2002 JEEP LIBERTY evi c

INSTALLATION
(1) Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary
chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush
with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool,
release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against
spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet
device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner
body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on
front of tensioner (Fig. 107). Slowly open vise to
transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
(2) Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump
and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner
bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply
MopartLock N, Seal to torxtbolt, tighten bolt to 28
N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: The silver bolts retain the guides to the
cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides
to the engine block.
(4) Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(5) Install left side chain tensioner arm. Apply
MopartLock N, Seal to torxtbolt, tighten bolt to 28
N´m (250 in. lbs.).(6) Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the
bolts to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(7) Install both secondary chains onto the idler
sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary
chains to be visible through the two lower openings
on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once
the secondary timing chains are installed, position
special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installa-
tion.
(8) Align primary chain double plated links with
the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
Align the primary chain single plated link with the
timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
(9) Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean
engine oil.
NOTE: The idler sprocket must be timed to the
counterbalance shaft drive gear before the idler
sprocket is fully seated.
(10) Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and
idler sprocket as an assembly (Fig. 108). After guid-
ing both secondary chains through the block and cyl-
inder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap
or the equivalent, This will maintain tension on
chains to aid in installation. Align the timing mark
on the idler sprocket to the timing mark on the coun-
terbalance shaft drive gear, then seat idler sprocket
fully (Fig. 109). Before installing idler sprocket bolt,
lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket
assembly retaining bolt to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 107 Resetting Secondary Chain Tensioners
1 - VISE
2 - INSERT LOCK PIN
3 - RATCHET PAWL
4 - RATCHET
5 - PISTON
Fig. 108 Installing Idler Gear, Primary and
Secondary Timing Chains
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8429
2 - PRIMARY CHAIN IDLER SPROCKET
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
9 - 80 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKET(S (Continued)

(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gage. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder
pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
9s - 4 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50±70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD
(1) Perform fuel system pressure release procedure
before attempting any repairs.(Refer to 14 -FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - SPECIFICA-
TIONS)
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(3) Drain cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(4) Remove air filter housing and inlet tube.
(5) Remove intake manifold.
(6) Remove heater tube support bracket from cyl-
inder head.
(7) Disconnect radiator upper and heater supply
hoses from water outlet connections.
(8) Remove accessory drive belts. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(9) Raise vehicle and remove exhaust pipe from
manifold.
(10) Remove power steering pump and set aside.
Do not disconnect lines.
(11) Remove accessory drive bracket
(12) Remove ignition coil and wires from engine.
(13) Disconnect cam sensor and fuel injector wir-
ing connectors.
(14) Remove timing belt and camshaft sprockets.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)
(15) Remove timing belt idler pulley and rear tim-
ing belt cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIM-
ING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) -
REMOVAL)
(16) Remove cylinder head cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(17) Remove camshafts (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/CAMSHAFT(S) - REMOVAL).
NOTE: Identify rocker arm position to ensure cor-
rect re-installation in original position, if reused.
(18) Remove rocker arms. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARMS - REMOVAL).
(19) Remove cylinder head bolts in REVERSE
sequence of tightening.
(20) Remove cylinder head from engine block.
(21) Inspect and clean cylinder head. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSPECTION) (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - CLEANING)
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
9s - 20 ENGINEKJ
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

