1997 JAGUAR XJ6 ABS

11If you installed another pair of self-
levelling shocks, or removed and installed the
same pair of self-levelling shocks, be sure to
top up the power hydraulic system reservoir
(see Chapter 1).
11 Hub carrier (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Remove the ABS sensor, the ABS harness
clip and cut off the cable tie which secures the
ABS harness to the carrier (see illustration).
5Remove the nut and bolt which attach the
carrier to the control arm (see illustration).
6Remove the hub carrier assembly.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
12 Hub and bearing (rear)-
renewal
4
If you want to renew the rear hub and
bearing assembly (or the ABS trigger wheel),
remove the hub carrier (see Section 11), then
take the carrier to a Jaguar dealer service
department or to an automotive machine
workshop. These parts require a hydraulic
press and special fixtures to dismantle and
reassemble.
13 Control arm (rear)-
removal and refitting
4
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the rear of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the rear caliper and brake pads,
the caliper bracket, the brake disc, the
handbrake cable and the handbrake shoe
assembly (see Chapter 9).
3Disconnect the outer end of the propshaft
from the hub carrier (see Chapter 8).
4Disconnect the lower end of the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly from the
control arm (see Section 10).
5Remove the hub carrier (see Section 11).
6Remove the control arm pivot bolt nut (see
illustration).
7Support the differential/crossmember
assembly with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood between the jack head and the
differential to protect the differential.
Disconnect the lower end of the differential
tie-bar (see illustration)and carefully lower
the differential crossmember just enough toallow the control arm pivot bolt to be pulled
out to the rear without hitting the boot well.
8Remove the control arm.
9Inspect the control arm pivot bolt bushings.
If they’re cracked, dried out or torn, take the
arm to an automotive machine workshop and
have them replaced.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
all suspension fasteners to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. Tighten all
brake fasteners to the torque listed in the
Chapter 9 Specifications.
14 Steering wheel-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: If your car is equipped
with an airbag, do not attempt
this procedure. Have it done by a
dealer service department or
other qualified repair workshop.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the radio in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
10•8 Suspension and steering systems
13.6 Hold the pivot bolt and unscrew
the nut13.7 Remove this nut (arrowed) and bolt
from the lower end of each tie-bar (right
above the control arm pivot)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.4 Before detaching the hub carrier from the rear control arm,
remove the ABS sensor (left arrow), detach the ABS harness clip
(right arrow) and cut the cable tie securing the harness
11.5 To detach the hub carrier from the rear control arm, remove
the carrier-to-control arm nut and bolt

again with a dry cloth. Never use alcohol,
petrol, nail polish remover or thinner to clean
leather upholstery.
3After cleaning, regularly treat leather
upholstery with a leather wax. Never use car
wax on leather upholstery.
4In areas where the interior of the vehicle is
subject to bright sunlight, cover leather seats
with a sheet if the vehicle is to be left out for
any length of time.
5 Body repair- minor damage
3
Repair of minor scratches
1If the scratch is superficial and does not
penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is
very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area
with a fine rubbing compound to remove
loose paint and built-up wax. Rinse the area
with clean water.
2Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a
small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of
paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then blend it into the surrounding
paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing
compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the
scratch area.
3If the scratch has penetrated the paint and
exposed the metal of the body, causing the
metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove all loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife,
then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area
with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can
be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin
paste, which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch
hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth
around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in
thinner and then quickly wipe it along the
surface of the scratch. This will ensure that
the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this section.
Repair of dents
4When repairing dents, the first job is to pull
the dent out until the affected area is as close
as possible to its original shape. There is no
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
restored to its original contours. It is better to
bring the level of the dent up to a point which
is about 1/8-inch below the level of the
surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is
very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out
at all.
5If the back side of the dent is accessible, it
can be hammered out gently from behindusing a soft-face hammer. While doing this,
hold a block of wood firmly against the
opposite side of the metal to absorb the
hammer blows and prevent the metal from
being stretched.
