
(4) Install rear pinion bearing (Fig. 58) with
Installer D-389 and a press.
(5) Installnewcollapsible spacer (Fig. 59).
(6) Lubricate pinion and bearings.
(7) Install pinion into the housing and place front
pinion bearing onto the pinion shaft. Draw the pinionshaft into the front bearing with Installer 8981 (Fig.
60).
(8) Installnewpinion seal (Fig. 61) with Installer
8896 and Handle C-4171.
(9) Apply a light coat of teflon sealant to the pin-
ion flange splines.
(10) Hold pinion and lightly tap the pinion flange
onto the pinion, until a few threads are showing.
(11) Install pinion flange washer andnewpinion
nut.
(12) Hold pinion flange with Flange Wrench 8979
(Fig. 62) and tighten pinion nut until pinion end play
is taken up.
(13) Rotate pinion several times to seat bearings.
(14) Measure pinion rotating torque with an inch
pound torque wrench (Fig. 63). Tighten pinion nut in
small increments until pinion rotating torque is:
²New Pinion Bearings:1.7-2.8 N´m (15-25 in.
lbs.)
²Original Pinion Bearings:1.1-2.2 N´m (10-20
in. lbs.)
Fig. 58 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - PRESS
2 - INSTALLER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - REAR PINION BEARING
Fig. 59 COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
1 - COLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - REAR PINION BEARING
Fig. 60 PINION GEAR INSTALLER
1 - INSTALLER
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
Fig. 61 PINION SEAL INSTALLER
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
DRREAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AA 3 - 165
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within the pis-
ton bore forces the caliper to slide inward on the
mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard
brake pad lining into contact with the outer surface
of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and
bring the vehicle to a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brake pads do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig.
25). When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are
released, the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amountis just enough to maintain contact between the pis-
ton and inboard brake pad.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Compress the disc brake caliper.
(5) Remove the banjo bolt and discard the copper
washer.
(6) Remove the caliper slide bolts.
(7) Remove the disc brake caliper (Fig. 26) or (Fig.
27).
REMOVAL - REAR
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Drain small amount of fluid from master cylin-
der brake reservoir with suction gun.
(5) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt and discard
the copper washers if replacing caliper (Fig. 28).
Fig. 24 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
Fig. 25 Lining Wear Compensation By Piston Seal
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 17
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT
NOTE: Install a new copper washers on the banjo
bolt when installing
(1) Install the disc brake caliper (Fig. 26) or (Fig.
27).
CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening fitting bolt.
(2) Install the banjo bolt with new copper washers
to the caliper. Tighten to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.)
(3) Install the caliper slide pin bolts. tighten to 32
N´m (24 ft. lbs.)
(4) Remove the prop rod.
(5) Bleed the base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(7) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - REAR
(1) Install caliper to the caliper adapter.
(2) Coat the caliper mounting slide pin bolts with
silicone grease. Then install and tighten the bolts to
15 N´m (11 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the brake hose banjo bolt if removed.
(4) Install the brake hose to the caliper withnew
seal washersand tighten fitting bolt to 27 N´m (245
in. lbs.).CAUTION: Verify brake hose is not twisted or
kinked before tightening fitting bolt.
(5) Remove the prop rod from the vehicle.
(6) Bleed the base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Install the wheel and tire assemblies (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(8) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(9) Verify a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
DISC BRAKE CALIPER
ADAPTER
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the bolts securing the caliper adapter
to the steering knuckle (Fig. 38)
(5) Remove the caliper adapter.
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Drain a small amount of fluid from master cyl-
inder brake reservoir with acleansuction gun.
Fig. 37 Seating Dust Boot
1 - HANDLE
2 - CALIPER
3 - DUST BOOT INSTALLER
Fig. 38 CALIPER ADAPTER
1 - CALIPER ASSEMBLY
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
3 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 21
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

HYDRAULIC BOOSTER DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Slow Brake Pedal Return 1. Excessive seal friction in booster. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
4. Damaged input rod. 4. Replace booster.
Excessive Brake Pedal
Effort.1. Internal or external seal leakage. 1. Replace booster.
