1996 CHRYSLER VOYAGER checking oil

STEERING KNUCKLE
The front suspension knuckle is not a repairable
component of the vehicles front suspensionIT MUST
BE REPLACED.If bent, broken or damaged in any
way, do not attempt to straighten or repair the steer-
ing knuckle.
Service replacement of the front hub/bearing
assembly can be done with the front steering knuckle
remaining on the vehicle.
LOWER CONTROL ARM
If damaged, the lower control arm casting is ser-
viced only as a complete component. Inspect lower
control arm for signs of damage from contact with
the ground or road debris. If lower control arm shows
any sign of damage, inspect lower control arm for
distortion.Do not attempt to repair or straighten
a broken or bent lower control arm.
The serviceable components of the lower control
arm are: the ball joint assembly, ball joint assembly
grease seal and control arm bushings. Inspect both
control arm bushings for severe deterioration, and
replace if required. Inspect ball joint per inspection
procedure in this section of the service manual and
replace if required. Service procedures to replace
these components are detailed in the specific compo-
nent removal and installation sections in this group
of the service manual.
BALL JOINT (LOWER)
With the weight of the vehicle resting on the road
wheels, grasp the grease fitting as shown in (Fig. 5)
and with no mechanical assistance or added force
attempt to rotate the grease fitting.
If the ball joint is worn the grease fitting will
rotate easily. If movement is noted, replacement of
the ball joint is recommended.
STABILIZER BAR
Inspect for broken or distorted sway bar bushings,
bushing retainers, and worn or damaged sway bar to
strut attaching links. If sway bar to front suspension
cradle bushing replacement is required, bushing can
be removed from sway bar by opening slit and peel-
ing bushing off sway bar.
HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
The condition of the front hub and bearing assem-
bly is diagnosed using the inspection and testing pro-
cedure detailed below.
The bearing contained in the Unit III front hub/
bearing assembly will produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise will generally
change when the bearings are loaded. A road test of
the vehicle is normally required to determine the
location of a worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is
usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 m.p.h..
SERVICE PROCEDURES
SUSPENSION CRADLE THREAD REPAIR
PROCEDURE
WARNING: When performing this procedure use
only the thread inserts which are specified in the
Mopar Parts Catalog for this repair procedure.
These thread inserts have been specifically devel-
oped for this application and use of other types of
thread inserts can result in an inferior long term
repair.
The threaded holes in the front suspension cradle,
if damaged, can repaired by installing a Heli-Coilt
thread insert.
The threaded holes that are repairable using the
thread insert, are the lower control arm rear bushing
retainer mounting bolt holes, routing bracket attach-
ing locations for the power steering hoses, and brake
hose attachment holes.
This repair procedure now allows the threaded
holes in the suspension crossmember to be repaired,
eliminating the need to replace the crossmember if
damage occurs to one of the threaded holes.
The thread inserts for this application are specified
by part number in the Mopar Parts Catalog.Do not
use a substitute thread insert.
The specific tools and equipment required to install
the thread insert are listed below. Refer to the
Fig. 5 Checking Ball Joint Wear
2 - 12 SUSPENSIONNS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM (CRS)
This system works with the radiator pressure cap
to use thermal expansion and contraction of the cool-
ant to keep the coolant free of trapped air. Provides a
convenient and safe method for checking coolant
level and adjusting level at atmospheric pressure
without removing the radiator pressure cap. It also
provides some reserve coolant to cover deaeration
and evaporation or boiling losses. All vehicles are
equipped with this system and take various shapes
and forms. (Fig. 3) shows a typical system in the typ-
ical location.
See Coolant Level Service, and Deaeration, and
Pressure Cap sections for operation and service.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLERÐ2.4L
Oil cooler is internal oil to coolant type, mounted
in the radiator left tank (Fig. 4). Rubber oil lines feed
the oil cooler and the automatic transmission. Use
only approved transmission oil cooler hose. Since
these are molded to fit space available, molded hoses
are recommended.
ENGINE THERMOSTAT
The engine cooling thermostats are a wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. They are designed
to provide the fastest warm up possible by prevent-
ing leakage through them and to guarantee a mini-
mum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93ÉC
(192 to 199ÉF). They also automatically reach wide
open so they do not restrict flow to the radiator as
temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to
around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this temperature the
coolant temperature is controlled by the fan, the
radiator, and the ambient temperature, not the ther-
mostat.
