2002 JEEP LIBERTY insid

STANDARD DIFFERENTIAL
During straight-ahead driving, the differential pin-
ion gears do not rotate on the pinion mate shaft. This
occurs because input torque applied to the gears is
divided and distributed equally between the two side
gears. As a result, the pinion gears revolve with the
pinion mate shaft but do not rotate around it (Fig. 1).
When turning corners, the outside wheel must
travel a greater distance than the inside wheel to
complete a turn. The difference must be compensated
for to prevent the tires from scuffing and skidding
through turns. To accomplish this, the differential
allows the axle shafts to turn at unequal speeds (Fig.
2). In this instance, the input torque applied to the
pinion gears is not divided equally. The pinion gears
now rotate around the pinion mate shaft in opposite
directions. This allows the side gear and axle shaft
attached to the outside wheel to rotate at a faster
speed.
TRAC-LOKTDIFFERENTIAL
This differentials clutches are engaged by two con-
current forces. The first being the preload force
exerted through Belleville spring washers within the
clutch packs. The second is the separating forces gen-
erated by the side gears as torque is applied through
the ring gear (Fig. 3).
This design provides the differential action needed
for turning corners and for driving straight ahead
during periods of unequal traction. When one wheel
looses traction, the clutch packs transfer additional
torque to the wheel having the most traction. This
differential resist wheel spin on bumpy roads and
provide more pulling power when one wheel looses
Fig. 1 Differential Operation - Straight Ahead Driving
1 - IN STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING EACH WHEEL ROTATES AT
100% OF CASE SPEED
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - PINION GEARS ROTATE WITH CASE
Fig. 2 Differential Operation - On Turns
1 - PINION GEARS ROTATE ON PINION SHAFT
Fig. 3 Trac-lokTLimited Slip Differential
1 - CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - DRIVE PINION
4 - PINION GEAR
5 - MATE SHAFT
6 - CLUTCH PACK
7 - SIDE GEAR
8 - CLUTCH PACK
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 87
REAR AXLE - 8 1/4 (Continued)

BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Double walled
steel tubing is used to connect the master cylinder to
the major hydraulic braking components and then to
the flexible rubber hoses. Double inverted style and
ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE AND
HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect the hoses
whenever the brake system is serviced, at every
engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for
service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connec-
tions. Be sure brake line connections are properly
made (not cross threaded) and tightened to recom-
mended torque.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use a ISO brake flaring tool or
equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
Fig. 2 Inverted
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEKJ

(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 3). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 3).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake line from the brake hose
inside the engine compartment by the front control
arm bolt (Fig. 4).
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt at the cali-
per.
(5) Remove the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove the hose.
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the brake line from the hose at the
body (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove the brake hose mounting bolt at the
top of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(5) Remove the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(6) Remove the two brake lines at the bottom of
the hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(7) Remove the mounting bolt for the brake hose
at the axle (Fig. 7).
(8) Remove the hose.
Fig. 3 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 4 INNER FENDER BRAKE LINE
1 - GROMMET
2 - BRAKE LINE
Fig. 5 FRONT BRAKE HOSE
1 - TOP OF FRONT BRAKE HOSE
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
3 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 8).(3) Install the brake hose banjo bolt at the caliper.
(4) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(5) Install the brake line to the brake hose inside
the engine compartment by the front control arm
bolt.
(6) Remove the prop rod from the brake pedal.
(7) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install the hose.
(2) Install the mounting bolt for the brake hose at
the axle (Fig. 7).
(3) Install the two brake lines at the bottom of the
hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(4) Install the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(5) Install the brake hose mounting bolt at the top
of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(6) Install the brake line to the hose at the body
(Fig. 6).
(7) Lower the vehicle and remove the support.
(8) Remove the prop rod.
(9) Bleed the brake system (Refer to 5 - BRAKES -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
BRAKE PADS / SHOES
DESCRIPTION - REAR DRUM BRAKE
The rear brakes use a leading shoe (primary) and
trailing shoe (secondary) design (Right rear brake is
shown) (Fig. 9).
Fig. 6 BRAKE HOSE AT THE BODY
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - BRAKE LINE
4 - COIL SPRING
Fig. 7 BRAKE HOSE AT THE AXLE
1 - REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - BRAKE HOSE
3 - VENT HOSE
4 - BRAKE LINES
5 - MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 8 BRAKE HOSE MOUNTED
1 - COIL SPRING
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - BRAKE HOSE
4 - FRONT OF THE UPPER CONTROL ARM
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until radiator
upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially
available black light tool at components to be
checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause
additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 3).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from pres-
sure bottle and check coolant level. Push down on
cap to disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of
filler neck and examine lower inside sealing seat fornicks, cracks, paint, and dirt. Inspect radiator-to-
reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions.
Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not
obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 4).
Operate tester pump to apply 110 kPa (16 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
Fig. 3 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 4 Pressure Testing Cooling System - Typical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
7 - 4 COOLINGKJ
COOLING (Continued)

