30MANIFOLD AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
2
REPAIR Refit
11.Fit new gasket over manifold studs.
12.Loosely fit induction manifold lower nuts to
studs.
13.Fit exhaust manifold and secure with central
upper and lower nuts.
14.Locate heater rail to its correct position and
secure with outer exhaust manifold nuts.
15.Tighten all exhaust manifold nuts to
45 Nm (33
lbf/ft).
16.Tighten exhaust front pipe to intermediate
silencer nuts to
50 Nm (37 lbf/ft).
17.Fit turbocharger outlet pipe.
18.Fit induction manifold
See Induction manifold
.EXHAUST MANIFOLD/TURBOCHARGER
ASSEMBLY
Service repair no - 30.15.10
Remove
1.Remove induction manifold
See Induction
manifold
.
2.Disconnect turbocharger inlet hose.
3.Disconnect boost pressure pipe at turbocharger.
4.Remove intercooler bottom hose.
5.Place suitable container under engine and
disconnect turbocharger oil feed and return
pipes at cylinder block.
6.Remove 3 nuts securing exhaust front pipe to
manifold flange.
7.Remove 7 nuts and lift exhaust manifold and
turbocharger assembly from cylinder head.
8.Discard manifold gasket.
Refit
9.Fit new manifold gasket.
10.Position exhaust manifold assembly onto
location studs and secure to cylinder head.
Tighten nuts to
45 Nm (33 lbf/ft).
11.Secure exhaust front pipe to manifold flange.
Tighten fixings to
50 Nm (37 lbf/ft).
12.Reconnect turbocharger oil feed and return
pipes at cylinder block.
13.Fit intercooler bottom hose.
14.Fit boost pressure pipe at turbocharger.
15.Fit turbocharger inlet hose.
16.Fit induction manifold
See Induction manifold
.
CLUTCH
1
FAULT DIAGNOSIS CLUTCH ASSEMBLY CONDITIONS
For the clutch to operate correctly it is important the
following conditions are satisfied:-
·The primary shaft (15) must be free in the
crankshaft spigot bush (17).
·The friction plate (2) must be able to slide easily on
the splines on the primary shaft (15), to a position
where it does not contact either the flywheel or the
pressure plate.
·The friction plate must not be distorted or the
linings contaminated with oil, which may cause it to
stick or continue to run in contact with the flywheel
or pressure plate.
A number of faults can develop in the operation of the
clutch for a variety of reasons and most faults are due
to normal wear at high mileage. Problems can also
occur if the unit has been renewed by an unskilled
operator.
Recognising and diagnosing a particular clutch fault is
therefore of paramount importance in ensuring that
the problem is rectified at the first attempt.
Problems which develop in the clutch are as follows:-
·Clutch spin/drag
·Clutch slip
·Clutch judder/fierceCLUTCH SPIN - DRAG
Symptoms
Clutch spin is that, with engine running and clutch
pedal depressed, the gears cannot be immediately
engaged without making a grinding noise. This
indicates the clutch is not making a clean break.
However, if the clutch pedal is held depressed for
several seconds the friction plate will eventually break
free from the engine and the gear will engage silently.
Clutch spin as it becomes more severe develops into
clutch drag, making the silent engagement of a gear
impossible, regardless of how long the pedal is held
depressed.
CLUTCH SLIP
Symptoms
Clutch slip is most evident climbing a hill or when the
vehicle is moving off from stationary with a heavy
load. As the clutch is released, slip occurs between
the engine and the transmission, allowing the engine
speed to increase without a corresponding increase in
vehicle speed.
Clutch slip can develop to the stage where no power
is transmitted through the clutch as the pedal is
released.
CLUTCH JUDDER - FIERCE
Symptoms
Clutch judder or fierce engagement, like slip, is most
likely to occur when the vehicle is moving off from
stationary. As the clutch pedal is released the vehicle
will move rapidly or in a series of jerks, which cannot
be controlled even by careful operation of the clutch
by the driver.
It should be noted that a vehicle may display all the
symptoms or any combination of the symptoms
described, depending on the driving conditions vehicle
load and operating temperatures.
