2002 CHRYSLER CARAVAN light

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
3. Low power steering fluid level. 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
proper level and check for leaks.
4. Loose clamp on fluid supply hose. 4. Tighten or replace hose clamp.
SQUEAK OR RUBBING
SOUND1. Steering column shroud rubbing. 1. Realign shrouds as necessary.
2. Steering column shaft rubbing. 2. Move or realign item rubbing shaft.
3. Clockspring noisy. 3. Remove clockspring. Reinstall wheel.
If noise is gone, replace clockspring.
4. Seal lubrication inadequate. 4. Lube seal (if external).
5. Steering gear internally noisy. 5. Replace steering gear (if no other
cause can be found).
SCRUBBING OR
KNOCKING NOISE.1. Incorrect tire or wheel size. 1. Replace incorrect size tire or wheel
with size used as original equipment.
2. Interference between steering
gear and other vehicle components.2. Check for bent or misaligned
components and correct as necessary.
3. Steering gear internal stops worn
excessively allowing tires to be
steered excessively far.3. Replace steering gear.
NOTE: * There is some noise in all power steering
systems. One of the most common is a hissing
sound evident when turning the steering wheel
when at a standstill or when parking and the steer-
ing wheel is at the end of its travel. Hiss is a very
high frequency noise similar to that experienced
while slowly closing a water tap. The noise is
present in every valve and results when high veloc-
ity fluid passes valve orifice edges. There is no
relationship between this noise and the perfor-
mance of the steering system.
NOTE: ** A light clunk may be felt or heard during
steering wheel reversal while vehicle is stationary.This results from internal steering gear rack move-
ment at the bushings and in no way affects the per-
formance of the steering system. This movement
may be felt in the steering components during
steering wheel reversal.
NOTE: *** Power steering pump growl/moan/groan
results from the development of high pressure fluid
flow. Normally this noise level should not be high
enough to be objectionable.
STEERING WHEEL FEEL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
STEERING WHEEL/
COLUMN CLICKING,
CLUNKING OR RATTLING.1. Loose steering coupling pinch
bolt.1. Replace pinch bolt and torque to
specifications.
2. Steering column bearings. 2. Replace steering column.
3. Excessive intermediate shaft
coupling free-play.3. Replace intermediate shaft.
STEERING WHEEL HAS
FORE AND AFT
LOOSENESS.1. Steering wheel retaining nut not
properly tightened and torqued.1. Tighten the steering wheel retaining nut
to its specified torque.
RSSTEERING19-5
STEERING (Continued)
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(8) Remove the two screws holding the metal cover
in place below the shifter/ignition interlock linkage
(Fig. 22), then remove the cover.
(9) Disconnect the shifter/ignition interlock link
from the lever on the lock cylinder housing (Fig. 23).
(10) Remove the key cylinder. To do this:
²Turn the key placing the key cylinder in the ON
position.²Depress and hold the retaining tab on the bot-
tom of the lock cylinder housing (Fig. 24).
²Pull the key cylinder straight out of the lock cyl-
inder housing.
(11) Remove the vehicle wiring harness connector
from the key cylinder halo lamp (Fig. 25).
(12) Remove the key cylinder halo lamp from the
lock cylinder housing.
Fig. 22 Cover Removal/Installation
1 - IGNITION SWITCH
2 - SCREW
3 - COVER
Fig. 23 Shifter/Ignition Interlock Linkage
Disconnected
1 - LEVER
2 - LINK
3 - LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING
Fig. 24 Cylinder Retaining Tab
1 - IGNITION SWITCH
2 - RETAINING TAB
Fig. 25 Wiring Harness Connection To Halo Lamp
1 - IGNITION SWITCH
2 - STEERING COLUMN ASSEMBLY
3 - WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR
4 - IGNITION SWITCH HALO LIGHT
RSCOLUMN19-19
LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING (Continued)
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(2) Fill the fluid reservoir to the proper level and
let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
(3) Start the engine and let run for a few seconds,
then turn the engine off.
