1998 MITSUBISHI MONTERO head
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Ignition switch faulty Adjust or replace
or misadjusted ignition switch
Open circuit between Check and repair wires
starter switch ignition and connections as
terminal on starter relay necessary
Starter relay or starter See Testing in STARTER
defective article
Open solenoid pull-in See Testing in STARTER
wire article
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Starter Does Not Weak battery or dead Charge or replace
Operate and cell battery as necessary
Headlights Dim
Loose or corroded battery Check that battery
connections connections are clean
and tight
Internal ground in See Testing in STARTER
starter windings article
Grounded starter fields See Testing in STARTERS
Armature rubbing on pole See STARTER article
shoes
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Starter Turns Starter clutch slipping See STARTER article
but Engine
Does Not Rotate
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Pinion shaft rusted or See STARTER article
dry
Engine basic timing See Ignition Timing in
incorrect TUNE-UP article
Broken teeth on engine Replace flywheel and
flywheel check for starter pinion
gear damage
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Starter Will Not Faulty overrunning See STARTER article
Crank Engine clutch
Broken clutch housing See STARTER article
Broken flywheel teeth Replace flywheel and
check for starter pinion
gear damage
Armature shaft sheared See STARTER article
or reduction gear teeth
stripped
Weak battery Charge or replace
battery as necessary
Faulty solenoid See On-Vehicle Tests in
STARTER article
Poor grounds Check all ground
Page 1399 of 1501
Excessive cylinder wear Rebore or replace
block
Excessive valve guide Worn or loose bearing
clearance
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Gap Bridged Deposits in combustion Clean combustion
chamber becoming fused chamber of deposits
to electrode
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Blistered Engine overheating Check cooling system
Electrode
Wrong type of fuel Replace with correct
fuel
Loose spark plugs Retighten spark plugs
Over-advanced ignition Reset ignition timing
timing see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
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Pre-Ignition or Incorrect type of fuel Replace with correct
Melted Electrodes fuel
Incorrect ignition timing Reset ignition timing
see ENGINE PERFORMANCE
Burned valves Replace valves
Engine Overheating Check cooling system
Wrong type of spark plug, Replace with correct
too hot spark plug, see
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
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Chipped Severe detonation Check for over-
Insulators advanced timing or
combustion
Improper gapping Re-gap spark plugs
procedure
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Rust Colored Additives in unleaded Try different fuel
Deposits fuel brand
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Water In Combus- Blown head gasket or Repair or replace
tion Chamber cracked head head or head gasket
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NOTE: Before diagnosing an electronic ignition system, ensure that
all wiring is connected properly between distributor, wiring
connector and spark plugs. Ignition problem will show up
either as: Engine Will Not Start or Engine Runs Rough.
BASIC ELECTRONIC IGNITION TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION \
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Engine Won't Open circuit between Repair circuit
Start distributor and bulkhead
connector
Open circuit between Repair circuit
bulkhead connector and
Page 1419 of 1501
Free play in steering See STEERING COLUMN
shaft bearing article
Bearing loose on shaft See STEERING COLUMN
serrations article
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Clicking Noise Pump slippers too long See POWER STEERING PUMP
in Pump article
Broken slipper springs See POWER STEERING PUMP
article
Excessive wear or nicked See POWER STEERING PUMP
rotors article
Damaged cam contour See POWER STEERING PUMP
article
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Poor Return of Wheel rubbing against See STEERING COLUMN
Wheel turn signal SWITCHES article
Flange rubbing steering See STEERING COLUMN
gear adjuster article
Tight or frozen steering See STEERING COLUMN
shaft bearing article
Steering gear out of See POWER STEERING GEAR
adjustment article
Sticking or plugged See POWER STEERING PUMP
spool valve article
Improper front end See WHEEL ALIGNMENT
alignment article
Wheel bearings worn or See FRONT SUSPENSION
loose article
Ties rods or ball joints Check and replace if
binding necessary
Intermediate shaft joints See STEERING COLUMN
binding article
Kinked pressure hoses Correct or replace if
necessary
Loose housing head See POWER STEERING GEAR
spanner nut article
Damaged valve lever See POWER STEERING GEAR
article
Sector shaft adjusted See ADJUSTMENTS in POWER
too tight STEERING GEAR article
Worm thrust bearing See ADJUSTMENTS in POWER
adjusted too tight STEERING GEAR article
Reaction ring sticking See POWER STEERING GEAR
in cylinder article
Page 1420 of 1501
Reaction ring sticking See POWER STEERING GEAR
