2002 CHRYSLER CARAVAN sensor

The center of the knuckle supports the hub and
bearing and axle shaft.
REMOVAL - STEERING KNUCKLE
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the
vehicle.
(3) Remove the cotter pin, nut lock and spring
washer from the end of the stub axle and hub nut
(Fig. 8).
(4) Have a helper apply the vehicle's brakes to
keep hub from turning,loosen and removethe hub
nut (Fig. 8).
(5) Remove disc brake caliper and adapter as an
assembly from knuckle as shown (Fig. 9). Hang
assembly out of the way using a bungee cord or wire
(Fig. 10).Do not allow caliper to hang by brake
hose.
(6) Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to
steering knuckle by holding the tie rod end stud
while loosening and removing nut with a wrench
(Fig. 11).
(7) Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle
using Remover, Special Tool C-3894±A (Fig. 12).
(8) If equipped with antilock brakes, remove the
front wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle
(Fig. 13).
(9) Remove the two steering knuckle-to-strut clevis
bracket attaching bolts.
(10) Tip the knuckle outward and remove the
driveshaft stub axle from the hub and bearing. Sus-
pend driveshaft straight outward using a bungee
cord or wire (Fig. 10).Do not allow driveshaft to
hang by inner joint.
Fig. 8 Hub Nut
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER
Fig. 9 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
Fig. 10 Caliper And Driveshaft Suspended
1 - HANGER SUSPENDING CALIPER
2 - HANGER SUSPENDING DRIVESHAFT
3 - DRIVESHAFT
4 - BRAKE CALIPER
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-7
KNUCKLE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(11) Remove ball joint nut using a power impact
wrench. Because the tapered stud is held sufficientlyin the knuckle at this time, it is not necessary to
hold the stud stationary to remove the nut.
(12) Reinstall the ball joint nut until the top of the
nut is even with the top of the ball joint stud. This
will keep the stud from distorting while the stud is
released from the knuckle in the following step.
CAUTION: Do not remove ball joint stud from steer-
ing knuckle using a hammer. Damage to the Alumi-
num knuckle, ball joint or control arm will result.
(13) Release ball joint stud from steering knuckle
using Remover, Special Tool C-4150A, as shown (Fig.
14). To ease Remover installation and use, it may
help to rotate the knuckle around so the inside of the
knuckle faces outward.
(14) Remove the nut from the top of the ball joint
stud.
(15) Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle.
(16) If the hub and bearing needs to be trans-
ferred, remove the four bolts attaching the hub and
bearing to the knuckle, then remove the hub and
bearing.
INSPECTION - STEERING KNUCKLE
Inspect the knuckle for the following:
²Cracks or breaks
²Dents or damage
²Stress marks indicating a bend
The front suspension knuckle is not a repairable
component of the vehicles front suspension. If bent,
broken or damaged in any way, do not attempt to
straighten or repair the steering knuckle. It must be
replaced.
Fig. 11 Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
1 - TIE ROD END
2 - STEERING KNUCKLE
3 - WRENCH
4 - SOCKET
5 - TIE ROD END STUD
Fig. 12 Tie Rod Removal With Tool C-3894-A
1 - OUTER TIE ROD
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3894-A
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 13 Front Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - MOUNTING BOLT
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - 8 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
KNUCKLE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(7) If equipped with antilock brakes, install wheel
speed sensor and mounting bolt on steering knuckle
(Fig. 13). Tighten the speed sensor bolt to a torque of
7 N´m (60 in. lbs.).
(8) Install brake rotor on hub and bearing (Fig. 9).
(9) Install disc brake caliper and adapter assembly
on steering knuckle. Install adapter amounting bolts
and tighten to 169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).
(10) Clean any debris from the threads of the
outer C/V joint stub axle.
(11) Install the washer and hub nut on stub axle.
(12) Have a helper apply the vehicle's brakes to
keep hub from turning, then tighten hub nut to a
torque of 244 N´m (180 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install the spring wave washer on the end of
the stub axle.
(14) Install the hub nut lock, and anewcotter pin
(Fig. 8). Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the
hub nut lock.
(15) Install wheel and tire assembly. Install and
tighten the wheel mounting nuts in proper sequence
until all nuts are torqued to half the required speci-
fication. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the
full specified torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(16) Lower vehicle.
