1997 JAGUAR XJ6 Chapter 12

Refitting
8Place the disc on the hub and refit the disc
retaining screw. Tighten the screw securely.
9Refit the caliper mounting bracket, using a
new safety wire on the mounting bolts.
10Refit the brake pads and caliper (see
Section 3). Tighten all fasteners to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
11Refit the wheel and wheel nuts, then lower
the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the wheel
nuts to the specified torque (see Chapter 1
Specifications). Depress the brake pedal a
few times to bring the brake pads into contact
with the disc.
12Adjust the handbrake shoes, if necessary.
13Check the operation of the brakes
carefully, if possible before driving the vehicle
on public roads.
6 Master cylinder- removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Note:Although master cylinder parts and
rebuild kits are available for most models, we
recommend replacing the master cylinder with
a new or remanufactured unit, if possible.
Removal
1The master cylinder is connected to the
brake servo, which is attached to the pedal
box, in front of the bulkhead on the driver’s
side of the engine compartment.
2Remove as much fluid as you can from the
reservoir with a syringe.
3Place rags under the line fittings and
prepare caps or plastic bags to cover the
ends of the lines once they are disconnected.
Caution: Brake fluid will damage paint.
Cover all body parts and be careful not to
spill fluid during this procedure.
4Disconnect the electrical connector for the
low fluid level warning light (see illustration).
5Loosen the brake line fittings at the mastercylinder (see illustration). Use a flare-nut
spanner to prevent rounding off the nuts. Pull
the brake lines away from the master cylinder
slightly and plug the ends to prevent
contamination.
6Remove the nuts attaching the master
cylinder to the servo (see illustration). Pull
the master cylinder off the studs and lift it out
of the engine compartment. Again, be careful
not to spill fluid as this is done.
Overhaul
7Follow the accompanying photo sequence,
beginning with illustration 6.7a. Stay in order,don’t skip steps, read each caption and study
the photo carefully.
8Once you have dismantled the master
cylinder, clean everything thoroughly, blow
the parts dry with compressed air and
carefully inspect the secondary piston and the
bore of the master cylinder with a bright light.
If the secondary piston or the master cylinder
bore is damaged or worn, renew the master
cylinder with a new or rebuilt unit.
Bench bleeding procedure
9Before refitting a new or rebuilt master
cylinder it should be bench bled. Because it
9•6 Braking system
6.7a Knock out the roll pin that secures
the reservoir to the master cylinder
6.7b Carefully pry off the reservoir by
inserting a screwdriver between the
reservoir and each grommet; this takes
firm pressure, so don’t slip and damage
the reservoir or the master cylinder
6.7c Remove the grommets, noting the
position of each one
6.6 Remove the two master cylinder
mounting nuts
3261 Jaguar XJ6 6.4 Trace the electrical lead back from the reservoir cap and
disconnect the low fluid level sensor
6.5 Loosen the hydraulic brake line fittings with a flare-nut
spanner to protect the corners of the nuts

will be necessary to apply pressure to the
master cylinder piston and, at the same time,
control flow from the brake line outlets, it is
recommended that the master cylinder be
mounted in a vice. Use caution not to clamp
the vice too tightly, or the master cylinder
body might crack.
10Insert threaded plugs into the brake line
outlet holes and snug them down so that
there will be no air leakage past them, but not
so tight that they cannot be easily loosened.
11Fill the reservoir with brake fluid of the
recommended type (see Recommended
lubricants and fluidsin Chapter 1).
12Remove one plug and push the piston
assembly into the master cylinder bore to
expel the air from the master cylinder. A large
Phillips screwdriver can be used to push on
the piston assembly.
13To prevent air from being drawn back into
the master cylinder, the plug must be
replaced and tightened before releasing the
pressure on the piston assembly.
14Repeat the procedure until only brake
fluid is expelled from the brake line outlet
hole. When only brake fluid is expelled, repeat
the procedure with the other outlet hole and
plug. Be sure to keep the master cylinder
reservoir filled with brake fluid to prevent the
introduction of air into the system.
