1997 JAGUAR XJ6 gas type

6Refit the compression gauge in the spark
plug hole (see illustration).
7Crank the engine over at least seven
compression strokes and watch the gauge.
The compression should build up quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which doesn’t build up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown cylinder head gasket (a
cracked cylinder head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
Record the highest gauge reading obtained.
8Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders and compare the results to this
Chapter’s Specifications.
9Add some engine oil (about three squirts
from a plunger-type oil can) to each cylinder,
through the spark plug hole, and repeat the
test.
10If the compression increases after the oil
is added, the piston rings are definitely worn.
If the compression doesn’t increase
significantly, the leakage is occurring at the
valves or cylinder head gasket. Leakage past
the valves may be caused by burned valve
seats and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent
valves.
11If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compression, there’s a strong possibility that
the cylinder head gasket between them is
blown. The appearance of coolant in the
combustion chambers or the crankcase
would verify this condition.
12If one cylinder is 20 percent lower than the
others, and the engine has a slightly rough
idle, a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft
could be the cause.
13If the compression is unusually high, the
combustion chambers are probably coated
with carbon deposits. If that’s the case, the
cylinder head(s) should be removed and
decarbonised.
14If compression is way down or varies
greatly between cylinders, it would be a goodidea to have a leak-down test performed by
an automotive repair workshop. This test will
pinpoint exactly where the leakage is
occurring and how severe it is.
5 Engine removal-
methods and precautions
If you’ve decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t
available, at the very least a flat, level, clean
work surface made of concrete or asphalt is
required.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine before beginning the removal
procedure will help keep tools clean and
organised.
An engine hoist or A-frame will also be
necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and transmission. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle.
If the engine is being removed by a novice,
a helper should be available. Advice and aid
from someone more experienced would also
be helpful. There are many instances when
one person cannot simultaneously perform all
of the operations required when lifting the
engine out of the vehicle.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange
for or obtain all of the tools and equipment
you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of
the equipment necessary to perform engine
removal and refitting safely and with relative
ease are (in addition to an engine hoist) a
heavy duty trolley jack, complete sets of
spanners and sockets as described in the
front of this manual, wooden blocks and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and petrol. If
the hoist must be rented, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance and perform all of the
operations possible without it beforehand.
This will save you money and time.
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for
quite a while. A machine workshop will be
required to perform some of the work which
the do-it-yourselfer can’t accomplish without
special equipment. These shops often have a
busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to
consult them before removing the engine in
order to accurately estimate the amount of
time required to rebuild or repair components
that may need work.
Always be extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine. Serious injury can
result from careless actions. Plan ahead, take
your time and a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully.
6 Engine- removal and refitting
3
Note:Read through the entire Section before
beginning this procedure. It is recommended
to remove the engine and transmission from
the top as a unit, then separate the engine
from the transmission on the workshop floor. If
the transmission is not being serviced, it is
possible to leave the transmission in the
vehicle and remove the engine from the top by
itself, by removing the crankshaft damper and
tilting up the front end of the engine for
clearance,but access to the upper
bellhousing bolts is only practical when the
rear transmission mount and driveshaft have
been removed and the transmission is angled
down with a trolley jack.
Removal
1Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
3Place protective covers on the wings and
cowl and remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
4Remove the battery and battery tray.
5Remove the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
6Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Drain the cooling system and
engine oil and remove the drivebelts (see
Chapter 1).
7Clearly label, then disconnect all vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
harness connectors and earth straps.
Masking tape and/or a touch up paint
applicator work well for marking items (see
illustration). Take instant photos or sketch
the locations of components and brackets.
8Remove the cooling fan(s) and radiator (see
Chapter 3).
9Disconnect the heater hoses.
10Release the residual fuel pressure in the
tank by removing the petrol cap, then detach
the fuel lines connecting the engine to the
chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all open
fittings.