in housing head article
Steering pump internal See POWER STEERING PUMP
leakage article
Steering gear-to-column See STEERING COLUMN
misalignment article
Lack of lubrication in Service front suspension
linkage
Lack of lubrication in Service front suspension
ball joints
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Increased Effort High internal pump leakage See POWER STEERING PUMP
When Turning article
Wheel Fast Power steering pump belt Adjust or replace if
Foaming, Milky slipping necessary
Power Steering
Fluid, Low Fluid Low fluid level Check and fill to
Level or Low proper level
Pressure
Engine idle speed to low Adjust to correct
setting
Air in pump fluid system See POWER STEERING PUMP
article
Pump output low See POWER STEERING PUMP
article
Steering gear See POWER STEERING GEAR
malfunctioning article
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Wheel Surges Low fluid level Check and fill to proper
or Jerks level
Loose fan belt Adjust or replace if
necessary
Insufficient pump See POWER STEERING PUMP
pressure article
Sticky flow control valve See POWER STEERING PUMP
article
Linkage hitting oil pan Replace bent components
at full turn
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Kick Back or Air in pump fluid system See POWER STEERING PUMP
Free Play article
Worn poppet valve in See POWER STEERING PUMP
steering gear article
Excessive over center See POWER STEERING GEAR
lash article
Thrust bearing out of See POWER STEERING GEAR
adjustment article
Page 1421 of 1501
Free play in pot coupling See POWER STEERING PUMP
article
Steering gear coupling See POWER STEERING PUMP
loose on shaft article
Steering disc mounting Tighten or replace if
bolts loose necessary
Coupling loose on worm Tighten or replace if
shaft necessary
Improper sector shaft See POWER STEERING GEAR
adjustment article
Excessive worm piston See POWER STEERING GEAR
side play article
Damaged valve lever See POWER STEERING GEAR
article
Universal joint loose Tighten or replace if
necessary
Defective rotary valve See POWER STEERING GEAR
article
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No Power When Sticking flow control See POWER STEERING PUMP
Parking valve article
Insufficient pump See POWER STEERING PUMP
pressure output article
Excessive internal pump See POWER STEERING PUMP
leakage article
Excessive internal gear See POWER STEERING PUMP
leakage article
Flange rubs against gear See STEERING COLUMN
adjust plug article
Loose pump belt Adjust or replace if
necessary
Low fluid level Check and add proper
amount of fluid
Engine idle too low Adjust to correct
setting
Steering gear-to-column See STEERING COLUMN
misaligned article
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No Power, Left turn reaction seal See POWER STEERING GEAR
Left Turn "O" ring worn article
Left turn reaction seal See POWER STEERING GEAR
damaged/missing article
Cylinder head "O" ring See POWER STEERING PUMP
damaged article
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Page 1422 of 1501
No Power, Column pot coupling See STEERING COLUMN
Right Turns bottomed article
Right turn reaction seal See POWER STEERING GEAR
"O" ring worn article
Right turn reaction seal See POWER STEERING GEAR
damaged article
Internal leakage through See POWER STEERING GEAR
piston end plug article
Internal leakage through See POWER STEERING GEAR
side plugs article
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Lack of Effort Left and/or right Replace, see POWER
in Turning reaction seal sticking STEERING GEAR article
in cylinder head
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Wanders to One Front end alignment See WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Side incorrect article
Unbalanced steering See POWER STEERING GEAR
gear valve article
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Low Pressure Due Flow control valve stuck See POWER STEERING PUMP
to Steering Pump or inoperative article
Pressure plate not flat See POWER STEERING PUMP
against cam ring article
Extreme wear of cam ring Replace and check
adjustments
Scored plate, thrust See POWER STEERING PUMP
plate or rotor article
Vanes not installed See POWER STEERING PUMP
properly article
Vanes sticking in rotor See POWER STEERING PUMP
slots article
Cracked/broken thrust or See POWER STEERING PUMP
pressure plate article
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STEERING COLUMN TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended
to be specific to any unique situation or individual vehicle
configuration. The purpose of this Trouble Shooting
information is to provide a list of common causes to
problem symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting,
refer to SUBJECT, DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available
in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC STEERING COLUMN TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION \
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Noise in Coupling pulled apart See STEERING COLUMNS
Steering article
Page 1430 of 1501
The noid light is an excellent "quick and dirty" tool. It can
usually be hooked to a fuel injector harness fast and the flashing
light is easy to understand. It is a dependable way to identify a no-
pulse situation.