15Since high pressure is not involved in the
bench bleeding procedure, an alternative to
the removal and renewal of the plugs witheach stroke of the piston assembly is
available. Before pushing in on the piston
assembly, remove the plug as described inStep 12. Before releasing the piston, however,
instead of replacing the plug, simply put your
finger tightly over the hole to keep air from
9•8 Braking system
6.7m Apply some clean brake fluid to the
secondary piston and refit it with the slot
oriented with the stopper pin hole, so that
the stopper pin will go through the slot6.7n Apply a coat of clean brake fluid to
the primary piston and refit it into the bore6.7o Using the same technique as in
illustration 6.7f, depress the pistons and
refit the stopper pin
6.7p Refit the end plate as shown, with the
bend in the plate flange aligned with the
groove in the master cylinder flange6.7q Using a hammer and punch, stake
the end plate as shown (there’s a dimple in
the side of the plate for this purpose)6.7r Refit the grommets
3261 Jaguar XJ6
6.7s Align the reservoir pipes with the
grommets as shown . . .
6.7u Refit the reservoir roll pin . . .6.7v . . . and tap it into place
6.7t . . . and squeeze the reservoir and
master cylinder together; make sure the
reservoir is fully seated

being drawn back into the master cylinder.
Wait several seconds for brake fluid to be
drawn from the reservoir into the piston bore,
then depress the piston again, removing your
finger as brake fluid is expelled. Be sure to put
your finger back over the hole each time
before releasing the piston, and when the
bleeding procedure is complete for that outlet,
renew the plug and snug it up before going on
to the other port.
Refitting
16Refit the master cylinder over the studs on
the brake servo and tighten the mounting nuts
only finger tight at this time.
17Thread the brake line fittings into the
master cylinder. Since the master cylinder is
still a bit loose, it can be moved slightly to
allow the fitting threads to start easily. Do not
strip the threads as the fittings are tightened.
18Tighten the brake fittings securely and the
mounting nuts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
19Fill the master cylinder reservoir with fluid,
then bleed the master cylinder and the brake
system (see Section 9).
20To bleed the master cylinder on the
vehicle, have an assistant pump the brake
pedal several times and then hold the pedal to
the floor. Loosen the fitting nut to allow air and
fluid to escape, then tighten the nut. Repeat
this procedure on both fittings until the fluid is
clear of air bubbles. Test the operation of the
brake system carefully before placing the
vehicle into service.
7 Brake servo-
general information,
removal and refitting
2
General information
1A hydraulic brake servo system assists
braking when the brake pedal is depressed.
The booster unit, located between the brake
pedal box and the master cylinder, is operated
by hydraulic pressure generated by an engine-
driven pump (on early models) or by an electric
pump (on later models). When the engine isrunning, the pump supplies hydraulic pressure
to an accumulator. The accumulator stores and
regulates the pressure to the hydraulic brake
servo. When you depress the brake pedal, the
pressure in the booster helps actuate the
master cylinder, reducing pedal effort.
2The hydraulic brake servo isn’t rebuildable;
if it fails, it must be replaced. Basic operation
can be checked (see Chapter 1, Section 15),
but in-depth testing of the system requires
special tools, so diagnosis is beyond the
scope of the home mechanic. If the system
fails, take it to a dealer service department or
other qualified repair workshop for repairs.
However, if the unit must be replaced, you
can do it yourself as follows.
Removal and refitting
3With the engine off, discharge the hydraulic
accumulator by depressing the brake pedal
several times until it feels hard to depress.
4Remove the master cylinder (see Section 6).
5Clean the area around the return and
supply tube nuts, then disconnect them with a
flare-nut spanner (see illustration). Plug the
lines to prevent dirt from entering the system.
Caution: Even a particle of dirt can damage
the servo system, so be extremely careful
to prevent dirt from entering the system
while the lines are disconnected.
