2001 DODGE TOWN AND COUNTRY check engine light

SERVICE WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS
WARNING: POWER STEERING FLUID, ENGINE
PARTS AND EXHAUST SYSTEM MAY BE
EXTREMELY HOT IF ENGINE HAS BEEN RUNNING.
DO NOT START ENGINE WITH ANY LOOSE OR DIS-
CONNECTED HOSES. DO NOT ALLOW HOSES TO
TOUCH HOT EXHAUST MANIFOLD OR CATALYST.
WARNING: FLUID LEVEL SHOULD BE CHECKED
WITH THE ENGINE OFF TO PREVENT PERSONAL
INJURY FROM MOVING PARTS.
CAUTION: When the system is open, cap all open
ends of the hoses, power steering pump fittings or
power steering gear ports to prevent entry of for-
eign material into the components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - POWER STEERING
PUMP INITIAL OPERATION
CAUTION: The fluid level should be checked with
engine off to prevent injury from moving compo-
nents. Use only MoparTPower Steering Fluid (MS-
5931) or approved equivalent. Do not overfill.
Read the fluid level through the side of the power
steering fluid reservoir. The fluid level should indi-
cateªFILL RANGEºwhen the fluid is at a temper-
ature of approximately 21ÉC to 27ÉC (70ÉF to 80ÉF).
(1) Wipe the filler cap and area clean, then remove
the cap.
(2) Fill the fluid reservoir to the proper level and
let the fluid settle for at least two (2) minutes.
(3) Start the engine and let run for a few seconds,
then turn the engine off.
(4) Add fluid if necessary. Repeat the above steps
until the fluid level remains constant after running
the engine.
(5) Raise the front wheels off the ground.
(6) Start the engine.
(7) Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left,
lightly contacting the wheel stops.
(8) Add fluid if necessary.
(9) Lower the vehicle, then turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock-to-lock.
(10) Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and
refill as required.
(11) If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehi-
cle to stabilize a few minutes, then repeat the above
procedure.
REMOVAL - PUMP (2.4L ENGINE)
(1) Remove the (-) negative battery cable from the
battery and isolate cable.
(2) Remove the cap from the power steering fluid
reservoir.
(3) Using a siphon pump, remove as much power
steering fluid as possible from the power steering
fluid reservoir.
(4) Raise the vehicle on jack stands or centered on
a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in Lubrica-
tion and Maintenance.
(5) Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring harness
from the vehicle wiring harness at the rear engine
mount bracket.
NOTE: The exhaust system needs to be removed
from the engine to allow for an area to remove the
power steering pump from the vehicle.
(6) Remove the four bolts and flag nuts securing
the catalytic converter from the exhaust manifold
(Fig. 3).
(7) Disconnect all the exhaust system isolators/
hangers from the brackets on the exhaust system (2
at the mufflers and 1 at the resonator) (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the exhaust system by moving it as far
rearward, then lowering the front below the cross-
member and out of the vehicle.
(9) Remove the power steering fluid supply hose
from the fitting on the power steering pump. Drain
off excess power steering fluid from hose.
Fig. 3 Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold
1 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
2 - BOLT
3 - GASKET
4 - FLAG NUT
RSPUMP19-25
PUMP (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC)
In a standard torque converter, the impeller and
turbine are rotating at about the same speed and the
stator is freewheeling, providing no torque multipli-
cation. By applying the turbine's piston to the front
cover's friction material, a total converter engage-
ment can be obtained. The result of this engagement
is a direct 1:1 mechanical link between the engine
and the transmission.
The engagement and disengagement of the TCC
are automatic and controlled by the Powertrain Con-
trol Module (PCM). The engagement cannot be acti-
vated in the lower gears because it eliminates the
torque multiplication effect of the torque converter
necessary for acceleration. Inputs that determine
clutch engagement are: coolant temperature, vehicle
speed and throttle position. The torque converter
clutch is engaged by the clutch solenoid on the valve
body. The clutch will engage at approximately 56
km/h (35 mph) with light throttle, after the shift to
third gear.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and torque converter
from vehicle. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/AUTOMATIC - 31TH - REMOVAL)
(2) Place a suitable drain pan under the converter
housing end of the transmission.
CAUTION: Verify that transmission is secure on the
lifting device or work surface, the center of gravity
of the transmission will shift when the torque con-
verter is removed creating an unstable condition.
The torque converter is a heavy unit. Use caution
when separating the torque converter from the
transmission.
(3) Pull the torque converter forward until the cen-
ter hub clears the oil pump seal.
(4) Separate the torque converter from the trans-
mission.