2B•4 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.6 A compression gauge with a threaded
fitting for the spark plug hole is preferred
over the type that requires hand pressure
to maintain the seal - be sure to block
open the throttle valve as far as possible
during the compression check!
6.7 Label both ends of each wire and hose
before disconnecting it
3261 Jaguar XJ6

2Using a gasket scraper, remove all traces of
gasket material from the engine block. Be very
careful not to nick or gouge the gasket sealing
surfaces.
3Remove the main bearing caps and
separate the bearing inserts from the caps
and the engine block. Tag the bearings,
indicating which cylinder they were removed
from and whether they were in the cap or the
engine block, then set them aside.
4Remove all of the threaded oil gallery plugs
from the engine block. The plugs are usually
very tight - they may have to be drilled out and
the holes retapped. Use new plugs when the
engine is reassembled.
5If the engine is extremely dirty, it should be
taken to an automotive machine workshop to
be steam cleaned or hot tanked.
6After the engine block is returned, clean all
oil holes and oil galleries one more time.
Brushes specifically designed for this purpose
are available at most car accessory outlets.
Flush the passages with warm water until the
water runs clear, dry the engine block
thoroughly and wipe all machined surfaces
with a light, rust preventive oil. If you have
access to compressed air, use it to speed the
drying process and to blow out all the oil
holes and galleries. Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
7If the engine block isn’t extremely dirty or
sludged up, you can do an adequate cleaning
job with hot soapy water and a stiff brush.
Take plenty of time and do a thorough job.
Regardless of the cleaning method used, be
sure to clean all oil holes and galleries very
thoroughly, dry the engine block completely
and coat all machined surfaces with light oil.
8The threaded holes in the engine block
must be clean to ensure accurate torque
readings during reassembly. Run the proper
size tap into each of the holes to remove rust,
corrosion, thread sealant or sludge and
restore damaged threads (see illustration). If
possible, use compressed air to clear the
holes of debris produced by this operation.
9Refit the main bearing caps and tighten the
bolts finger tight.
10After coating the sealing surfaces of the
new core plugs with suitable sealant, refit
them in the engine block (see illustration).
Make sure they’re driven in straight and
seated properly or leakage could result.
Special tools are available for this purpose,
but a large socket, with an outside diameter
that will just slip into the core plug, a 1/2-inchdrive extension and a hammer will work just
as well.
11Apply non-hardening sealant (such as
Permatex no. 2 or Teflon pipe sealant) to the
new oil gallery plugs and thread them into the
holes in the engine block. Make sure they’re
tightened securely.
12If the engine isn’t going to be
reassembled right away, cover it with a large
plastic trash bag to keep it clean.
16 Engine block- inspection
2
1Before the engine block is inspected, it
should be cleaned as described in Section 15.
2Visually check the engine block for cracks,
rust and corrosion (see illustration 10.12).
Look for stripped threads in the threaded
holes. It’s also a good idea to have the engine
block checked for hidden cracks by an
automotive machine workshop that has the
special equipment to do this type of work,
especially if the vehicle had a history of
overheating or using coolant. If defects are
found, have the engine block repaired, if
possible, or renewed. If the top of the engine
block has been eroded by coolant leakage
and the erosion is near the cylinder bores, the
engine block must be renewed.
3Check the cylinder bores for scuffing and
scoring.
4Check the cylinders for taper and out-of-
round conditions as follows (see illustrations):
5Measure the diameter of each cylinder at
the top (just under the ridge area), centre and
bottom of the cylinder bore, parallel to the
crankshaft axis.
6Next, measure each cylinder’s diameter at
the same three locations perpendicular to the
crankshaft axis.