6To disconnect the brake servo pushrod
from the brake pedal, remove the access
plugs from both sides of the pedal box (see
illustration), remove the clevis pin retaining
clip and drive out the clevis pin.
7Remove the four mounting nuts and
remove the brake servo (see illustration).
8Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the hydraulic line fittings securely.
9When you’re done, adjust the brake light
switch (see Section 13).
8 Brake hoses and lines-
inspection and renewal
4
Inspection
1About every six months, with the vehicleraised and placed securely on axle stands, the
flexible hoses which connect the steel brake
lines with the front and rear brake assemblies
should be inspected for cracks, chafing of the
outer cover, leaks, blisters and other damage.
These are important and vulnerable parts of
the brake system and inspection should be
complete. A light and mirror will prove helpful
for a thorough check. If a hose exhibits any of
the above conditions, renew it with a new one.
Flexible hose renewal
2Clean all dirt away from the ends of the
hose.
3To disconnect the hose at the frame end,
use a second spanner on the hex-shaped
fitting on the end of the flexible hose and
loosen the nut on the metal brake line (see
illustrations). If the nut is stuck, soak it with
penetrating oil. After the hose is disconnected
from the metal line, remove the nut right
above the bracket and detach the hose from
the bracket.
4To detach the flexible hose from the caliper,
simply unscrew it.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Make sure the brackets are in
good condition and the locknuts are tightened
securely.
Braking system 9•9
9
7.5 Use a flare-nut spanner to loosen the
fittings, then pull the lines back from the
brake servo and plug them to prevent
contamination7.6 Pry off the two rubber caps from the
pedal box7.7 To detach the brake servo from the
pedal box, remove these four nuts
(arrowed) (lower right nut not visible
in this photo)
8.3a To remove a front flexible brake hose
from a metal brake line, use one spanner
to hold the hose fitting just below the
bracket (lower spanner), then break loose
the nut on the metal line (upper spanner);
to disconnect the flex hose from the
bracket, remove the centre nut (arrowed)
just above the bracket
3261 Jaguar XJ6

at a time, so you can use the other side as a
reference during reassembly.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7After refitting the brake disc, adjust the
handbrake shoes. Temporarily refit two nuts,
turn the adjuster (see illustration 5.7c)and
expand the shoes until the disc locks, then
back off the adjuster until you can spin the
disc without the shoes dragging.
8Adjust the handbrake cable (Section 10).
9Remove the axle stands and lower the
vehicle. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified
torque (see Chapter 1 Specifications).
13 Brake light switch-
check and renewal
1
1The brake light switch activates the brake
lights when the brake pedal is depressed. It‘s
located at the top of the brake pedal, inside
the pedal box.
2If the brake lights don’t come on when the
brake pedal is depressed, check the fuses
(the fuse for the left brake light is in the left
fuse panel and the fuse for the right brake
light is in the right panel).
3If the fuses are okay, check the brake light
bulbs (see Chapter 12).
4If the fuses and bulbs are okay, either the
switch isn’t getting voltage (there’s an open-
circuit between the voltage source and the
switch), voltage isn’t reaching the brake light
Braking system 9•13
9
12.5j Place the front shoe in position,
insert the pin through the backing plate
and the shoe . . .12.5k . . . and refit the hold-down spring
and washers12.5i Lubricate the six friction points
(two arrowed) on the backing plate with
high-temperature brake grease
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.5l Hook the lower return spring into its
hole in the front shoe . . .
12.5m . . . hook the other end of the
lower spring into the rear shoe . . .12.5n . . . stretch the spring over the top of
the handbrake lever box . . .
12.5o . . . place the rear shoe in position,
insert the pin through the backing plate
and the shoe and refit the rear washers
and hold-down spring12.5p Hook the upper return spring into
the front shoe . . .