(17) Set front wheel alignment camber and toe as
necessary. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL
ALIGNMENT - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
LOWER BALL JOINT
DESCRIPTION
The ball joint is an integral part of the lower con-
trol arm (Fig. 1). The ball joint has a tapered stud
that is pressed into the aluminum knuckle. The ball
joint stud is threaded on the end for a retainer nut.
The ball joint has a non-vented seal boot. The seal
boot has an integrated heat shield.
The ball joint used in the lower control arm of this
vehicle is a sealed-for-life ball joint and requires no
maintenance lubrication. The ball joint has been
lubricated-for-life during the manufacturing process.
A special fitting cap is installed on the fill port. This
cap must not be removed and replaced with a com-
mon zirc fitting. The special cap is there to eliminate
the possibility of lubrication latter during the ball
joints life, thus damaging the non-vented seal boot.
NOTE: The ball joint does not require any type of
additional lubrication for the life of the vehicle. No
attempt should be made to ever add any lubrication
to the lower ball joint.
OPERATION
The ball joint is a pivotal joint on the lower control
arm that allows the knuckle to move up and down,
and turn with ease.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LOWER BALL
JOINT
With the weight of the vehicle resting on the road
wheels, grasp the special fitting cap on the bottom of
the ball joint and with no mechanical assistance or
added force, attempt to rotate the grease fitting.
If the ball joint is worn, the grease fitting will
rotate easily. If movement is noted, replacement of
the control arm is recommended.
LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL
BOOT
DESCRIPTION - EXPORT
The lower ball joint seal boot is a two piece unit. It
consists of the seal boot, plus a separate shield that
is located in a groove at the top of the seal boot.
NOTE: The seal boot should only be replaced if
damaged during vehicle service. The entire lower
control arm should be replaced if the joint has been
contaminated.
Fig. 16 Correctly Installed Eccentric Attaching Bolt
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - FLANGED BOLT IN TOP HOLE
3 - CAM BOLT IN BOTTOM HOLE
4 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - 10 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
KNUCKLE (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

The coil spring controls ride quality and maintains
proper ride height.
The spring isolators isolate the coil spring at the
top and bottom from coming into metal-to-metal con-
tact with the upper seat and strut.
The jounce bumper limits suspension travel and
metal-to-metal contact under full jounce condition.
The strut dampens jounce and rebound motions of
the coil spring and suspension.
During steering maneuvers, the strut assembly
(through a pivot bearing in the upper strut mount)
and steering knuckle (through the lower ball joint)
turn as an assembly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT ASSEMBLY
(1) Inspect for damaged or broken coil springs
(Fig. 38).
(2) Inspect for torn or damaged strut assembly
dust boots (Fig. 38).
(3) Inspect the coil spring isolator on the lower
spring seat for any signs of damage or deterioration.
(4) Lift dust boot (Fig. 39) and inspect strut
assembly for evidence of fluid running from the
upper end of fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be astream of fluid running down the side and dripping
off lower end of unit). A slight amount of seepage
between the strut rod and strut shaft seal is not
unusual and does not affect performance of the strut
assembly (Fig. 39). Also inspect jounce bumpers for
signs of damage or deterioration.
REMOVAL - STRUT ASSEMBLY
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT FROM THE
STRUT ROD WHILE STRUT ASSEMBLY IS
INSTALLED IN VEHICLE, OR BEFORE STRUT
ASSEMBLY SPRING IS COMPRESSED.
(1) Raise the vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication
and Maintenance.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from loca-
tion on front of vehicle requiring strut removal.
(3) If both strut assemblies are to be removed,
mark the strut assemblies right or left according to
which side of the vehicle they were removed from.
(4) Remove the hydraulic brake hose routing
bracket and the speed sensor cable routing bracket
from the strut damper brackets (Fig. 40).
Fig. 38 STRUT ASSEMBLY
1 - NUT 6 - COIL SPRING
2 - UPPER MOUNT 7 - DUST SHIELD
3 - PIVOT BEARING 8 - JOUNCE BUMPER
4 - UPPER SPRING SEAT 9 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
5 - UPPER SPRING ISOLATOR 10 - STRUT (DAMPER)
2 - 20 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
STRUT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

CAUTION: When removing the nut from the stud of
the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud to
rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the stud (Fig. 41).