7The taper of each cylinder is the difference
between the bore diameter at the top of the
cylinder and the diameter at the bottom. The
out-of-round specification of the cylinder bore
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2B•11
2B
16.4a Measure the diameter of each
cylinder at 90° to engine centreline (A), and
parallel to engine centreline (B) - out-of-
round is the difference between A and B;
taper is the difference between A and B at
the top of the cylinder and A and B at the
bottom of the cylinder16.4b The ability to “feel” when the
telescoping gauge is at the correct point
will be developed over time, so work
slowly and repeat the check until you’re
satisfied that the bore measurement is
accurate
3261 Jaguar XJ6
15.8 All bolt holes in the engine block -
particularly the main bearing cap and
cylinder head bolt holes - should be
cleaned and restored with a tap (remove
debris from holes after this is done)15.10 A large socket on an extension can
be used to drive the new core plugs into
the bores
16.4c The gauge is then measured with a
micrometer to determine the bore size

10With everything disconnected, pull the
heat-air conditioning housing back and out
from under the dash.
Caution: Do not force anything. If the unit
gets stuck, determine where the inter-
ference is before a duct, wire or hose is
broken.
11Pry off the series of black metal clips
connecting the main housing to the evaporator
case, then separate the evaporator case and
pull out the evaporator core. Note:When
refitting the evaporator core into the case, be
sure to refit the foam insulation in the same
way it was installed originally.
12The evaporator core can be cleaned with a
“fin comb” and blown off with compressed air.13The expansion valve is located on the
right side of the bulkhead on the engine side.
To renew it, remove the battery (Chapter 5) for
better access. Disconnect the lines from the
back of the valve as in Step 2. Disconnect the
high and low-pressure hoses from the frontof
the expansion valve (see illustration).
14If the evaporator core is renewed, make
sure the technician adds 1.4 ounces of new
refrigerant oil (of a type compatible with your
type of refrigerant) to the system.
15The remainder of the refitting is the
reverse of the removal process. Be sure to
use new O-rings, and new gaskets on the
expansion valve.
16Have the system evacuated, charged and
leak tested by the workshop that discharged
it.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•15
3
17.13 Disconnect the lines at the front of
the expansion valve - always use two
spanners to avoid twisting a line - one
spanner holds the body of the valve
3261 Jaguar XJ6

special electrical device that provides circuit
protection by switching off the ignition and
fuel pump upon impact in the event of vehicle
collision. Later Jaguar models are equipped
with an additional specialised inertia switch.
This later device switches OFF all ignition fed
circuits, locks the fuel filler cap, locks the boot
(only if doors are locked) and unlocks the
doors if they are locked during the accident.
All these functions are directed by the inertia
switch. The inertia switch is located behind
the left kick panel. Refer to Chapter 12 for
more information.
Exhaust system
The exhaust system includes an exhaust
manifold equipped with an exhaust oxygen
sensor, a catalytic converter, an exhaust pipe,
and a silencer.
The catalytic converter is an emission
control device added to the exhaust system to
reduce pollutants. A single-bed converter is
used in combination with a three-way
(reduction) catalyst. See Chapter 6 for more
information regarding the catalytic converter.
2 Fuel pressure relief
1
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs near the work area, and don’t
work in a garage where a natural gas-type
appliance (such as a water heater or a
clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present.
Since petrol is carcinogenic, wear latex
gloves when there’s a possibility of being
exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on
your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap
and water. Mop up any spills immediately
and do not store fuel-soaked rags wherethey could ignite. The fuel system is under
constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are
to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in
the system must be relieved first. When
you perform any kind of work on the fuel
system, wear safety glasses and have a
Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.
1Before servicing any fuel system
component, you must relieve the fuel pressure
to minimise the risk of fire or personal injury.
2Remove the fuel filler cap - this will relieve
any pressure built up in the tank.
3Remove the fuel pump relay from the main
relay panel (see illustrations). Note:These
models are equipped with a fuel pump relay
that is located in various areas of the vehicle
depending on the year. On 1988 and 1989
models, the fuel pump relay is under the
glovebox. On 1990 to 1992 models, the fuel
pump relay is in the engine compartment on
the left side, attached to the brake pedal
hanger. On 1993 models, the fuel pump relay
is in the boot. On 1994 models, it’s in the
engine compartment on the right side of the
bulkhead. Refer to the relay location charts in
Chapter 12 for additional information.
