1997 JAGUAR XJ6 Engine

3261 Jaguar XJ6
9
Chapter 9
Braking system
General
Brake fluid type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Minimum brake pad thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake disc minimum permissible thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cast into disc
Parallelism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.013 mm (0.0005 inch) maximum
Runout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.102 mm (0.004 inch) maximum
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Brake servo mounting nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Caliper bolts (front and rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 to 40 23 to 29
Caliper bracket bolts
Front bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 to 128 75 to 94
Rear bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 62 40 to 45
Master cylinder-to-brake servo nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 20
Wheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Brake check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Brake fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Brake hoses and lines - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Brake hydraulic system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Brake light switch - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Brake servo - general information, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 7Disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Disc brake pads - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Handbrake cable - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Handbrake cables - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Handbrake shoes - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
9•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
All models covered by this manual are
equipped with hydraulically operated front
and rear disc brake systems. Both front and
rear brakes are self adjusting.
Hydraulic system
The hydraulic system is divided into
two separate circuits. The master cylinder has
separate reservoirs for the two circuits, and, in
the event of a leak or failure in one hydraulic
circuit, the other circuit will remain operative.
All models are equipped with an Anti-lock
Braking System (ABS).
Brake servo
A hydraulic brake servo system is used on
all models covered by this manual. Thissystem uses hydraulic pressure from an
engine-driven pump on models equipped with
a power hydraulic system, and an electric
pump on models without the power hydraulic
system.
Handbrake
The handbrake lever operates the rear
brakes through cable actuation. It’s activated
by a lever mounted in the centre console. The
handbrake assembly uses a pair of brake
shoes located inside the rear hub/brake disc.
Brake pad wear warning system
The brake pad wear warning system turns
on a red light in the instrument cluster when
the brake pads have worn down to the point
at which they must be replaced. Do NOT
ignore this reminder. If you don’t renew the
pads shortly after the brake pad wear warning
light comes on, the brake discs will be
damaged.The wear sensors are attached to the brake
pads. Once the pads wear down to the point
at which they’re flush with the sensor, the disc
grinds away the side of the sensor facing the
disc, the wire inside the sensor is broken, the
circuit is opened and the red light on the
instrument panel comes on.
Always check the sensor(s) when replacing
the pads. If you change the pads before the
warning light comes on, the sensor(s) may still
be good; once the light has come on, renew
the sensor.
Service
After completing any operation involving
dismantling of any part of the brake system,
always test drive the vehicle to check for
proper braking performance before resuming
normal driving. When testing the brakes,
perform the tests on a clean, dry, flat surface.
Conditions other than these can lead to
inaccurate test results.

Test the brakes at various speeds with both
light and heavy pedal pressure. The vehicle
should stop evenly without pulling to one side
or the other. Avoid locking the brakes,
because this slides the tyres and diminishes
braking efficiency and control of the vehicle.
Tyres, vehicle load and wheel alignment are
factors which also affect braking performance.
2 Anti-lock Brake system
(ABS)- general information
The Anti-lock Brake System is designed to
maintain vehicle steerability, directional stability
and optimum deceleration under severe
braking conditions on most road surfaces. It
does so by monitoring the rotational speed of
each wheel and controlling the brake line
pressure to each wheel during braking. This
prevents the wheels from locking up.
The ABS system has three main units - the
wheel speed sensors, the electronic control unit
and the modulator (hydraulic control unit). The
sensors - one at each wheel - send a variable
voltage signal to the electronic control unit,
which monitors these signals, compares them
to its program and determines whether a wheel
is about to lock up. When a wheel is about to
lock up, the control unit signals the hydraulic
unit to reduce hydraulic pressure (or not
increase it further) at that wheel’s brake caliper.
Pressure modulation is handled by three
electrically-operated solenoid valves - one for
each front wheel and one for the rear wheels -
inside the modulator.
If a problem develops within the system, an
“ABS” warning light will glow on the dashboard.