The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 2).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from pres-
sure bottle and check coolant level. Push down on
cap to disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of
filler neck and examine lower inside sealing seat for
nicks, cracks, paint, and dirt. Inspect radiator-to-
reserve/overflow tank hose for internal obstructions.
Insert a wire through the hose to be sure it is not
obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 3).
Operate tester pump to apply 110 kPa (16 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
Fig. 2 Leak Detection Using Black Light - Typical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
Fig. 3 Pressure Testing Cooling System - Typical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
KJCOOLING - 2.4L7s-3
COOLING - 2.4L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AMPLIFIER
CHOKE AND RELAY
Any diagnosis of the Audio system should
begin with the use of the DRB diagnostic tool.
For information on the use of the DRB, refer to
the appropriate Diagnostic Service Manual.
The amplifier choke and relay is used to switch
power to the individual speaker amplifiers used with
the premium speaker package. The amplifier choke
and relay is serviced only as a unit. If all of the
speakers are inoperative the amplifier choke and
relay should be inspected. Before replacement, make
the following inspections of the amplifier choke and
relay circuits. For complete circuit diagrams, refer to
the appropriate wiring information. The wiring infor-
mation includes wiring diagrams, proper wire and
connector repair procedures, details of wire harness
routing and retention, connector pin-out information
and location views for the various wire harness con-
nectors, splices and grounds.
(1)
Check the fused B(+) fuse in the junction block. If
OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse
in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK,
repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the battery as
required.
(3) Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness
connector from the amplifier choke and relay. Check
for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of
the instrument panel wire harness connector for the
amplifier choke and relay. If OK, go to Step 4. If not
OK, repair the open fused B(+) circuit to the junction
block fuse as required.
(4) Probe the ground circuit cavity of the instru-
ment panel wire harness connector for the amplifier
choke and relay. Check for continuity to a good
ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step
5. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(5) Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position
and turn the radio ON. Check for battery voltage at
the radio 12-volt output circuit cavity of the instru-
ment panel wire harness connector for the amplifier
choke and relay. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK,
repair the open radio 12-volt output circuit to the
radio as required.
(6) Turn the radio and ignition switches to the
OFF position. Reconnect the instrument panel wire
harness connector to the amplifier choke and relay.
Check for battery voltage at the amplified speaker
(+) circuit cavity of the instrument panel wire har-
ness connector for the amplifier choke and relay.
There should be zero volts. Turn the ignition and
radio switches to the ON position. There should now
be battery voltage. If OK, repair the open amplified
speaker (+) circuits to the speaker-mounted amplifi-ers as required. If not OK, replace the faulty ampli-
fier choke and relay.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove knee blocker cover and knee blocker.
(3) Disconnect the electrical harness connector
from the amplifier choke and relay (Fig. 1).
(4) Remove mounting screws and amplifier choke
and relay.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the amplifier choke and relay.
(2) Install the mounting screws.
(3) Connect the electrical harness connector.
(4) Install knee blocker cover and knee blocker.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable.
ANTENNA BODY & CABLE
DESCRIPTION
The antenna body and cable is secured below the
fender panel by the antenna cap nut through a
mounting hole in the side of the right front fender.
The primary coaxial antenna cable is then routed
beneath the fender sheet metal and through a entry
hole in the right cowl side panel into the interior of
the vehicle. Inside the vehicle, the primary coaxial
cable is connected to a secondary instrument panel
antenna coaxial cable with an in-line connector that
is located behind the right kick panel. The secondary
coaxial cable is then routed behind the instrument
panel to the back of the radio.
Fig. 1 RADIO CHOKE
1 - RADIO CHOKE
2 - MOUNTING SCREWS
8A - 4 AUDIOKJ
AMPLIFIER CHOKE AND RELAY (Continued)