WATER PUMPS
A quick test to tell whether the pump is working is
to see if the heater warms properly. A defective pump
can not circulate heated coolant through the long
heater hose.The water pump on all models can
be replaced without discharging the air condi-
tioning system.
COOLANT
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in
the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves. Cool-
ant then carries this heat to the radiator, where the
tube/fin assemblies of these components can give it
up to the air.
The use of aluminum cylinder heads, intake mani-
folds, and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. MopartAntifreeze or the equivalent is
recommended for best engine cooling without corro-
sion, when mixed only to a freeze point of -37ÉC
(-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it loses color or becomes
contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh
properly mixed solution.
CAUTION: Do not use well water, or suspect water
supply in cooling system. A 50/50 ethylene glycol
and distilled water mix is recommended.
RADIATOR
The radiators are cross-flow types (horizontal
tubes) with design features that provide greater
strength along with sufficient heat transfer capabili-
Fig. 3 Coolant Recovery System
Fig. 4 Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler
NSCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 3
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)

WARNING: WITH TOOL IN PLACE, PRESSURE
WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCESSIVE PRESSURE
BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION,
MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE
POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138
kPa (20 psi).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race
the engine a few times. If an abnormal amount of
coolant or steam emits from the tail pipe, it may
indicate a coolant leak caused by a faulty head gas-
ket, cracked engine block, or cracked cylinder head.
There may be internal leaks that can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dipstick. If water globules
appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate an
internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal
leak, the engine must be disassembled for repair.
RADIATOR CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL PRESSURE
RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 13). Attach the
Radiator Pressure Tool to the filler neck nipple and
pump air into the radiator. Pressure cap upper gas-
ket should relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold
pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS ªDO NOT
OPEN HOTº ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS
A SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM
IS HOT OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust coolant freeze point. By add-
ing or subtracting coolant through CRS bottle.
(2) Refill system with new coolant.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
CAP. THEN PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP
AND WITHOUT PUSHING DOWN ROTATE COUN-
TERCLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLU-
IDS TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE
AND WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOL-
ANT AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRES-
SURE DROPS PUSH DOWN AND REMOVE THE CAP
COMPLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR INLET
HOSE WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK PRES-
SURE) BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO THE
FIRST STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAP
Dip the pressure cap in water, clean any deposits
off the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of
Radiator Pressure Tool. Working the plunger, bring
the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the
pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa
(14 psi) replace cap. SeeCAUTION.
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned
on Radiator Pressure Tool (Fig. 14), but will not hold
pressure or vacuum when positioned on the radiator.
Inspect the radiator filler neck and cap top gasket for
irregularities that may prevent the cap from sealing
properly.
CAUTION: Radiator Pressure Tool is very sensitive
to small air leaks that will not cause cooling system
problems. A pressure cap that does not have a his-
tory of coolant loss should not be replaced just
because it leaks slowly when tested with this tool.
Add water to the tool. Turn tool upside down and
recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap is bad.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will
equalize in both tanks with engine off. With engine
Fig. 13 Radiator Pressure Cap Filler Neck
Fig. 14 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap
NSCOOLING SYSTEM 7 - 15
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

All engines use resistor spark plugs. They have
resistance values ranging from 6,000 to 20,000 ohms
when checked with at least a 1000 volt spark plug
tester.
Do not use an ohm meter to check the resis-
tance of the spark plugs. This will give an inac-
curate reading.
Remove the spark plugs and examine them for
burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken por-
celain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order
in which they were removed from the engine. An iso-
lated plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates
that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
Group O - Lubrication and Maintenance.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned
and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil
fouled. Refer to the Spark Plug Condition section of
this group.
The spark plugs are double platinum and have a
recommended service life of 100,000 miles for normal
driving conditions per schedule A in this manual. The
spark plugs have a recommended service life of
75,000 miles for serve driving conditions per schedule
B in this manual. A thin platinum pad is welded to
both electrode ends as show in (Fig. 3). Extreme care
must be used to prevent spark plug cross threading,
mis-gaping and ceramic insulator damage during
plug removal and installation.
CAUTION: Never attempt to file the electrodes or
use a wire brush for cleaning platinum plugs. This
would damage the platinum pads which would
shorten spark plug life.