However, a noid light can be very deceptive in two cases:
* If the wrong one is used for the circuit being tested.
Beware: Just because a connector on a noid light fits the
harness does not mean it is the right one.
* If an injector driver is weak or a minor voltage drop is
present.
Use the Right Noid Light
In the following text we will look at what can happen if the
wrong noid light is used, why there are different types of noid lights
(besides differences with connectors), how to identify the types of
noid lights, and how to know the right type to use.
First, let's discuss what can happen if the incorrect type of
noid light is used. You might see:
* A dimly flashing light when it should be normal.
* A normal flashing light when it should be dim.
A noid light will flash dim if used on a lower voltage
circuit than it was designed for. A normally operating circuit would
appear underpowered, which could be misinterpreted as the cause of a
fuel starvation problem.
Here are the two circuit types that could cause this problem:
* Circuits with external injector resistors. Used predominately
on some Asian & European systems, they are used to reduce the
available voltage to an injector in order to limit the
current flow. This lower voltage can cause a dim flash on a
noid light designed for full voltage.
* Circuits with current controlled injector drivers (e.g. "Peak
and Hold"). Basically, this type of driver allows a quick
burst of voltage/current to flow and then throttles it back
significantly for the remainder of the pulse width duration.
If a noid light was designed for the other type of driver
(voltage controlled, e.g. "Saturated"), it will appear dim
because it is expecting full voltage/current to flow for the
entire duration of the pulse width.
Let's move to the other situation where a noid light flashes
normally when it should be dim. This could occur if a more sensitive
noid light is used on a higher voltage/amperage circuit that was
weakened enough to cause problems (but not outright broken). A circuit\
with an actual problem would thus appear normal.
Let's look at why. A noid light does not come close to
consuming as much amperage as an injector solenoid. If there is a
partial driver failure or a minor voltage drop in the injector
circuit, there can be adequate amperage to fully operate the noid
light BUT NOT ENOUGH TO OPERATE THE INJECTOR.
If this is not clear, picture a battery with a lot of
corrosion on the terminals. Say there is enough corrosion that the
starter motor will not operate; it only clicks. Now imagine turning on
the headlights (with the ignition in the RUN position). You find they
light normally and are fully bright. This is the same idea as noid
light: There is a problem, but enough amp flow exists to operate the
headlights ("noid light"), but not the starter motor ("injector").
How do you identify and avoid all these situations? By using
the correct type of noid light. This requires that you understanding
Page 1473 of 1501
vehicle is at normal riding height.
* Steering wheel must be centered with wheels in straight ahead
position. If required, shorten one tie rod adjusting sleeve
and lengthen opposite sleeve (equal amount of turns). See
Fig. 2.
* Wheel bearings should have the correct preload and lug nuts
must be tightened to manufacturer's specifications. Adjust
camber, caster and toe-in using this sequence. Follow
instructions of the alignment equipment manufacturer.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to correct alignment by straightening parts.
Damaged parts must be replaced.
Fig. 2: Adjusting Tie Rod Sleeves (Top View)
CAMBER
1) Camber is the tilting of the wheel, outward at either top
or bottom, as viewed from front of vehicle. See Fig. 3.
2) When wheels tilts outward at the top (from centerline of
vehicle), camber is positive. When wheels tilt inward at top, camber
is negative. Amount of tilt is measured in degrees from vertical.