battery charging should only be performed when
absolutely necessary due to time restraints. A battery
is fully-charged when:
²All of the battery cells are gassing freely during
battery charging.
²A green color is visible in the sight glass of the
battery built-in test indicator.
²Three hydrometer tests, taken at one-hour inter-
vals, indicate no increase in the temperature-cor-
rected specific gravity of the battery electrolyte.
²Open-circuit voltage of the battery is 12.65 volts
or above.
WARNING: NEVER EXCEED TWENTY AMPERES
WHEN CHARGING A COLD (-1É C [30É F] OR
LOWER) BATTERY. THE BATTERY MAY ARC INTER-
NALLY AND EXPLODE. PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR
VEHICLE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.
CAUTION: Always disconnect and isolate the bat-
tery negative cable before charging a battery. Do
not exceed sixteen volts while charging a battery.
Damage to the vehicle electrical system compo-
nents may result.
CAUTION: Battery electrolyte will bubble inside the
battery case during normal battery charging. Elec-
trolyte boiling or being discharged from the battery
vents indicates a battery overcharging condition.
Immediately reduce the charging rate or turn off the
charger to evaluate the battery condition. Damage
to the battery may result from overcharging.
CAUTION: The battery should not be hot to the
touch. If the battery feels hot to the touch, turn off
the charger and let the battery cool before continu-
ing the charging operation. Damage to the battery
may result.
NOTE: Models equipped with the diesel engine
option are equipped with two 12-volt batteries, con-
nected in parallel (positive-to-positive and negative-
to-negative). In order to ensure proper charging of
each battery, these batteries MUST be disconnected
from each other, as well as from the vehicle electri-
cal system, while being charged.
Some battery chargers are equipped with polarity-
sensing circuitry. This circuitry protects the battery
charger and the battery from being damaged if they
are improperly connected. If the battery state-of-
charge is too low for the polarity-sensing circuitry to
detect, the battery charger will not operate. This
makes it appear that the battery will not acceptcharging current. See the instructions provided by
the manufacturer of the battery charger for details
on how to bypass the polarity-sensing circuitry.
After the battery has been charged to 12.4 volts or
greater, perform a load test to determine the battery
cranking capacity. Refer to Standard Procedures for
the proper battery load test procedures. If the battery
will endure a load test, return the battery to service.
If the battery will not endure a load test, it is faulty
and must be replaced.
Clean and inspect the battery hold downs, tray,
terminals, posts, and top before completing battery
service. Refer to Battery System Cleaning for the
proper battery system cleaning procedures, and Bat-
tery System Inspection for the proper battery system
inspection procedures.
CHARGING A COMPLETELY DISCHARGED
BATTERY
The following procedure should be used to recharge
a completely discharged battery. Unless this proce-
dure is properly followed, a good battery may be
needlessly replaced.
(1) Measure the voltage at the battery posts with a
voltmeter, accurate to 1/10 (0.10) volt (Fig. 6). If the
reading is below ten volts, the battery charging cur-
rent will be low. It could take some time before the
battery accepts a current greater than a few milliam-
peres. Such low current may not be detectable on the
ammeters built into many battery chargers.
(2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Connect the battery charger leads. Some bat-
tery chargers are equipped with polarity-sensing cir-
cuitry. This circuitry protects the battery charger and
the battery from being damaged if they are improp-
erly connected. If the battery state-of-charge is too
low for the polarity-sensing circuitry to detect, the
battery charger will not operate. This makes it
appear that the battery will not accept charging cur-
rent. See the instructions provided by the manufac-
Fig. 6 Voltmeter - Typical
KJBATTERY SYSTEM 8F - 9
BATTERY (Continued)