33CLUTCH
2
FAULT DIAGNOSIS FAULT/SYMPTOM CHART
Symptoms
Slip Spin/Drag Judder/Fierce Fault Item
* * * Worn or oil on clutch linings 2
* * * Mechanical damage45678
* * Distorted clutch plate 2
* Failed or air in hydraulic system 12 13
* * Primary shaft tight fit in crankshaft bush 15 17
* Clutch splines sticking 2 15
* Weak clutch plate springs or insecure/worn
engine/gearbox mountings6
* Insecure/worn propeller shafts
* Insecure/worn suspension components/rubber
bushes
The items refered to in this chart relate to the clutch components shown in J6270 and J6271.See Description
and operation, Description
CLUTCH NOISE - MECHANICAL FAULTS
Noise from clutch or gearbox in neutral, which
disappears when clutch is depressed.
Suspect gearbox input/primary shaft bearings
See MANUAL GEARBOX, Fault diagnosis,
R380 gearbox
.
Noise from clutch or gearbox in neutral, which
changes tone or becomes worse when the clutch
is depressed.
Suspect worn release bearing.
Knocking/rattling from clutch or gearbox in
neutral, which is reduced or disappears when the
clutch is depressed.
Suspect worn/weak release lever retainer or
clutch unit.
Noise from clutch or gearbox in neutral, which
disappears when clutch is depressed.
Suspect gearbox fault
See MANUAL
GEARBOX, Fault diagnosis, R380 gearbox
.HYDRAULIC FAULTS
Unable to dis-engage clutch, little or no pedal
resistance.
1.Check condition, specification and level of fluid.
2.Check pipes and cylinders for leaks.
3.Check that air vent in reservoir lid is clear.
Suspect faulty master cylinder if no fluid leaks
present
See Repair, Master cylinder.
Spongy pedal operation
1.Check condition, specification and level of fluid.
2.Check that air vent in reservoir lid is clear.
Suspect air in fluid
See Repair, Bleed
hydraulic system
.
Clutch is difficult to dis-engage and/or does not
immediately re-engage when pedal is released.
1.Check condition, specification and level of fluid.
2.Check that air vent in reservoir lid is clear.
Suspect pedal pivot, master cylinder or slave
cylinder seizure
See Repair, Master cylinder.
33CLUTCH
2
OVERHAUL
18.Place coil spring over valve stem.
19.Insert retainer into spring.
20.Compress spring and engage valve stem in
keyhole slot in retainer.
21.Fit seal, large diameter last, to piston.
22.Insert piston into spring retainer and engage
locking prong.
23.Smear piston with suitable rubber grease and
insert assembly, valve end first, into cylinder.
24.Fit push-rod, retaining washer and circlip.
25.Fit clutch master cylinder to vehicle
See Repair,
Master cylinder
.SLAVE CYLINDER - OVERHAUL
Service repair no - 33.35.07
Dismantle
1.Remove slave cylinder
See Repair, Slave
cylinder
.
2.Withdraw dust cover.
3.Expel piston assembly, applying low pressure air
to fluid inlet.
4.Withdraw spring.
5.Remove seal from piston.
6.Remove bleed valve.
Inspection
7.Clean all components with new hydraulic fluid
fluid and allow to dry.
8.Examine cylinder bore and piston, ensure that
they are smooth to touch with no corrosion,
score marks or ridges. If there is any doubt, fit
new components.
9.Renew seal and dust cover from slave cylinder
overhaul kit.
MANUAL GEARBOX
1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION R380 GEARBOX
Description
The all synchromesh five speed manual gearbox unit,
is married to a two speed transfer gearbox.
All the gears, including reverse, run on needle roller
bearings and the main, layshaft and primary shafts
are supported by tapered roller bearings.The whole of the geartrain is lubricated through
drillings in the shafts, supplied by a low pressure
pump driven from the rear of the layshaft. The gear
change has a single rail selector and spool type
interlock. The main and transfer gearboxes ventilate
through nylon pipes, which terminate high up in the
engine compartment to prevent water entry when the
vehicle is operating in adverse conditions.