(4) Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above steps
until the fluid level remains constant after running
the engine.
(5) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(6) Start the engine.
(7) Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left,
lightly contacting the wheel stops.
(8) Add fluid if necessary.
(9) Lower the vehicle, then turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock-to-lock.
(10) Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and
refill as required.
(11) If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehi-
cle to stabilize a few minutes, then repeat the above
procedure.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - PUMP (2.4L ENGINE)
(1) Remove the (-) negative battery cable from the
battery and isolate cable.
(2) Remove the cap from the power steering fluid
reservoir.
(3) Using a siphon pump, remove as much power
steering fluid as possible from the power steering
fluid reservoir.
(4) Raise the vehicle on jack stands or centered on
a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance.
(5) Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring harness
from the vehicle wiring harness at the rear engine
mount bracket.
NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be removed
from the engine to allow for an area to remove the
power steering pump from the vehicle.
(6) Remove the four bolts and flag nuts securing
the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold
(Fig. 3).(7) Disconnect all the exhaust system isolators/
hangers from the brackets on the exhaust system (2
at the mufflers and 1 at the resonator) (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the exhaust system by moving it as far
rearward, then lowering the front below the cross-
member and out of the vehicle.
(9) Remove the power steering fluid supply hose
from the fitting on the power steering pump. Drain
off excess power steering fluid from hose.
(10) Move the heat sleeve on the power steering
return hose to expose the hose connection at the
pump (Fig. 5). Remove the hose from the power
steering Pump. Allow the remaining power steering
fluid to drain from the power steering pump and res-
ervoir through the removed return hose.
(11) Remove the power steering fluid pressure line
from the power steering pump (Fig. 6). Drain excess
power steering fluid from tube.
(12) Remove the fasteners, then the accessory
drive splash shield.
Fig. 3 Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold
1 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
2 - BOLT
3 - GASKET
4 - FLAG NUT
19 - 38 PUMPRS
PUMP (Continued)
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FLUID LEAK DIAGNOSIS
When diagnosing fluid leaks on the Power Transfer
Unit two weep holes are provided to diagnose certain
seal leaks. These holes are located on the bottom side
of the assembly (Fig. 5).
If fluid leak is detected from either weep hole, seal
replacement is necessary.Do not attempt to repair
the leak by sealing weep holes,they must be kept
clear of sealants for proper seal operation.
If fluid is leaking from weep hole A (Fig. 5) the
type of fluid leaking will determine which seal needs
to be replaced. If the fluid leaking is red in color(transmission fluid) this indicates that the Transmis-
sion differential carrier seal should be replaced. If
the fluid leaking is light brown (gear lube) this indi-
cates that the Power Transfer Unit input seal should
be replaced. For replacement of these seals refer to
Power Transfer Unit Service Procedures.
If fluid is leaking from weep hole B (Fig. 5) the
type of fluid leaking will determine which seal is
leaking. If the fluid leaking is red in color (transmis-
sion fluid) this indicates that the input shaft end seal
should be replaced. If the fluid leaking is light brown
(gear lube) this indicates that the half shaft inner
seal and P.T.U. input shaft cover seal should be
replaced. For replacement of these seals refer to
Power Transfer Unit Service Procedures.
Before condemning any seal or gasket be sure that
the rear rocker arm cover on the engine is not the
cause of the oil leak. Oil leaking from the rocker arm
cover is easily mistaken for a leaking Power Transfer
Unit.
Fig. 3 Seal Location
1 - INPUT SHAFT
2 - OUTPUT SHAFT
3 - REAR COVER
4 - P.T.U. CASE
5 - INPUT SHAFT SEAL
Fig. 4 Seal Location
1 - P.T.U. INPUT SHAFT COVER SEAL
2 - HALF SHAFT INNER SEAL
3 - INSIDE VIEW OF P.T.U. END COVER
Fig. 5 Weep Hole Locations
1 - ENGINE OIL PAN
2 - WEEP HOLE ªAº
3 - TRANSAXLE CASE
4 - P.T.U.