Apply a very small amount of anti-seize compound
to the threads when reinstalling the vehicle's original
spark plugs that have been determined good.Do not
apply anti-seize compound to new spark plugs.
NOTE: Anti-seize compound is electrically conduc-
tive and can cause engine misfires if not applied
correctly. It is extremely important that the anti-
seize compound doesn't make contact with the
spark plug electrodes or ceramic insulator.
Never force a gap gauge between the platinum
electrodes or adjust the gap on platinum spark plugs
without reading the 3.3/3.8L Spark Plug Gap Mea-
surement procedures in this section.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a
change in the spark plug gap. Overtightening can
also damage the cylinder head. Tighten spark plugs
to 28 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
Due to the engine packaging environment for the
3.3/3.8L engines, extreme care should be used wheninstalling the spark plugs to avoid cross threading
problems.
3.3/3.8L SPARK PLUG GAP MEASUREMENT
CAUTION: The Platinum pads can be damaged dur-
ing the measurement of checking the gap if extreme
care is not used.
²USE ONLY A TAPER GAP GAUGE (Fig. 2)
²Never force the gap gauge through the platinum
pads. Only apply enough force until resistance is felt.
²Never use a wire brush or spark plug cleaner
machine to clean platinum spark plugs
²Use an OSHA approved air nozzle when drying
gas fouled spark plugs.
If gap adjustment is required of platinum plug,
bend only the ground electrode. DO NOT TOUCH
the platinum pads. Use only a proper gapping tool
and check with a taper gap gauge.
CAUTION: Cleaning of the platinum plug may dam-
age the platinum tip.
SPARK PLUG CABLE
Spark Plug cables are sometimes referred to as
secondary ignition wires. The wires transfer electri-
cal current from the ignition coil pack, distributor
(3.0L), to individual spark plugs at each cylinder. The
resistive spark plug cables are of nonmetallic con-
struction. The cables provide suppression of radio fre-
quency emissions from the ignition system.
Check the spark plug cable connections for good
contact at the coil, distributor cap towers (3.0L), and
spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated. The
insulators should be in good condition and should fit
tightly on the coil, distributor (3.0L) and spark plugs.
Spark plug cables with insulators that are cracked or
torn must be replaced.
Fig. 3 Platinum Pads
NSIGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 3
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)

NOTE: Over or under tightening effects knock sen-
sor performance, possibly causing improper spark
control.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COILÐ2.4/3.3/3.8L
ENGINES
WARNING: THE DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEMS GEN-
ERATES APPROXIMATELY 40,000 VOLTS. PER-
SONAL INJURY COULD RESULT FROM CONTACT
WITH THIS SYSTEM.
The coil pack contains independent coils. Each coil
must be checked individually.
CAUTION: Spark plug wire damage may occur if
the spark plug is moved more than 1/4 inch away
from the engine ground.
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable
disconnected any longer than 30 seconds or possi-
ble heat damage to catalytic converter will occur.
CAUTION: Test must be performed at idle and in
park only with the parking brake on.
Use a new spark plug and spark plug cable
for the following test.
(1) Insert a new spark plug into the new spark
plug boot. Ground the plug to the engine (Fig. 15).
Do not hold with your hand.
(2) Starting with coil insulator #1, remove it from
the DIS coil.(3) Plug the test spark plug cable onto #1 coil
tower. Make sure a good connection is made; there
should be a click sound.
(4) Crank the engine and look for spark across the
electrodes of the spark plug.
CAUTION: Always install the cable back on the coil
tower after testing to avoid damage to the coil and
catalytic converter.
(5) Repeat the above test for the remaining coils. If
there is no spark during all cylinder tests, proceed to
the Failure To Start Test.
(6) If one or more tests indicate irregular, weak, or
no spark, proceed to Check Coil Test.
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COILÐ3.0L
WARNING: APPLY PARKING BRAKE AND/OR
BLOCK THE WHEELS BEFORE PERFORMING ANY
TEST WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING.
CAUTION: Spark plug cables may be damaged if
this test is performed with more than 1/4 inch clear-
ance between the cable and engine ground.
Remove the coil secondary cable from the distribu-
tor cap. Hold the end of cable about 6 mm (1/4-inch)
away from a good engine ground using non-conduc-
tive ignition pliers (Fig. 16). Crank the engine and
inspect for spark at the coil secondary cable.