4Start the engine and wait for the engine to
stall, then turn the ignition key to Off.
Disconnect the cable from the negativeterminal of the battery before beginning any
work on the fuel system.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
5The fuel system is now depressurised.
Note:Place a rag around the fuel line before
removing any hose clamp or fitting to prevent
any residual fuel from spilling onto the engine.
3 Fuel pump/fuel pressure-
check
2
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system. See
the Warning in Section 2.
Note: To perform the fuel pressure test, you
will need to obtain a fuel pressure gauge and
adapter set (fuel line fittings).
Note: On 1988 to 1990 models, the fuel pump
may chatter excessively and the engine may
stall frequently during hot weather. If stalling
occurs, the engine will restart after a cool-
down period. Dual fuel pumps can be installed
by a dealer service department or other
qualified repair facility to remedy this problem.
Preliminary inspection
1Should the fuel system fail to deliver the
proper amount of fuel, or any fuel at all,
inspect it as follows. Remove the fuel filler
cap. Have an assistant turn the ignition key to
the ON position (engine not running) while you
listen at the fuel filler opening. You should
hear a whirring sound that lasts for a couple of
seconds. On 1988 to 1990 models, listen
behind the left rear wheel (external fuel pump)
for the fuel pump sound.
2If you don’t hear anything, check the fuel
pump relay (see illustration 2.3a, b or c)and
4•2 Fuel and exhaust systems
2.3c On 1992 models, the fuel pump relay
is located in the left rear corner of the
engine compartment
3261 Jaguar XJ6 2.3a Relay locations on a 1988 model
2.3b Relay locations on a 1989 model

3261 Jaguar XJ6
6
Chapter 6
Emissions and engine control systems
EGR gas temperature sensor resistance
Temperature:
212° F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 to 100 k-ohms
400° F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 8 k-ohms
662° F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 to 350 ohms
Torque wrench settingNm lbf ft
Crankshaft sensor bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20 Air Injection Reactor (AIR) system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
CHECK ENGINE light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Section 3
Crankcase ventilation system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Electronic control system and ECU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Fuel tank cap gasket renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Information sensors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
On Board Diagnosis (OBD) system -
description and fault code access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
6•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
To minimise pollution of the atmosphere
from incompletely burned and evaporating
gases and to maintain good driveability and
fuel economy, a number of emission control
systems are used on these vehicles. They
include the:
Air Injection Reactor (AIR) system
Crankcase Ventilation system
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system
Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system
Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP)
system
Three-way catalytic converter (TWC)
system
The sections in this chapter include general
descriptions, checking procedures within the
scope of the home mechanic and component
renewal procedures (when possible) for each
of the systems listed above.
Before assuming an emissions control
system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and
ignition systems carefully (Chapters 4 and 5).
The diagnosis of some emission control
devices requires specialised tools, equipment
and training. If checking and servicing becometoo difficult or if a procedure is beyond the
scope of your skills, consult your dealer
service department or other repair workshop.
This doesn’t mean, however, that emission
control systems are particularly difficult to
maintain and repair. You can quickly and
easily perform many checks and do most of
the regular maintenance at home with
common tune-up and hand tools. Note:The
most frequent cause of emission problems is
simply a loose or broken electrical connector
or vacuum hose, so always check the
electrical connectors and vacuum hoses first.Pay close attention to any special
precautions outlined in this chapter. It should
be noted that the illustrations of the various
systems may not exactly match the system
installed on your vehicle because of changes
made by the manufacturer during production
or from year-to-year.
The Vehicle Emissions Control Information
(VECI) label and a vacuum hose diagram are
located under the bonnet (see illustrations).