12.5q . . . and into the rear shoe12.5r Pull the shoes apart and refit the
adjuster mechanism

3261 Jaguar XJ6
10
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering systems
General
Power steering fluid type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front suspension
Balljoints
Retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 62 41 to 45
Ball stud nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 to 68 35 to 50
Lower control arm
Spring pan bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 34 19 to 25
Pivot nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 to 68 32 to 50
Shock absorber
Lower nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 to 68 45 to 50
Upper nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 43 26 to 31
Anti-roll bar
Bushing bracket bolts
Upper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 20
Lower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 to 30 18 to 22
Link nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 to 60 41 to 44
Upper control arm pivot nuts/bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 to 75 45 to 55
Rear suspension
Carrier-to-control arm bolt/nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 to 80 51 to 59
Rear control arm-to-crossmember bolt/nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 to 105 62 to 77
Shock absorber/coil spring assembly
Lower shock-to-control arm bolt/nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 to 200 118 to 147
Upper shock-to-body bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 20
Steering
Steering wheel-to-steering shaft nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 45 26 to 33
Steering shaft-to-steering gear pinion shaft U-joint pinch bolt . . . . . . . 19 to 24 14 to 17
Steering gear mounting bracket bolts/nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 to 29 19 to 21
Tie-rod end-to-steering knuckle nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 to 68 45 to 50 Anti-roll bar (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Balljoints - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Coil spring (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Control arm (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Front wheel bearing - check, repack and adjustment . . See Chapter 1
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Hub and bearing (rear) - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Hub carrier (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Lower control arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Power steering fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Power steering pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Power steering system - bleeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Self-levelling rear suspension system - general information . . . . . . . 2
Shock absorber (front) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Shock absorber/coil spring (rear) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . 10
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Steering gear - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Steering gear boots - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Steering knuckle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Steering wheel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Suspension and steering checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tie-rod ends - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Tyre and tyre pressure checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Tyre rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Upper control arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Wheel alignment - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Wheel bearing lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Wheels and tyres - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
10•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

4Remove the anti-roll bar from the vehicle.
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Be sure to tighten all fasteners to
the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
4 Shock absorber (front)-
removal and refitting
2
Note: Always renew both left and right shocks
at the same time to prevent handling
peculiarities and abnormal ride quality.
1Loosen but do not remove the front wheel
nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and
support it on axle stands. Remove the wheels.
2Support the lower control arm with a trolley
jack (see illustration). Place a block of wood
between the jack head and the control arm to
protect the arm and spring plate.
3Remove the nut and bolt that attach the
lower end of the shock absorber to the lower
control arm (see illustration).
4Remove the nut that attaches the upper
end of the shock to the body (see
illustration).
5Remove the shock absorber.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the fasteners to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
5 Balljoints- check and renewal
3
Check
1Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
2Visually inspect the rubber boot between
the balljoints and the steering knuckle for
cuts, tears or leaking grease. If you note any
of these conditions, renew the balljoint.
3Place a large crowbar between eachcontrol arm and the steering knuckle. If you
can see or feel any movement during either
check, a worn-out balljoint is indicated.
4Have an assistant grasp the tyre at the top
and bottom and shake the top of the tyre with
an in-and-out motion. Touch the balljoint stud
nut. If any looseness is felt, suspect a worn-
out balljoint stud or a widened hole in the
steering knuckle. If the latter problem exists,
the steering knuckle should be replaced as
well as the balljoint.
Renewal
5Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
6Support the lower control arm with a trolley
jack (see illustration 4.2). Place a block of
wood between the jack head and the control
arm as shown to protect the arm and spring
plate.
Upper balljoint
7Loosen - but don’t remove - the ball stud
nut, fit a small puller (see illustration)and
pop the ball stud loose from the steering
knuckle.
8Remove the two bolts that attach the
balljoint to the upper arm (see illustration).
Count the number of shims installed and set
them aside.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Don’t
forget to refit the same number of shims.
Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
10Remove the jack from under the control
arm, refit the front wheel, lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts to the torque listed
in the Chapter 1 Specifications. Drive the
vehicle to an alignment workshop to have the
wheel alignment checked, and if necessary,
adjusted.
