2002 CHRYSLER CARAVAN light

tion. The IOD fuse is a 15 ampere blade-type car-
tridge fuse and, when removed, it is stored in a fuse
cavity adjacent to the washer fuse within the IPM.
OPERATION
The term ignition-off draw identifies a normal con-
dition where power is being drained from the battery
with the ignition switch in the Off position. The IOD
fuse feeds the memory and sleep mode functions for
some of the electronic modules in the vehicle as well
as various other accessories that require battery cur-
rent when the ignition switch is in the Off position,
including the clock. The only reason the IOD fuse is
removed is to reduce the normal IOD of the vehicle
electrical system during new vehicle transportation
and pre-delivery storage to reduce battery depletion,
while still allowing vehicle operation so that the
vehicle can be loaded, unloaded and moved as needed
by both vehicle transportation company and dealer
personnel.
The IOD fuse is removed from the IPM fuse cavity
when the vehicle is shipped from the assembly plant.
Dealer personnel must install the IOD fuse when the
vehicle is being prepared for delivery in order to
restore full electrical system operation. Once the
vehicle is prepared for delivery, the IOD function of
this fuse becomes transparent and the fuse that has
been assigned the IOD designation becomes only
another Fused B(+) circuit fuse. The IOD fuse serves
no useful purpose to the dealer technician in the ser-
vice or diagnosis of any vehicle system or condition,
other than the same purpose as that of any other
standard circuit protection device.
The IOD fuse can be used by the vehicle owner as
a convenient means of reducing battery depletion
when a vehicle is to be stored for periods not to
exceed about thirty days. However, it must be
remembered that removing the IOD fuse will not
eliminate IOD, but only reduce this normal condition.
If a vehicle will be stored for more than about thirty
days, the battery negative cable should be discon-
nected to eliminate normal IOD; and, the battery
should be tested and recharged at regular intervals
during the vehicle storage period to prevent the bat-
tery from becoming discharged or damaged. Refer to
Battery Systemfor additional service information.
REMOVAL
(1) Turn the ignition switch to the Off position.
(2) Unlatch and open the cover of the intelligent
power module.
(3) Remove the IOD fuse from fuse location
markedIODof the Integrated Power Module (IPM).
(4) Store the removed IOD fuse by installing it in
the unused fuse storage markedSPAREof the IPM.
(5) Close and latch the IPM.
INSTALLATION
(1) Be certain the ignition switch is in the Off posi-
tion.
(2) Unlatch and open the cover of the Integrated
Power Module (IPM).
(3) Remove the stored 15 amp IOD fuse from fuse
storage markedSPAREof the IPM.
(4) Use a thumb to press the IOD fuse firmly down
into IPM fuse cavity markedIOD.
(5) Close and latch the IPM cover.
POWER OUTLET
DESCRIPTION
Accessory power outlets are standard equipment on
this model. Two power outlets are installed in the
instrument panel center lower bezel, which is located
near the bottom of the instrument panel center stack
area. Two additional power outlets are also incorpo-
rated into the vehicle, one on the left rear C-pillar
trim and the other in the center console, if equipped.
The power outlets bases are secured by a snap fit in
the appropriate bezels. A hinged plug flips closed to
conceal and protect the power outlet base when the
power outlet is not being used.
The power outlet receptacle unit and the power
outlet plugs are each available for service replace-
ment.
OPERATION
The power outlet base or receptacle shell is con-
nected to ground, and an insulated contact in the
bottom of the shell is connected to battery current.
The power outlet on the instrument panel marked
with a battery receives battery voltage from a fuse in
the Integrated Power Module (IPM) at all times. The
other power outlet on the instrument panel marked
with a key receives battery voltage only when the
key is in the on position.
The power outlet located in the center console
receives battery voltage all the time when positioned
between thefront seatsand key-on voltage when
positioned between therear seats. The power outlet
located on the C-pillar receives battery voltage only
when the key is in the on position.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS & TESTING - POWER OUTLET
For complete circuit diagrams, refer toCigar
Lighter/Power Outletin Wiring Diagrams.
RS8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM8W-97-5
IOD FUSE (Continued)
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WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO RESTRAINTS BEFORE ATTEMPT-
ING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN,
SEAT OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAG-
NOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE
PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCI-
DENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE
PERSONAL INJURY.
(1) Check the fused B(+) fuse in the Integrated
Power Module (IPM). If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK,
repair the shorted circuit or component as required
and replace the faulty fuse.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) fuse
in the IPM. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the
open fused B(+) circuit to the IPM fuse as required.
(3)
Open the power outlet door. Check for continuity
between the inside circumference of the power outlet
receptacle and a good ground. There should be continu-
ity. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, go to Step 5.
(4) Check for battery voltage at the insulated con-
tact located at the back of the power outlet recepta-
cle. If not OK, go to Step 5.
(5) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable. Remove the appropriate bezel. Check for conti-
nuity between the ground circuit cavity of the power
outlet wire harness connector and a good ground.
There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 6. If not
OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground as
required.
(6) Connect the battery negative cable. Check for
battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the
power outlet wire harness connector. If OK, replace
the faulty power outlet receptacle. If not OK, repair
the open fused B(+) circuit to the IPM fuse as
required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Look inside and note position of the retaining
bosses (Fig. 5).
(3) Using external snap ring pliers with 90 degree
tips. Insert pliers with tips against bosses and
squeeze forcing bosses out of base.
