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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Every Vehicle is ready for some trailer towing. If yours
was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready
for heavier trailers. But trailering
is different than just
driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes
in handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful,
safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be
used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In
it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many
of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers.
So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
0
0
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig
will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control if your trailer will
weigh
2,000 lbs. (900 kg) or less. You should always
use a sway control if your trailer will weigh more
than
2,000 lbs. (900 kg). You can ask a hitch dealer
about sway controls.
0
0
0
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first
500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over
50 mph (80 kmh) and
don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear
in at the
heavier loads.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can
use THIRD
(3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear)
when towing
a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
THIRD
(3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat
buildup and extend the life of your transmission. If
you have a manual transmission and you are towing
a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH
(5) gear. Just
drive
in FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a
lower gear).
Three important considerations have to
do with weight:
0 the weight of the trailer,
0 the weight of the trailer tongue
0 and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a
trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any
special equipment that you have
on your vehicle.
The following chart shows how much your trailer can
weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.
Vehicle
2-Wheel Drive,
Auto. Trans.
2-Wheel Drive,
Manual Trans.
4-Wheel Drive
&
All- Wheel Drive,
Auto. Trans.
4-Wheel Drive
&
All-Wheel Drive,
Manual Trans.
Axle Ratio Trailer Wt.
3.08 4,500 lbs. (2 041 kg)
3.42
5,500 lbs. (2 495 kg)
3.42 4,500 Ibs. (2 041 kg)
3.08 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg)
3.42 5,000 lbs. (2 268
kg)
3.73 5,000 lbs. (2 268 kg)
3.42 4,000 Ibs. (1 8 14 kg) Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the
driver and
one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it
has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of
additional optional equipment, passengers and cargo in
the tow vehicle must be subtracted from the maximum
trailer weight.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or
advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total or gross
weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight
(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any
cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be
riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you
must add the tongue load to the GVW because your
vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading
Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about
your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine A B
If you’re using a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer
tongue
(A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded
trailer weight
(B). If you’re using a weight-distributing
hitch, the trailer tongue
(A) should weigh 12 percent of
the total loaded trailer weight (B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are
proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right
simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the
Certificatioflire label on the driver’s door edge, above
the door latch, or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then
be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your
vehicle, including the weight
of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a
few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules
to follow:
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than
3,500 lbs. (1 589 kg), be sure to use
a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and
sway control of the proper size. This equipment is
very important for proper vehicle loading and good
handling when you’re driving.
0 Will you have to make any holes in the body of your
vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide
(CO) from your exhaust can get
into your vehicle (see “Carbon Monoxide” in the
Index). Dirt and water can, too.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer
so that the tongue will not drop to the road
if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch
manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety
chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Always
leave just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig.
And, never allow safety chains
to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes -- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly. Your
trailer’s brake system
can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system
only if
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
fluid tap at the
port on the master cylinder that sends
fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for
this.
If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use
steel brake tubing.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Driving with a Trailer
I
A GA ‘TION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon monoxide
(CO) could come into your vehicle. You can’t see
or smell
CO. It can cause unconsciousness or
death. (See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.) To
maximize your safety when towing
a trailer:
0 Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
0 If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan
on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle.
Do not use
MAX AfC because it only recirculates the
air inside your vehicle. (See “Comfort
Controls” in the Index.) Towing a
trailer requires
a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the
feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you
are driving is now a
good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before
you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment.
If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load
is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you
would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This
can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re
a good
deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before
you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could
cause the trailer
to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and
a heavy-duty turn signal flasher (included in
the optional trailering package).
The arrows
on your instrument panel will flash
whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly
hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other
drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned
out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you
are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important
to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are
still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If
you don’t shift
down,
you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
When you’re turning with
a trailer, make wider turns than
normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees
or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well
in advance. On
a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce your
speed
to around 45 mph (70 kmh) to reduce the
possibility of engine and transmission overheating.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine If you have an automatic transmission, you should use
DRIVE
(D) when towing a trailer. Operating your
vehicle in DRIVE (D) when towing a trailer will
minimize heat buildup and extend the life
of your
transmission. Or, if
you have a manual transmission,
it’s better not to use
FIFTH (5) gear, just drive in
FOURTH
(4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If
you turn
your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating.
To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably
on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the
manual transmission out
of gear and the parking brake
applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine
off.
If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating” in the Index.
Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer
attached,
on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig
could start
to move. People can be injured, and both
your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged. But if you ever have
to park your rig
on a hill, here’s
how
to do it:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK
(P) yet, or into gear for a manual
transmission. Then turn your wheels into the curb if
facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P), or
REVERSE
(R) for a manual transmission.
If
you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a
manual transfer case shift lever, be sure the transfer
case is
in a drive gear -- not in NEUTRAL (N).
Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
0 Start your engine;
0 Shift into a gear; and
0 R.elease the parking brake.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling
a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important
in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake adjustment. Each
of these is covered in this
manual, and the Index will help
you find them quickly.
If
you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring H-T--- ess
The light duty trailer wir is a six-wire harness
assembly. The optional heavy-duty trailer wiring
is an
eight-wire harness assembly. The harnesses are stored under the vehicle, along the passenger-side frame
crossmember on two-door vehicles or on the driver’s side
corner frame rear crossmember on four-door vehicles. The
heavy-duty trailer wiring has a 30-amp feed wire with
an
inline fuse located by the junction block. See
“Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index. Both
harnesses have
no connector and should be wired by a
qualified electrical technician. The technician
can use
the following color code chart when connecting the
wiring harness to your trailer.
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Dark Blue: Use for electric trailer brakes or
auxiliary wiring.
Red: Use for battery charging; it connects to the
starter solenoid (eight-wire harness only).
Light Green: Back-up lamps (eight-wire
harness only).
Brown: Taillamps and parking lamps. Yellow: Left stoplamp and turn signal.
Dark Green: Right stoplamp and turn signal.
White (Heavy Gage): Ground wire.
White (Light Gage): Auxiliary stoplamp.
Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or
strap
it to your vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you leave
it loose enough
so the wiring doesn’t bend or break,
but not
so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness in its original place. Wrap the harness together
and tie it neatly
so it won’t be damaged.