2002 JEEP LIBERTY transmission

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block
is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To
provide high rigidity and improved NVH an
enhanced compacted graphite bedplate (Fig. 31) is
bolted to the block. The block design allows coolant
flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal
coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is
included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honingoil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 32).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Fig. 31 CYLINDER BLOCK BEDPLATE
1 - Cylinder Block Bedplate
2 - Crankshaft Position Sensor
3 - Crankshaft Main Bearing Caps
Fig. 32 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 39

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506 (Fig. 48), remove the
crankshaft rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the magnetic seal guide Special Tool
8349±2 (Fig. 49) onto the crankshaft rear face. Then
position the crankshaft rear oil seal onto the guide.(2) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle (Fig. 50),
with a hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to
tap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(3) Install the flexplate.
(4) Install the transmission.
Fig. 48 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Removal
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8506
Fig. 49 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Guide Special Tool
8349±2 and Oil
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349±2 GUIDE
Fig. 50 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349±1 INSTALLER
3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171 HANDLE
9 - 48 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ

FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove the bolts and flexplate.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the flexplate onto the crankshaft and
install the bolts hand tight.
(2) Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N´m
(70 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Fig. 51).
(3) Install the transmission.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark con-
necting rods as damage may result, instead use ink
or a scratch awl.
The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum
alloy. The top ring groove is coated with a anti-seize
coating. The connecting rods are made of forged pow-
dered metal, with a ªfractured capº design. A full
floating piston pin is used to attach the piston to the
connecting rod (Fig. 52).
1 Connecting Rod
2 Piston
3 Piston Pin
4 Oil Slinger Slot
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD BEARING - FITTING
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs. Check the bearings for normal
wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and pitting.
Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of
scoring, nicks and burrs.
Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause
abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder
walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft con-
necting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to
any of these components indicate the probability of a
misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod
alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted con-
necting rods.
(1) Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
(2) Lubricate the upper bearing insert and install
in connecting rod.
(3) Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins
Special Tool 8507 to install the rod and piston assem-
blies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must face front
of the engine. The ªFº's near the piston wrist pin
bore should point to the front of the engine.
(4) Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing
cap. The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plas-
tigage across full width of the lower insert at the cen-
ter of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in
use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
(5) Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the
journal and tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
Fig. 51 Flexplate Tightening Sequence
1 - FLEXPLATE
Fig. 52 PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLY
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 49

VIBRATION DAMPER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud
lower right hand corner.
(3) Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
(4) Remove damper using Special Tools 8513
Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller (Fig. 62).
Fig. 59 Side RailÐInstallation
1 - SIDE RAIL END
Fig. 60 Upper and Intermediate RingsÐInstallation
Fig. 61 Piston Ring End Gap Position
1 - SIDE RAIL UPPER
2 - NO. 1 RING GAP
3 - PISTON PIN
4 - SIDE RAIL LOWER
5 - NO. 2 RING GAP AND SPACER EXPANDER GAP
Fig. 62 Crankshaft DamperÐRemoval
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8513 INSERT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 1026
9 - 54 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
PISTON RINGS (Continued)

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: To prevent severe damage to the Crank-
shaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512, thoroughly
clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose
before installing Damper.
(1) Align crankshaft damper slot with key in
crankshaft. Slide damper onto crankshaft slightly.
CAUTION: Special Tool 8512A, is assembled in a
specific sequence. Failure to assemble this tool in
this sequence can result in tool failure and severe
damage to either the tool or the crankshaft.
(2) Assemble Special Tool 8512±A as follows, The
nut is threaded onto the shaft first. Then the roller
bearing is placed onto the threaded rod (The hard-
ened bearing surface of the bearingMUSTface the
nut). Then the hardened washer slides onto the
threaded rod (Fig. 63). Once assembled coat the
threaded rod's threads with MopartNickel Anti-
Seize or (Loctite No. 771).
(3) Using Special Tool 8512A, press damper onto
crankshaft (Fig. 64).
(4) Install then tighten crankshaft damper bolt to
175 N´m (130 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) Connect negative cable to battery.
STRUCTURAL COVER
DESCRIPTION
The structural dust cover is made of die cast alu-
minum and joins the lower half of the transmission
bell housing to the engine bedplate.
OPERATION
The structural cover provides additional power-
train stiffness and reduces noise and vibration.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the bolts retaining structural cover
(Fig. 65).
(3) Remove the structural cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The structural cover must be installed as
described in the following steps. Failure to do so
will cause severe damage to the cover.
(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
(2) Install all bolts retaining the cover-to-engine.
DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
(3) Install the cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT
tighten at this time.
Fig. 63 Proper Assembly Method for Special Tool
8512±A
1 - BEARING
2 - NUT
3 - THREADED ROD
4 - BEARING HARDENED SURFACE (FACING NUT)
5 - HARDENED WASHER
Fig. 64 Crankshaft Damper Installation
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512A
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 55
VIBRATION DAMPER (Continued)

CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly
against both the engine and the transmission bell
housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do
so may cause damage to the cover.
(4) Starting with the two rear cover-to-engine
bolts, tighten bolts (1) (Fig. 66) to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.),
then tighten bolts (2) (Fig. 66) and (3) to 54 N´m ( 40
ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
FRONT MOUNT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
CAUTION: Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud before raising engine. Failure to do so may
cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud.
(2) Remove the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM for procedure.
(3) Remove the engine oil filter.
(4) Support the engine with a suitable jack and a
block of wood across the full width of the engine oil
pan.
(5) Remove the four (4) cylinder block-to-insulator
mount bolts and the nut from the engine insulator
mount through bolt.
(6) Using the jack, raise the engine high enough to
remove the engine insulator mount through bolt and
the insulator mount (Fig. 67) and (Fig. 68).
Fig. 65 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
Fig. 66 Structural Cover
1 - BOLT
2 - BOLT
3 - BOLT
Fig. 67 Engine Insulator Mount 3.7 Left
1 -MOUNT
2 - NUT
3 - WIRE RETAINER
4 - FASTENER
5 - BOLT
6 - THRU BOLT
9 - 56 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
STRUCTURAL COVER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Position the insulator mount and install the
insulator mount through bolt.
(2) Lower the engine until the cylinder block-to-in-
sulator mount bolts can be installed.
(3) Remove the jack and block of wood.
(4) Torque the cylinder block-to-insulator mount
bolts to 61 N´m ( 45 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install and torque the through bolt retaining
nut to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the fan blade, fan clutch and fan
shroud.
REAR MOUNT
REMOVAL
NOTE: A resilient rubber cushion supports the
transmission at the rear between the transmission
extension housing and the rear support crossmem-
ber or skid plate.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle and support the transmission.
(3) Remove the nuts holding the support cushion
to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
²Remove the support cushion nuts and remove
the cushion.
²Remove the transmission support bracket bolts
and remove the bracket from the transmission.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
²Remove the support cushion bolts and remove
the cushion and the support bracket from the trans-
mission (4WD) or from the adaptor bracket (2WD).
²On 2WD vehicles, remove the bolts holding the
transmission support adaptor bracket to the trans-
mission. Remove the adaptor bracket.
INSTALLATION
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
(1) Install the transmission support bracket to the
transmission. Install the bolts and tighten to 46 N´m
(34 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the support cushion to the support
bracket. Install the nuts and tighten to 75 N´m (55
ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Position the crossmember onto the support
cushion studs. Install the stud nuts and tighten to 22
N´m (192 in. lbs) torque.
(4) Install crossmember-to-sill bolts and tighten to
41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission support.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
(1) On 2WD vehicles, position the transmission
support adaptor bracket to the transmission. Install
the bolts and tighten to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position the transmission support bracket and
support cushion to the adaptor bracket (2WD) or the
transmission (4WD). Install the bolts and tighten to
75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Position the crossmember onto the support
cushion studs. Install the stud nuts and tighten to 22
N´m (192 in. lbs) torque.
(4) Install crossmember-to-sill bolts and tighten to
41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission support.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Connect negative cable to battery.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
The lubrication system is a full flow filtration pres-
sure feed type.
Fig. 68 Engine Insulator Mount 3.7 Right
1 - MOUNT
2 - THRU BOLT
3 - BOLT
4 - NUT
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 57
FRONT MOUNT (Continued)

(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gage. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder
pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
9s - 4 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)