
4D2–2
TRANSFER CASE (TOD)
Transfer Case Assembly
Removal
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Legend
(1) Front Propeller Shaft
(2) Front Console
(3) Transfer Control Lever
(4) Selector Lever Assembly
(5) Transfer Connector
(6) Wiring Harness Connector(7) Exhaust Pipe
(8) Rear Propeller Shaft
(9) Seat Belt Tension Rod
(10) Transfer Case Bolt
(11) Transfer Protector
(12) Breather Hose
(13) Transfer Case
1. Disconnect the ground cable.
2. Remove the transfer protector.
3. Remove the rear propeller shaft from the transfer
case.
4. Remove the front propeller shaft from the transfer
case.
5. Remove the shift control rod from the select lever
assembly.

4D2–3 TRANSFER CASE (TOD)
6. Disconnect the wiring harness connector and shift
lock cable and then remove the front console.
7 . R e m o v e t h e s e l e c t o r l e v e r a s s e m b ly a n d p u t i t a s i d e .
8. Remove the transfer control lever.
9. Disconnect the breather hose.
10. Remove the left front exhaust pipe fixing bolts and
nuts, and put the exhaust pipe aside.
11. Remove the left seat belt tension rod and put the rear
proper shaft aside.
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12. Remove the silencer.
13. Disconnect the transfer connector from the top of the
transfer case.
14. Disconnect the speed sensor harness connector.
15. Remove the fuel pipe clip fixing bolt on the transfer
case.
16. Support the transmission with a jack.
17. Remove the seven bolts from the transfer case.
18. Remove transfer case assembly.
Installation
To install, follow the removal steps in the reverse order,
nothing the following points:
1. Apply a thin coat of grease (Besco L2) or equivalent to
the input shaft spline.
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2. Mount the transfer case.

4D2–7 TRANSFER CASE (TOD)
TOD ECU
Removal
1. Disconnect the ground cable.
2. Move the right-hand seat forward and remove the
second seat foot rest (1).
3. Disconnect the connector from the ECU (2).
4. Remove the bolts and detach the ECU (2) from the
bracket.
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Installation
1. Perform the removal step in reverse order.

5A–5 BRAKE CONTROL SYSTEM
FR
Front Right
GEN
Generator
MV
Millivolts
RL
Rear Left
RR
Rear RightRPS
Revolution per Second
VDC
Vo l t s D C
VA C
Vo l t s A C
W/L
Warning Light
WSS
Wheel Speed Sensor
General Diagnosis
General Information
ABS malfunction can be classified into two types, those
which can be detected by the ABS warning light and those
which can be detected as a vehicle abnormality by the
driver.
In either case, locate the fault in accordance with the
“BASIC DIAGNOSTIC FLOWCHART” and repair.
Please refer to Section 5C for the diagnosis of
mechanical troubles such as brake noise, brake judder
(brake pedal or vehicle vibration felt when braking),
uneven braking, and parking brake trouble.
ABS Service Precautions
Required Tools and Items:
Box Wrench
Brake Fluid
Special Tool
Some diagnosis procedures in this section require the
installation of a special tool.
J-39200 High Impedance Multimeter
When circuit measurements are requested, use a circuit
tester with high impedance.
Computer System Service Precautions
The Anti-lock Brake System interfaces directly with the
Electronic Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) which is a
control computer that is similar in some regards to the
Powertrain Control Module. These modules are designed
to withstand normal current draws associated with
vehicle operation. However, care must be taken to avoid
overloading any of the EHCU circuits. In testing for opens
or shorts, do not ground or apply voltage to any of the
circuits unless instructed to do so by the appropriate
diagnostic procedure. These circuits should only be
tested with a high impedance multimeter (J-39200) or
special tools as described in this section. Power should
never be removed or applied to any control module with
the ignition in the “ON” position.
Before removing or connecting battery cables, fuses or
connectors, always turn the ignition switch to the “OFF”
position.
General Service Precautions
The following are general precautions which should be
observed when servicing and diagnosing the Anti-lock
Brake System and/or other vehicle systems. Failure toobserve these precautions may result in Anti-lock Brake
System damage.
If welding work is to be performed on the vehicle using
an electric arc welder, the EHCU and valve block
connectors should be disconnected before the
welding operation begins.
The EHCU and valve block connectors should never
be connected or disconnected with the ignition “ON” .
EHCU of the Anti-lock Brake System are not
separately serviceable and must be replaced as
assemblies. Do not disassemble any component
which is designated as non-serviceable in this
Section.
If only rear wheels are rotated using jacks or drum
tester, the system will diagnose a speed sensor
malfunction and the “ABS” warning light will
illuminate. But actually no trouble exists. After
inspection stop the engine once and re-start it, then
make sure that the “ABS” warning light does not
illuminate.
If the battery has been discharged
The engine may stall if the battery has been completely
discharged and the engine is started via jumper cables.
This is because the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
requires a large quantity of electricity. In this case, wait
until the battery is recharged, or set the ABS to a
non-operative state by removing the fuse for the ABS
(40A). After the battery has been recharged, stop the
engine and install the ABS fuse. Start the engine again,
and confirm that the ABS warning light does not light.
Note on Intermittents
As with virtually any electronic system, it is difficult to
identify an intermittent failure. In such a case duplicating
the system malfunction during a test drive or a good
description of vehicle behavior from the customer may be
helpful in locating a “most likely” failed component or
circuit. The symptom diagnosis chart may also be useful
in isolating the failure. Most intermittent problems are
caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring. When
an intermittent failure is encountered, check suspect
circuits for:
Suspected harness damage.
Poor mating of connector halves or terminals not fully
seated in the connector body (backed out).
Improperly formed or damaged terminals.