Sometimes, a visual inspection of the ABS
system can help you locate the problem.
Carefully inspect the ABS wiring harness. Pay
particularly close attention to the harness and
connections near each wheel. Look for signs of
chafing and other damage caused by
incorrectly routed wires. If a wheel sensor
harness is damaged, the sensor should be
replaced (the harness and sensor are integral).
Warning: Do NOT try to repair an
ABS wiring harness. The ABS
system is sensitive to even thesmallest changes in resistance. Repairing
the harness could alter resistance values
and cause the system to malfunction. If the
ABS wiring harness is damaged in any way,
it must be replaced.
Caution: Make sure the ignition is turned
off before unplugging or reattaching any
electrical connections.
Diagnosis and repair
If a dashboard warning light comes on and
stays on while the vehicle is in operation, the
ABS system requires attention. Although
special electronic ABS diagnostic testing tools
are necessary to properly diagnose the system,
you can perform a few preliminary checks
before taking the vehicle to a dealer service
department or other qualified repair workshop.
a) Check the brake fluid level in the master
cylinder reservoir.
b) Verify that all ABS system electrical
connectors in the engine compartment
are plugged in.
c) Check the fuses.
d) Follow the wiring harness to each front
wheel and to the differential sensor and
verify that all connections are secure and
that the wiring is undamaged.
If the above preliminary checks do not
rectify the problem, the vehicle should be
diagnosed by a dealer service department.
Due to the complex nature of this system, all
actual repair work must be done by a dealer
service department or other qualified repair
workshop.
3 Disc brake pads- renewal
2
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be replaced on both front wheels
or both rear wheels at the same
time - never renew the pads on
only one wheel. Also, the dust created by
the brake system may contain asbestos,
which is harmful to your health. Never blow
it out with compressed air and don’t inhale
any of it. An approved filtering mask should
be worn when working on the brakes. Do
not, under any circumstances, use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts. Use brake system cleaner only!
Note:The following procedure applies to both
the front and rear brake pads.
1Remove the cap from the brake fluid
reservoir and siphon off about two-thirds of
the fluid from the reservoir. Failing to do this
could result in fluid overflowing when the
caliper pistons are pressed into their bores.
2Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
3Remove the front wheels. Work on one
brake assembly at a time, using the
assembled brake for reference if necessary.
4Inspect the brake disc (see Section 5).
5Follow the accompanying photos,
beginning with illustration 3.5a, for the pad
removal procedure. Be sure to stay in order
and read the caption under each illustration.
9•2 Braking system
3.5a Before starting, wash down the
caliper and disc with brake cleaner
3.5b Attach a hose to the bleed screw,
open the bleed screw slightly and depress
the piston into the caliper. Tighten the
bleed screw when the piston bottoms
3.5c Remove the caliper mounting bolts
(upper bolt arrowed); use another spanner
to hold the flats of the caliper guide pins
while you back out the caliper bolts3.5d Remove the caliper . . .3.5e . . . and suspend it out of the way
with a piece of wire
3261 Jaguar XJ6

Refitting
8Place the disc on the hub and refit the disc
retaining screw. Tighten the screw securely.
9Refit the caliper mounting bracket, using a
new safety wire on the mounting bolts.
10Refit the brake pads and caliper (see
Section 3). Tighten all fasteners to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
11Refit the wheel and wheel nuts, then lower
the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the wheel
nuts to the specified torque (see Chapter 1
Specifications). Depress the brake pedal a
few times to bring the brake pads into contact
with the disc.
12Adjust the handbrake shoes, if necessary.
13Check the operation of the brakes
carefully, if possible before driving the vehicle
on public roads.
6 Master cylinder- removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Note:Although master cylinder parts and
rebuild kits are available for most models, we
recommend replacing the master cylinder with
a new or remanufactured unit, if possible.
Removal
1The master cylinder is connected to the
brake servo, which is attached to the pedal
box, in front of the bulkhead on the driver’s
side of the engine compartment.