INSPECTION
ENGINE BLOCK
(1) Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all
core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
(2) If new core plugs are to be installed, (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE
CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS).
(3) Examine block and cylinder bores for cracks or
fractures.
(4) Check block deck surfaces for flatness. Deck
surface must be within service limit of 0.1 mm (0.004
in.).
CYLINDER BORE
NOTE: The cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-
round and taper with Tool C119 or equivalent (Fig.
37) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). If
the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the
cylinder block should be replaced, and new pistons
and rings fitted.
Measure the cylinder bore at three levels in direc-
tions A and B (Fig. 37). Top measurement should be
10 mm (3/8 in.) down and bottom measurement
should be 10 mm (3/8 in.) up from bottom of bore.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE
CONNECTING ROD - FITTING
(1) For measuring connecting rod bearing clear-
ance procedure and use of Plastigage(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE). For bearing
clearance refer to Engine Specifications. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS)
NOTE: The rod bearing bolts should not be reused.
(2) Before installing theNEWbolts the threads
should be oiled with clean engine oil.
(3) Install each bolt finger tight then alternately
torque each bolt to assemble the cap properly.
(4) Tighten the bolts to 27 N´m PLUS 1/4 turn (20
ft. lbs. PLUS 1/4 turn)Do not use a torque
wrench for last step.
(5) Using a feeler gauge, check connecting rod side
clearance (Fig. 38). Refer to clearance specifications
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft is made of nodular cast iron and
includes five main bearing journals and four connect-
ing rod journals (Fig. 39). The number three journal
is the location for the thrust bearing. The mains and
connecting rod journals have undercut fillet radiuses
that are rolled for added strength. To optimize bear-
ing loading, eight counterweights are used.
Fig. 37 Checking Cylinder Bore Size
Fig. 38 Connecting Rod Side Clearance
9s - 32 ENGINEKJ
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

(6) Install oil pressure switch and connector. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PRESSURE
SENSOR/SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK
The best time to check engine oil level is after it
has sat overnight, or if the engine has been running,
allow the engine to be shut off for at least 5 minutes
before checking oil level.
Checking the oil while the vehicle is on level
ground will improve the accuracy of the oil level
reading. Remove dipstick and observe oil level. Add
oil only when the level is at or below the ADD mark
(Fig. 78).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL AND
FILTER CHANGE
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in the Maintenance Schedule. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/MAINTE-
NANCE SCHEDULES - DESCRIPTION)
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY. CONTACT YOUR DEALER OR GOVERN-
MENT AGENCY FOR LOCATION OF COLLECTION
CENTER IN YOUR AREA.
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.(2) Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
Refer to Hoisting and Jacking Recommendations.
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOIST-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug and
gasket if damaged.
(6) Remove oil filter. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL)
(7) Install and tighten drain plug in crankcase.
(8) Install new oil filter. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION)
(9) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type and amount of engine oil. (Refer to LUBRICA-
TION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION)
(10) Install oil fill cap.
(11) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(12) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
NOTE: Care should be exercised when disposing
used engine oil after it has been drained from a
vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING listed above.
OIL FILTER
DESCRIPTION
The engine oil filter is a high quality full-flow, dis-
posable type. Replace the oil filter with a Mopartor
the equivalent.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Position an oil collecting container under oil fil-
ter location.
CAUTION: When servicing the oil filter avoid
deforming the filter can by installing the remove/in-
stall tool band strap against the can to base lock
seam. The lock seam joining the can to the base is
reinforced by the base plate.
(3) Using a suitable filter wrench, turn oil filter
counterclockwise to remove (Fig. 79).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean and check filter mounting surface. The
surface must be smooth, flat and free of debris or
pieces of gasket.
(2) Lubricate new oil filter gasket with clean
engine oil.
Fig. 78 Oil Level
1 - ENGINE OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK
KJENGINE9s-47
LUBRICATION (Continued)

SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
ENGINE CRADLE CROSSMEMBER INNER RAIL BOLTS 47 35 Ð
ENGINE CRADLE CROSSMEMBER MOUNTING BOLTS 122 90 Ð
ENGINE MOUNT THROUGH BOLTS/NUTS 88 65 Ð
FRONT SKID PLATE BOLTS 61 45 Ð
FRONT TOW HOOK NUTS/BOLT 61 45 Ð
FUEL TANK SKID PLATE 88 65 Ð
REAR CROSSMEMBER BOLTS 47 35 Ð
REAR TOW HOOK BOLTS 88 65 Ð
TRAILER HITCH BOLTS 88 65 Ð
TRANSFER CASE SKID PLATE BOLTS 34 25 Ð
TRANSMISSION MOUNT THROUGH BOLT/NUT 88 65 Ð
FRONT SKID PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the skid plate bolts and remove the
skid plate. (Fig. 7)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the skid plate.
(2) Install the bolts and tighten to 61 N´m (45 ft.
lbs.).
ENGINE CRADLE
CROSSMEMBER
REMOVAL
(1) Install a suitable engine support tool.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the lower control arms. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM -
REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the sway bar. (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/STABILIZER BAR - REMOVAL)
(5) Remove the front axle, if equipped. (Refer to 3 -
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE -
REMOVAL)
(6) Remove the power steering rack. (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/GEAR - REMOVAL)
(7) Loosen the engine mount through bolts.
(8) Support the engine cradle with a suitable lift-
ing device.
(9) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
location of the engine support cradle.
(10) Remove the engine cradle bolts and remove
the engine cradle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Using a suitable lifting device raise the engine
cradle into the vehicle while lining up the engine
mount through bolts.
Fig. 7 SKID PLATE
1 - SKID PLATE
2 - BOLTS (4)
13 - 6 FRAMES & BUMPERSKJ
FRAME (Continued)

(3) Align the engine cradle to the marks made dur-
ing removal and install the mounting and inner rail
bolts.
(4) Tighten the mounting bolts to 122 N´m (90 ft.
lbs.).
(5) Tighten the inner rail bolts to 47 N´m (35 ft.
lbs.).
(6) Tighten the engine mount through bolts to 88
N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the power steering rack. (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/GEAR - INSTALLATION)
(8) Install the front axle, if equipped. (Refer to 3 -
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE -
INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the stabilizer bar. (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/STABILIZER BAR - INSTALLA-
TION)
(10) Install the lower control arms. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM -
INSTALLATION)
(11) Lower the vehicle and remove the engine sup-
port tool.
TRANSFER CASE SKID PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the bolts and remove the skid plate.
(Fig. 8)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the skid plate.
(2) Install the bolts and tighten to 34 N´m (25 ft.
lbs.).
REAR CROSSMEMBER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Support the transmission with a suitable lifting
device.
(3) Remove the transmission mount through bolt.
(4) Remove the crossmember bolts and remove the
crossmember. (Fig. 9)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the crossmember and install the bolts.
(2) Tighten the bolts to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.)
(3) Install transmission mount through bolt and
tighten to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 8 SKID PLATE
1 - SKID PLATE
2 - BOLTS
Fig. 9 CROSS MEMBER
1 - CROSSMEMBER
2 - BOLTS
KJFRAMES & BUMPERS 13 - 7
ENGINE CRADLE CROSSMEMBER (Continued)

FRONT TOW HOOK
REMOVAL
NOTE: Front fascia must be removed to replace the
stud plate. (Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/
BUMPERS/FRONT FASCIA - REMOVAL)
(1) Remove the nuts and bolt and remove the tow
eye/hook. (Fig. 10)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the stud plate if previously removed.
(2) Install the tow eye/hook.
(3) Install the nuts and bolt and tighten to 61 N´m
(45 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the front fascia if the stud plate was
replaced. (Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/
BUMPERS/FRONT FASCIA - INSTALLATION)
REAR TOW HOOK
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the bolts and remove the tow hook/eye.
(Fig. 11)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the tow hook/eye.
(2) Install the bolts and tighten to 88 N´m (65 ft.
lbs.).
Fig. 10 TOW HOOKS/EYE
1 - STUD PLATE
2 - U-NUT
3 - BOLTS
4 - NUTS
5 - TOW HOOK
6-TOWEYEFig. 11 TOW HOOK/EYE
1 - U-NUT
2-TOWEYE
3 - BOLTS
4 - TOW HOOK
13 - 8 FRAMES & BUMPERSKJ