6A–5
ENGINE MECHANICAL
4. Engine Lacks Compression
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Engine lacks compressionSpark plug loosely fitted or spark
plug gasket defectiveTighten to specified torque or replace
gasket
Valve timing incorrectAdjust
Cylinder head gasket defectiveReplace gasket
Valve incorrectly seatedLap valve
Valve stem seizedReplace valve and valve guide
Valve spring weakened or brokenReplace
Cylinder or piston rings wornOverhaul engine
Piston ring seizedOverhaul engine.
Engine Compression Test Procedure
1. Start and run the engine until the engine reaches
normal operating temperature.
2. Turn the engine off.
3. Remove all the spark plugs.
4. Remove ignition coil fuse (15A) and disable the
ignition system.
5. Remove the fuel pump relay from the relay and fuse
box.
6. Engage the starter and check that the cranking speed
is approximately 300 rpm.7. Install cylinder compression gauge into spark plug
hole.
8. With the throttle valve opened fully, keep the starter
engaged until the compression gage needle reaches
the maximum level. Note the reading.
9. Repeat the test with each cylinder.
If the compression pressure obtained falls below the
limit, engine overhaul is necessary.
Limit; 1000 kPa (145 psi)

6A–7
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Condition CorrectionPossible cause
OthersEngine lacks compressionRefer to “Hard Start”
Valve incorrectly seatedLap valve
Air Cleaner Filter cloggedReplace filter element
Valve timing incorrectReadjust
Idle air control valve brokenReplace
Fast idle solenoid defectiveReplace
Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve
defective or cloggedReplace
Rough Engine Running
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Engine misfires periodicallyIgnition coil layer shortedReplace
Spark plugs foulingClean or install hotter type plug
Spark plug(s) insulator nose leakingReplace
Fuel injector(s) defectiveReplace
Powertrain control module faultyReplace
Engine knocks periodicallySpark plugs running too hotInstall colder type spark plugs
Powertrain control module faultyReplace
Engine lacks powerSpark plugs fouledClean
Fuel injectors defectiveReplace
Mass Airflow Sensor or Intake
Airflow Sensor circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Sensor or Manifold Absolute
Pressure Sensor circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
or Engine Coolant Temperature
Sensor circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Powertrain Control Module faultyReplace
Intake Air Temperature Sensor or
Intake Air Temperature Sensor
circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Throttle Position Sensor or Throttle
Position Sensor circuit defectiveCorrect or replace
Knock Sensor or Knock Sensor
circuits defectiveCorrect or replace
Knock Sensor Module or Knock
Sensor Module circuits defectiveCorrect or replace