2Remove as much fluid as you can from the
reservoir with a syringe.
3Place rags under the line fittings and
prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the
ends of the lines once they are disconnected.
Caution: Brake fluid will damage paint.
Cover all body parts and be careful not to
spill fluid during this procedure.
4Disconnect the electrical connector for the
low fluid level warning light (see illustration).
5Loosen the brake line fittings at the mastercylinder (see illustration). Use a flare-nut
spanner to prevent rounding off the nuts. Pull
the brake lines away from the master cylinder
slightly and plug the ends to prevent
contamination.
6Remove the nuts attaching the master
cylinder to the servo (see illustration). Pull
the master cylinder off the studs and lift it out
of the engine compartment. Again, be careful
not to spill fluid as this is done.
Overhaul
7Follow the accompanying photo sequence,
beginning with illustration 6.7a. Stay in order,don’t skip steps, read each caption and study
the photo carefully.
8Once you have dismantled the master
cylinder, clean everything thoroughly, blow
the parts dry with compressed air and
carefully inspect the secondary piston and the
bore of the master cylinder with a bright light.
If the secondary piston or the master cylinder
bore is damaged or worn, renew the master
cylinder with a new or rebuilt unit.
Bench bleeding procedure
9Before refitting a new or rebuilt master
cylinder it should be bench bled. Because it
9•6 Braking system
6.7a Knock out the roll pin that secures
the reservoir to the master cylinder
6.7b Carefully pry off the reservoir by
inserting a screwdriver between the
reservoir and each grommet; this takes
firm pressure, so don’t slip and damage
the reservoir or the master cylinder
6.7c Remove the grommets, noting the
position of each one
6.6 Remove the two master cylinder
mounting nuts
3261 Jaguar XJ6 6.4 Trace the electrical lead back from the reservoir cap and
disconnect the low fluid level sensor
6.5 Loosen the hydraulic brake line fittings with a flare-nut
spanner to protect the corners of the nuts

being drawn back into the master cylinder.
Wait several seconds for brake fluid to be
drawn from the reservoir into the piston bore,
then depress the piston again, removing your
finger as brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put
your finger back over the hole each time
before releasing the piston, and when the
bleeding procedure is complete for that outlet,
renew the plug and snug it up before going on
to the other port.
Refitting
16Refit the master cylinder over the studs on
the brake servo and tighten the mounting nuts
only finger tight at this time.
17Thread the brake line fittings into the
master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is
still a bit loose, it can be moved slightly to
allow the fitting threads to start easily. Do not
strip the threads as the fittings are tightened.
18Tighten the brake fittings securely and the
mounting nuts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
19Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid,
then bleed the master cylinder and the brake
system (see Section 9).
20To bleed the master cylinder on the
vehicle, have an assistant pump the brake
pedal several times and then hold the pedal to
the floor. Loosen the fitting nut to allow air and
fluid to escape, then tighten the nut. Repeat
this procedure on both fittings until the fluid is
clear of air bubbles. Test the operation of the
brake system carefully before placing the
vehicle into service.
7 Brake servo-
general information,
removal and refitting
2
General information
1A hydraulic brake servo system assists
braking when the brake pedal is depressed.
The booster unit, located between the brake
pedal box and the master cylinder, is operated
by hydraulic pressure generated by an engine-
driven pump (on early models) or by an electric
pump (on later models). When the engine isrunning, the pump supplies hydraulic pressure
to an accumulator. The accumulator stores and
regulates the pressure to the hydraulic brake
servo. When you depress the brake pedal, the
pressure in the booster helps actuate the
master cylinder, reducing pedal effort.
2The hydraulic brake servo isn’t rebuildable;
if it fails, it must be replaced. Basic operation
can be checked (see Chapter 1, Section 15),
but in-depth testing of the system requires
special tools, so diagnosis is beyond the
scope of the home mechanic. If the system
fails, take it to a dealer service department or
other qualified repair workshop for repairs.