There must be a constant spark at the coil second-
ary cable. If spark is not constant or there is no
spark, proceed to the failure to start test. If the
spark is constant, continue to crank engine and,
while slowly moving coil secondary cable away from
ground, look for arcing at the coil tower. If arcing
occurs at the tower, replace the coil.
If a constant spark is present and no arcing occurs
at the coil tower, the ignition system is producing the
necessary high secondary voltage. However, make
Fig. 15 Testing For Spark
Fig. 16 Checking for Spark
8D - 8 IGNITION SYSTEMNS
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)

sure that the spark plugs are firing. Inspect the dis-
tributor rotor, cap, spark plug cables, and spark
plugs. If they are in proper working order, the igni-
tion system is not the reason why the engine will not
start. Inspect the fuel system and engine for proper
operation.
CHECK COIL TESTÐ2.4L
Coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires
cylinders 2 and 3. Each coil tower is labeled
with the number of the corresponding cylinder.
(1) Remove ignition cables and measure the resis-
tance of the cables. Resistance must be within the
range shown in the Cable Resistance Chart in Spec-
ifications. Replace any cable not within tolerance.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
coil pack.
(3) Measure the primary resistance of each coil. At
the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin
and the pin corresponding to the cylinders in ques-
tion (Fig. 17). Resistance on the primary side of each
coil should be 0.45 - 0.65 ohm at (70É to 80É F).
Replace the coil if resistance is not within tolerance.
(4) Remove ignition cables from the secondary tow-
ers of the coil. Measure the secondary resistance of
the coil between the towers of each individual coil
(Fig. 18). Secondary resistance should be 7,000 to
15,800 ohms. Replace the coil if resistance is not
within tolerance.
CHECK COIL TESTÐ3.3/3.8L
Coil 1 fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil 2 fires cyl-
inders 2 and 5, and coil 3 fires cylinders 3 and
6. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of
the corresponding cylinder.
(1) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
coil pack (Fig. 19).
(2) Measure the primary resistance of each coil. At
the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pinand the pin corresponding to the cylinders in ques-
tion (Fig. 20). Resistance on the primary side of each
coil should be 0.45 - 0.65 ohm at 21É to 27ÉC (70É to
80ÉF). A coil that has not been allowed to cool off,
would result in inaccurate measurement results.
Replace the coil if resistance is not within tolerance.
Fig. 17 Terminal Identification
Fig. 18 Checking Ignition Coil Secondary
Resistance
Fig. 19 Ignition Coil Electrical Connector
Fig. 20 Ignition Coil Terminal Identification
NSIGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 9
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

(3) Remove ignition cables from the secondary tow-
ers of the coil. Measure the secondary resistance of
the coil between the towers of each individual coil
(Fig. 21). Secondary resistance should be 7,000 to
15,800 ohms. Replace the coil if resistance is not
within tolerance.
FAILURE TO START TEST
This no-start test checks the camshaft position sen-
sor and crankshaft position sensor.
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies 8
volts to the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft
position sensor through one circuit. If the 8 volt sup-
ply circuit shorts to ground, neither sensor will pro-
duce a signal (output voltage to the PCM).
When the ignition key is turned and left in the On
position, the PCM automatically energizes the Auto
Shutdown (ASD) relay. However, the controller de-en-
ergizes the relay within one second because it has
not received a camshaft position sensor signal indi-
cating engine rotation.
During cranking, the ASD relay will not energize
until the PCM receives a camshaft position sensor
signal. Secondly, the ASD relay remains energized
only if the controller senses a crankshaft position
sensor signal immediately after detecting the cam-
shaft position sensor signal.
(1) Check battery voltage. Voltage should be
approximately 12.66 volts or higher to perform fail-
ure to start test.
(2) Disconnect the harness connector from the coil
pack.
(3) Connect a test light to the B+ (battery voltage)
terminal of the coil electrical connector and ground
as shown in (Fig. 22). The B+ wire for the DIS coil is
dark green with an orange tracer.Do not spread
the terminal with the test light probe.(4) Turn the ignition key to theON position.The
test light should flash On and then Off.Do not turn
the Key to off position, leave it in the On posi-
tion.
(a) If the test light flashes momentarily, the
PCM grounded the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay.
Proceed to step 5.
