
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
7. Loose strut mount to body
attachment7. Tighten strut attachment to specified
torque
8. Loose crossmember bolts 8. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
4. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount
2. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque
4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint
5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint
6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing
7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end
Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure
2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe
3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing
4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing
5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear
6. Excessive friction in steering shaft
coupling6. Replace steering coupler
7. Excessive friction in strut upper
bearing7. Replace strut bearing
Lateral Pull 1. Unequal tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Radial tire lead 2. Perform lead correction procedure
3. Incorrect front wheel camber 3. Check and reset front wheel camber
4. Power steering gear imbalance 4. Replace power steering gear
5. Wheel braking 5. Correct braking condition causing
lateral pull
2 - 50 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Excessive Steering Free
Play1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment 1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Worn or loose tie rod ends 2. Replace or tighten tie rod ends
3. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 3. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque
4. Loose or worn steering shaft coupler 4. Replace steering shaft coupler
Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Lack of lubricant in steering gear 2. Replace steering gear
3. Low power steering fluid level 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
correct level
4. Loose power steering pump drive
belt4. Correctly adjust power steering pump
drive belt
5. Lack of lubricant in ball joints 5. Lubricate or replace ball joints
6. Steering gear malfunction 6. Replace steering gear
7. Lack of lubricant in steering coupler 7. Replace steering coupler
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to ensure proper
alignment.
(1) Verify that the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect
the curb height of the vehicle and the alignment
angles.
(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac-
tory equipment.
(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. All tires must be
the same size and in good condition with approxi-
mately the same amount of tread wear. Inflate all
the tires to the recommended air pressure.
(4) Check the front wheel and tire assemblies for
excessive radial runout.
(5) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering link-
age for looseness, binding, wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
(6) Check suspension fasteners for proper torque
and retighten as necessary.
(7) Inspect all suspension component rubber bush-
ings for signs of wear or deterioration. Replace any
faulty bushings or components before aligning the
vehicle.
(8) Check the vehicle's curb height to verify it is
within specifications. Refer to Curb Height Measure-
ment.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP
(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.
(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle per the alignment equipment manufactur-
er's instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel align-
ment is recommended.
NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle's alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
(3) Read the vehicle's current front and rear align-
ment settings. Compare the vehicle's current align-
ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) If front camber and caster are not within spec-
ifications, proceed to CAMBER AND CASTER below.
If caster and camber are within specifications, pro-
ceed to TOE which can be found following CAMBER
AND CASTER. Rear camber, caster and toe are not
adjustable. If found not to be within specifications,
reinspect for damaged suspension or body compo-
nents and replace as necessary.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Camber and caster settings on this vehicle are
determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle's suspension components.
This is referred to as NET BUILD. The result is no
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
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CAUTION: After slotting the strut clevis bracket
hole, do not install the original attaching bolts when
assembling the steering knuckle to the strut assem-
bly. Only the flange bolts, cam bolts, and dog bone
washers from the service package must be used to
attach the steering knuckle to the strut after the
mounting hole is slotted.
(5) Position the knuckle back into the strut clevis
bracket. Install a flanged bolt from the service pack-
age into the upper mounting hole. Install a cam bolt
into the bottom mounting hole. Both bolts should
point forward once installed (Fig. 9).
(6) Install a dog bone washer on the steering
knuckle to strut clevis bracket attaching bolts, then
install the nuts onto the bolts from the service pack-
age (Fig. 10). Tighten the bolts just enough to hold
the steering knuckle in position when adjusting cam-
ber, while still allowing the steering knuckle to move
in clevis bracket.
(7) Repeat the procedure to the other side strut
clevis bracket.
(8) Reinstall both front tire and wheel assemblies
and tighten to specifications.
(9) Lower the vehicle. Jounce the front and rear of
vehicle an equal amount of times.
(10) Adjust the front camber to the preferred set-
ting by rotating the lower eccentric cam bolt against
the cam stop areas on the strut clevis bracket (Fig.
11). When camber is set, tighten the upper strut cle-
vis bracket bolt and lower cam bolt. Again jounce
front and rear of vehicle an equal amount of times
and verify front camber setting. Torque both frontstrut to steering knuckle attaching bolts to 81 N´m
(60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 1/4 (90É) turn after the
required torque is met.
(11) If toe readings obtained are not within the
required specification range, adjust toe to meet the
preferred specification setting. Toe is adjustable
using the following procedure.
TOE
(1) Center the steering wheel and lock in place
using a steering wheel clamp.