However, if the unit must be replaced, you
can do it yourself as follows.
Removal and refitting
3With the engine off, discharge the hydraulic
accumulator by depressing the brake pedal
several times until it feels hard to depress.
4Remove the master cylinder (see Section 6).
5Clean the area around the return and
supply tube nuts, then disconnect them with a
flare-nut spanner (see illustration). Plug the
lines to prevent dirt from entering the system.
Caution: Even a particle of dirt can damage
the servo system, so be extremely careful
to prevent dirt from entering the system
while the lines are disconnected.
6To disconnect the brake servo pushrod
from the brake pedal, remove the access
plugs from both sides of the pedal box (see
illustration), remove the clevis pin retaining
clip and drive out the clevis pin.
7Remove the four mounting nuts and
remove the brake servo (see illustration).
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the hydraulic line fittings securely.
9When you’re done, adjust the brake light
switch (see Section 13).
8 Brake hoses and lines-
inspection and renewal
4
Inspection
1About every six months, with the vehicleraised and placed securely on axle stands, the
flexible hoses which connect the steel brake
lines with the front and rear brake assemblies
should be inspected for cracks, chafing of the
outer cover, leaks, blisters and other damage.
These are important and vulnerable parts of
the brake system and inspection should be
complete. A light and mirror will prove helpful
for a thorough check. If a hose exhibits any of
the above conditions, renew it with a new one.
Flexible hose renewal
2Clean all dirt away from the ends of the
hose.
3To disconnect the hose at the frame end,
use a second spanner on the hex-shaped
fitting on the end of the flexible hose and
loosen the nut on the metal brake line (see
illustrations). If the nut is stuck, soak it with
penetrating oil. After the hose is disconnected
from the metal line, remove the nut right
above the bracket and detach the hose from
the bracket.
4To detach the flexible hose from the caliper,
simply unscrew it.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Make sure the brackets are in
good condition and the locknuts are tightened
securely.
Braking system 9•9
9
7.5 Use a flare-nut spanner to loosen the
fittings, then pull the lines back from the
brake servo and plug them to prevent
contamination7.6 Pry off the two rubber caps from the
pedal box7.7 To detach the brake servo from the
pedal box, remove these four nuts
(arrowed) (lower right nut not visible
in this photo)
8.3a To remove a front flexible brake hose
from a metal brake line, use one spanner
to hold the hose fitting just below the
bracket (lower spanner), then break loose
the nut on the metal line (upper spanner);
to disconnect the flex hose from the
bracket, remove the centre nut (arrowed)
just above the bracket
3261 Jaguar XJ6

6Carefully check to make sure the
suspension and steering components do not
make contact with the hoses. Have an
assistant push on the vehicle and also turn the
steering wheel from lock-to-lock during
inspection.
7Bleed the brake system (see Section 9).
Metal brake line renewal
8When replacing brake lines, use the proper
parts only. Do not use copper line for any
brake system connections. Purchase steel
brake lines from a dealer or motor factors..
9Unless you’re using factory renewal brake
lines, you may need a tubing bender to bend
the lines to the proper shape.
10First, remove the line you intend to renew,
lay it on a clean workbench and measure it
carefully. Obtain a new line of the same length
and bend it to match the pattern of the old
line.
Warning: Do not crimp or
damage the line. No bend should
have a smaller radius than
9/16-inch. Make sure the
protective coating on the new line is
undamaged at the bends.
11When refitting the new line, make sure it’s
well supported by the brackets, the routing
matches the original and there’s plenty of
clearance between moving or hot
components.
12After refitting, check the master cylinder
fluid level and add fluid as necessary. Bleed
the brake system as outlined in Section 9 and
test the brakes carefully before driving the
vehicle. Be sure there are no leaks.
9 Brake hydraulic system-
bleeding
2
Warning: Wear eye protection
when bleeding the brake
system. If the fluid comes in
contact with your eyes,
immediately rinse them with water and
seek medical attention.Note:Bleeding the hydraulic system is
necessary to remove any air which has entered
the system during removal and refitting of a
hose, line, caliper or master cylinder.