6A–12
ENGINE MECHANICAL
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Noise from connecting rods or from
connecting rod bearings
(Faulty connecting rods orBearing or crankshaft pin wornReplace connecting rod bearings
and crankshaft or regrind crankshaft
pin and install the undersize bearing
yg
connecting rod bearings usually
make an abnormal noise slightly
higher than the crank bearing noise,
which becomes more evident when
Crankpin out of roundReplace connecting rod bearings
and crankshaft or regrind crankshaft
pin and install the undersize bearing
which becomes more evident when
engine is accelerated)Connecting rod bentCorrect or replaceg)
Connecting rod bearing seizedReplace connecting rod bearings
and crankshaft or regrind crankshaft
pin and install the undersize bearing
Troubleshooting Procedure
Abnormal noise stops when the spark plug on the cylinder
with defective part is shorted out.
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Piston and cylinder noise
(Faulty piston or cylinder usually
kbidhil
Piston clearance increased due to
cylinder wearReplace piston and cylinder body
makes a combined mechanical
thumping noise which increasesPiston seizedReplace piston and cylinder bodyg
when engine is suddenly accelerated
but diminishes
gradually as thePiston ring brokenReplace piston and cylinder bodybut diminishes gradually as the
engine warms up)Piston defectiveReplace pistons and others
Troubleshooting Procedure
Short out each spark plug and listen for change in engine
noise.
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Piston pin noise
(Piston makes noise each time it
goes up and down)Piston pin or piston pin hole wornReplace piston, piston pin and
connecting rod assy
Troubleshooting Procedure
The slapping sound stops when spark plug on bad
cylinder is shorted out.
Condition
Possible causeCorrection
Timing belt noiseTiming belt tension is incorrectReplace pusher or adjust the tension
pulley or replace timing belt
Tensioner bearing defectiveReplace
Timing belt defectiveReplace
Timing pulley defectiveReplace
Timing belt comes in contact with
timing coverReplace timing belt and timing cover
Valve noiseValve clearance incorrectReplace adjusting shim
Valve and valve guide seizedReplace valve and valve guide
Valve spring broken or weakenedReplace
Valve seat off–positionedCorrect
Camshaft worn outReplace
Crankshaft noiseCrankshaft end play excessive
(noise occurs when clutch is
engaged)Replace thrust bearing

6A–14
ENGINE MECHANICAL
Condition CorrectionPossible cause
Trouble in emission control systemHeated Oxygen Sensor circuit openCorrect or replace
Heated Oxygen Sensor defectiveReplace
Signal vacuum hose loosely fitted or
defectiveCorrect or replace
EGR Valve circuit open or shortedCorrect or replace
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
defectiveReplace
ECT Sensor circuit open or shortedCorrect or replace
Canister Purge Valve circuit open or
shortedCorrect or replace
Canister Purge Valve defectiveReplace
ECT Sensor defectiveReplace
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
(PCV) valve and hose cloggedCorrect or replace
Evaporator systemRefer to Section 6E
Trouble in ignition system————Refer to “Engine Lacks Power”
Trouble in cylinder head partsCarbon deposits in combustion
chamberRemove carbon
Carbon deposit on valve, valve seat
and valve guideRemove carbon
Engine Oil Consumption Excessive
ConditionPossible causeCorrection
Oil leakingOil pan drain plug looseRetighten or replace gasket
Crankcase fixing bolts loosenedRetighten
Oil pan setting bolts loosenedRetighten
Oil pan gasket brokenReplace gasket
Front cover retaining bolts loose or
gasket brokenRetighten or replace gasket
Head cover fixing bolts loose or
gasket brokenRetighten or replace gasket
Oil cooler adapter crackedReplace
Oil cooler center bolt looseRetighten
Oil cooler O–ring brokenReplace
Oil cooler piping loose or brokenRetighten or replace
Oil filter adapter crackedReplace
Oil filter attaching bolt loose or rubber
gasket brokenRetighten or replace oil filter
Oil cooler brokenReplace
Crankshaft front or rear oil seal
defectiveReplace oil seal
Oil pressure unit loose or brokenRetighten or replace
Blow–by gas hose brokenReplace hose
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve
cloggedClean
Engine/Transmission coupling failedReplace oil seal