1997 JAGUAR XJ6 torque

11If you installed another pair of self-
levelling shocks, or removed and installed the
same pair of self-levelling shocks, be sure to
top up the power hydraulic system reservoir
(see Chapter 1).
11 Hub carrier (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Remove the ABS sensor, the ABS harness
clip and cut off the cable tie which secures the
ABS harness to the carrier (see illustration).
5Remove the nut and bolt which attach the
carrier to the control arm (see illustration).
6Remove the hub carrier assembly.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
12 Hub and bearing (rear)-
renewal
4
If you want to renew the rear hub and
bearing assembly (or the ABS trigger wheel),
remove the hub carrier (see Section 11), then
take the carrier to a Jaguar dealer service
department or to an automotive machine
workshop. These parts require a hydraulic
press and special fixtures to dismantle and
reassemble.
13 Control arm (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Disconnect the lower end of the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly from the
control arm (see Section 10).
5Remove the hub carrier (see Section 11).
6Remove the control arm pivot bolt nut (see
illustration).
7Support the differential/crossmember
assembly with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood between the jack head and the
differential to protect the differential.
Disconnect the lower end of the differential
tie-bar (see illustration)and carefully lower
the differential crossmember just enough toallow the control arm pivot bolt to be pulled
out to the rear without hitting the boot well.
8Remove the control arm.
9Inspect the control arm pivot bolt bushings.
If they’re cracked, dried out or torn, take the
arm to an automotive machine workshop and
have them replaced.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all suspension fasteners to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten all
brake fasteners to the torque listed in the
Chapter 9 Specifications.
14 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If your car is equipped
with an airbag, do not attempt
this procedure. Have it done by a
dealer service department or
other qualified repair workshop.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
13.6 Hold the pivot bolt and unscrew
the nut13.7 Remove this nut (arrowed) and bolt
from the lower end of each tie-bar (right
above the control arm pivot)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.4 Before detaching the hub carrier from the rear control arm,
remove the ABS sensor (left arrow), detach the ABS harness clip
(right arrow) and cut the cable tie securing the harness
11.5 To detach the hub carrier from the rear control arm, remove
the carrier-to-control arm nut and bolt

sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Pry off the centre pad (see illustration).
3Remove the steering wheel nut and mark
the relationship of the steering wheel hub to
the shaft (see illustration).
4Slide the steering wheel off the steering
shaft (see illustration).
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure you align the match marks you made on
the steering wheel and the shaft. Tighten the
steering wheel nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
15 Tie-rod ends-
removal and refitting
2
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the front wheel.
2Back off the locknut that locks the tie-rod
end to the tie-rod, then paint an alignment
mark on the threads to ensure the new tie-rod
end is installed in the same position (see
illustration).
3Loosen the nut on the tie-rod ball stud, then
fit a small puller and pop the ball stud loose
(see illustration). Remove the nut and
separate the ball stud from the steering
knuckle. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-
rod.
4Refitting is the reverse of removal. Make
sure you thread the tie-rod end all the way up
to the mark on the threads, but no further.
Tighten the ball stud nut to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten the
locknut securely.
5Have the toe-in checked and, if necessary,
adjusted at a dealer service department or
alignment workshop.
16 Steering gear boots- renewal
2
1Remove the tie-rod ends (see Section 15).
2Cut the boot clamps at both ends of the old
boots (see illustration)and slide off the
boots.3While the boots are removed, inspect the
seals in the end of the steering gear. If they’re
leaking, have them replaced by a dealer
service department or other qualified repair
workshop, or replace the steering gear with a
new or rebuilt unit (see Section 17).
4Slide the new boots into place and refit new
boot clamps.
5Refit the tie-rod ends (see Section 15).
Suspension and steering systems 10•9
10
14.4 To remove the steering wheel,
simply pull it straight off15.2 Back off this locknut and mark the
threads to ensure that the new tie-rod end
is installed properly
15.3 Loosen the ball stud nut, fit a small
puller and pop the ball stud loose from the
steering knuckle
3261 Jaguar XJ6 14.2 To remove the centre pad from the steering wheel,
simply pry it off
14.3 After removing the steering wheel nut, make a pair of
alignment marks on the steering wheel and steering shaft to
ensure proper reassembly
16.2 Cut off the boot clamps (arrowed)
and slide the boot off the steering gear