5 - WEEP HOLE ªBº
21 - 4 POWER TRANSFER UNITRS
POWER TRANSFER UNIT (Continued)
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OPERATION
The converter impeller (Fig. 235) (driving member),
which is integral to the converter housing and bolted
to the engine drive plate, rotates at engine speed.
The converter turbine (driven member), which reacts
from fluid pressure generated by the impeller, rotates
and turns the transmission input shaft.
TURBINE
As the fluid that was put into motion by the impel-
ler blades strikes the blades of the turbine, some of
the energy and rotational force is transferred into the
turbine and the input shaft. This causes both of them
(turbine and input shaft) to rotate in a clockwise
direction following the impeller. As the fluid is leav-
ing the trailing edges of the turbine's blades it con-
tinues in a ªhinderingº direction back toward the
impeller. If the fluid is not redirected before it strikes
the impeller, it will strike the impeller in such a
direction that it would tend to slow it down.
Fig. 235 Torque Converter Fluid Operation
1 - APPLY PRESSURE 3 - RELEASE PRESSURE
2 - THE PISTON MOVES SLIGHTLY FORWARD 4 - THE PISTON MOVES SLIGHTLY REARWARD
21 - 126 31TH AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLERS
TORQUE CONVERTER (Continued)
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STATOR
Torque multiplication is achieved by locking the
stator's over-running clutch to its shaft (Fig. 236).
Under stall conditions (the turbine is stationary), the
oil leaving the turbine blades strikes the face of the
stator blades and tries to rotate them in a counter-
clockwise direction. When this happens the over±run-
ning clutch of the stator locks and holds the stator
from rotating. With the stator locked, the oil strikes
the stator blades and is redirected into a ªhelpingº
direction before it enters the impeller. This circula-
tion of oil from impeller to turbine, turbine to stator,
and stator to impeller, can produce a maximum
torque multiplication of about 2.4:1. As the turbine
begins to match the speed of the impeller, the fluid
that was hitting the stator in such as way as to
cause it to lock±up is no longer doing so. In this con-
dition of operation, the stator begins to free wheel
and the converter acts as a fluid coupling.
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC)
In a standard torque converter, the impeller and
turbine are rotating at about the same speed and the
stator is freewheeling, providing no torque multipli-
cation. By applying the turbine's piston to the front
cover's friction material, a total converter engage-
ment can be obtained. The result of this engagement
is a direct 1:1 mechanical link between the engine
and the transmission.
The engagement and disengagement of the TCC
are automatic and controlled by the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM). The engagement cannot be acti-
vated in the lower gears because it eliminates the
torque multiplication effect of the torque converternecessary for acceleration. Inputs that determine
clutch engagement are: coolant temperature, vehicle
speed and throttle position. The torque converter
clutch is engaged by the clutch solenoid on the valve
body. The clutch will engage at approximately 56
km/h (35 mph) with light throttle, after the shift to
third gear.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and torque converter
from vehicle. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/AUTOMATIC - 31TH - REMOVAL)
(2) Place a suitable drain pan under the converter
housing end of the transmission.
CAUTION: Verify that transmission is secure on the
lifting device or work surface, the center of gravity
of the transmission will shift when the torque con-
verter is removed creating an unstable condition.
The torque converter is a heavy unit. Use caution
when separating the torque converter from the
transmission.
(3) Pull the torque converter forward until the cen-
ter hub clears the oil pump seal.
(4) Separate the torque converter from the trans-
mission.
INSTALLATION
Check converter hub and drive notches for sharp
edges, burrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub and
notches with 320/400 grit paper or crocus cloth if nec-
essary. The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging
the pump seal at installation.
(1) Lubricate converter hub and oil pump seal lip
with transmission fluid.
(2) Place torque converter in position on transmis-
sion.
CAUTION: Do not damage oil pump seal or bushing
while inserting torque converter into the front of the
transmission.
(3) Align torque converter to oil pump seal open-
ing.
(4) Insert torque converter hub into oil pump.
(5) While pushing torque converter inward, rotate
converter until converter is fully seated in the oil
pump gears.