These contain important emissions specifi-
cations and setting procedures, and a
vacuum hose schematic with emissions
1.6a The Vehicle Emissions Control
Information (VECI) label shows the types of
emission control systems installed, engine
information, etc (1992 model shown)
1.6b Typical vacuum hose routing label
(1992 model shown)

components identified. When servicing the
engine or emissions systems, the VECI label
in your particular vehicle should always be
checked for up-to-date information.
2 Electronic control system
and ECU
General description
Note: These models are susceptible to ECU
damage if water is allowed to build up in the
front cowl drain and overspill into the dash
area near the computer. Inspect and clear the
front cowl drain as a regular maintenance item
to keep the water draining properly. Remove
the duckbill-type rubber hose and inspect it
for clogging, collapsing or deterioration.
1The Lucas LH Engine Management system
controls the fuel injection system by means of
a microcomputer known as the Electronic
Control unit (ECU).
2The ECU receives signals from various
sensors which monitor changing engine
operating conditions such as intake air mass,
intake air temperature, coolant temperature,
engine rpm, acceleration/deceleration,
exhaust oxygen content, etc. These signals
are utilised by the ECU to determine the
correct injection duration.
3The system is analogous to the central
nervous system in the human body: The
sensors (nerve endings) constantly relay
signals to the ECU (brain), which processes
the data and, if necessary, sends out a
command to change the operating
parameters of the engine (body).
4Here’s a specific example of how one
portion of this system operates: An oxygen
sensor, located in the exhaust manifold,
constantly monitors the oxygen content of the
exhaust gas. If the percentage of oxygen in
the exhaust gas is incorrect, an electrical
signal is sent to the ECU. The ECU takes this
information, processes it and then sends a
command to the fuel injection system telling it
to change the air/fuel mixture. This happens in
a fraction of a second and it goes on
continuously when the engine is running. The
end result is an air/fuel mixture ratio which is
constantly maintained at a predetermined
ratio, regardless of driving conditions.
5In the event of a sensor malfunction, a
backup circuit will take over to provide
driveability until the problem is identified and
fixed.
Precautions
6Follow these steps:
a) Always disconnect the power by either
turning off the ignition switch or
disconnecting the battery terminals before
removing electrical connectors.
Warning: Later models are
equipped with airbags. To
prevent accidental deployment ofthe airbag, which could cause personal
injury, DO NOT work in the vicinity of the
steering column or instrument panel. The
manufacturer recommends that, on airbag
equipped models, the following procedure
should be left to a dealer service
department or other repair workshop
because of the special tools and techniques
required to disable the airbag system.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
b) When refitting a battery, be particularly
careful to avoid reversing the positive and
negative battery cables. Also, make sure
the ignition key is in the Off position when
connecting or disconnecting the battery.
c) Do not subject EFI components,
emissions-related components or the
ECU to severe impact during removal or
refitting.
d) Do not be careless during fault diagnosis.
Even slight terminal contact can invalidate
a testing procedure and damage one of
the numerous transistor circuits.
e) Never attempt to work on the ECU or
open the ECU cover. The ECU is
protected by a government-mandated
extended warranty that will be nullified if
you tamper with or damage the ECU.
f) If you are inspecting electronic control
system components during rainy weather,
make sure that water does not enter any
part. When washing the engine
compartment, do not spray these parts or
their electrical connectors with water.
g) These models are susceptible to ECU
damage if water is allowed to build up in
the front cowl drain and overspill into the
dash area. Inspect and clear the front
cowl drain system as a regular
maintenance item to keep the water
draining properly. Remove the duckbill
type rubber hose and inspect it for
clogging, collapsing or deterioration.
ECU removal and refitting
7Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery (see Chapter 5).
Warning: Later models are
equipped with airbags. To
prevent the accidental deploy-
ment of the airbag, which could
cause personal injury, DO NOT work in the
vicinity of the steering column or
instrument panel. The manufacturer
recommends that, on airbag equipped
models, the following procedure should be
left to a dealer service department or other
repair workshop because of the special
tools and techniques required to disable
the airbag system.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.8Remove the lower instrument panel on the
passenger side under the glove compartment
(see Chapter 11).