(5) Remove the stabilizer bar link from the bracket
on the strut assembly (Fig. 41). To do so, place anopen-end wrench on the flat machined into the link's
mounting stud, then remove the nut while holding
the wrench in place. Push the stud out of the
bracket.
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during removal. Remove nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
(6) Remove the 2 strut assembly clevis bracket to
steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 42).
Fig. 39 Strut Assembly Leakage Inspection (Typical)
1 - DUST BOOT
2 - STRUT SHAFT
3 - STRUT FLUID RESERVOIR
4 - INSPECT THIS AREA FOR EVIDENCE OF EXCESSIVE FLUID
LEAKAGE
Fig. 40 Brake Hose And Speed Sensor Cable
Routing
1 - STRUT DAMPER
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CABLE
3 - ROUTING BRACKET
4 - HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE
5 - ATTACHING BOLT
6 - ROUTING BRACKET
Fig. 41 Stabilizer Bar Link To Strut Attachment
1 - NUT
2 - STRUT
3 - STABILIZER BAR LINK
Fig. 42 Strut Damper Attachment To Steering
Knuckle
1 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
2 - ATTACHING BOLTS
3 - TIE ROD END
4 - ROTOR
5 - STEERING KNUCKLE
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-21
STRUT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(6) Position spring mounting bracket over spring
eye and install pivot bolt through center of bushing
from theoutboardside.
NOTE: The pivot bolt must be installed from the
outboard side to allow proper bracket to body
mounting.
(7) Install the nut on the pivot bolt and lightly
tighten. Do not fully tighten bolt at this time.
(8) Raise the under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack, guiding the forward mounting bracket into
place against the body. It may help to use a drift
punch placed through the hole centered between the
mounting bolt holes in the bracket and the pilot hole
in the body of the vehicle as a guide. When the four
mounting bolt holes line up with their threads in the
body, Install the mounting bolts (Fig. 3). Tighten the
four mounting bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Raise or lower the jack until shock absorber
lower eye aligns with threads in axle housing. Install
shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Do not fully
tighten bolt at this time.
(10) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
(11) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.(12) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
HUB / BEARING
DESCRIPTION
The rear wheel bearing and rear wheel hub of this
vehicle are a one-piece sealed unit, or hub and bear-
ing unit type assembly (Unit III). The hub and bear-
ing is mounted to the center of the rear axle using 4
mounting bolts. It has five wheel mounting studs on
the hub flange.
All-Wheel-Drive vehicles have a hub and bearing
unit with a splined hole in the center of the hub for
rear driveshaft stub axle acceptance.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles with antilock brakes
have an internally mounted wheel speed sensor and
tone wheel. This hub and bearing can be identified
by the rounded cap and molded in connector on the
rear of the assembly (Fig. 7). The sensor and tone
wheel cannot be serviced separately from the hub
and bearing.
Fig. 5 TOOL 8459 MOUNTED FOR BUSHING
REMOVAL
1 - BUSHING
2 - BEARING
3 - WASHER
4 - NUT
5 - BODY (8459-1)
6 - PIN
7 - REMOVER PLATE (8459-2)
8 - SET SCREW
Fig. 6 TOOL 8459 MOUNTED FOR BUSHING
INSTALLATION
1 - NUT
2 - WASHER
3 - BEARING
4 - LEAF SPRING EYE
5 - BUSHING
6 - INSTALLER PLATE (8459-3)
7 - PIN
8 - BODY (8459-1)
2 - 30 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
BUSHINGS (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

OPERATION
The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the tire and wheel
assembly (and driveshaft on All-Wheel-Drive vehi-
cles). The five wheel mounting studs mount the tire
and wheel assembly, and disc brake rotor or brake
drum to the vehicle.