2. Faulty steering pump. 2. Replace pump.
Brakes Self Apply 1. Dump valve faulty. 1. Replace booster.
2. Contamination in hydraulic
system.2. Flush hydraulic system and replace
booster.
3. Restriction in booster return hose. 3. Replace hose.
Booster Chatter, Pedal
Vibration1. Slipping pump belt. 1. Replace power steering belt.
2. Low pump fluid level. 2. Fill pump and check for leaks.
Grabbing Brakes 1. Low pump flow. 1. Test and repair/replace pump.
2. Faulty spool valve action. 2. Replace booster.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BLEEDING
The hydraulic booster is generally self-bleeding,
this procedure will normally bleed the air from the
booster. Normal driving and operation of the unit will
remove any remaining trapped air.
(1) Fill power steering pump reservoir.
(2) Disconnect fuel shutdown relay and crank the
engine for several seconds, Refer to Fuel System for
relay location and WARNING.
(3) Check fluid level and add if necessary.
(4) Connect fuel shutdown relay and start the
engine.
(5) Turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to
lock twice.
(6) Stop the engine and discharge the accumulator
by depressing the brake pedal 5 times.
(7) Start the engine and turn the steering wheel
slowly from lock to lock twice.
(8) Turn off the engine and check fluid level and
add if necessary.
NOTE: If fluid foaming occurs, wait for foam to dis-
sipate and repeat steps 7 and 8.
REMOVAL
NOTE: If the booster is being replaced because the
power steering fluid is contaminated, flush the
power steering system before replacing the booster.
(1) With engine off depress the brake pedal 5
times to discharge the accumulator.
(2) Remove brake lines from master cylinder.
(3) Remove mounting nuts from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the bracket from the hydraulic booster
lines and master cylinder mounting studs.
(5) Remove the master cylinder.
(6) Remove the return hose and the two pressure
lines from the hydraulic booster (Fig. 55).
(7) Remove the booster push rod clip, washer and
rod remove from the brake pedal.
(8) Remove the mounting nuts from the hydraulic
booster and remove the booster.
DRBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hydraulic booster and tighten the
mounting nuts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the booster push rod, washer and clip
onto the brake pedal.
(3) Install the master cylinder on the mounting
studs. and tighten the mounting nuts to 23 N´m (17
ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the brake lines to the master cylinder
and tighten to 19-200 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic booster line bracket onto
the master cylinder mounting studs.
(6) Install the master cylinder mounting nuts and
tighten to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the hydraulic booster pressure lines to
the bracket and booster.
(8) Tighten the pressure lines to 41 N´m (30 ft.
lbs.).
NOTE: Inspect o-rings on the pressure line fittings
to insure they are in good condition before installa-
tion. Replace o-rings if necessary.
(9) Install the return hose to the booster.
(10) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Fill the power steering pump with fluid,
(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
CAUTION: MOPAR (MS-9602) ATF+4 is to be used in
the power steering system. No other power steering
or automatic transmission fluid is to be used in thesystem. Damage may result to the power steering
pump and system if any other fluid is used, and do
not overfill.
(12) Bleed the hydraulic booster (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/POWER
BRAKE BOOSTER - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DISC BRAKE ROTOR
The rotor braking surfaces should not be refinished
unless necessary.
Light surface rust and scale can be removed with a
lathe equipped with dual sanding discs. The rotor
surfaces can be restored by machining with a disc
brake lathe if surface scoring and wear are light.
Replace the rotor for the following conditions:
²Severely Scored
²Tapered
²Hard Spots
²Cracked
²Below Minimum Thickness
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if below min-
imum thickness, or if machining would reduce thick-
ness below the allowable minimum.
Rotor minimum thickness is usually specified on
the rotor hub. The specification is either stamped or
cast into the hub surface.
ROTOR RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout with dial indicator
C-3339 (Fig. 56). Excessive lateral runout will cause
brake pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven wear of the
brake shoes. Position the dial indicator plunger
approximately 25.4 mm (1 in.) inward from the rotor
edge.
NOTE: Be sure wheel bearing has zero end play
before checking rotor runout.
Maximum allowable rotor runout is 0.127 mm
(0.005 in.).
ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul-
sation, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at 6 to 12 points around
the rotor face (Fig. 57).
Fig. 55 HYDRO-BOOST UNIT
1 - INLET HOSE
2 - HYDRO-BOOST UNIT
3 - MASTER CYLINDER UNIT
4 - RETURN HOSE
5 - OUTLET HOSE
5 - 32 BRAKES - BASEDR
HYDRO-BOOST BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 15).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bearing slide surface on transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.
(2) Inspect release lever and pivot stud. Be sure
stud is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace fork spring clips if
bent or damaged.
(3) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud, and release lever
pivot surface with Moparthigh temperature bearing
grease.
(4) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
16). Be sure fork and bearing are properly secured by
spring clips. Also be sure that the release fork is
installed properly. The rear side of the release lever
has one end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(5) Install clutch housing, if removed.
(6) Install transmission and transfer case.(7) Check clutch master cylinder fluid level.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Fig. 14 CLUTCH HOUSING - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC/PRESSURE PLATE
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
Fig. 15 CLUTCH RELEASE COMPONENTS
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING CLIP
Fig. 16 Clutch Release Fork And
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
6 - 10 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐTHERMOSTAT
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
Allgasoline powered modelsare equipped with
On-Board Diagnostics for certain cooling system com-
ponents. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) in the
Diagnosis section of this group for additional infor-
mation. If the powertrain control module (PCM)
detects low engine coolant temperature, it will record
a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in the PCM mem-
ory. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heat as
indicated by the instrument panel gauge or by poor
heater performance unless a DTC is present. Refer to
the Diagnosis section of this group for other probable
causes.
The DTC can also be accessed through the
DRBIIItscan tool. Refer to the appropriate Power-
train Diagnostic Procedures information for diagnos-
tic information and operation of the DRBIIItscan
tool.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM HOT
AND PRESSURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
If the thermostat is being replaced, be sure that
the replacement is the specified thermostat for the
vehicle model and engine type.
Factory installed thermostat housings on 5.9L
engine is installed on a gasket with an anti-stick
coating. This will aid in gasket removal and clean-up.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Drain the cooling system until the coolant level
is below the thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Air Conditioned vehicles: Remove the support
bracket (generator mounting bracket-to-intake mani-
fold) located near the rear of the generator (Fig. 17).
NOTE: On air conditioning equipped vehicles, the
generator must be partially removed.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL) (Fig. 18).
(5) Remove the generator mounting bolts. Do not
remove any of the wiring at the generator. If
equipped with 4WD, unplug the 4WD indicator lamp
wiring harness (located near rear of generator).
(6) Remove the generator. Position the generator
to gain access for the thermostat gasket removal.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
Fig. 16 Thermostat - 5.7L/5.9L Gas Powered
Engines
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - GASKET
3 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
4 - THERMOSTAT
5 - MACHINED GROOVE
Fig. 17 Generator Support Bracket ± 5.9L Engine
1 - IDLER PULLEY BUSHING
2 - A/C AND/OR GENERATOR MOUNTING BRACKET
3 - IDLER PULLEY
4 - SCREW AND WASHER
7 - 42 ENGINEDR
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT- 5.7L (Continued)

RADIATOR-3.7L/4.7L/5.7L
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 38).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler.
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter and the correct
width.
(3) Remove the hose clamps and hoses from radia-
tor.
(4) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from the radiator filler neck.
(5) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank from
the fan shroud (pull straight up). The tank slips into
slots on the fan shroud.
(6) Unclip the power steering hoses from the fan
shroud.
(7) Disconnect the electrical connectors at the
windshield washer reservoir tank and remove the
tank.
(8) Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts and pull
up and out of the radiator tank clips (Fig. 36). Posi-
tion shroud rearward over the fan blades towards
engine.
(9) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from
the transmission cooler, then plug the transmission
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
(10) Disconnect the power steering lines from the
power steering cooler, then plug the power steering
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
Fig. 36 Fan Shroud - Gas Engine
1 - RADIATOR
2 - SCREWS
3 - FAN SHROUD
4 - SLIDE MOUNT
7 - 54 ENGINEDR