9Remove the glove compartment from the
passenger compartment (see Chapter 11).
10Remove the screws from the ECU bracket
(see illustration).
11Lower the ECU and unplug the electrical
connectors.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal.
3 On Board Diagnosis (OBD)
system- description and fault
code access
2
Note: 1990 and 1991 models may set
Code 69 erroneously. If the battery voltage
drops sufficiently and the ignition key is
switched quickly from OFF to START, battery
voltage will be lowered and during cranking
causing a delayed park/neutral signal from the
decoder module to the ECU. Check all the
battery connections and the condition of the
battery and then check the rotary switch
adjustment in Chapter 7 to remedy this code.
General information
1The ECU contains a built-in self-diagnosis
system which detects and identifies
malfunctions occurring in the network. When
the ECU detects a problem, three things
happen: the CHECK ENGINE light comes on,
the fault is identified and a diagnostic code is
recorded and stored. The ECU stores the
failure code assigned to the specific problem
area until the diagnosis system is cancelled.
Note: 1988 and 1989 models are not
equipped with long term memory. It is
possible to access the codes but the operator
must remember to NOT turn the ignition key to
the OFF position after the CHECK ENGINE
light has been noticed. The codes will be lost
and it will be necessary to start the engine and
operate the vehicle through a complete drive
cycle to allow the fault code(s) to be set once
again. Instead of turning the ignition key to the
OFF position, simply stop at position II (key
ON but engine not running) to retain the fault
codes.
6•2 Emissions and engine control systems
3261 Jaguar XJ6
2.10 The ECU is located behind the
passenger’s side glovebox near the footrest
area. Remove the mounting screws
(arrowed) and carefully lower the ECU

temperature INCREASES, the resistance
values will DECREASE. A failure in this sensor
circuit should set a Code 3 (1988 and 1989)
or 13 (1990 to 1994). This code indicates a
failure in the coolant temperature sensor
circuit, so in most cases the appropriate
solution to the problem will be either repair of
a connector or wire, or renewal of the sensor.
Check
2To check the sensor, measure its resistance
value (see illustration)while it is completely
cold (60 to 80° F = 1500 to 3000 ohms). Next,
start the engine and warm it up until it reaches
operating temperature. The resistance should
be lower (180 to 200° F = 280 to 350 ohms).
3If the resistance values of the coolant
temperature sensor are correct, check the
circuit for the proper signal voltage. Turn the
ignition key ON (engine not running) and
check for reference voltage with a high-
impedance digital voltmeter (see illustration).
It should be approximately 5 volts.
Renewal
Warning: Wait until the engine is
completely cool before
beginning this procedure.
4To remove the sensor, depress the locking
tabs, unplug the electrical connector, then
carefully unscrew the sensor.
Caution: Handle the coolant sensor with
care. Damage to this sensor will affect the
operation of the entire fuel injection
system.
5Before refitting the new sensor, wrap the
threads with Teflon sealing tape to prevent
leakage and thread corrosion.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Oxygen sensor
Note:An oxygen sensor splash shield is
equipped on models from VIN 664941 (mid-1990) to present. This shield prevents the self
diagnosis system from setting an intermittent
and erroneous code 44. Whenever replacing
an oxygen sensor, make sure the splash shield
is in place.