6If the dent is in a section of the body which
has double layers, or some other factor makes
it inaccessible from behind, a different
technique is required. Drill several small holes
through the metal inside the damaged area,
particularly in the deeper sections. Screw
long, self-tapping screws into the holes just
enough for them to get a good grip in the
metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by
pulling on the protruding heads of the screws
with locking pliers.
7The next stage of repair is the removal of
paint from the damaged area and from an
inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is
done with a wire brush or sanding disc in a
drill motor, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand with sandpaper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or
the tang of a file, or drill small holes in the
affected area. This will provide a good grip
for the filler material. To complete the repair,
see the subsection on filling and painting later
in this Section.
Repair of rust holes or gashes
8Remove all paint from the affected area and
from an inch or so of the surrounding metal
using a sanding disc or wire brush mounted in
a drill motor. If these are not available, a few
sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as
effectively.
9With the paint removed, you will be able to
determine the severity of the corrosion and
decide whether to replace the whole panel, if
possible, or repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think and it is often quicker to refit a
new panel than to repair large areas of rust.
10Remove all trim pieces from the affected
area except those which will act as a guide to
the original shape of the damaged body, such
as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal that is badly affected by rust.
Hammer the edges of the hole in to create a
slight depression for the filler material.
11Wire brush the affected area to remove
the powdery rust from the surface of the
metal. If the back of the rusted area is
accessible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint.
12Before filling is done, block the hole in
some way. This can be done with sheet metal
riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing
the hole with wire mesh.
13Once the hole is blocked off, the affected
area can be filled and painted. See the
following subsection on filling and painting.
Filling and painting
14Many types of body fillers are available,
but generally speaking, body repair kits which
contain filler paste and a tube of resinhardener are best for this type of repair work.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be necessary for imparting a smooth and
contoured finish to the surface of the filler
material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a
clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the
hardener sparingly). Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions on the package,
otherwise the filler will set incorrectly.
15Using the applicator, apply the filler paste
to the prepared area. Draw the applicator
across the surface of the filler to achieve the
desired contour and to level the filler surface.
As soon as a contour that approximates the
original one is achieved, stop working the
paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to
stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin
layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the
level of the filler is just above the surrounding
metal.
16Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed with a body file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper
should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper
and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper.
Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat
rubber or wooden block, otherwise the
surface of the filler will not be completely flat.
During the sanding of the filler surface, the
wet-or-dry paper should be periodically rinsed
in water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is produced in the final stage.
17At this point, the repair area should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair
area with clean water until all of the dust
produced by the sanding operation is gone.
18Spray the entire area with a light coat of
primer. This will reveal any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair the
imperfections with fresh filler paste or glaze
filler and once more smooth the surface with
sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair
procedure until you are satisfied that the
surface of the filler and the feathered edge of
the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with
clean water and allow it to dry completely.
19The repair area is now ready for painting.
Spray painting must be carried out in a warm,
dry, windless and dust free atmosphere.
These conditions can be created if you have
access to a large indoor work area, but if you
are forced to work in the open, you will have
to pick the day very carefully. If you are
working indoors, dousing the floor in the work
area with water will help settle the dust which
would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area
is confined to one body panel, mask off the
surrounding panels. This will help minimise
the effects of a slight mismatch in paint
colour. Trim pieces such as chrome strips,
door handles, etc., will also need to be
masked off or removed. Use masking tape
and several thickness of newspaper for the
masking operations.
20Before spraying, shake the paint can
thoroughly, then spray a test area until the
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
3261 Jaguar XJ6

wash system, radio memory and the ABS
main feed and pump circuits.
In-line fuses are located through out the
vehicle depending on the year, make and
model. Consult the wiring diagrams at the end
of this Chapter for further information.
In-line fuses also have a blade terminal
design, which allow fingertip removal and
renewal. If an electrical component fails,
always check the fuse first. A blown fuse is
easily identified through the clear plastic
body. Inspect the element for evidence of
damage (see illustration 3.3).
Be sure to renew blown fuses with the
correct type. Fuses are usually colour-coded
to indicate their rating. Fuses of different
ratings are physically interchangeable, but
only fuses of the proper rating should be
used. Replacing a fuse with one of a different
value than specified is not recommended.
