1997 JAGUAR XJ6 coolant level

3261 Jaguar XJ6
LIVING WITH YOUR JAGUAR XJ6
IntroductionPage 0•4
Notes for UK readersPage 0•4
Safety first!Page 0•5
Roadside repairs
IntroductionPage 0•6
If your car won’t startPage 0•6
Jump startingPage 0•7
Wheel changingPage 0•8
Identifying leaksPage 0•9
TowingPage 0•9
Weekly checks
IntroductionPage 0•10
Underbonnet check points Page 0•10
Engine oil levelPage 0•11
Coolant levelPage 0•11
Brake fluid levelPage 0•12
Screen washer fluid level Page 0•12
Power steering fluid level Page 0•13
Wiper bladesPage 0•13
Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14
BatteryPage 0•15
Bulbs and fusesPage 0•15
Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressuresPage 0•16
MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicingPage 1•1
Servicing specificationsPage 1•2
Maintenance schedulePage 1•3
Maintenance procedures Page 1•6
Contents

3261 Jaguar XJ6
0•10Weekly checks
There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.
These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, for example;MKeeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.
M
Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are particularly
common, and a quick check on a regular basis
will often prevent the majority of
these.MIf your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when
your brakes don't work properly. Checking
the level regularly will give advance warning of
this kind of problem.
MIf the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.
Introduction
§3.6 litre engine
(others similar)
Viewed from right-hand side
AEngine oil level dipstick
BEngine oil filler cap
CCoolant expansion tank
DBrake fluid reservoir
EScreen washer fluid reservoir
FBattery
GPower steering fluid reservoir
Underbonnet check points

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly checks0•11
Engine oil level
Before you start
4Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
The correct oilModern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and
tyre pressures”).
Car care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault finding”).
lAlways maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
If the oil level is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!
The dipstick is located at the rear of the
engine on the left-hand side (see “Under-
bonnet check points” on page 0•10 for
exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,
then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick which should be between the
upper and lower marks. The “M” mark is
for use when checking the oil level after the
vehicle has been standing overnight; in this
case the oil level should be between the “M”
and upper level markings.Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add
the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
often. Don’t overfill (see “Car care” left).
12
34
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.
Car care
lAdding coolant should not be necessary on
a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the
radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of
staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
lIt is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.
Coolant level
The coolant level should be checked only
with the engine cold. The level is checked
in the expansion tank on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. Remove the
expansion tank pressure cap and check that
the coolant level is upto the base of filler neck.If topping up is necessary, add a mixture
of water and antifreeze to the expansion
tank until the coolant level is upto the
base of the filler neck. Once the level is
correct, securely refit the pressure cap.12

3261 Jaguar XJ6
0•12Weekly checks
Brake fluid level
Warning:
l Brake fluid can harm your
eyes and will damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme caution
when handling and pouring it.
l Do not use fluid that has
been standing open for some
time, as it absorbs moisture
from the air, which can cause a
dangerous loss of braking
effectiveness.
Safety first!
lIf the reservoir requires repeated topping-
up this is an indication of a fluid leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.
lIf a leak is suspected, the car should not be
driven until the braking system has been
checked. Never take any risks where brakes
are concerned.
• Make sure that your car is
on level ground.
• The fluid level in the
reservoir will drop slightly as
the brake pads wear down, but the fluid
level must never be allowed to drop
below the “MIN” mark.
The brake fluid reservoir is located on the
right-hand rear corner of the engine
compartment, on top of the master
cylinder.1The upper (MAX) and lower (MIN) fluid
level markings are on the side of the brake
fluid reservoir. The fluid level must always
be kept between these two marks.2
If topping up is necessary, first wipe
clean the area around the filler cap with a
clean cloth then unscrew the cap and
position it clear of the reservoir.3Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on
the surrounding paintwork. Use only the
specified hydraulic fluid. After filling the
correct level, refit the cap and tighten it
securely. Wipe off any spilt fluid.4
Screenwash additives not only keep the
winscreen clean during foul weather, they also
prevent the washer system freezing in cold
weather - which is when you are likely to need it
most. Don’t top up using plain water as the
screenwash will become too diluted, and will
freeze during cold weather. On no account use
coolant antifreeze in the washer system -
this could discolour or damage paintwork.
Screen washer
fluid level
If topping up is necessary, add water and
a screenwash additive in the quantities
recommended on the bottle.2The screen washer fluid reservoir is
located in the front, right-hand corner of
the engine compartment. The level is
visible through the reservoir body.1

