove the support plate with the
axle, bearing and seal.
(9) Remove axle shaft,(Refer to 3 - DIFFEREN-
TIAL & DRIVELINE/REAR AXLE/AXLE SHAFTS -
REMOVAL).
REMOVAL - 8 1/4 AXLE
(1) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Remove the brake drum.
(3) Install the brake pedal prop rod.
(4) Remove the brake shoes (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE PADS/SHOES
- REMOVAL).
(5) Remove parking brake cable from parking
brake lever.
(6) Compress parking brake cable retainer tabs.
Then push retainer and cable through and out of
support plate.
(7) Disconnect the brake line at wheel cylinder.
(8) Remove the wheel cylinder from the support
plate,(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHAN-
ICAL/WHEEL CYLINDERS - REMOVAL).
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 27
FLUID (Continued)

BRAKES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
REMOVAL - RHD........................1INSTALLATION - RHD.....................1
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
REMOVAL - RHD
(1) Remove the air box (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT -
REMOVAL).
(2) Relocate the cruise control servo to gain access
to the booster for removal.
(3) Remove the brake lines from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the master cylinder (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect vacuum hose from booster check
valve.
(6) Remove knee blocker under the steering colum-
n,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE
BLOCKER - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the brake light switch.(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove retaining clip that secures booster
push rod to brake pedal (Fig. 1).
(9) Remove nuts attaching booster to the dash
panel (Fig. 2).(10) In engine compartment, slide booster studs
out of dash panel, tilt booster upward, and remove
booster from engine compartment.
INSTALLATION - RHD
(1) Align and position booster on the dash panel.
(2) Install booster mounting nuts. Tighten nuts
just enough to hold booster in place.
(3) Slide booster push rod onto the brake pedal.
Then secure push rod to pedal pin with retaining
clip.
NOTE: Lubricate the pedal pin with Mopar multi-
mileage grease before installation.
(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 39 N´m (29
ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the brake light switch.
(6) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(7) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(8) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
Fig. 1 BOOSTER PUSH ROD
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - BOOSTER ROD
Fig. 2 BOOSTER MOUNTING
1 - BRAKE BOOSTER
KJBRAKES 5s - 1