INSTALLATION
Check converter hub and drive notches for sharp
edges, burrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub and
notches with 320/400 grit paper or crocus cloth if nec-
essary. The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging
the pump seal at installation.(1) Lubricate converter hub and oil pump seal lip
with transmission fluid.
(2) Place torque converter in position on transmis-
sion.
CAUTION: Do not damage oil pump seal or bushing
while inserting torque converter into the front of the
transmission.
(3) Align torque converter to oil pump seal open-
ing.
(4) Insert torque converter hub into oil pump.
(5) While pushing torque converter inward, rotate
converter until converter is fully seated in the oil
pump gears.
(6) Check converter seating with a scale and
straightedge (Fig. 237). Surface of converter lugs
should be 1/2 in. to rear of straightedge when con-
verter is fully seated.
(7) If necessary, temporarily secure converter with
C-clamp attached to the converter housing.
(8) Install the transmission in the vehicle. (Refer
to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC
- 31TH - INSTALLATION)
(9) Fill the transmission with the recommended
fluid.
Fig. 237 Checking Torque Converter Seating
1 - SCALE
2 - STRAIGHTEDGE
RSAUTOMATIC - 31TH21 - 125
TORQUE CONVERTER (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

VALVE BODY
DESCRIPTION..........................289
OPERATION............................290
REMOVAL.............................290DISASSEMBLY..........................292
ASSEMBLY............................296
INSTALLATION..........................301
AUTOMATIC - 41TE
TRANSAXLE IDENTIFICATION
DESCRIPTION
The 41TE (Fig. 1) is a four-speed transaxle that is
a conventional hydraulic/mechanical assembly with
an integral differential, and is controlled with adap-
tive electronic controls and monitors. The hydraulic
system of the transaxle consists of the transaxle
fluid, fluid passages, hydraulic valves, and various
line pressure control components. An input clutch
assembly which houses the underdrive, overdrive,
and reverse clutches is used. It also utilizes separate
holding clutches: 2nd/4th gear and Low/Reverse. The
primary mechanical components of the transaxle con-
sist of the following:
²Three multiple disc input clutches
²Two multiple disc holding clutches
²Four hydraulic accumulators
²Two planetary gear sets
²Hydraulic oil pump
²Valve body
²Solenoid/Pressure switch assembly
²Integral differential assembly
Control of the transaxle is accomplished by fully
adaptive electronics. Optimum shift scheduling is
accomplished through continuous real-time sensor
feedback information provided to the Transmission
Control Module (TCM).
The TCM is the heart of the electronic control sys-
tem and relies on information from various direct
and indirect inputs (sensors, switches, etc.) to deter-
mine driver demand and vehicle operating condi-
tions. With this information, the TCM can calculate
and perform timely and quality shifts through vari-
ous output or control devices (solenoid pack, trans-
mission control relay, etc.).
The TCM also performs certain self-diagnostic
functions and provides comprehensive information
(sensor data, DTC's, etc.) which is helpful in proper
diagnosis and repair. This information can be viewed
with the DRB scan tool.
The 41TE transaxle identification code is a series
of digits printed on a bar-code label that is fixed to
the transaxle case as shown in (Fig. 2).For example, the identification code K 821 1125
1316 can be broken down as follows:
²K = Kokomo Transmission Plant
²821 = Last three digits of the transaxle part
number
²1125 = Build date
²1316 = Build sequence number
If the tag is not legible or missing, the ªPKº num-
ber, which is stamped into the transaxle case behind
the transfer gear cover, can be referred to for identi-
fication. This number differs slightly in that it con-
tains the entire transaxle part number, rather than
the last three digits.
OPERATION
Transmission output is directed to an integral dif-
ferential by a transfer gear system in the following
input-to-output ratios:
First...............................2.84 : 1
Second.............................1.57 : 1
Third..............................1.00 : 1
Overdrive...........................0.69 : 1
Reverse............................2.21 : 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - 41TE TRANSAXLE
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS
NOTE: Before attempting any repair on a 41TE four-
speed automatic transaxle, check for diagnostic
trouble codes (DTC's) using the DRB scan tool.
Refer to the Transmission Diagnostic Procedures
Manual.
Transaxle malfunctions may be caused by these
general conditions:
²Poor engine performance
²Improper adjustments
²Hydraulic malfunctions
²Mechanical malfunctions
²Electronic malfunctions
Diagnosis of these problems should always begin
by checking the easily accessible variables: fluid level
and condition, gearshift cable adjustment. Then per-
form a road test to determine if the problem has been
corrected or that more diagnosis is necessary. If the
problem persists after the preliminary tests and cor-
rections are completed, hydraulic pressure checks
should be performed.
RSAUTOMATIC - 41TE21 - 159
ProCarManuals.com

EXTERIOR NAME PLATES -
TAPE ATTACHED
REMOVAL
(1) Mark reference points before removing.