(b) If the test light did not flash, the ASD relay
did not energize. The cause is either the relay or
one of the relay circuits. Use the DRB scan tool to
test the ASD relay and circuits. Refer to the appro-
priate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedure Manual.
Refer to the wiring diagrams section for circuit
information.
(5) Crank the engine. (If the key was placed in the
off position after step 4, place the key in the On posi-
tion before cranking. Wait for the test light to flash
once, then crank the engine.)
(6) If the test light momentarily flashes during
cranking, the PCM is not receiving a crankshaft posi-
tion sensor signal. Use the DRB scan tool to test the
crankshaft position sensor and sensor circuits. Refer
to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedure
Manual. Refer to the wiring diagrams section for cir-
cuit information.
(7) If the test light did not flash during cranking,
unplug the crankshaft position sensor connector.
Turn the ignition key to the off position. Turn the
key to the On position, wait for the test light to
momentarily flash once, then crank the engine. If the
test light momentarily flashes, the crankshaft posi-
tion sensor is shorted and must be replaced. If the
light did not flash, the cause of the no-start is in
Fig. 21 Checking Ignition Coil Secondary
ResistanceFig. 22 Ignition Coil Engine Harness Connector
8D - 10 IGNITION SYSTEMNS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

ENGINE WITH 5 MAIN BEARINGS
²When checking #1 main bearing shim #2 main
bearing.
²When checking #2 main bearing shim #1 & 3
main bearing.
²When checking #3 main bearing shim #2 & 4
main bearing.
²When checking #4 main bearing shim #3 & 5
main bearing.
²When checking #5 main bearing shim #4 main
bearing.
ENGINE WITH 4 MAIN BEARING
²When checking #1 main bearing shim # 2 main
bearing.
²When checking #2 main bearing shim #1 & #3
main bearing.
²When checking #3 main bearing shim #2 & #4
main bearing.
²When checking #4 main bearing shim #3 main
bearing.
NOTE: REMOVE ALL SHIMS BEFORE REASSEM-
BLING ENGINE
ALTERNATIVE METHOD
The weight of the crankshaft can be supported by a
jack under the counterweight adjacent to the bearing
being checked.
PLASTIGAGE PROCEDURE
(1) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(2) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the cap approximately
6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from the oil
holes (Fig. 3). (In addition, suspected areas can be
checked by placing the Plastigage in the suspected
area). Torque the bearing cap bolts of the bearing
being checked to the proper specifications.
(3) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage (Fig. 4) with the
metric scale provided on the package. Locate the
band closest to the same width. This band shows theamount of clearance in thousandths of a millimeter.
Differences in readings between the ends indicate the
amount of taper present. Record all readings taken.
Refer to Engine Specifications.Plastigage gener-
ally is accompanied by two scales. One scale is
in inches, the other is a metric scale.
NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE
Engine connecting rod bearing clearances can be
determined by use of Plastigage or equivalent. The
following is the recommended procedure for the use
of Plastigage:
(1) Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod
to be checked is at the bottom of its stroke.
(2) Remove oil film from surface to be checked.
Plastigage is soluble in oil.
(3) Place a piece of Plastigage across the entire
width of the bearing shell in the bearing cap approx-
imately 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) off center and away from
the oil hole (Fig. 3). In addition, suspect areas can be
checked by placing plastigage in the suspect area.
(4) Assemble the rod cap with Plastigage in place.
Tighten the rod cap to the specified torque.Do not
rotate the crankshaft while assembling the cap
or the Plastigage may be smeared, giving inac-
curate results.
(5) Remove the bearing cap and compare the
width of the flattened Plastigage (Fig. 4) with the
scale provided on the package. Locate the band clos-
est to the same width. This band indicates the
amount of oil clearance. Differences in readings
between the ends indicate the amount of taper
present. Record all readings taken. Refer to Engine
Specifications.Plastigage generally is accompa-
nied by two scales. One scale is in inches, the
other is a metric scale. If the bearing clearance
exceeds 0.076 mm (0.003 in.) replace bearing.
NOTE: Plastigage is available in a variety of clear-
ance ranges. Use the most appropriate range for
the specifications you are checking.
REPAIR OF DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (including aluminum
head spark plug threads) can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of drilling out worn or
damaged threads, tapping the hole with a special
Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing an insert
into the tapped hole. This brings the hole back to its
original thread size.
Fig. 4 Clearance Measurement
9 - 4 ENGINENS
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)