On All-Wheel-Drive vehicles, the splined mating of
the driveshaft stub axle and hub allows the drive-
shaft to rotate with the hub and wheel.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles equipped with antilock
brakes have a wheel speed sensor and tone wheel
mounted to the rear of the hub and bearing. The tone
wheel rotates with the hub which is sensed by the
wheel speed sensor.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The bearing contained in the hub and bearing
assembly will produce noise and vibration when worn
or damaged. The noise will generally change when
the bearings are loaded. A road test of the vehicle is
normally required to determine the location of a
worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is some-
times noticeable at lower speeds and at other times
is more noticeable at speeds above 105 km/h (65
mph).
REMOVAL
FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel and tire. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove brake drum or disc brake caliper and
rotor from hub and bearing. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DRUM - REMOVAL-
)(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ROTOR - REMOVAL)
(4) If equipped with antilock brakes, perform the
following:
(a) Remove secondary (yellow) retaining clip at
rear of wheel speed sensor head (Fig. 8).
(b) Push up on metal retaining clip (Fig. 8) until
it bottoms. This will release wheel speed sensor
head from hub and bearing.
(c) While holding metal clip up, pull back on
wheel speed sensor head removing it from hub and
bearing.
(5) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the hub and bear-
ing to the rear axle.
CAUTION: Corrosion may occur between the hub
and bearing, and the axle. If this occurs the hub
and bearing will be difficult to remove from the
axle. If the hub and bearing will not come out of the
axle by pulling on it by hand, do not pound on the
hub and bearing to remove it from the axle. Damage
will occur. Use the following procedure.
Fig. 7 Hub And Bearing - FWD With ABS
Fig. 8 Sensor Connector At Hub And Bearing
1 - SECONDARY SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
2 - METAL SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
3 - HUB AND BEARING
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-31
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(6) If hub and bearing cannot be removed from the
axle by hand, use Remover, Special Tool 8458 (Fig. 9)
and following procedure to press the hub and bearing
out of the axle.
(a) Thread Threaded Guide Pins into hub and
bearing mounting bolt holes.
(b) Remove the two outboard spring plate bolts.
(c) Using the spring plate bolts, install the
Screw Mount, Special Tool 8458±2, as shown (Fig.
9).
(d) Place Push Plate, Special Tool 8458±1, on
ends of Threaded Guide Pins
(e) Place a dab of grease in dimple of Push
Plate.
(f) Tighten the Forcing Screw, Special Tool
8458±3, up against dimple in Push Plate and press
hub and bearing out of axle by continuing to
tighten screw.
(g) Remove the tool.
(h) Reinstall the two outboard spring plate bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 102 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Remove the hub/bearing from the rear axle and
brake support plate.
ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Set the parking brake.The parking brake is
set to keep the hub and bearing, and axle shaft
from rotating when loosening the hub nut.(2) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(3) Remove the wheel/tire assembly. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the cotter pin and nut retainer (Fig.
18) from the stub shaft of the outer C/V joint.
(5) Remove the spring washer (Fig. 17) from the
stub shaft of the outer C/V joint.
(6) Remove the hub nut and washer (Fig. 16) from
the stub shaft of the outer C/V joint.
(7) Remove the 6 bolts mounting the driveshaft
inner joint to the output shaft of the rear drive line
module.
(8) Remove the rear wheel speed sensor (Fig. 19)
from the rear hub/bearing.
(9) Release the parking brake.
(10) Remove the disc brake caliper to adapter
guide pin bolts (Fig. 15).
(11) Remove rear caliper from adapter using the
following procedure. First rotate front of caliper up
from the adapter. Then pull the rear of the caliper
and the outboard brake shoe anti-rattle clip out from
under the rear abutment on the adapter (Fig. 14).
(12) Support caliper to prevent the weight of the
caliper from damaging the flexible brake hose (Fig.
10).
(13) Remove the rotor from the hub/bearing.
(14) Remove driveshaft from rear drive line mod-
ule and hub/bearing. Driveshaft is removed by first
compressing the inner joint on the driveshaft and
removing it from the drive line module. Then, slide
Fig. 9 Removal Using Special Tool 8458
1 - THREADED GUIDE PINS 8458-4
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - LEAF SPRING PLATE
4 - FORCING SCREW 8458-3
5 - SCREW MOUNT 8458-2
6 - PUSH PLATE 8458-1
Fig. 10 Correctly Supported Caliper
1 - WIRE
2 - CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER
4 - ROTOR
5 - INNER FENDER
2 - 32 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com