General description
7These models are equipped with a heated
oxygen sensor system. The oxygen sensor is
mounted ahead of the front catalytic converter
and monitors the exhaust gases before they
are changed. The electrical heating system
incorporated into the oxygen sensor allows for
quicker warm-up time and more efficient
oxygen content monitoring. The oxygen sensor
monitors the oxygen content of the exhaust
gas stream. The oxygen content in the exhaust
reacts with the oxygen sensor to produce a
voltage output which varies from 0.1 volts (high
oxygen, lean mixture) to 0.9 volts (low oxygen,
rich mixture). The ECU constantly monitors this
variable voltage output to determine the ratio of
oxygen to fuel in the mixture. The ECU alters
the air/fuel mixture ratio by controlling the pulse
width (open time) of the fuel injectors. A mixture
ratio of 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel is the ideal
mixture ratio for minimising exhaust emissions,
thus allowing the catalytic converter to operate
at maximum efficiency. This ratio of 14.7 to 1 is
the one which the ECU and the oxygen sensor
attempt to maintain at all times.
8The oxygen sensor produces no voltage
when it is below its normal operating
temperature of about 600° F. During this initial
period before warm-up, the ECU operates in
open loop mode.
9If the engine reaches normal operating
temperature and/or has been running for two or
more minutes, and if the oxygen sensor is
producing a steady signal voltage below
0.45 volts at 1500 or more rpm, the ECU will set
a Code 4 (1988 and 1989) or 26 (1990 to 1994).
10When there is a problem with the oxygen
sensor or its circuit, the ECU operates in theopen loop mode - that is, it controls fuel
delivery in accordance with a programmed
default value instead of feedback information
from the oxygen sensor.
11The proper operation of the oxygen
sensor depends on four conditions:
a) Electrical - The low voltages generated by
the sensor depend upon good, clean
connections which should be checked
whenever a malfunction of the sensor is
suspected or indicated.
b) Outside air supply - The sensor is
designed to allow air circulation to the
internal portion of the sensor. Whenever
the sensor is removed and installed or
renewed, make sure the air passages are
not restricted.
c) Proper operating temperature - The ECU
will not react to the sensor signal until the
sensor reaches approximately 600° F.
This factor must be taken into
consideration when evaluating the
performance of the sensor.
d) Unleaded fuel - The use of unleaded fuel
is essential for proper operation of the
sensor. Make sure the fuel you are using
is of this type.
12In addition to observing the above
conditions, special care must be taken
whenever the sensor is serviced.
a) The oxygen sensor has a permanently
attached pigtail and electrical connector
which should not be removed from the
sensor. Damage to or removal of the
pigtail or electrical connector can
adversely affect operation of the sensor.
b) Grease, dirt and other contaminants
should be kept away from the electrical
connector and the louvered end of the
sensor.
c) Do not use cleaning solvents of any kind
on the oxygen sensor.
d) Do not drop or roughly handle the sensor.
6•4 Emissions and engine control systems
3261 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 The coolant temperature sensor is in the thermostat housing.
To check the coolant temperature sensor, use an ohmmeter to
measure the resistance between the two sensor terminals
4.3 Check for reference voltage to the electrical connector for the
coolant sensor with the ignition key ON (engine not running).
It should be approximately 5.0 volts

again with a dry cloth. Never use alcohol,
petrol, nail polish remover or thinner to clean
leather upholstery.
3After cleaning, regularly treat leather
upholstery with a leather wax. Never use car
wax on leather upholstery.
4In areas where the interior of the vehicle is
subject to bright sunlight, cover leather seats
with a sheet if the vehicle is to be left out for
any length of time.
5 Body repair- minor damage
3
Repair of minor scratches
1If the scratch is superficial and does not
penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is
very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area
with a fine rubbing compound to remove
loose paint and built-up wax. Rinse the area
with clean water.
2Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a
small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of
paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then blend it into the surrounding
paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing
compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the
scratch area.
3If the scratch has penetrated the paint and
exposed the metal of the body, causing the
metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove all loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife,
then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area
with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can
be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin
paste, which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch
hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth
around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in
thinner and then quickly wipe it along the
surface of the scratch. This will ensure that
the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this section.
Repair of dents
4When repairing dents, the first job is to pull
the dent out until the affected area is as close
as possible to its original shape. There is no
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
restored to its original contours. It is better to
bring the level of the dent up to a point which
is about 1/8-inch below the level of the
surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is
very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out
at all.