3261 Jaguar XJ6
1
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Automatic transmission fluid and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Battery check and general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Braking system - general check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Crankcase ventilation system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Differential oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Differential oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Front wheel alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Front wheel bearing check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
General lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Handbrake shoes check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Headlight beam check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Power hydraulic system fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Propshaft check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Spark plug check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
1•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures moreoften. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.
Maintenance schedule 1•3
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly, or every 250 miles (400 km)
m mCarry out all the operations given in “Weekly
checks”at the start of this manual.
m
mRenew the fuel filter (Section 18)
m mCheck the ignition system components (Section 19)
m mCheck the crankcase ventilation system
(Section 20)
m mCheck the condition and tension of the drivebelt(s)
(Section 21)
m mCheck the front wheel bearing adjustment and
repack with grease (Section 22)
m mCheck the propshaft fasteners are tightened to the
specified torque (Section 23)
m mCheck the front wheel alignment (Section 24)
m mCheck the headlight beam alignment (Section 25)
Every 7500 miles (12 000 km)
or 6 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)
m mCheck the spark plugs (Section 4)
m mCheck the power hydraulics fluid level (Section 5)
m mCheck the battery (Section 6)
m mCheck all pipes and hoses for signs of damage or
leakage (Section 7)
m mCheck the automatic transmission fluid level
(Section 8)
m mCheck the differential oil level (Section 9)
m mCheck the condition of the exhaust system
(Section 10)
m mCheck the brake pads and discs for wear and
adjust the handbrake (Section 11)
m mCheck the steering and suspension components
for wear or damage and check the wheel nuts are
tightened to the correct torque (Section 12)
m mCheck the condition of the seat belts (Section 13)
m mLubricate all locks and hinges, and exposed cables
(Section 14)
m mCarry out a road test (Section 15)
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
m
mRenew the coolant (Section 30)
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m
mCheck the handbrake shoes for wear (Section 29)
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km)
or 2 years, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the automatic transmission fluid and filter
(Section 26)
m mRenew the differential oil (Section 27)
m mRenew the brake fluid (Section 28)
Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km)
or 12 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the spark plugs (Section 16)
m mRenew the air cleaner element (Section 17)

5After the coolant stops flowing out of the
radiator, move the container under the engine
block drain plug. Remove the plug and let the
coolant in the block to drain (see illustration).
6While the coolant is draining from the
engine block, check the condition of the
radiator hoses, heater hoses and clamps
(refer to Section 7 if necessary).
7Replace any damaged clamps or hoses
(see Chapter 3).
Flushing
8Once the system is completely drained,
flush the radiator with fresh water from agarden hose until water runs clear at the drain.
The flushing action of the water will remove
sediments from the radiator but will not
remove more serious rust and scale from the
engine and cooling tube surfaces.
9These deposits can be removed by using
proprietary chemical cleaners. It should be
stressed, however, that these should only
need to be used if the system has been
neglected. Follow the procedure outlined in
their manufacturer’s instructions. If the
radiator is severely corroded, damaged or
leaking, it should be removed (see Chapter 3)
and taken to a radiator repair workshop.10On 1988 and 1989 models remove the
overflow hose from the coolant recovery
reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with
clean water, then reconnect the hose (see
Chapter 3).
Refilling
11Close and tighten the radiator drain. Refit
and tighten the engine block drain plugs.
12Make sure the heater temperature control
is in the maximum heat position.
13Slowly refill the expansion tank with a
mixture of antifreeze and water until the
coolant reaches the base of the filler neck.
14Leave the expansion tank pressure cap
off and run the engine in a well-ventilated area
until the thermostat opens (coolant will begin
flowing through the radiator and the upper
radiator hose will become hot). Race the
engine two or three times under no load.
15Turn the engine off and let it cool. Add
more coolant mixture to bring the level back
up to the base of the filler neck.
16Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel
air, then add more coolant mixture if
necessary. Refit the expansion tank pressure
cap.
17Start the engine, allow it to reach normal
operating temperature and check for leaks.
Every 2 years 1•21
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
30.4 The radiator drain fitting (arrowed)
located at the bottom of the radiator30.5 The block drain plug (arrowed) is
located on the right side of the block