Fig. 9 Package Bolts Correctly Installed (Left Side
Shown)
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - FLANGED BOLT IN TOP HOLE
3 - CAM BOLT IN BOTTOM HOLE
4 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
Fig. 10 Dog Bone Washer And Nuts Installed
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - DOG BONE WASHER
3 - STRUT CLEVIS BRACKET
4 - ATTACHING NUTS
Fig. 11 Camber Adjustment Cam Bolt
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - CLEVIS BRACKET CAM STOP AREAS
3 - LOWER ECCENTRIC CAMBER ADJUSTMENT BOLT
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-53
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(7) Install steering knuckle in clevis bracket of
strut damper assembly. Install the strut damper to
steering knuckle attaching bolts. Tighten both bolts
to a torque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional
1/4 turn.
(8) Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start
attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding
stud of tie rod end stationary using a socket, (Fig. 6)
tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut.
Then using a crowfoot and socket (Fig. 13), tighten
the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 75 N´m
(55 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install braking disc on hub and bearing assem-
bly.
(10) Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering
knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of
caliper assembly under abutment on steering
knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top
abutment.
(11) Install disc brake caliper adapter to steering
knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 4). Tighten the disc
brake caliper adapter attaching bolts to a torque of
169 N´m (125 ft. lbs.).(12) Clean all foreign matter from the threads of
the outer CV joint. Install the washer and half shaft
to hub/bearing assembly nut on half shaft and
securely tighten nut.
(13) Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install
and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper
sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the
required specification. Then repeat the tightening
sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub
from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244
N´m (180 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 14).
(16) Install the spring wave washer on the end of
the half shaft.
(17) Install the hub nut lock, and anewcotter pin
(Fig. 2). Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the
hub nut lock as shown in (Fig. 2).
(18) Check for correct fluid level in transaxle
assembly. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/AUTOMATIC - 41TE/FLUID - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
(19) Set front toe on vehicle to required specifica-
tion.
Fig. 13 Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
1 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - TIE ROD END
3 - CROWFOOT
4 - SOCKET
5 - TORQUE WRENCHFig. 14 Torquing Front Half Shaft To Hub Nut
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
3 - 6 HALF SHAFT - FRONTRS
HALF SHAFT - FRONT (Continued)
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SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - HALF SHAFT - FRONT
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Bolts, Caliper Adapter to Knuckle 169 125 -
Nut, Hub 244 180 -
Nuts, Front Wheel Lug 135 100 -
Nut, Tie Rod End to Knuckle 75 55 -
Nut, Strut Clevis to Knuckle 81 +90É 60 +90É -
CV BOOT - INNER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the half shaft requiring boot replace-
ment from the vehicle. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL
& DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove large boot clamp which retains inner
tripod joint sealing boot to tripod joint housing and
discard.
(3) Remove small clamp which retains inner tripod
joint sealing boot to interconnecting shaft and dis-
card.
(4) Remove the sealing boot from the tripod hous-
ing and slide it down the interconnecting shaft.
CAUTION: When removing the tripod joint housing
from the spider assembly, hold the bearings in
place on the spider trunions to prevent the bearings
from falling away.
(5) Slide the tripod joint housing off the spider
assembly and the interconnecting shaft (Fig. 15).
(6) Remove snap-ring which retains spider assem-
bly to interconnecting shaft (Fig. 16).Do not hit the
outer tripod bearings in an attempt to remove
spider assembly from interconnecting shaft.
(7) Remove the spider assembly from interconnect-
ing shaft. If spider assembly will not come off inter-
connecting shaft by hand, it can be removed by
tapping spider assembly with a brass drift (Fig. 17).(8) Slide sealing boot off interconnecting shaft.
(9) Thoroughly clean and inspect spider assembly,
tripod joint housing, and interconnecting shaft for
any signs of excessive wear.If any parts show
signs of excessive wear, the half shaft assembly
will require replacement. Component parts of
these half shaft assemblies are not serviceable.
Fig. 15 Spider Assembly Removal from Tripod Joint
Housing
1 - TRIPOD JOINT HOUSING
2 - SPIDER ASSEMBLY
3 - SEALING BOOT
RSHALF SHAFT - FRONT3-7
HALF SHAFT - FRONT (Continued)
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HALF SHAFT - REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT - REAR
DESCRIPTION...........................16
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................16
HALF SHAFT..........................16
REMOVAL..............................16INSTALLATION...........................17
SPECIFICATIONS........................18
CV BOOT - INNER/OUTER
REMOVAL..............................18
INSTALLATION...........................20
HALF SHAFT - REAR
DESCRIPTION
The inner and outer joints of both half shaft
assemblies are tripod joints. The tripod joints are
true constant velocity (CV) joint assemblies, which
allow for the changes in half shaft length through
the jounce and rebound travel of the rear suspension.