5If the back side of the dent is accessible, it
can be hammered out gently from behindusing a soft-face hammer. While doing this,
hold a block of wood firmly against the
opposite side of the metal to absorb the
hammer blows and prevent the metal from
being stretched.
6If the dent is in a section of the body which
has double layers, or some other factor makes
it inaccessible from behind, a different
technique is required. Drill several small holes
through the metal inside the damaged area,
particularly in the deeper sections. Screw
long, self-tapping screws into the holes just
enough for them to get a good grip in the
metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by
pulling on the protruding heads of the screws
with locking pliers.
7The next stage of repair is the removal of
paint from the damaged area and from an
inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is
done with a wire brush or sanding disc in a
drill motor, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand with sandpaper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or
the tang of a file, or drill small holes in the
affected area. This will provide a good grip
for the filler material. To complete the repair,
see the subsection on filling and painting later
in this Section.
Repair of rust holes or gashes
8Remove all paint from the affected area and
from an inch or so of the surrounding metal
using a sanding disc or wire brush mounted in
a drill motor. If these are not available, a few
sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as
effectively.
9With the paint removed, you will be able to
determine the severity of the corrosion and
decide whether to replace the whole panel, if
possible, or repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think and it is often quicker to refit a
new panel than to repair large areas of rust.
10Remove all trim pieces from the affected
area except those which will act as a guide to
the original shape of the damaged body, such
as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal that is badly affected by rust.
Hammer the edges of the hole in to create a
slight depression for the filler material.
11Wire brush the affected area to remove
the powdery rust from the surface of the
metal. If the back of the rusted area is
accessible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint.
12Before filling is done, block the hole in
some way. This can be done with sheet metal
riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing
the hole with wire mesh.
13Once the hole is blocked off, the affected
area can be filled and painted. See the
following subsection on filling and painting.
Filling and painting
14Many types of body fillers are available,
but generally speaking, body repair kits which
contain filler paste and a tube of resinhardener are best for this type of repair work.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be necessary for imparting a smooth and
contoured finish to the surface of the filler
material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a
clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the
hardener sparingly). Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions on the package,
otherwise the filler will set incorrectly.
15Using the applicator, apply the filler paste
to the prepared area. Draw the applicator
across the surface of the filler to achieve the
desired contour and to level the filler surface.
As soon as a contour that approximates the
original one is achieved, stop working the
paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to
stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin
layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the
level of the filler is just above the surrounding
metal.
16Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed with a body file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper
should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper
and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper.
Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat
rubber or wooden block, otherwise the
surface of the filler will not be completely flat.
During the sanding of the filler surface, the
wet-or-dry paper should be periodically rinsed
in water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is produced in the final stage.
17At this point, the repair area should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair
area with clean water until all of the dust
produced by the sanding operation is gone.
18Spray the entire area with a light coat of
primer. This will reveal any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair the
imperfections with fresh filler paste or glaze
filler and once more smooth the surface with
sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair
procedure until you are satisfied that the
surface of the filler and the feathered edge of
the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with
clean water and allow it to dry completely.
19The repair area is now ready for painting.
Spray painting must be carried out in a warm,
dry, windless and dust free atmosphere.
These conditions can be created if you have
access to a large indoor work area, but if you
are forced to work in the open, you will have
to pick the day very carefully. If you are
working indoors, dousing the floor in the work
area with water will help settle the dust which
would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area
is confined to one body panel, mask off the
surrounding panels. This will help minimise
the effects of a slight mismatch in paint
colour. Trim pieces such as chrome strips,
door handles, etc., will also need to be
masked off or removed. Use masking tape
and several thickness of newspaper for the
masking operations.
20Before spraying, shake the paint can
thoroughly, then spray a test area until the
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
3261 Jaguar XJ6