17 Steering gear-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: On models with an
airbag, do not apply excessive
force or severe shock to the
steering column shaft, or
accidental deployment of the airbag could
occur.
1Using a large syringe or hand pump, empty
the power steering fluid reservoir.
2Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheels.
3Mark the relationship of the steering shaft
U-joint to the steering gear pinion shaft (see
illustration)to ensure proper alignment when
they’re reassembled. Remove the nut and bolt
that clamp the U-joint to the pinion shaft.
4Disconnect the power steering pressure
and return lines from the steering gear. Place
a container under the lines to catch spilledfluid. Plug the lines to prevent excessive fluid
loss and contamination. Discard the sealing
washers (new ones should be used when
reassembling).
5Disconnect the tie-rod ends from the
steering knuckle arms (see Section 17).
6Remove the nuts and bolts from the steering
gear mounting brackets (see illustration).
7Remove the steering gear assembly,
detaching the U-joint as you lower it. Don’t
damage the steering gear dust boots.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Ensure the
marks you made on the U-joint and the pinion
shaft are aligned before you tighten the U-joint
clamp bolt and nut. Tighten the mounting bolts,
the tie-rod end nuts and the U-joint shaft
clamping bolts to the specified torque.
9After lowering the vehicle, fill the reservoir
with the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1).
10Bleed the power steering system (see
Section 19).
11Have the front wheels aligned by a dealer
service department or alignment workshop
after reassembly.
18 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
3
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the engine under-cover.
2Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the
fluid return hose from the top of the pump
(see illustration)and drain the power steering
fluid from the reservoir into a clean container.
Unscrew the pressure line fitting from the
back of the pump. Plug the return hose and
the pressure line to prevent fluid from leaking
and to protect the power steering system
from contamination.
3Remove the bolts (see illustration)that
attach the power steering pump adapter to
the auxiliary shaft housing.
4Remove the power steering pump and
adapter.
5Take the power steering pump and adapter
to a Jaguar dealer service department and
have the adapter removed from the old pump
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
18.2 Disconnect the steering fluid return hose from the upper
pipe (arrowed) and disconnect the pressure line
from the back of the pump18.3 To detach the pump adapter from the auxiliary shaft
housing, remove these bolts
3261 Jaguar XJ6 17.3 Mark the relationship of the steering shaft U-joint to the
steering gear pinion shaft, then unscrew the pressure and return
line fittings (arrowed) - plug the lines to prevent contamination
from entering the system
17.6 To detach the steering gear from the vehicle, remove these
nuts and bolts (arrowed) from the mounting brackets (right
bracket shown, left bracket similar)

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•2Conversion factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in) x 25.4 = Millimetres (mm) x 0.0394 = Inches (in)
Feet (ft) x 0.305 = Metres (m) x 3.281 = Feet (ft)
Miles x 1.609 = Kilometres (km) x 0.621 = Miles
Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in3) x 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in; in3)
Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Litres (l) x 1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.137 = Litres (l) x 0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) x 0.946 = Litres (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 4.546 = Litres (l) x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
Imperial gallons (Imp gal) x 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal) x 3.785 = Litres (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)
Mass (weight)
Ounces (oz) x 28.35 = Grams (g) x 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
Pounds (lb) x 0.454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 = Pounds (lb)
Force
Ounces-force (ozf; oz) x 0.278 = Newtons (N) x 3.6 = Ounces-force (ozf; oz)
Pounds-force (lbf; lb) x 4.448 = Newtons (N) x 0.225 = Pounds-force (lbf; lb)
Newtons (N) x 0.1 = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg) x 9.81 = Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds-force per square inch x 0.070 = Kilograms-force per square x 14.223 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2) centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm2) (psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch x 0.068 = Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in
2; lb/in2)(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch x 0.069 = Bars x 14.5 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in
2; lb/in2)(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds-force per square inch x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds-force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in
2; lb/in2)(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.01 = Kilograms-force per square x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
centimetre (kgf/cm
2; kg/cm2)
Millibar (mbar) x 100 = Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) x 0.0145 = Pounds-force per square inch x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)
(psi; lbf/in
2; lb/in2)
Millibar (mbar) x 0.75 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) x 0.401 = Inches of water (inH
2O) x 2.491 = Millibar (mbar)
Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) x 0.535 = Inches of water (inH
2O) x 1.868 = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)
Inches of water (inH
2O) x 0.036 = Pounds-force per square inch x 27.68 = Inches of water (inH2O)
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds-force inches x 1.152 = Kilograms-force centimetre x 0.868 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in) (kgf cm; kg cm) (lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches x 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm) x 8.85 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force inches x 0.083 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 12 = Pounds-force inches
(lbf in; lb in)(lbf in; lb in)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 0.138 = Kilograms-force metres x 7.233 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
(kgf m; kg m)
Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft) x 1.356 = Newton metres (Nm) x 0.738 = Pounds-force feet (lbf ft; lb ft)
Newton metres (Nm) x 0.102 = Kilograms-force metres x 9.804 = Newton metres (Nm)
(kgf m; kg m)
Power
Horsepower (hp) x 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)
Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph) x 1.609 = Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621 = Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)
Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon (mpg) x 0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) x 2.825 = Miles per gallon (mpg)
Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56
* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (l/100km), where mpg x l/100 km = 282