1It will probably be necessary to bleed the
system at all four brakes if air has entered the
system due to low fluid level or if the brake
lines have been disconnected at the master
cylinder.
2If a brake line was disconnected at only one
wheel, then only that caliper or wheel cylinder
must be bled.
3If a brake line is disconnected at a fitting
located between the master cylinder and any
of the brakes, that part of the system served
by the disconnected line must be bled.
4Bleed the right rear, the left rear, the right
front and the left front caliper, in that order,
when the entire system is involved.
5Remove any residual vacuum from the
servo and pressure in the anti-lock braking
system (if equipped) by applying the brake
about 30 times with the engine off.
6Remove the master cylinder reservoir cover
and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Refit the
cover. Note:Check the fluid level often during
the bleeding operation and add fluid as
necessary to prevent the fluid level from falling
low enough to allow air into the master
cylinder.
7Have an assistant on hand, as well as a
supply of new brake fluid, an empty clear
plastic container, a length of 3/16-inch clear
tubing to fit over the bleed screws and a
spanner to open and close the bleed screws.
8Beginning at the right rear wheel, loosen the
bleed screw slightly, then tighten it to a point
where it is snug but can still be loosened
quickly and easily.
9Place one end of the tubing over the bleed
valve and submerge the other end in brake
fluid in the container (see illustration).
10Have the assistant pump the brakes a few
times to build pressure in the system, then
hold the pedal firmly depressed.
11While the pedal is held depressed, open
the bleed screw just enough to allow fluid to
flow from the caliper. Watch for air bubbles toexit the submerged end of the tube. When the
fluid flow slows after a couple of seconds,
close the screw and have your assistant
release the pedal.
12Repeat Steps 10 and 11 until no more air
is seen leaving the tube, then tighten the
bleed screw and proceed to the left rear
wheel, the right front wheel and the left
front wheel, in that order, and perform the
same procedure. Be sure to check the fluid in
the master cylinder reservoir frequently.
13Never reuse old brake fluid. It contains
contaminates and moisture which could
damage the braking system.
14Refill the master cylinder with fluid at the
end of the operation.
15Check the operation of the brakes. The
pedal should feel solid when depressed, with
no sponginess. If necessary, repeat the entire
process.
Warning: Do not drive the car if
in doubt about the effectiveness
of the brake system.
10 Handbrake cable-
adjustment
1
1Slowly apply the handbrake and count the
number of clicks at the lever. It should be fully
applied within three to five clicks. If the lever is
still not fully applied by the fifth click, adjust
the handbrake cable as follows:
2Raise the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands.
3Loosen the locknut (see illustration)and
tighten the cable adjuster until all slack has
been removed. Tighten the locknut. Make
sure the wheels turn freely with the handbrake
lever released
4Lower the vehicle and recheck the
handbrake lever. It should now be properly
adjusted. If it’s now fully applied within three
to five clicks, raise the vehicle again and
readjust the cable at the adjuster.
5Make sure the handbrake holds the vehicle
on an incline.
9•10 Braking system
8.3b The connection (arrowed) for the rear
hose and line is located right above the
mounting bracket for the front corner of
the differential crossmember; remove the
hose as described in the previous
illustration9.9 When bleeding the brakes, a hose is
connected to the bleed screw at the caliper
or wheel cylinder and then submerged in
brake fluid - air will be seen as bubbles in
the tube and container (all air must be
expelled before moving to the next brake)
10.3 To adjust the handbrake cable,
loosen the locknut, then turn the adjuster
to remove any slack in the cable; be sure
to tighten the locknut when the cable is
properly adjusted
3261 Jaguar XJ6

5The shock/coil spring assemblies must be
dismantled, and the coil springs installed on
the new shocks. Although the shock/coil
spring assembly is similar in appearance to
the a MacPherson strut/coil spring assembly,
the spring on this unit is much stiffer.