On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer
CV joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to deter-
mine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.
The inner tripod joint of both half shafts is bolted
rear differential assembly's output flanges. The outer
CV joint has a stub shaft that is splined into the
wheel hub and retained by a steel hub nut.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT
VEHICLE INSPECTION
(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard
tripod joint and outboard CV joint; this is a sign of
inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp dam-
age.
(2) A light film of grease may appear on the right
inner tripod joint seal boot; this is considered normal
and should not require replacement of the seal boot.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could
be caused by one of the following conditions:
²Damaged outer CV or inner tripod joint seal
boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss
and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint.
²Noise may also be caused by another component
of the vehicle coming in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of one of the following
conditions:²A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of the
half shaft assembly.
²A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer
joint of the half shaft assembly.
²A damaged or worn half shaft CV joint.
SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of:
²A worn or damaged half shaft inner tripod joint.
²A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner tri-
pod joint only).
²Improper wheel alignment. (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of:
²Foreign material (mud, etc.) packed on the back-
side of the wheel(s).
²Out of balance tires or wheels. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
²Improper tire and/or wheel runout. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
REMOVAL
(1) Lift vehicle on hoist so that the wheels hang
freely.
(2) Remove rear wheel.
(3) Remove cotter pin, nut lock, and wave washer
(Fig. 1).
(4) Remove hub nut and washer.
CAUTION: The half shaft outer CV joint, when
installed, acts as a bolt and secures the hub/bear-
ing assembly. If the vehicle is to be supported or
moved on its wheels, install and torque a bolt
through the hub. This will ensure that the hub/bear-
ing assembly cannot loosen.
(5) Remove inner half shaft retaining bolts (Fig. 2).
3 - 16 HALF SHAFT - REARRS
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(6) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and pull downward to clear
rear differential output flange. Then pull half shaft
assembly outward to remove (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the outer CV joint stub shaft through
the hub bearing (Fig. 4).
(2) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and push upward until the
inner CV joint flange engages the rear differential
output flange.(3) Install the inner half shaft retaining bolts (Fig.
5). Torque the bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft.lbs.).
(4) Install the half shaft washer and hub nut.
Torque the hub nut to 244 N´m (180 ft.lbs.).
(5) Install the wave washer, nut lock, and a new
cotter pin (Fig. 6). Be sure to wrap the cotter pin
prongs tightly around the hub nut lock.
(6) Install rear wheel. Torque the lug nuts to 135
N´m (100 ft.lbs.).
Fig. 1 Cotter Pin, Nut Lock, And Wave Washer
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - WAVE WASHER
Fig. 2 Inner Half Shaft Bolts
1 - SHAFT
2 - FLANGE
Fig. 3 Half Shaft Removal
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
Fig. 4 Half Shaft Installation
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
RSHALF SHAFT - REAR3-17
HALF SHAFT - REAR (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS - HALF SHAFT - FRONT
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Nut, Hub 244 180 -
Nuts, Rear Wheel Lug 135 100 -
Bolt, Half Shaft to Output Flange 61 45 -
CV BOOT - INNER/OUTER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove half shaft from vehicle. (Refer to 3 -
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT -
REMOVAL)
(2) Clamp the half shaft into a suitable vise with
protective jaws clamped onto the interconnecting
shaft (Fig. 7).
(3) Remove the large and small diameter retaining
clamps holding the CV boot to the CV joint and the
interconnecting shaft (Fig. 8).
(4) Pull the boot back from the CV joint (Fig. 9).
(5) Remove the CV housing from the interconnect-
ing shaft and tripod assembly (Fig. 10).
(6) Remove the snap-ring holding the tripod
assembly onto the interconnecting shaft (Fig. 11).
Fig. 5 Inner Half Shaft Bolts
1 - SHAFT
2 - FLANGE
Fig. 6 Cotter Pin, Nut Lock, And Wave Washer
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - WAVE WASHER
Fig. 7 Clamp Shaft In Soft Jawed Vice
1 - HALF SHAFT BOOT
2 - HALF SHAFT
3 - VISE
3 - 18 HALF SHAFT - REARRS
HALF SHAFT - REAR (Continued)
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