Each electrical circuit needs a specific
amount of protection. The amperage value of
each fuse is moulded into the fuse body.If the renewal fuse immediately fails, don’t
renew it again until the cause of the problem
is isolated and corrected. Don’t substitute
anything else for the fuse. In most cases, this
will be a short circuit in the wiring caused by a
broken or deteriorated wire.
5 Circuit breakers-
general information
Circuit breakers generally protect
components such as electric windows, central
locking and headlights. On some models the
circuit breaker resets itself automatically, so
an electrical overload in the circuit will cause it
to fail momentarily, then come back on. If the
circuit doesn’t come back on, check it
immediately. Once the condition is corrected,
the circuit breaker will resume its normal
function. Some circuit breakers have a button
on top and must be reset manually.To test a circuit breaker, use an ohmmeter
to check continuity between the terminals. A
reading of zero to 1.0 ohms indicates a good
circuit breaker. An open circuit reading on the
meter indicates a bad circuit breaker.
6 Relays- general information
and testing
2
General information
Several electrical accessories in the vehicle,
such as the fuel injection system, electric
windows, central locking, etc, use relays to
transmit the electrical signal to the component.
Relays use a low-current circuit (the control
circuit) to open and close a high-current circuit
(the power circuit). If the relay is defective, that
component will not operate properly. The
relays are mounted throughout the vehicle (see
illustrations). If a faulty relay is suspected, it
Body electrical system 12•3
12
3261 Jaguar XJ6 1988 to 1989 relay location details

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Use of EnglishREF•3
As the main part of this book has been written in the US, it uses the appropriate US component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these
differ from those used in the UK. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. When ordering spare parts,
remember the parts list may use some of these words:
AMERICAN ENGLISH
Aluminum Aluminium
Antenna Aerial
Authorized Authorised
Auto parts stores Motor factors
Axleshaft Halfshaft
Back-up Reverse
Barrel Choke/venturi
Block Chock
Box-end wrench Ring spanner
Bushing Bush
Carburetor Carburettor
Center Centre
Coast Freewheel
Color Colour
Convertible Drop head coupe
Cotter pin Split pin
Counterclockwise Anti-clockwise
Countershaft (of gearbox) Layshaft
Dashboard Facia
Denatured alcohol Methylated spirit
Dome lamp Interior light
Driveaxle Driveshaft
Driveshaft Propeller shaft
Fender Wing/mudguard
Firewall Bulkhead
Flashlight Torch
Float bowl Float chamber
Floor jack Trolley jack
Freeway, turnpike etc Motorway
Freeze plug Core plug
Frozen Seized
Gas tank Petrol tank
Gasoline (gas) Petrol
Gearshift Gearchange
Generator (DC) Dynamo
Ground (electrical) Earth
Header Exhaust manifold
Heat riser Hot spot
High Top gear
Hood (engine cover) Bonnet
Installation Refitting
Intake Inlet
Jackstands Axle stands
Jumper cable Jump lead
Keeper Collet
Kerosene Paraffin
Knock pin Roll pin
Lash Clearance
Lash Free-play
Latch Catch
Latches Locks
License plate Number plate
Light Lamp
Lock (for valve spring retainer) Split cotter (for valve spring cap)
Lopes Hunts
Lug nut/bolt Wheel nut/bolt
Metal chips or debris Swarf
Misses Misfires
AMERICAN ENGLISH
Muffler Silencer
Odor Odour
Oil pan Sump
Open flame Naked flame
Panel wagon/van Van
Parking brake Handbrake
Parking light Sidelight
Pinging Pinking
Piston pin or wrist pin Gudgeon pin
Piston pin or wrist pin Small end, little end
Pitman arm Drop arm
Power brake booster Servo unit
Primary shoe (of brake) Leading shoe (of brake)
Prussian blue Engineer’s blue
Pry Prise (force apart)
Prybar Lever
Prying Levering
Quarter window Quarterlight
Recap Retread
Release cylinder Slave cylinder
Repair shop Garage
Replacement Renewal
Ring gear (of differential) Crownwheel
Rocker panel (beneath doors) Sill panel (beneath doors)
Rod bearing Big-end bearing
Rotor/disk Disc (brake)
Secondary shoe (of brake) Trailing shoe (of brake)
Sedan Saloon
Setscrew, Allen screw Grub screw
Shock absorber, shock Damper
Snap-ring Circlip
Soft top Hood
Spacer Distance piece
Spare tire Spare wheel
Spark plug wires HT leads
Spindle arm Steering arm
Stabilizer or sway bar Anti-roll bar
Station wagon Estate car
Stumbles Hesitates
Tang or lock Tab washer
Throw-out bearing Thrust bearing
Tie-rod or connecting rod (of steering) Trackrod
Tire Tyre
Transmission Gearbox
Troubleshooting Fault finding/diagnosis
Trunk Boot (luggage compartment)
Turn signal Indicator
TV (throttle valve) cable Kickdown cable
Unpublicized Unpublicised
Valve cover Rocker cover
Valve lifter Tappet
Valve lifter or tappet Cam follower or tappet
Vapor Vapour
Vise Vice
Wheel cover Roadwheel trim
Whole drive line Transmission
Windshield Windscreen
Wrench Spanner

3261 Jaguar XJ6
General repair proceduresREF•5