(6) Check converter seating with a scale and
straightedge (Fig. 237). Surface of converter lugs
should be 1/2 in. to rear of straightedge when con-
verter is fully seated.
(7) If necessary, temporarily secure converter with
C-clamp attached to the converter housing.
Fig. 236 Stator Operation
1 - DIRECTION STATOR WILL FREE WHEEL DUE TO OIL
PUSHING ON BACKSIDE OF VANES
2 - FRONT OF ENGINE
3 - INCREASED ANGLE AS OIL STRIKES VANES
4 - DIRECTION STATOR IS LOCKED UP DUE TO OIL PUSHING
AGAINST STATOR VANES
RS31TH AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE21 - 127
TORQUE CONVERTER (Continued)
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(14) Remove valve body from transaxle. Note ori-
entation of governor tubes (Fig. 305).
DISASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Do not clamp any portion of valve body
or transfer plate in a vise. Any slight distortion of
the aluminum body or transfer plate will result in
sticking valves, excessive leakage, or both. When
removing or installing valves or plugs, slide them in
or out carefully. Do not use force.
NOTE: TAG ALL SPRINGS AS THEY ARE REMOVED
FOR REASSEMBLY IDENTIFICATION.
(1) Remove detent spring-to-valve body screws and
remove spring (Fig. 306).(2) Remove valve body-to-separator plate screws
(Fig. 307) (Fig. 308).
Fig. 305 Valve Body and Governor Tubes
1 - VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY
2 - GOVERNOR TUBES
Fig. 306 Detent Spring Attaching Screw and Spring
1 - SPECIAL TOOL L-4553
2 - DETENT SPRING SCREW
3 - SCREWDRIVER HANDLE
Fig. 307 Using Tool L-4553 on Valve Body Screw
1 - SCREWDRIVER HANDLE
2 - VALVE BODY ASSEMBLY
3 - SPECIAL TOOL L-4553
Fig. 308 Remove Valve Body-to-Transfer Plate
Screws
1 - SCREWDRIVER HANDLE
2 - VALVE BODY SCREWS (16)
3 - VALVE BODY
4 - SPECIAL TOOL L-4553
21 - 148 31TH AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLERS
VALVE BODY (Continued)
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valve or plug edges. Squareness of these edges is
vitally important. These edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves, plugs and bore.
INSPECTION
Inspect the throttle and manual valve levers and
shafts. Do not attempt to straighten a bent shaft or
correct a loose lever. Replace these components if
worn, bent, loose or damaged in any way.
Inspect all of the valve body mating surfaces for
scratches, nicks, burrs, or distortion. Use a straight-
edge to check surface flatness. Minor scratches may
be removed with crocus cloth using only very light
pressure.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Also inspect the coating on the alu-
minum valves and plugs. If the coating is damaged
or worn through, the valve (or valve body) should be
replaced.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve
body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors.
Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or
scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores. Valve
body bores do not change dimensionally with use. If
the valve body functioned correctly when new, it will
continue to operate properly after cleaning and
inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a
valve body assembly unless it is damaged in han-
dling.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Install shift/shuttle valves and springs as
shown in (Fig. 320).
(2) Install torque converter clutch solenoid, spring,
and plug as shown in (Fig. 319).
(3) Install governor plugs as shown in (Fig. 318).
(4) Install pressure regulator and manual control
springs and valves as shown in (Fig. 317).
(5) Install pressure regulator spring retainer/ad-
justing screw bracket (Fig. 321).
(6) Install manual valve from valve body (Fig.
322).
Fig. 321 Pressure Regulator and Adjusting Screw
Bracket
1 - SCREWDRIVER HANDLE
2 - PRESSURE REGULATOR SPRING RETAINER AND
ADJUSTING SCREW BRACKET
3 - VALVE BODY
4 - SCREWS
Fig. 322 Install Manual Valve
1 - MANUAL VALVE
2 - VALVE BODY
RS31TH AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE21 - 155
VALVE BODY (Continued)
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