Therefore, DO NOT attempt to take apart this
unit yourself with a strut spring compressor
tool. Instead, take the unit to a Jaguar dealer
service department or to a Jaguar specialist
workshop and have the springs installed on
the new shocks by professionals.6If you are retrofitting conventional shocks -
rather than refitting the same or another pair
of self-levelling shocks - unplug the electrical
connector at the ride height sensor, and fill
the connector with silicone (see illustration)
to prevent it from shorting out and causing
electrical problems. Then disconnect and
remove all hydraulic lines (see illustrations).
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to tighten all fasteners to the torque values
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8Remove the jack supporting the controlarm, refit the rear wheels and lower the
vehicle.
9Tighten the rear wheel nuts to the torque
listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
10If you retrofitted conventional shocks to a
vehicle formerly equipped with the self-
levelling rear suspension system, disconnect
the forward end of the hydraulic line from the
valve block and refit the plug included in the
kit (see illustrations). Then finish removing
the forward section of hydraulic line and the
brackets for the line (see illustration).
Suspension and steering systems 10•7
10
10.6a Where applicable, unplug the
connector to the ride height sensor and fill
the connector with silicone . . .10.6b . . . then disconnect and remove
both valve blocks . . .10.6c . . . and remove all associated
plumbing, including the metal line (arrow) to
the valve block in the engine compartment
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.3 To detach the bottom of the shock absorber/coil spring from
the control arm, remove this nut and bolt, then pull out the bolt
10.4 To detach the top of the shock absorber/coil spring from the
body, remove these bolts (arrowed) - not all bolts are visible here
10.10a After the vehicle has been lowered,
disconnect the forward end of the
hydraulic line from the valve block . . .10.10b . . . refit the plug included in the
retrofit kit . . .10.10c . . . then remove these bracket
screws (arrowed), the brackets and the
forward section of hydraulic line

17 Steering gear-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: On models with an
airbag, do not apply excessive
force or severe shock to the
steering column shaft, or
accidental deployment of the airbag could
occur.
1Using a large syringe or hand pump, empty
the power steering fluid reservoir.
2Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheels.
3Mark the relationship of the steering shaft
U-joint to the steering gear pinion shaft (see
illustration)to ensure proper alignment when
they’re reassembled. Remove the nut and bolt
that clamp the U-joint to the pinion shaft.
4Disconnect the power steering pressure
and return lines from the steering gear. Place
a container under the lines to catch spilledfluid. Plug the lines to prevent excessive fluid
loss and contamination. Discard the sealing
washers (new ones should be used when
reassembling).
5Disconnect the tie-rod ends from the
steering knuckle arms (see Section 17).
6Remove the nuts and bolts from the steering
gear mounting brackets (see illustration).
7Remove the steering gear assembly,
detaching the U-joint as you lower it. Don’t
damage the steering gear dust boots.
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Ensure the
marks you made on the U-joint and the pinion
shaft are aligned before you tighten the U-joint
clamp bolt and nut. Tighten the mounting bolts,
the tie-rod end nuts and the U-joint shaft
clamping bolts to the specified torque.
9After lowering the vehicle, fill the reservoir
with the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1).
10Bleed the power steering system (see
Section 19).
11Have the front wheels aligned by a dealer
service department or alignment workshop
after reassembly.
18 Power steering pump-
removal and refitting
3
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Remove the engine under-cover.
2Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the
fluid return hose from the top of the pump
(see illustration)and drain the power steering
fluid from the reservoir into a clean container.
Unscrew the pressure line fitting from the
back of the pump. Plug the return hose and
the pressure line to prevent fluid from leaking
and to protect the power steering system
from contamination.
3Remove the bolts (see illustration)that
attach the power steering pump adapter to
the auxiliary shaft housing.
4Remove the power steering pump and
adapter.