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar tool. Alternatively, a number of self-
tapping screws may be screwed into the seal,
and these used as a purchase for pliers or
similar in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
MOT test checksREF•9
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•10MOT test checks
Exhaust system
MStart the engine. With your assistant
holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the
entire system for leaks. Repair or renew
leaking sections.
Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,
and securely support it on axle stands.
Position the stands clear of the suspension
assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are
clear of the ground and that the steering
can be turned from lock to lock.
Steering mechanism
MHave your assistant turn the steering from
lock to lock. Check that the steering turns
smoothly, and that no part of the steering
mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls
any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body
structure.
MExamine the steering rack rubber gaiters
for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips.
If power steering is fitted, check for signs of
damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or
connections. Also check for excessive
stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing
split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion
of the body structure within 30 cm of any
steering component attachment point.
Front and rear suspension and
wheel bearings
MStarting at the front right-hand side, grasp
the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock
positions and shake it vigorously. Check for
free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings,
suspension balljoints, or suspension mount-
ings, pivots and attachments.
MNow grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous
inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for
roughness or tightness of the front wheel
bearing.
MIf excess free play is suspected at a
component pivot point, this can be confirmed
by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and
levering between the mounting and the
component attachment. This will confirm
whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its
retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt
holes can often become elongated).
MCarry out all the above checks at the other
front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
MExamine the suspension struts (when
applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion,
or damage to the casing. Also check the
security of the mounting points.
MIf coil springs are fitted, check that the
spring ends locate in their seats, and that the
spring is not corroded, cracked or broken.
MIf leaf springs are fitted, check that all
leaves are intact, that the axle is securely
attached to each spring, and that there is no
deterioration of the spring eye mountings,
bushes, and shackles.MThe same general checks apply to vehicles
fitted with other suspension types, such as
torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc.
Ensure that all mountings and attachments are
secure, that there are no signs of excessive
wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic
types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged
pipes.
MInspect the shock absorbers for signs of
serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the
mounting bushes or attachments, or damage
to the body of the unit.
Driveshafts
(fwd vehicles only)
MRotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or
damage. Also check that each driveshaft is
straight and undamaged.
Braking system
MIf possible without dismantling, check
brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure
that the friction lining material has not worn
excessively, (A) and that the discs are not
fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).
MExamine all the rigid brake pipes
underneath the vehicle, and the flexible
hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing
or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of
bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or
deterioration of the flexible hoses.
MLook for signs of fluid leaks at the brake
calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or
renew leaking components.
MSlowly spin each wheel, while your
assistant depresses and releases the
footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating
and does not bind when the pedal is released.
3Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED
AND THE WHEELS FREE TO
TURN

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•16Fault finding
6 Suspension and steering systems
5 Braking system (continued)
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mAir in hydraulic lines (Chapter 9).
m mMaster cylinder mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).
m mMaster cylinder defective (Chapter 9).