Lower balljoint
11Loosen - but don’t remove - the ball stud
nut, then give the steering knuckle a few
sharp raps with a hammer to pop the ball stud
loose (see illustration). Remove the ball stud
nut.
10•4 Suspension and steering systems
3.3 To disconnect the anti-roll bar from the
link, remove the upper nut (arrowed); to
disconnect the link from the lower control
arm, remove the lower nut (arrowed)4.2 Support the lower control arm with a
jack; put a block of wood between the jack
head and the control arm to protect the
arm and coil spring plate
4.3 To disconnect the lower end of the
shock absorber from the lower control
arm, remove this nut and bolt4.4 To disconnect the upper end of the
shock absorber from the body, remove this
nut (arrowed)
5.7 To detach the upper balljoint from the
steering knuckle, loosen the ballstud nut,
fit a small puller and break the ballstud
loose from the knuckle5.8 Remove the bolts and shims from the
upper balljoint; be sure to put the shims
back when refitting the new balljoint
3261 Jaguar XJ6

12Remove the four balljoint retaining bolts
(see illustration).
13If the dust boot is damaged, pry it out
(see illustration).
14Remove the balljoint.
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the balljoint bolts and the ball stud nut to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
16Remove the jack from under the control
arm, refit the front wheel. Lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel nuts to the torque listed
in the Chapter 1 Specifications.
6 Steering knuckle-
removal and refitting
3
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the
vehicle and place it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the front brake caliper and
mounting bracket (see Chapter 9). Do not
disconnect the brake hose. Hang the caliper
out of the way with a piece of wire.
3Remove the brake disc (see Chapter 9).
4Remove the ABS sensor (see illustration).
5Remove the brake shield (see illustration).
6Disconnect the tie-rod end from the
steering knuckle (see Section 15).
7Disconnect the upper and lower balljoints
from the steering knuckle (see Section 5).
8Remove the steering knuckle.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the balljoint nuts and the tie-rod end nuts to the
specified torque. Tighten the brake fasteners to
the torque values listed in the Chapter 9
Specifications.
7 Upper control arm-
removal and refitting
3
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Support the lower control arm with a trolley
jack (see illustration 4.2).
3Disconnect the upper balljoint from the
steering knuckle (see Section 5).4If you’re removing the right upper control
arm on a vehicle equipped with the power
hydraulic system, remove the three Torx
screws which attach the accumulator (see
illustration)and push the assembly aside just
far enough to clear the pivot bolt.
5Remove the upper control arm pivot bolt
and nut (see illustration). When removing the
nut, note the number of washers used and the
order in which they’re installed. Put these
parts in a plastic bag.
6Remove the upper control arm. Inspect the
bushings at either end of the arm and renew
them if they’re damaged or worn.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to refit the washers in the same order in which
they were removed. Raise the suspensionwith the trolley jack to simulate normal ride
height, then tighten the upper control arm
pivot bolt and nut to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications.
8 Coil spring (front)-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: The coil springs cannot
be removed without a special
spring compressor tool (Jaguar
tool JD115). Do not try to remove
a coil spring without this special tool. If you
do, you could be seriously injured.
1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
Suspension and steering systems 10•5
10
5.11 Strike the steering knuckle in this
area to pop the lower ball stud loose from
the steering knuckle5.12 To detach the lower balljoint from the
lower control arm, remove these four bolts
(arrowed)5.13 To detach the dust boot from the
steering knuckle, pry the lower lip of the
boot out of its groove in the knuckle
6.5 To detach the brake shield from the
steering knuckle, remove these three
screws (arrowed)6.4 To detach the ABS sensor from the
steering knuckle, remove this bolt
7.4 Remove these three Torx screws
(arrowed) and move the accumulator
assembly to the side a little to provide
clearance for pulling out the pivot bolt7.5 To detach the upper control arm from
the crossmember, remove the nut (at the
rear) and pull the bolt out from the front;
note the fitted order of the spacer washers
3261 Jaguar XJ6

and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Refit the special spring compressor tool
(JD115) as shown (see illustrations).