(4) Pull out the base through mounting ring by
gently rocking pliers. A tool can be made to do the
same. Refer to (Fig. 6).
(5) Disconnect the base wires.
(6) Set base aside. Remove light ring and discon-
nect wire.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the mounting ring on the instrument
panel and feed the wires through the ring. Index the
cap and the mounting ring with the index tab at the9 o'clock position to the key in the instrument panel.
Install the ring.
(2) Connect the wires to the base. Orientate the
base alignment rib at the 11 o'clock position to mate
the groove in the mounting ring to the base.
(3) Push the base into the bezel until it locks in
place.
(4) Check operation of outlet or element and
install the 12 volt outlet cap.
Fig. 5 Outlet Base Removal
1 - RETAINING BOSSES-ENGAGE PLIERS HERE
2 - PARTIALLY REMOVED
3 - EXTERNAL SNAP-RING PLIERS
4 - PULL BASE OUT-THROUGH MOUNTING RING
Fig. 6 Tool For Outlet Removal
1 - 2.5MM (3/32 INS.)
2 - WELD
3 - 100MM (4 INS.)
4 - 22.25 TO 22.45MM (7/8 TO 57/64 INS.)
8W - 97 - 6 8W-97 POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMRS
POWER OUTLET (Continued)
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery. 1. Test battery. Charge or replace
as necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Test starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit. 4. Test and replace as needed.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. Set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL
- SPECIFICATIONS)
6. Contamination in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump. 7. Test fuel pump and replace as
needed. (Refer to Appropriate
Diagnostic Information)
8. Incorrect engine timing. 8. Check for a skipped timing
belt/chain.
ENGINE STALLS OR IDLES
ROUGH1. Idle speed too low. 1. Test minimum air flow. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
2. Incorrect fuel mixture. 2. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
3. Intake manifold leakage. 3. Inspect intake manifold, manifold
gasket, and vacuum hoses.
4. Faulty ignition coil(s). 4. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
9 - 4 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 8 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
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(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 2.4L9-9
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
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Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically
locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the
following steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the
engine, severe damage may occur.
(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
Fig. 2 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 10 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
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STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PISTON TO
CYLINDER BORE FITTING
Piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry.
Piston diameter should be measured 90 degrees to
piston pin about 14 mm (9/16 inch.) from the bottom
of the skirt as shown in (Fig. 42). Cylinder bores
should be measured halfway down the cylinder bore
and transverse to the engine crankshaft center line
shown in (Fig. 41). Refer to for Engine Specifications
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). Correct
piston to bore clearance must be established in order
to assure quiet and economical operation.
NOTE: Pistons and cylinder bores should be mea-
sured at normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
(1) Used carefully, the cylinder bore resizing hone,
recommended tool C-823 or equivalent, equipped
with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this honing
procedure. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done
using a cylinder surfacing hone, recommended tool
C-3501 or equivalent, equipped with 280 grit stones,
if the cylinder bore is straight and round. 20±60
strokes depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Use a light
honing oil.Do not use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits or kerosene.Inspect cylinder walls
after each 20 strokes.(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.
When hone marksintersectat 40-60 degrees, the
cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seat-
ing of rings (Fig. 43).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between
200±300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40±60
degree angle. Faster up and down strokes increase
the cross-hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasive.
Fig. 40 Cylinder Block and Bedplate
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - BEDPLATE
Fig. 41 Checking Cylinder Bore
Fig. 42 Piston Measurement
9 - 36 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)
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(7) Remove crankshaft vibration damper. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove air conditioner/generator belt tensioner
and pulley assembly. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/BELT TENSIONERS - REMOVAL)
(9) Remove timing belt lower front cover bolts and
remove cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Remove bolts attaching timing belt upper
front cover and remove cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S)
- REMOVAL)
(12) Remove right engine mount. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/RIGHT MOUNT -
REMOVAL)
(13) Remove engine mount bracket (Fig. 116).CAUTION: When aligning crankshaft and camshaft
timing marks always rotate engine from crankshaft.
Camshaft should not be rotated after timing belt is
removed. Damage to valve components may occur.
Always align timing marks before removing timing
belt.
(14) Before the removal of the timing belt, rotate
crankshaft until the TDC mark on oil pump housing
aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket
(trailing edge of sprocket tooth) (Fig. 117).
NOTE: The crankshaft sprocket TDC mark is
located on the trailing edge of the sprocket tooth.
Failure to align trailing edge of sprocket tooth to
TDC mark on oil pump housing will cause the cam-
shaft timing marks to be misaligned.
(15) Install 6 mm Allen wrench into belt tensioner.
Before rotating the tensioner, insert the long end of a
1/8º or 3 mm Allen wrench into the pin hole on the
front of the tensioner (Fig. 118). While rotating the
tensioner counterclockwise, push in lightly on the
1/8º or 3 mm Allen wrench, until it slides into the
locking hole.
(16) Remove timing belt.
Fig. 116 Engine Mount Bracket
1 - ENGINE MOUNT BRACKET
2 - BOLTS - 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 117 Crankshaft and Camshaft Timing
1 - CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS
2 - CRANKSHAFT TDC MARKS
3 - TRAILING EDGE OF SPROCKET TOOTH
RSENGINE 2.4L9-65
TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S) (Continued)
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