(2) Using a heat gun gently apply heat in a circu-
lar motion to loosen the adhesive bond.
(3) Using a nonmetallic prying device, such as a
plastic or wood trim stick gently pry up at corners
and remove.
(4) Clean off all traces of adhesive or double sided
tape from the panel with a general purpose adhesive
remover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean panel surface with isopropy alcohol.
(2) Align badgeing to reference points.
(3) Install and press securely to full adhesive con-
tact
(4) Clean away any reference points.
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES -
ADHESIVE ATTACHED
REMOVAL
(1) Mark reference points before removing.
(2) Using a heat gun gently apply heat in a circu-
lar motion to loosen the adhesive bond.
(3) With your fingernail lift up and peel away
badgeing/tape from panel, using a heat gun as you
go.
(4) Clean off all traces of adhesive from the pan-
el(s) with a general purpose adhesive remover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean panel surface with isopropy alcohol.
(2) Remove paper carrier and align badgeing/tape
to reference points or adjacent panel.
(3) Install and press securely, using a plastic
spreader to eliminate all air bubbles.
(4) Remove top protective carrier.
(5) Clean away any reference points.
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove headlamp housing. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/HEAD-
LAMP UNIT - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove mud guard.
(3) Remove inner splash shield.
(4) Remove fender to fascia nuts.(5) Remove outboard cowl grille/fender bracket
screw.
(6) Remove fender bolt to lower rocker panel.
(7) Remove fender bolt to lower cowl.
(8) Pull fascia away from fender.
(9) Remove bolts attaching fender to upper rail.
(10) Remove fender from vehicle (Fig. 8).
INSTALLATION
(1) Place fender in position on vehicle.
(2) From inside engine compartment, start the
center upper rail bolt. install all the bolts attaching
fender to upper rail and tighten.
(3) Install fender to lower cowl panel bolt.
(4) Install fender to rocker panel bolt.
(5) Place fascia into position.
(6) Install outboard cowl grille/fender bracket
screw.
(7) Install fender to fascia nuts.
(8) Install inner splash shield.
(9) Install mud guard.
(10) Install headlamp assembly. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
HEADLAMP UNIT - INSTALLATION)
(11) Check fender for flush and gap.
FUEL FILL DOOR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove left quarter trim panel.
Fig. 8 Fender
1 - FASTENERS
2 - FENDER
3 - FASTENERS
RSEXTERIOR23 - 191
ProCarManuals.com

Performance Temperature and Pressure
Ambient Temperature 21É C
(70É F)27É C
(80É F)32É C
(90É F)38É C
(100É F)43É C
(110É F)
Left Center Panel
Outlet Discharge Air
Temperature1to8ÉC
(34 to 46É F)3to9ÉC
(37 to 49É F)4 to 10ÉC
(39 to 50É F)6to11ÉC
(43 to 52É F)7 to 18É C
(45 to 65É F)
Discharge Pressure
(High Side Service
Port)1034 to 1724
kPa
(150 to 250
psi)1517 to 2275
kPa
(220 to 330
psi)1999 to 2620
kPa
(290 to 380
psi)2068 to 2965
kPa
(300 to 430
psi)2275 to 3421
kPa
(330 to 450 psi)
Suction Pressure (Low
Side Service Port)103 to 207 kPa
(15 to 30 psi)117 to 221 kPa
(17 to 32 psi)138 to 241 kPa
(20 to 35 psi)172 to 269 kPa
(25 to 39 psi)207 to 345 kPa
(30 to 50 psi)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATER
PERFORMANCE TEST
PRE-DIAGNOSTIC PREPARATIONS
WARNING: REFER TO THE APPLICABLE WARN-
INGS AND CAUTIONS FOR THIS SYSTEM BEFORE
PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING OPERATION.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING FRONT - WARNING - HEATER PLUMB-
ING).
Check the coolant level, drive belt tension, radiator
air flow, and cooling fan operation. Start the engine
and allow it to warm up to normal temperature.
MAXIMUM HEATER OUTPUT: TEST AND ACTION
Engine coolant is provided to the heater system by
two 16 mm (5/8 inch inside diameter) heater hoses.
With the engine idling at normal running tempera-
ture, set the heater-A/C controls as follows. Temper-
ature control to full Heat, Mode control to Floor,
Blower control to the highest speed setting. Using a
test thermometer, check the air temperature coming
from the center floor outlets and compare this read-
ing to the Temperature Reference table.