3Tighten the tool until the spacer is tight
against the spring pan, then remove the
spring pan bolts (see illustration).
4Slowly back off the wingnut on the special
tool until all tension is relieved from the spring.
Remove the tool, remove the pan, and remove
the coil spring.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal. Place the
coil spring in position with the spring pan
below it, refit the special tool and carefully
tighten the wingnut until the spring is
compressed enough to allow the pan to be
positioned and bolted to the lower control
arm. Be sure to tighten the pan bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
9 Lower control arm-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: The lower control arms
cannot be removed without a
special spring compressor tool
(Jaguar tool JD115). Do not try to
remove a lower control arm without this
tool, or you could be seriously injured.1Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the vehicle
and support it securely on axle stands.
Remove the wheel.
2Remove the spring pan and the coil spring
(see Section 8).
3Detach the steering gear (see Section 17)
and lower it far enough to provide clearance
for the lower control arm pivot bolt.
4Remove the pivot bolt and nut (see
illustration). Note any washers behind the nut
and store them in a plastic bag.
5Remove the lower control arm.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal. Be sure
to refit any washers removed. Raise the
suspension with the trolley jack to simulate
normal ride height, then tighten the pivot bolt
and nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. Refer to Section 8 for coil
spring refitting.
10 Shock absorber/coil spring
(rear)- removal and refitting
3
Note 1: Always renew both left and right
shocks at the same time to prevent handling
peculiarities and abnormal ride quality.
Note 2:If you’re replacing the shock absorbers
on an earlier vehicle with the self-levelling
system, we strongly recommend (and so doesJaguar) that you renew the self-levelling units
with conventional units (available at the dealer
as a retrofit kit for older vehicles equipped with
the self-levelling system).
1Loosen the rear wheel nuts. Raise the rear
of the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands. Remove the rear wheels. Support the
control arm with a trolley jack. Place a block of
wood on the jack head to serve as a cushion.
2If you are removing/replacing the shocks on
a vehicle equipped with the self-levelling rear
suspension system, depressurise the system
by pumping the brake pedal until it feels hard
to push (this dissipates the pressure inside the
accumulator), then locate the hydraulic line
valve block just in front of the upper end of the
left rear shock (see illustration). Attach a
plastic hose to the bleeder screw (see
illustration), put the other end of the hose in a
catch bottle, crack the bleeder and drain off
as much fluid as possible. Disconnect the
hydraulic line that connects the left shock to
the valve block. Now locate the other valve
block just in front of the right rear shock;
disconnect the hydraulic line that connects
the right shock to this valve block too.
3Remove the lower shock absorber-to-
control arm nut and bolt (see illustration).
4Remove the upper mounting bolts (see
illustration)and remove the shock
absorber/coil spring assembly.
10•6 Suspension and steering systems
9.4 To detach the lower control arm from
the crossmember, remove this nut and bolt
(arrowed) (unbolt and lower the steering
gear before you can pull out the pivot bolt)10.2a On a vehicle equipped with self-
levelling rear suspension, the valve block
(arrowed) for the left rear shock is located
just in front of the shock absorber10.2b After depressurising the system,
attach a bleed hose to the bleed screw on
the left valve block, open the bleed and
drain any residual fluid into a catch bottle
3261 Jaguar XJ6 8.2a When refitting the spring compressor
tool (JD115), insert the upper end of the
rod into the cross-shaped slot in the
suspension crossmember, then rotate the
rod 90° so this pin on the upper end of the
tool locks into the crossmember
8.2b This is how the spring compressor
tool (JD115) looks when it’s installed; note
how the offset collet is oriented so that it’s
flush with the coil spring pan8.3 To detach the coil spring pan from the
lower control arm, compress the spring
and remove these six bolts (arrowed)