R380 Gearbox Components
1.Mainshaft 1st gear
2.Mainshaft 2nd gear
3.Mainshaft 3rd gear
4.Primary input shaft/4th gear
5.Mainshaft 5th gear
6.Layshaft
7.Mainshaft
8.Lubrication pump
9.Oil filter10.Ventilation pipe
11.Single rail gear shift
12.1st/2nd synchromesh
13.Oil seals
14.3rd/4th synchromesh
15.5th/reverse gear synchromesh
16.Selective spacers (mainshaft/layshaft end float)
17.Selective spacer (5th gear/reverse hub)
TRANSFER GEARBOX
1
FAULT DIAGNOSIS TRANSFER GEARBOX - OIL SEAL LOCATIONS
1.Input seal.
2.Cover plate joints.
3.Front output seal.
4.Front and rear housing joint faces.5.Rear output seal.
6.Power take off cover plate joint.
7.Bearing plate joint.
41TRANSFER GEARBOX
2
FAULT DIAGNOSIS OIL LEAKS
Verify that oil leak is from transfer box and not main
gearbox before proceeding with checks.
Prior to road test
1.Check oil level in transfer box is correct.
2.Check tightness of level and drain plugs.
3.Check breather system for blockage. To validate
system pipe must be removed, inspected,
rectified as necessary and refitted.
4.Remove all traces of oil from exterior of transfer
box.
Take vehicle for short road test.
5.Identify source of leaks and rectify as follows.
Front or rear output seal leaking:-
1.Drain oil and remove leaking output flange.
2.Inspect seal track on flange for surface damage.
If damaged renew component.
3.Remove and discard oil seal.
4.Inspect seal locating bore and remove any sharp
edges which may damage new oil seal.
5.Fit new seal.
6.Fit output flange and all other parts.
7.Add oil to correct level into gearbox
See
SECTION 10, Maintenance, Under vehicle
maintenance
.
Cover plate sealant leaking.
1.Drain oil and remove leaking cover plate.
2.Remove all traces of joint sealant from both joint
faces.
3.Degrease all components and apply a thin film of
Hylomar sealant, to both joint faces.
4.Apply thread sealant to bolts which come into
contact with gearbox oil.
5.Refit cover plate.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to
overtighten fixings.Leak between main and transfer gearboxes.
1.Site vehicle onto a ramp .
2.Select neutral in transfer box and select 4th gear
in main gearbox.
3.Run engine at 2000 rpm with clutch/drive
engaged.
4.Observe joint between main and transfer boxes.
5.If oil leak is found establish if it is gear oil.
6.If so, leak is originating from transfer box.
7.Check two inner (main/transfer) bolts are oil
tight, as these holes are tapped into main
transfer case.
8.Remove transfer box to inspect mainshaft collar
seal track condition, and front face of transfer
case for porosity
See Repair, Transfer
gearbox
.
9.If these areas require servicing, transfer gearbox
input seal must also be renewed.
CAUTION: Avoid damaging new seal lip
and ensure seal is fitted flush with
machined face. Also ensure new seal is
not damaged when refitting transfer gearbox.
10.If red ATF type oil is seen leaking during
workshop test, investigate main gearbox for
cause of leak.
Detent plug or electrical switch leaks.
1.Detent plugs and electrical switches do not
usually leak. It must be noted that they fit into
open tapped holes in transfer case and therefore
should be considered when looking for source of
leak.
41TRANSFER GEARBOX
2
REPAIR
11.Remove 3 trim studs and lift up handbrake
gaiter.
12.Remove split pin, clevis pin, washer and
disconnect cable from handbrake lever. Ensure
handbrake is off.
13.Release handbrake outer cable from heelboard.
14.Remove fan cowl
See COOLING SYSTEM,
Repair, Fan cowl
.
15.Raise vehicle on ramp.
16.Drain transfer box oil
See SECTION 10,
Maintenance, Under vehicle maintenance
.
17.Remove intermediate silencer.
See MANIFOLD
AND EXHAUST SYSTEM, Repair,
Intermediate pipe - 90
orSee MANIFOLD
AND EXHAUST SYSTEM, Repair,
Intermediate pipe - 110/130
.
18.Mark rear propeller shaft drive flange and
transmission brake drum for reassembly.
19.Remove 4 nuts, disconnect propeller shaft from
brake drum, and tie aside.
20.Mark front propeller shaft drive flange and
transfer box output flange for reassembly.
21.Remove 4 nuts, disconnect propeller shaft from
transfer box, and tie aside.
22.Remove retaining clip at lower end of pivot arm
and disconnect differential lock control operating
rod.