TEMPERATURE REFERENCE
AMBIENT
TEMPERATUREMINIMUM FLOOR
OUTLET TEMPERATURE
CELSIUS FAHRENHEIT CELSIUS FAHRENHEIT
15.5É 60É 62.2É 144É
21.1É 70É 63.8É 147É
26.6É 80É 65.5É 150É
32.2É 90É 67.2É 153ÉIf the floor outlet air temperature is insufficient,
check that the cooling system is operating to specifi-
cations. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNO-
SIS AND TESTING). Both heater hoses should be
HOT to the touch (the coolant return hose should be
slightly cooler than the supply hose). If the coolant
return hose is much cooler than the supply hose,
locate and repair the engine coolant flow obstruction
in heater system.
POSSIBLE LOCATIONS OR CAUSE OF OBSTRUCTED
COOLANT FLOW
²Pinched or kinked heater hoses.
²Improper heater hose routing.
²Plugged heater hoses or supply and return ports
at cooling system connections.
²Plugged heater core.
²Air locked heater core.
²Restrictor in backwards.
If coolant flow is verified and the heater floor out-
let temperature is insufficient, a mechanical problem
may exist.
POSSIBLE LOCATION OR CAUSE OF INSUFFICIENT HEAT
²Obstructed cowl air intake.
²Obstructed heater system outlets.
²Blend-air door not functioning properly.
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
If heater floor outlet temperature cannot be
adjusted with the heater-A/C control temperature
control lever, one of the following could require ser-
vice:
²Blend-air door binding.
²Faulty blend-air door motor.
²Improper engine coolant temperature.
²Faulty heater-A/C control.
24 - 6 HEATING & AIR CONDITIONINGRS
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MOD-
ULES/POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE -
DESCRIPTION - PCM OPERATION).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH AIR GAP
If a new clutch plate and/or clutch pulley are being
used, the air gap between the clutch plate and clutch
pulley must be checked using the following proce-
dure:
(1) Using feeler gauges, measure the air gap
between the clutch plate and the clutch pulley fric-
tion surfaces.
(2) If the air gap is not between 0.5 and 0.9 mm
(0.020 and 0.035 in.), add or subtract shims until the
desired air gap is obtained.
NOTE: The shims may compress after tightening
the compressor shaft bolt. Check the air gap in four
or more places on the clutch plate to verify that the
air gap is still correct. Spin the clutch pulley before
making the final air gap check.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH BREAK-IN
After a new compressor clutch has been installed,
check that the compressor clutch coil is performing to
specifications. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CON-
DITIONING/CONTROLS - FRONT/COMPRESSOR
CLUTCH COIL - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). If
the clutch coil is performing to specifications, per-
form the compressor clutch break-in procedure. This
procedure (burnishing) will seat the opposing friction
surfaces and provide a higher compressor clutch
torque capability.
(1) Set the heater-A/C controls to the A/C mode,
with the blower switch in the highest speed position.
(2) Start the engine and hold the engine speed at
1500 to 2000 rpm.
(3) Cycle the compressor clutch On and Off about
twenty times (five seconds On, then five seconds Off).
REMOVAL
The refrigerant system can remain fully charged
during compressor clutch, pulley, or coil replacement.
Although the compressor assembly must be removed
from its mounting, the compressor clutch can be ser-
vice with the compressor in the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
2.4L - REMOVAL) or (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - 3.3/3.8L - REMOV-
AL).
(4) Disconnect the engine wire harness connector
for the compressor clutch coil from the clutch coil pig-
tail wire connector on the top of the compressor.
(5) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines, dis-
engage the retainer on the engine wire harness com-
pressor clutch coil take out from the bracket on the
top of the compressor.
(6) On models with the 2.4L engine, remove all of
the compressor mounting screws except the upper
left (rear of the compressor) screw, which should only
be loosened. Allow the front (pulley end) of the com-
pressor to tilt downward far enough to access the
clutch for removal, then tighten the loosened upper
left compressor mounting screw.
(7) On models with the 3.3L and 3.8L engines,
remove the three screws and one nut that secure the
compressor to the engine. Disengage the mounting
ear at the front of the compressor from the stud on
the engine, allow the front (pulley end) of the com-
pressor to tilt downward far enough to access the
clutch for removal, then reinstall and tighten the
upper left compressor mounting screw.
(8) Remove the compressor shaft bolt (Fig. 13). If
necessary, a band-type oil filter wrench or a strap
wrench can be placed around the clutch plate to aid
in bolt removal.
(9) Tap the clutch plate lightly with a plastic ham-
mer and remove the clutch plate and shim(s) from
Fig. 13 Compressor Shaft Bolt and Clutch Plate
1 - COMPRESSOR SHAFT BOLT
2 - COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE
24 - 18 CONTROLS - FRONTRS
COMPRESSOR CLUTCH (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com