Brake pedal travels to the floor - no resistance
m
mLittle or no fluid in the master cylinder reservoir caused by leaking
caliper piston(s), damaged or disconnected brake lines (Chapter 9).
Handbrake does not hold
m mHandbrake cable or handbrake shoes improperly adjusted
(Chapter 9).
m mHandbrake shoes need replacement (Chapter 9).
Note:Before attempting to diagnose the suspension and steering
systems, perform the following preliminary checks:
a) Tyres for wrong pressure and uneven wear.
b) Steering universal joints from the column to the steering gear for
loose connectors or wear.
c) Front and rear suspension and the rack and pinion assembly for
loose or damaged parts.
d) Out-of-round or out-of-balance tyres, bent rims and loose and/or
rough wheel bearings.
Vehicle pulls to one side
m mMismatched or uneven tyres (Chapter 10).
m mBroken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).
m mWheel alignment out of specifications (Chapter 10).
m mFront brakes dragging (Chapter 9).
Abnormal or excessive tyre wear
m
mWheel alignment out of specifications (Chapter 10).
m mSagging or broken springs (Chapter 10).
m mTyre out-of-balance (Chapter 10).
m mWorn shock absorber (Chapter 10).
m mOverloaded vehicle.
m mTyres not rotated regularly.
Wheel makes a “thumping” noise
m
mBlister or bump on tyre (Chapter 10).
m mImproper shock absorber action (Chapter 10).
Shimmy, shake or vibration
m
mTyre or wheel out-of-balance or out-of-round (Chapter 10).
m mLoose, worn or out-of-adjustment wheel bearings (Chapter 1).
m mWorn tie-rod ends (Chapter 10).
m mWorn balljoints (Chapter 10).
m mExcessive wheel runout (Chapter 10).
m mBlister or bump on tyre (Chapter 10).
Hard steering
m
mLack of lubrication at balljoints, tie-rod ends and rack-and-pinion
assembly (Chapter 1).
m mFront wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
m mLow tyre pressure(s) (Chapter 1).
Poor returnability of steering to centre
m
mLack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapter 1).
m mBinding in balljoints (Chapter 10).
m mBinding in steering column (Chapter 10).
m mLack of lubricant in rack-and-pinion assembly (Chapter 10).
m mFront wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
Abnormal noise at the front end
m
mLack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapter 1).
m mDamaged shock absorber mounting (Chapter 10).m mWorn control arm bushings or tie-rod ends (Chapter 10).
m mLoose stabiliser bar (Chapter 10).
m mLoose wheel nuts (Chapter).
m mLoose suspension bolts (Chapter 10).
Wander or poor steering stability
m
mMismatched or uneven tyres (Chapter 10).
m mLack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapter 1).
m mWorn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).
m mLoose stabiliser bar (Chapter 10).
m mBroken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).
m mFront or rear wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
Erratic steering when braking
m
mWheel bearings worn (Chapter 1).
m mBroken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).
m mLeaking wheel cylinder or caliper (Chapter 9).
m mWarped discs (Chapter 9).
Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners
or during braking
m mLoose stabiliser bar (Chapter 10).
m mWorn shock absorbers or mounts (Chapter 10).
m mBroken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).
m mOverloaded vehicle.
Suspension bottoms
m
mOverloaded vehicle.
m mWorn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).
m mIncorrect, broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10).
m mDefective power hydraulic system or leaking rear shock absorbers
(Chapter 10).
Cupped tyres (wear on both edges)
m mFront wheel or rear wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
m mWorn shock absorbers (Chapter 10).
m mWheel bearings worn (Chapter 10).
m mExcessive tyre or wheel runout (Chapter 10).
m mWorn balljoints (Chapter 10).
Excessive tyre wear on outside edge
m
mInflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mExcessive speed in turns.
m mFront end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in). Have
professionally aligned.
m mSuspension arm bent or twisted (Chapter 10).
Excessive tyre wear on inside edge
m
mInflation pressures incorrect (Chapter 1).
m mFront end alignment incorrect (toe-out). Have professionally
aligned.
m mLoose or damaged steering components (Chapter 10).