6Refit the compression gauge in the spark
plug hole (see illustration).
7Crank the engine over at least seven
compression strokes and watch the gauge.
The compression should build up quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which doesn’t build up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown cylinder head gasket (a
cracked cylinder head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
Record the highest gauge reading obtained.
8Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders and compare the results to this
Chapter’s Specifications.
9Add some engine oil (about three squirts
from a plunger-type oil can) to each cylinder,
through the spark plug hole, and repeat the
test.
10If the compression increases after the oil
is added, the piston rings are definitely worn.
If the compression doesn’t increase
significantly, the leakage is occurring at the
valves or cylinder head gasket. Leakage past
the valves may be caused by burned valve
seats and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent
valves.
11If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compression, there’s a strong possibility that
the cylinder head gasket between them is
blown. The appearance of coolant in the
combustion chambers or the crankcase
would verify this condition.
12If one cylinder is 20 percent lower than the
others, and the engine has a slightly rough
idle, a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft
could be the cause.
13If the compression is unusually high, the
combustion chambers are probably coated
with carbon deposits. If that’s the case, the
cylinder head(s) should be removed and
decarbonised.
14If compression is way down or varies
greatly between cylinders, it would be a goodidea to have a leak-down test performed by
an automotive repair workshop. This test will
pinpoint exactly where the leakage is
occurring and how severe it is.
5 Engine removal-
methods and precautions
If you’ve decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t
available, at the very least a flat, level, clean
work surface made of concrete or asphalt is
required.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine before beginning the removal
procedure will help keep tools clean and
organised.
An engine hoist or A-frame will also be
necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and transmission. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle.
If the engine is being removed by a novice,
a helper should be available. Advice and aid
from someone more experienced would also
be helpful. There are many instances when
one person cannot simultaneously perform all
of the operations required when lifting the
engine out of the vehicle.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange
for or obtain all of the tools and equipment
you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of
the equipment necessary to perform engine
removal and refitting safely and with relative
ease are (in addition to an engine hoist) a
heavy duty trolley jack, complete sets of
spanners and sockets as described in the
front of this manual, wooden blocks and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and petrol. If
the hoist must be rented, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance and perform all of the
operations possible without it beforehand.
This will save you money and time.
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for
quite a while. A machine workshop will be
required to perform some of the work which
the do-it-yourselfer can’t accomplish without
special equipment. These shops often have a
busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to
consult them before removing the engine in
order to accurately estimate the amount of
time required to rebuild or repair components
that may need work.
Always be extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine. Serious injury can
result from careless actions. Plan ahead, take
your time and a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully.
6 Engine- removal and refitting
3
Note:Read through the entire Section before
beginning this procedure. It is recommended
to remove the engine and transmission from
the top as a unit, then separate the engine
from the transmission on the workshop floor. If
the transmission is not being serviced, it is
possible to leave the transmission in the
vehicle and remove the engine from the top by
itself, by removing the crankshaft damper and
tilting up the front end of the engine for
clearance,but access to the upper
bellhousing bolts is only practical when the
rear transmission mount and driveshaft have
been removed and the transmission is angled
down with a trolley jack.
Removal
1Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
3Place protective covers on the wings and
cowl and remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
4Remove the battery and battery tray.
5Remove the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
6Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Drain the cooling system and
engine oil and remove the drivebelts (see
Chapter 1).
7Clearly label, then disconnect all vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
harness connectors and earth straps.
Masking tape and/or a touch up paint
applicator work well for marking items (see
illustration). Take instant photos or sketch
the locations of components and brackets.
8Remove the cooling fan(s) and radiator (see
Chapter 3).
9Disconnect the heater hoses.
10Release the residual fuel pressure in the
tank by removing the petrol cap, then detach
the fuel lines connecting the engine to the
chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all open
fittings.
2B•4 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.6 A compression gauge with a threaded
fitting for the spark plug hole is preferred
over the type that requires hand pressure
to maintain the seal - be sure to block
open the throttle valve as far as possible
during the compression check!
6.7 Label both ends of each wire and hose
before disconnecting it
3261 Jaguar XJ6