5Take the power steering pump and adapter
to a Jaguar dealer service department and
have the adapter removed from the old pump
10•10 Suspension and steering systems
18.2 Disconnect the steering fluid return hose from the upper
pipe (arrowed) and disconnect the pressure line
from the back of the pump18.3 To detach the pump adapter from the auxiliary shaft
housing, remove these bolts
3261 Jaguar XJ6 17.3 Mark the relationship of the steering shaft U-joint to the
steering gear pinion shaft, then unscrew the pressure and return
line fittings (arrowed) - plug the lines to prevent contamination
from entering the system
17.6 To detach the steering gear from the vehicle, remove these
nuts and bolts (arrowed) from the mounting brackets (right
bracket shown, left bracket similar)

and installed on a new or rebuilt pump. (This
procedure requires special tools, and the
height of the driven coupling on the shaft
must be set with a depth gauge.)
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Study
the accompanying photos carefully before
reattaching the adapter to the auxiliary shaft
housing (see illustrations). Be sure to tighten
the fasteners securely.
7Top up the fluid level in the reservoir (see
“Weekly checks” for vehicles with a separate
power steering system, or Chapter 1 for
vehicles with a power hydraulic system) and
bleed the system (Section 19).
19 Power steering system-
bleeding
1
1To bleed the power steering system, begin
by checking the power steering fluid level and
adding fluid if necessary (see “Weekly checks”
or Chapter 1, dependent on system fitted).
2Raise and support the front of the vehicle
on axle stands.
3Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times and recheck the fluid level.
4Start the engine. Turn the steering wheel
from lock-to-lock again (three or four times)
and recheck the fluid level one more time.
5Lower the car to the ground. Run the
engine and again turn the wheels from lock-
to-lock several more times. Set the wheels
straight ahead and recheck the fluid level.
20 Wheels and tyres-
general information
1All vehicles covered by this manual are
equipped with steel belted radial tyres. Use ofother size or type of tyres may affect the ride
and handling of the vehicle. Don’t mix
different types of tyres, such as radials and
bias belted, on the same vehicle as handling
may be seriously affected. It’s recommended
that tyres be replaced in pairs on the same
axle, but if only one tyre is being replaced, be
sure it’s the same size, structure and tread
design as the other.
2Because tyre pressure has a substantial
effect on handling and wear, the pressure on
all tyres should be checked at least once a
month or before any extended trips (see
Chapter 1).
3Wheels must be replaced if they are bent,
dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes,
are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or
if the wheel nuts won’t stay tight. Wheel
repairs that use welding or peening are not
recommended.
4Tyre and wheel balance is important in the
overall handling, braking and performance of
the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely
affect handling and ride characteristics as well
as tyre life. Whenever a tyre is installed on a
wheel, the tyre and wheel should be balanced
by a workshop with the proper equipment.
21 Wheel alignment-
general information
A wheel alignment refers to the adjustments
made to the wheels so they are in proper
angular relationship to the suspension and the
ground. Wheels that are out of proper
alignment not only affect vehicle control, but
also increase tyre wear. The alignment angles
normally measured are camber, caster and
toe-in (see illustration). Front-wheel toe-in and
caster are adjustable; camber is not adjustable.
Suspension and steering systems 10•11
10
3261 Jaguar XJ6 18.6a This driven coupling is the reason
you can’t remove the adapter from the
pump at home; this requires special tools,
and the coupling must be installed on the
shaft of the new or rebuilt pump at a very
precise height - if you try to pry off the
coupling, you will damage it
18.6b The coupling disc fits onto the
driven coupling on the pump side . . .18.6c . . . and on the drive coupling on the
auxiliary shaft side; note that the two lugs on
each drive coupling fit into their
corresponding slots in the coupling disc,
180° apart - all four lugs must be properly
engaged or you won’t be able to bolt the
adapter to the auxiliary shaft housing
21.1 Front end alignment details
A minus B = C (degrees camber)
E minus F = toe-in (measured in inches)
G - toe-in (expressed in degrees)