3261 Jaguar XJ6
General repair proceduresREF•5
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar tool. Alternatively, a number of self-
tapping screws may be screwed into the seal,
and these used as a purchase for pliers or
similar in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•6Tools and working facilities
Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance
and minor repair tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert) -
petrol models
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol
models
MSet of feeler blades
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches.
The tools in this list will sometimes need to
be supplemented by tools from the Speciallist:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Sockets and reversible ratchet drive
Clutch plate alignment setPiston ring compressorSpline bit set
Valve spring compressor

3261 Jaguar XJ6
NNeutral start switch -7•5
Notes for UK readers -0•4, REF•3
Number plate light - 12•12
OObtaining diagnostic code output -6•3
Oil cooler -3•6
Oil filter -1•6
Oil gauge - 12•7
Oil pump -2A•15
Oil seals -2A•5, 2A•17, 2B•17, 7•7, 8•4, 8•5, REF•5
Oil,differential -1•2, 1•11, 1•20
Oil,engine -0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•6
On Board Diagnosis (OBD) system -6•2
Open circuit check - 12•2
Output shaft -7•7
Oxygen sensor -6•4
PPads (brake) -9•1, 9•2
Painting - 11•2
Parking lights - 12•11
Piston rings -2B•15
Pistons -2B•9, 2B•12, 2B•17
Poisonous or irritant substances -0•5
Power hydraulic system -0•16
fluid - 1•9
Power steering - 10•10, 10•11
fluid - 0•13, 0•16
Propshaft -1•18, 8•1, 8•2, 8•3
Punctures- 0•8
RRadiator -3•4
grille - 11•5
Radio - 12•7, REF•1
Rear lights - 12•12
Receiver/drier -3•12
Regulator (window) - 11•10
Relays - 12•3
Repair procedures - REF•5
Reversing lights -7•5, 12•12
Road test -1•14
Roadside repairs-0•6et seq
Routine maintenance and servicing-1•1et seq
Rust holes - 11•2
SSafety first -0•5
Scalding -0•5
Scratches - 11•2Screw threads and fastenings - REF•5
Seat belts -1•13, REF•9
Seats - 11•14, REF•9
Self-levelling rear suspension system - 10•3
Servo -1•12, 9•1, 9•9
Shift cable -7•4
Shock absorber - 10•4, 10•6, REF•9, REF•10
Shoes (brake) -1•20, 9•11
Short circuit check - 12•1
Side marker lights - 12•11
Spare parts - REF•4
Spark plugs -1•7, 1•14
Speakers - 12•7
Speed sensor -6•7
Spoiler - 11•5
Springs - 10•5, 10•6, REF•10
Starter motor -5•7
Steering - See Suspension and steering systems
Steering wheel and column - 11•13, 12•5, REF•8
Sump -2A•14
Sunroof - 12•14
Supplementary air valve -4•13
Suspension and steering systems- 1•12, 10•1et seq, REF•9, REF•10
fault finding - REF•16, REF•17
Switches -4•1, 7•5, 9•13, 12•5, 12•6, 12•12
TTail lights - 12•12
Temperature gauge - 12•7
Temperature sender unit -3•7
Thermostat -3•2
Throttle body -4•10
Throttle potentiometer -6•5
Tie-rod ends - 10•9
Timing chains -2A•6
Tools - REF•5, REF•6, REF•7
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston -2A•2
Torque converter -7•7
Towing -0•6
Trim panels - 11•7, 11•13
Tyres - 0•14, 10•11, REF•11
UUK readers information -0•4, REF•3
Universal joint -8•1, 8•2, 8•5
Upholstery - 11•1
VVacuum gauge checks -2B•3
Valve cover -2A•3
Valve lifters -2A•9
Valves -2B•8
Vehicle identification - REF•4, REF•9
Vehicle support - REF•1
Vinyl trim - 11•1
Voltage checks - 12•1
REF•24Index